Shaping is the key to control the upward growth of potted peach trees. Potted peaches have many branches, strong branches, fast thickening of branches and easy shaping. The main method is to make use of the characteristics of peach buds maturing early and branches growing vigorously in the growing season. According to the specific requirements of different tree types, the basic skeleton modeling can be completed by mainly stretching and bending branches, adjusting the direction, angle and shape of main branches, coring for many times, promoting branches, and setting in 1 ~ 2 years.

Potted peach trees have small crowns, good ventilation and light transmission conditions, and are easy to blossom and bear fruit early. Its tree shape can be based on the requirements of potted seedlings, as long as the height and width of the crown are effectively controlled, whether the trunk is straight or curved, it can be curved, the antlers of two main branches, the happiness of three main branches or the stratification of many main branches. For example, when a newly planted peach tree grows to 30 cm, two buds are selected from both sides at 10 cm, and then the upper branches of the buds are drawn horizontally, so that the buds on both sides will germinate quickly and form three open branches. When the new branch grows to 20 cm, pick the core and pull the branch horizontally to promote the secondary branch. If an upright branch grows on a flat branch, it can be cut off from the base to prevent it from growing in vain. The flattened new branches and old branches are pulled out before June 20 to promote the development of secondary branches, and flower buds can be formed that year. In this way, the purpose of flowering and fruiting can be achieved in the second year.

(2) Pruning in winter

According to the characteristics of growth and fruiting of potted peaches, the key point of pruning in winter is to maintain the basic tree shape, and to maintain the appropriate (sufficient) flower amount by combining shrinkage, thinning and pruning. Pruning is larger than ordinary potted plants, often accounting for more than half of the total number of branches.

① contraction

Because of the large growth, too high growth and too long crown diameter extension of potted peaches, the branches should be retracted to meet the appropriate crown diameter and shape standards. In the retraction position, the medium-long fruit branches with rich branches, moderate growth, no secondary branches, many flowers and slightly larger angles are generally removed. In the second year, increase the fruit yield at the periphery and top of the crown, and inhibit the accelerated expansion of the crown.

② Sparse.

Potted peaches have high germination rate, strong branch formation and many branches. Generally, the branches are large and dense, so they must be thinned when pruning in winter. The principle of thinning branches should be based on the principle that many branches are strong and many trees are sparse, and few branches are weak and few trees are sparse or not sparse. The objects of thinning are firstly those branches with diseases and insect pests, upright branches with few or no flower buds disturbing the tree shape, and too dense branches, followed by those twigs and bouquets with overlapping branches and few flower buds.

③ section

By shrinking and thinning branches, most of the remaining branches grow moderately and develop well. According to the length of the fruiting branches, they should be truncated to different degrees. The cutting length of long branches is 8 ~ 12 cm (5 ~ 7 knots), the cutting length of middle branches is 5 ~ 8 cm (3 ~ 5 knots), and the cutting length of short branches is about 5 cm (3 knots). Bouquet-shaped fruit branches are very short, and only the terminal buds are leaf buds, which are sparse when pruning.

For fruit-bearing basin trees with more fruits and weak growth, attention should be paid to pruning the preparatory branches while pruning the fruit-bearing branches to keep the balance between growth and fruit. In general, the ratio of fruiting branches to preparatory branches is 2 ~ 3: 1, and the weak tree potential is 1: 1. Pruning of preparatory branches is to select long fruit branches and thick middle fruit branches as preparatory branches at the lower position among the fruit branches for heavy and short cutting, and select 1 ~ 2 whole-leaf buds under cutting to produce strong fruit branches and rotate fruits. Potted peaches with strong growth potential can leave no backup branches.

For potted young trees with small crown, the extended branches of the main branches should be cut short (slightly longer), and suitable full-leaf buds should be selected under the incision to make the main branches continue to grow in the next year.

(3) Summer pruning

The main purpose of pruning in summer is to control the vigorous growth of branches, reduce nutrient consumption, promote the transformation of branches into excellent fruiting branches and form enough high-quality flower buds. Summer pruning is mainly aimed at potted young trees that have not yet borne fruit and have few fruits.

① removing germination

In early spring, when the branches grow to 3 ~ 5 cm, the branches germinated due to latent buds, the branches with upright back, and the branches with double buds germinated on one node of the branches (one branch is left) should be thinned out in time.

② Picking the heart

Picking is the main method to control the vigorous growth of potted peach branches. Potted peaches grow vigorously and pick their hearts more often; If the growth is weak, the number of coring can be appropriately reduced, generally 2 ~ 4 times a year. Core-picking objects are mainly flourishing branches with upright growth and obvious top advantages. When the new buds grow to more than 25 cm, pay attention to 5 ~ 10 cm to reduce the eruption position of secondary buds. This re-coring method can generally last until flower bud differentiation begins after July. When the vertical branch is about 40 cm long, the middle and lower part of the branch can be selected for coring (cutting) to facilitate the formation of flower buds, and the lower the cutting position, the better. After the middle and late August, all the tender shoots of potted peaches were removed to enrich the branches and improve the quality of flower buds.

Potted young trees can pick the core of the main branch extension branch, make full use of the secondary branch, and accelerate the modeling. In May, when the branches grow to about 40 cm, the secondary branches with suitable direction and vigorous growth are selected in the middle and upper parts of the branches to pick the core to promote their growth. In those days, there was generally no need to pick the heart to prevent the three branches from being enriched.

③ Branch pulling

Pulling branches and increasing branch angles can obviously inhibit the growth potential of branches, which is a good method to control upright branches and promote their flowering. The objects of branch pulling are mostly perennial branches with small angle and vigorous growth and new branches with a large number of secondary branches, which are mostly combined with plastic surgery. The branching time can be from early spring germination to August. In order to promote the formation of flower buds, it is best to do it in July-August.

④ thinning branches

Thinning is a summer pruning method to control the coring of leafy trees. In the process of denucleation, individual uncontrollable flourishing branches can be thinned out. In mid-August, according to the density of potted peach branches, branches with strong erect branches (branches with more than 3 ~ 4 branches) can be properly thinned to improve nutrient distribution and light conditions. It has obvious effect on improving the quality of flower buds and promoting the maturity of branches. However, it should be noted that the thinning amount should not be too large, otherwise it will affect the growth potential of potted peaches.

⑤ Ring cutting and root cutting.

For some potted peaches with strong growth, root pruning can be carried out in early and middle July, and some roots can be cut off or cut off, and the pruning amount can be controlled at about 1/5. The trunk can also be girdled (not girdled), which can obviously inhibit the vigorous growth of branches and promote the formation of flower buds.