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Customs in Huaihua, Hunan Province
Local conditions and customs support a glass of wine: supporting a glass of wine is a lively and moving scene at the Dong family banquet. It embodies the spirit of mutual help and mutual help between the host and the guest. When toasting, whether the host toasts any guest or the guest toasts any relative of the host, there are at least one or two people between the host and the guest, and there are at most ten or eight. In short, there is no limit to the number of people who want to toast themselves. People who toast themselves are called "helping" or "supporting wine". If the situation of supporting wine is formed, the promoters of both the host and the guest can't drink the other's toast first, but drink the other's "supporting wine" first, and then drink the toast. Sponsors of both the host and the guest can't refuse to "help the wine", which is disrespectful to the wine helper. For people who can't drink well, if ten or eight people come to hold wine, even if each glass licks a little, it is a kind of respect for the people who hold wine, otherwise they will be drunk.

Turn dragon wine: Turn dragon wine is also called changing dragon head. This is another lively scene at the Dong family banquet. Longjing wine is put forward by the representative of the host or guest, and the proposer is called "dragon head". The "dragon head" suggested that when drinking the dragon wine, everyone at the table should stand up and take the glass. First, the "faucet" should take the lead, and then drink from left to right or from right to left. When passing the ball to the right, the person to the left of the "dragon head" is the "dragon tail", and when passing the ball to the left, the person to the right of the "dragon head" is the "dragon tail". After the "faucet" is dry, drink one by one in turn. If one of them doesn't do it, he will be punished. Because you can turn left and right when drinking dragon wine, the "dragon head" can become a "dragon tail", and the "dragon tail" can become a "dragon head", and anyone at the table can be a "dragon head" or a "dragon tail". So back and forth, endless changes.

Reunion wine: Dong's reunion wine is very distinctive. It doesn't drink reunion wine as usual. It was proposed by the host, and there were frequent toasts on the table, and everyone drank it off. Instead, it was proposed by the host. At the banquet, the host took the glass and passed it to the latter's mouth from the right. B drank A, C drank B, D drank C ... and so on. At this time, the host wanted to shout "Come on, everyone." The table was full of shouts, "drink! Hey! " In this way, the whole table was dry and gulped down. The party is over.

Closed-door wine: Closed-door wine is a kind of banquet with the highest standard for Dong villages or families to receive VIPs collectively. Generally, a grand celebration is held in the village or family, and only when the guests from the superior and the surrounding areas are invited to participate, can the celebration be carried out. The closed banquet wine held in the village is generally arranged in the Drum Tower of Tuanzhai, and the family banquet is generally held in the spacious farmhouse corridor. The decoration of the banquet is called "long table". Put ten square tables together in a long queue, and some of them are decorated with wide boards one by one. The wine, rice and vegetables for the private banquet come from villages and families. The best rice wine or bitter wine, the best glutinous rice or rice cake, the best cured meat, pickled fish, pickled cabbage, or stir-fried dishes are all picked out with bamboo baskets or baskets, all of which are put together, which can be said to be a hundred wines and a hundred dishes. The scale of wine used in closed banquets depends on the number of guests, and generally requires one guest to one host. The host will also arrange for a group of girls to stand by and be responsible for pouring wine, toasting and singing wine songs for the guests. There are one or two hundred people in the big one and dozens of people in the small one.

Before the closing banquet begins, the host will organize a welcoming ceremony outside the village gate. The first is to set off a "salute" to hold a "music festival", and the second is to set up a "bar" at the entrance to the village or in front of the house. Third, present a bowl of camellia oleifera. After this set of procedures was completed, the party officially sat down. The seating arrangement of a closed banquet is generally one guest and one host sitting at intervals, or the guest and host can sit face to face. The host and guests sit down and the party begins. First, the head representative of the main village or family made a toast, and then shouted "Drink all!" " The host and guest echoed "drink, drink!" Raise a glass all over the table and drink it off. Then, the two sides formally dined. Toast each other, talk to each other and make friends.

During the dinner, they toasted each other in accordance with the six procedures of Dong Gujing's wine. Drink until you enjoy yourself; Toast girls are in groups of two or three, holding glasses-toasting guests, singing while toasting, and respecting (persuading) guests at the same time. Dong girl's lyrical and smooth voice makes the guests fly, "wine makes people drunk." After the closing ceremony, the host lined up at the entrance of the Drum Tower to see the guests off with firecrackers, and "screened" the VIPs, that is, seven or eight young men and women were sent to lift the VIPs one by one and throw them into the air several times, or grab their hands and feet, lift them into the air to swing, and then send them on their way. That scene was so charming that I couldn't stay.

Besides, Zhijiang Duck, Xinhuang Beef, Mayang Ponkan/Sugar Orange, Jingzhou Yangmei, Yuanling Dengzhanwo, Kiwifruit, Gillian Orchid, Shatian Pomelo, Fried Dumplings, etc. , are famous Huaihua specialties in Hunan Province and even at home and abroad. Thanks for adoption