1, plastic tunnel. One is multi-vine shaping, which is suitable for areas buried in the ground in winter to prevent cold. Topping is carried out when the seedlings grow to 5-6 leaves in the same year of planting, and 3-4 thick main vines are selected. The second is dry shaping, that is, only one new shoot is left after germination in that year, and the trunk that grows upright is cultivated. 2. Prune in winter. Grapes are pruned in winter, usually about one month after defoliation in autumn to about 20 days before germination in the next year. Pruning too early or too late will cause serious damage to the tree, loss of nutrition and weak growth of the tree. According to the strength of trees and the length of fruiting branches, the principles of grape pruning in winter are: strong vines stay long and weak vines stay short; Leave the upper part long and the lower part short. Generally, it can be divided into three methods: (1) Long vine pruning Long vine pruning generally adopts the method of double vine regeneration. Select a vine under the fruiting vine as the regenerated mother branch, and the regenerated mother branch will keep 2-3 healthy buds, and the fruiting mother vine will keep 6- 12 buds, so that the new branches will blossom and bear fruit in the same year, and update the two new branches extracted from the mother vine (if three new branches are extracted, one branch should be removed). If there is inflorescence on it, it should be removed to reduce nutrient consumption and promote branch tissue enrichment. When pruning in the winter of the following year, all the fruiting vines in that year were cut off, and the new branches on the upper part of the updated mother vines still kept 6- 12 buds as the fruiting mother vines, while the new branches on the lower part kept 2-3 buds as the updated mother vines. When selecting and retaining the updated mother vines, we should pay attention to selecting the parts as close as possible to the trunk to control the rising speed of the resulting parts year by year. (2) Pruning short vines, planting vines about one meter first, and pulling out a plurality of main bearing vines from the main vines. When pruning in winter, each female bearing vine should have 2-3 buds. After bolting in spring, choose the upper branch as the bearing branch and the lower branch as the regeneration branch to prevent it from bearing fruit. When pruning in winter, all the fruiting branches are cut off, and 2-3 buds are left in the updated branches. (3) The method of pruning and renewing the middle vine is basically the same as that of pruning the short vine, but the difference is that there are more buds on the mother branch, usually 4-5 buds. In addition, when pruning, we should cut off dense branches, tender branches, branches of diseases and insect pests and dry dead branches. 3. Plant management during growth. (1) Wipe the bud. In order to make the most economical and effective use of nutrients and make the new buds even and dense, too many unnecessary buds should be erased as soon as possible. (2) prick the tip and remove the tendrils. When the new tip grows to 25~30 cm, it should be tied in time, and the word tying method can prevent the new tip from being injured by friction. When binding shoots, remove tendrils at the same time to support nutrient consumption. (3) Picking new buds and treating secondary buds. Taking the heart from the new bud can inhibit the overgrowth of branches and vines. A large number of secondary buds should be inhibited after enucleation. The secondary branches below the ear can be removed from the base, while the secondary branches above the ear leave two leaves to core, and the secondary branches at the top of the main branches leave several leaves to core the fruit branches, which can limit the vegetative growth, promote the nutrient accumulation of inflorescences and improve the fruit setting rate. Generally, it is advisable to leave 5~9 leaves on the top ear one week before flowering. (4) Pruning of inflorescence and ear. There are often 1~3 inflorescences on a fruiting branch, so it is advisable to leave a well-developed inflorescence. Then the inflorescence is pruned properly. For varieties with low fruit-setting rate and scattered panicles, such as Rose Fragrant and Kyoho, the secondary panicle should be cut off 2~3 days before flowering, and some panicle tips should be pinched off to improve the fruit-setting rate. White Malaga, Italy and other varieties with high fruit setting rate often support fruit, which leads to inconsistent fruit cracking and fruit maturity. These varieties should be thinned with small scissors at 10~20 days after flowering to increase fruit size and improve quality. Japanese Kyoho grapes are sparse in panicle, generally about 35 grains are left per panicle, and the single fruit weight can reach 15 ~ 18g.

Second, fertilizer and water management:

Grape is a perennial plant, which grows and bears fruit every year and needs to absorb a lot of nutrients from the soil. In order to maintain the robust growth of trees and continuously improve the yield and quality of products, we must pay attention to rational fertilization. According to the determination of some high-yield vineyards in China, for every 100 kg of berries, 0.25-0.75 kg of nitrogen, 0.2-0.75 kg of phosphorus and 0. 13-0.63 kg of potassium should be applied. All localities can adjust measures to local conditions and apply fertilizers appropriately through production practice and scientific experiments. According to the fertilization period, it can be divided into base fertilizer and topdressing. Base fertilizer should be applied from the end of September to the beginning of 10 when the new shoots are fully mature. The base fertilizer is mixed with after-effect fertilizers such as decomposed human excrement or manure, poultry excrement, green manure and phosphate fertilizer (calcium superphosphate). Topdressing generally uses quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer, such as decomposed human excrement and urine, cake fertilizer and so on. Ten days before flowering, apply potash fertilizer, such as plant ash and chicken manure. , mainly used in early July. The fertilization method can dig an annular ditch about 1 m away from the plant. The depth of base fertilizer is about 40 cm, and topdressing should be shallow to avoid excessive root damage. Water is needed after fertilization. Topdressing outside the root of grape has obvious effect on improving yield and quality, and the method is simple. Spraying 1-3% calcium superphosphate solution before flowering, young fruit stage and berry maturity can increase yield and improve quality; Spraying 0.05-0. 1% boric acid solution before flowering can improve the fruit setting rate; Spraying 0.02% potassium salt solution or 3% plant ash extract (soaked the day before spraying) during fruit setting and fruit growth can improve the sugar content and yield of berries. Spraying fertilizer outside the roots, in case of drought, should reduce the concentration appropriately to avoid burning leaves; In the unused areas, it is advisable to try it out in small batches first, and then gradually promote it after gaining experience. Grape is relatively drought-tolerant, but if it can be irrigated in time, the yield can be significantly improved. The soil must be kept moist before the sap flows to blossom. At this time, if topdressing irrigation can be used, good fertilizer and water conditions can be created for flowering and fruit setting. However, too much water during flowering will cause a large number of flowers and fruits to fall. Unless the soil is too dry, it is not suitable for watering during flowering. From fruit setting to fruit coloring, it is in a high temperature state, and the transpiration on leaves is large, which requires a lot of water. Water can be poured every 7- 10 days according to the weather. After the coloring of the fruit begins to soften, the sugar content of the fruit decreases, which makes it difficult to store and easy to crack unless there are too many dry years. During dormancy, too dry soil is not conducive to overwintering, and too wet soil is easy to cause mildew in bud eyes. Generally, irrigation is combined with autumn fertilization once after harvest to facilitate water permeability. In northern producing areas, irrigation is needed once before cold protection, which is an important measure for grape cold protection.