Current location - Plastic Surgery and Aesthetics Network - Plastic surgery and beauty - Illustration of Pruning Techniques for Apricot Trees
Illustration of Pruning Techniques for Apricot Trees
The main methods of pruning: ① De-sprouting, that is to say, after sprouting in spring, wipe off too many dense buds or shoots in time to reduce nutrient consumption and make the remaining branches get sufficient nutrition and light. This method is mostly used for young trees. It is best to smear the bud as soon as possible, and the length of the tender tip should not exceed 3 ~ 5 cm. At this time, the branches are not lignified, so they can be erased by hand, and the wounds caused by them are easy to heal; When old trees are regenerated, many useless branchlets are easy to sprout near the sawing mouth and should be erased as soon as possible. (2) Some varieties of young trees are easy to attract some vigorous upright branches, resulting in the crown not opening. For this kind of branch, it can be pulled into a certain angle with a rope after the sap flows out and before germination, so as to slow down the growth, promote the growth of fruit branches and bear fruit early. The angle of branch pulling should not be too large, and 45 ~ 50 degrees is appropriate. If the angle is too large or flat, the upright branches will flourish on the back and still flourish, affecting flowering and fruiting. For this kind of upright flourishing branch, if it is not cut or slowly pulled, some fruit branches can also be formed in the front (upper) part, but the lower part is easy to be bald after fruiting, which reduces the fruiting position and affects the yield and quality. (3) Core picking is the tender part of the new tip. For long branches, regenerated branches, elongated branches and upright intermediate branches growing on the back, they germinate at suitable positions in the crown, and the light conditions are good. When the new shoots are about 40 cm long, the time for coring is better. However, the extended branches of the main and lateral branches at all levels and the branches replacing the extended branches can be coring-free, for example, increasing the angle and increasing the order of branches, but the number of coring can not be too many, so as to avoid the branches being enriched. About 10 days after the new shoot is cored, the lower part can be branched and lignified. However, if the core is removed more than three times, it may cause freezing damage when the branches are not fully grown, or it may weaken the tree because of too many branches.