Yunnan tea, from "scattered picking but not picking" to "ordinary tea used by ordinary people"; From tribute tea to border sales, overseas Chinese sales and export; The origin is changing, the consumers are changing, and the production technology is also changing.
1938, that is, before and after the establishment of China Tea Yunnan Branch, is a demarcation point.
Prior to this, the primary technology of Yunnan tea was mostly sun-drying, and Pu 'er tea was more regional tea.
After that, black tea, baking green, frying green and other processes began to appear, and Yunnan tea was divided up. After the founding of New China, dried raw materials were only sold to the frontier and overseas Chinese, and Pu 'er tea gradually declined. It was not until the 1970s that the technology of piled fermented cooked tea was formed that Pu 'er tea once again came into public view.
Pu 'er tea is available in both the old world and the new world.
In the modern context, the word Pu 'er tea has two meanings: one is a kind of name, which is what we usually call Assam; Secondly, it is a product of Yunnan and a unique geographical indication product in Yunnan.
The current national standard (GB/T 2211-2008) limits the origin, variety, technology and characteristics of Pu 'er tea.
1, and the raw materials are within the protection scope of geographical indications;
2. Yunnan big leaf species;
3, adopting a drying process;
4. Natural post-fermentation or artificial post-fermentation;
5, raw tea is pressed tightly, and cooked tea is scattered or pressed tightly;
6, with the unique quality of aging and fragrance;
Of course, these are just the definitions of modern Pu 'er tea, and traditional Pu 'er tea and modern Pu 'er tea cannot be simply equated. ?
Does sun-dried wool count as Pu 'er tea? Does low-temperature baking and drying process count as Pu 'er tea? Can Xiaoye make Pu 'er tea? Can leftover materials be used as Pu 'er tea?
Pu 'er tea is a proper noun formed under specific historical conditions, which is closely related to the local social development and the history of ethnic changes.
To understand Pu 'er tea, we need to make a systematic analysis from Yunnan's natural, geographical, political, economic and cultural dimensions.
Appendix to definition of relevant Pu 'er tea:
-2008 national standard? (GB/T 2211-2008) Geographical Indication Product Pu 'er Tea
Tea with unique quality characteristics is made of Yunnan large-leaf sun-dried green tea protected by geographical indications by a specific processing technology within the scope of geographical indications. According to its processing technology and quality characteristics, it can be divided into Pu 'er tea (raw tea) and Pu 'er tea (cooked tea).
The protection scope of geographical indication products of Pu 'er tea is: Pu 'er, Xishuangbanna Dai Autonomous Prefecture, Lincang, Kunming, Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture, Baoshan, Dehong Autonomous Prefecture, Wei Chu, Honghe Hani and Yi Autonomous Prefecture, Yuxi City, Wenshan Zhuang and Miao Autonomous Prefecture, etc.1639 townships in each county and city.
——2006 Yunnan local standard DB53/ 103 —— 2006 Pu 'er tea.
It is a unique geographical indication product in Yunnan. It is a kind of tea with unique quality characteristics, which is made from Yunnan large-leaf sun-cured green tea that meets the environmental conditions of Pu 'er tea producing area and is made according to specific processing technology. Pu 'er tea is divided into Pu 'er tea (raw tea) and Pu 'er tea (cooked tea).
-Pu 'er tea in Zhang Jun in 2006.
Pu 'er tea is a famous historical tea unique to Yunnan. It is a product made of sun-dried green tea, a big leaf species originating in Yunnan, through long-term natural fermentation or artificial rapid fermentation. In other words, our current market is commonly known as raw tea and cooked tea, and there are two kinds of loose tea and pressed tea in shape; After the finished product, the natural aging process is continued, which has the unique quality that the older it is, the more fragrant it is.
-Classification of Tea and Definition of Pu 'er Tea by Yang Chongren, Chen Keke and Zhang Yingjun in 2006.
Pu 'er tea is a special kind of tea made from Yunnan characteristic big leaf tea. Based on the review of the history of Pu 'er tea and the understanding of modern tea classification system, we think that "Pu 'er tea" in a broad sense should include three series of Pu 'er raw tea, Pu 'er aged tea and Pu 'er cooked tea. Pu 'er raw tea is sun-dried raw tea produced without fermentation. It can be used as green tea, and can be converted into Pu 'er cooked tea by natural fermentation technology or by artificial fermentation technology. Pu 'er aged tea is naturally fermented from raw Pu 'er tea, and Pu 'er cooked tea is fermented from raw Pu 'er tea. All kinds of Pu 'er tea have the same roots, the same raw materials, a long history and unique cultural connotation, forming a unique tea.
—— Yang Kai's Practical Pu 'er Tea in 2006
Pu 'er tea is the general name of a series of tea products that have matured in the long river of time after moderate deactivation and low temperature drying (including sun drying).
-Classic Pu 'er-Shi Kunmu's Definition of Nouns in 2006.
Sun-cured green tea (technology) produced in Yunnan and its derivative products, including bulk tea, compact tea (shape), raw tea and heap fermented cooked tea (artificial rapid aging), are mainly characterized by post-fermented tea, which can be preserved for a long time. In this way, Pu 'er tea is more than just a kind of tea-Camellia (master. Chang is also a unique tea product in Yunnan.
—— "Pu 'er Tea Tasting Meeting" of Yunnan Science and Technology Press, the leading group of China Tea City Construction in 2005.
Pu 'er tea is the general name of loose tea and pressed tea which meet the local standards of Pu 'er tea in Yunnan Province by post-fermentation (including natural post-fermentation and artificial post-fermentation).
—— Yunnan Pu 'er Tea Week 2005 (Yunnan Science and Technology Press)
The original explanation of Pu 'er tea is the local tea produced in Pu 'er. The second definition refers to sun-cured green tea and pressed tea (usually called raw tea) made from big leaf tea grown in western and southwestern Yunnan, which may become natural fermented tea after long-term storage. The third definition refers to loose tea and pressed tea (usually called cooked tea) formed by post-fermentation of sun-cured green tea.
—— Panorama of Pu 'er Tea Culture by Huang Guishu in 2005 (Yunnan Nationalities Publishing House)
Pu 'er tea is a kind of tea product with red soup and old taste, which is made from sun-dried green tea in Daye, Yunnan Province by fermentation. This concept is not only suitable for modern Pu 'er tea with rapid batch fermentation, but also suitable for traditional Pu 'er tea formed by natural slow fermentation.
-Pu 'er tea, agricultural industry standard of the People's Republic of China (NY/T779-2004) in 2004.
1, Pu 'er loose tea: Pu 'er bud tea and grade tea with various names and grades are made from Yunnan big leaf bud leaves by processes such as enzyme fixation, rolling and sun drying.
? 2. Pu 'er pressed tea production: according to market demand, semi-finished products of Pu 'er loose tea with different grades such as Tuocha, pressed tea, cake tea, brick tea, round tea and tea fruit are formed by mechanical pressing.
? 3. Pu 'er tea bags: tea bags of various specifications are automatically measured, bagged and packaged by using pieces, pieces and powder (more than 40 holes) in Pu 'er loose tea.
? 4. Curing: Curing refers to the processing procedure that Yunnan big-leaf sun-dried tea and its pressed tea are stored for a long time (more than ten years) under good storage conditions, or Yunnan big-leaf sun-dried tea is artificially fermented, so that a series of biochemical reactions such as oxidation, aggregation and hydrolysis occur to tea polyphenols, and finally Pu 'er tea with specific quality is formed.
-Deng Shihai (Taiwan Province Province) Pu 'er Tea 2004 (Yunnan Science and Technology Press)
Pu 'er tea is made of coarse tea (green tea) dried and aged.
——2003 Yunnan local standard (DB53/T 103~2003) Pu 'er tea.
Pu 'er tea is a kind of loose tea and pressed tea, which is made from the sun-dried green tea with big leaves in a certain area of Yunnan Province. Brown-red appearance, bright soup inside, unique and ancient aroma, mellow and sweet taste, brown-red leaves.
-China Tea Dictionary in 2000.
Pu 'er tea in history generally refers to the sun-dried coarse tea made of Yunnan big leaf tea and pressed tea, which was produced in the original Simao area (now Simao area and Xishuangbanna Prefecture) and concentrated in the location of Pu 'er House (now Pu 'er County).
-1993 Journal of Yunnan Tea Import and Export Corporation
Pu 'er tea, a famous tea in history, generally refers to sun-cured green tea made from fresh leaves of Yunnan big-leaf tea tree. Originated in southern Yunnan and distributed in Pu 'er Prefecture (now Pu 'er County), hence the name.
-1992 "China tea classics"
Pu 'er tea is made of sun-cured green tea (Dianqing), which is an excellent variety of Yunnan big leaf species. Its fresh leaves are picked, dried, kneaded and fermented with water.
-1988 "China agricultural encyclopedia" tea volume.
Is prepared from fresh leaves of Yunnan big leaf species. Historically, tea produced in southern and southwestern Yunnan was distributed in Pu 'er County, so it was named after Pu 'er.