1. Planting environment of potted grapes
If it is a courtyard, grapes and other fruit trees, flowers and trees are planted, the overall arrangement of planting or breeding can be comprehensively considered according to its size, lighting conditions and environmental conditions, so as to make full use of the ground and space. If there is a spacious roof platform, in addition to greening (beautification) and eating, its sunshade function accounts for a large proportion.
2. Planting season of potted grapes
Suitable for planting in spring when the temperature is between 15-25℃, such as early March and April; Stratification can begin in early April.
3. Potted grape planting preparation
Choose excellent varieties: There are many varieties of grapes, such as Kyoho and Red Fuji, which mature early and have strong adaptability. You can choose high-quality varieties according to the local weather and the use of fruits.
Selection of soil layer: Sandy loam with deep soil layer and loose soil (good air permeability and rapid ground temperature rise) has the best soil quality.
Land preparation: land preparation in autumn and winter in the first year. Before soil preparation, apply about 1.500 kg of decomposed fertilizer per mu, then dig about 30 cm of soil, and tap the soil into a seedbed with a width of 80 cm and a height of 25 cm.
4. Container for potted grape cultivation
Available containers are clay pots, clay pots, purple sand pots, wooden pots, plastic flower pots, etc. , can be selected according to conditions. Potted grapes can be planted in containers with a diameter of about 20-25cm in the first year, and in containers with a diameter of 30-40cm after 2-3 years. It can be determined according to the production capacity and site space. Loose, fertile loam rich in organic matter and calcium is needed. Can also be based on local conditions, choose a wide source, low cost, no pests and diseases, pollution-free culture materials.
5. Pot preparation and disinfection of potted grapes
The commonly used formulas are: ① 4 parts humus soil, 3 parts garden soil, 3 parts coarse sand and 0.5 part bone meal; ② 7 parts of pastoral soil, 2 parts of coarse sand (or slag), 0 part of expanded chicken manure/kloc-0, and 0.5 part of bone meal. After mixing the pot soil, spray it evenly with 0. 1% formalin solution (500ml per cubic pot soil). Then sealed with plastic film, fumigated for one day and night, peeled off the film, aired for 3-4 days, and then potted for later use.
6. Seeding steps of potted grapes
If it is planted with grape seeds, buy the good grapes you like, eat them, take root in the soil, and put them in sunny places to germinate; In the second spring, last year's branches can take out many new buds, leaving a few strongest ones; In May, there was plenty of rain, the grapes grew fast and the roots grew gradually. Transplant in rainy days. In May of the third year, yellow-green buds can appear, which will blossom and bear fruit.
If cuttage planting is adopted, it is best to soak the flowerpot in 1% bleaching powder water for 5 minutes, take it out to dry and put it in sterilized culture soil. Seedlings for potted grapes can be directly cut with cuttings in flowerpots and cultivated into seedlings. When cutting, it is best to insert 2 cuttings in each pot for easy selection and retention, and always keep the pot soil moist. Grape plants of 1-3 years old can also be transplanted with soil before germination. When transplanting, plant branches and vines should be pruned again. Generally, strong branches and vines of 1-3 are selected. In the year of transplanting, the key point is to restore the tree, cultivate the tree shape, lay a good foundation, and not bear fruit for the time being.
7. Grape management and planting skills
Before planting, apply decomposed base fertilizer, cover the soil and compact it, then pour enough root-fixing water, cover the soil to the depth outside the long roots, and there are 3 ~ 4 buds on the ground.
8. Fertilization of potted grapes
(basal fertilizer can be supplemented in the middle and late March in the south and in the middle and late April in the north) Apply 50 kg-100 kg of high-quality farmyard manure, 0.3 kg of urea and 0.8 kg of calcium superphosphate. The applied base fertilizer should be mixed with soil and then covered with soil. Grapes need a lot of fertilizer, and base fertilizer should be applied before defoliation or germination in winter; Topdressing before flowering for the first time; Topdressing to accelerate germination: topdressing: when the bud eyes begin to expand and the temperature is stable at 10℃, according to the plant size, a shallow ditch with a depth of 30 cm-40 cm and a width of 30 cm is opened near the root end, and the mixed soil of fertilizer is buried in the ditch, and then covered with water. In the early stage of young fruit growth, nitrogen fertilizer was mainly used, and calcium superphosphate and plant ash were applied appropriately; When the fruit begins to color, phosphorus and potassium fertilizer are the main components. After reasonable watering and basic fertilizer application, water 1 time is poured to make the fertilizer penetrate into the lower layer, which is beneficial to the absorption of grape roots.
9. Fertilizer and water control of potted grapes
Generally, it is not appropriate to water the fruit before and after flowering 1 week. After the fruit is set, it can be watered with big water and applied with large fertilizer to promote the growth of the fruit. The rainy season will cause the loss of fertility. According to the loss of soil fertility and the growth of grapes, increase the amount of fertilization, use less meals, eat more and use less.
10. Looseness of potted grapes
After heavy rain, the surface of the vineyard will harden, resulting in hypoxia of the grape root system, decreased resistance and easy to get sick. Deep ploughing should be done once before the rainy season. In rainy season, we should pay close attention to intertillage between rainy days to increase soil permeability.
1 1. Wash the secondary and fixed buds of potted grapes.
Grapes are the easiest to grow in the rainy season, and the incidence of secondary branches is very high. Pick your heart in time and wipe off the vise tip. For plants with too many new branches, part of them should be thinned to facilitate ventilation and light transmission. As soon as possible, erase the overgrown and underdeveloped branches and leave strong branches, so as to grow big grapes. Picking should be carried out when 4-8 leaves grow above the inflorescence. After coring, leave 1 leaf for coring, and leave 3-4 leaves for repeated coring except the top secondary branch.
12. flower thinning and fruit thinning of potted grapes
The heart of picking new grapes is skillful: the new grapes must be picked. By removing the core, a large number of nutrients needed for the growth of new shoots can be preserved, which can promote the thickening of leaves and the fullness of flower buds. This is very important to improve the fruit setting rate, yield and quality of grapes. Here is a brief introduction to the practice. Picking time. For the new branches that bear fruit, they are usually picked 3-5 days before full flowering, and at the latest at the early flowering stage. Varieties with serious flower and fruit drop, such as Kyoho and Purple Rose, can collect seeds 8- 10 days before flowering. After the first coring, if the leaves can't reach the required number of new shoots, secondary branches will grow.
13. Removing tendrils and thinning ears of potted grapes
Tendrils not only consume nutrition, but also bring many diseases: annual seedlings should be tied in time after removing tendrils to make the plants grow upright. Insert a thumb-thick bamboo pole on the ground 15 cm away from the root of the seedling and tie the new tip to it. When binding, the new tips should be evenly distributed, and the binding rope should be tied into a loose slipknot on the new tips, leaving a thickened space for the new tips, and the other end should be tied to the diagram. When the new shoots of biennial and perennial seedlings grow to about 60 cm, the new shoots are arched. That is, the new shoots are leveled, so that the ears are at the highest position of the new shoots, and the new shoots are tied to the frame surface in order and at a certain distance. This is conducive to ventilation and light transmission, and prevents fruit branches from being blown off by strong winds. After the inflorescence appears, the ear should be thinned as soon as possible according to the load of the vine. Prolonged vines maintain 1 ~ 2 ears, all bearing branches maintain single ears, and weak branches do not maintain fruit ears. The second and third ears that grow again should be thinned out in time.
14. Soil replacement of potted grapes
After the plants grow in the pot for 1-2 years, the original container space can no longer meet the requirements of root growth and development, and the nutrients in the pot soil gradually decrease. Therefore, the container needs to be changed from small to large or the basin soil needs to be replaced. This work is generally carried out at the end of the dormancy period and before the growth begins. When changing pots or soil, some dead roots should be cut off and watered immediately after changing, so as to facilitate the plant to resume growth.
15. Plastic surgery of potted grapes
Single pole modeling: suitable for small and medium-sized potted plants. In the year of planting, erect a bamboo pole or No.8 iron wire in the center of the pot, and the height is about1m. After the new buds germinate, select strong new buds as main vines, pull them onto bamboo poles, and pick the core when they grow to 80-90cm. After that, leave 1-2 leaves to grow except the top secondary buds. In winter, mature branches and vines can be cut off by 50cm. After germination in the second year, leave 3-5 strong new buds on the main vine, and the remaining buds should be erased in time. When pruning in winter, 2-3 buds are reserved for each new shoot as the bearing mother branch for pruning. After germination in the third year, each bearing mother branch leaves 1-2 new shoots, and then it is chopped every year.
Two-fan shape: in the winter of the planting year, a new shoot cutting of more than 60cm is left as the trunk, and in the following year, a new shoot is left for oblique tying every 10- 15cm. In the winter, the cutting is shortened to the fruiting mother branch with 1-3 buds, and in the third year, 1-2 fruiting branches and new shoots are left on each fruiting mother branch.
16. Hazard prevention of potted grapes
Prevention of bird damage (when grapes are about to mature, birds will pick the ripe grapes and peck them): It is very effective to bag grapes with newspapers, which not only reduces sunburn, prevents bacterial infection and bird damage, but also facilitates bag making. Each newspaper can be made into four paper bags, with a value less than 1. The bag is 27 cm long and 20 cm wide, with 6-8 cm thin iron wire for standby. Roll up the side of the bag with a sewing machine, and nail the lower mouth to the middle with a stapler, leaving 6 cm air holes on both sides. If it is used in an orchard with high temperature and humidity in summer, it can enhance the moisture discharge performance without sealing. When soybeans are small, they are packed in bags. Before bagging, the ears should be trimmed, the grains should be thinned, and fungicides, pesticides and available calcium should be sprayed. Bagging time should be from morning dew to evening, and attention should be paid to avoiding the highest temperature period and direct sunlight when bagging at noon. The time of picking bags depends on the variety and time to market. The varieties with early maturity and easy discoloration should be bagged 7- 10 days before picking. Late-maturing varieties should be bagged 10- 15 days before harvest. After picking the bag, you should pick the leaves and turn the fruit.
Disease control: Before the grape buds germinate, you can spray 50- 100 times of Solibar or 3 Baume -5 Baume stone sulfur mixture (preferably 0.3% washing powder). For orchards with serious diseases such as fruit rot last year, lime should be sprinkled before the disease occurs; Or spray 50% carbendazim 500-600 times under the frame to control the primary infection source from soil overwintering.
Take precautions and spray drugs in time: the drugs with residual efficacy 17-2 1 day shall be sprayed every 15 days/time. If it rains halfway, shorten the next spraying days appropriately. If there is heavy rain after spraying, wait until it clears. If two adjacent drugs are alkaline or acidic respectively, the interval should be strictly controlled to prevent acid-base neutralization of the two drugs.
Timely treatment at the beginning of illness: continuous rain, high temperature and high humidity are the most prone to illness, daily observation, and symptomatic spraying at the beginning of illness. Downy mildew can be prevented by using 70% Cobo 600 times solution, 80% ethyl phosphate 300 times solution or L: 0.7: 1.80 times bordeaux solution;
Bordeaux mixture as the main ingredient, supplemented by other drugs: this method has a very good disease prevention effect. Spray 1 time 1:0.5:240 times before flowering, 1 time 1:0.7:220 times after flowering, and 1 time 1:0.7:200 times during grape expansion. If white rot and anthracnose occur in the middle, it is necessary to spray the medicine. Most of these drugs are acidic, and the interval between them and Bordeaux mixture should be strictly controlled.
Clear the garden in time to curb the spread of the disease source: if a disease occurs, it is most likely to spread with high temperature and humidity. Clean the garden at any time. Remove diseased leaves, branches and fruits from the garden, bury them deeply or burn them. Clear weeds in the garden in time. When cutting off diseased branches and fruits, always clean scissors and disinfect them to prevent cross-infection.
17. Wintering and Freezing of Potted Grapes
Overwintering management is mainly to prevent freezing injury and drainage of potted grapes. According to local conditions, the following protection measures can be selected: after pruning potted grapes in winter, remove the pot holder, pour enough water, dig ditches or pits for burial, and the burial depth can be 30-50cm from the ground, or it can be placed in corridors or balconies to cover the winter. No matter where you put it, you should pay attention to check the soil and keep it moist. The appropriate temperature is 0-5℃.
18. Grafting and seedling raising of potted grapes
Cutting method: In the spring when the temperature is between 15-25℃, select robust branches (full growth and full bud eyes), the thicker the branches, the higher the survival rate. Every 3-4 buds are a cutting, and a branch of about 3 cm should be left above the top bud (if it is short, it is easy to dehydrate the buds, and the lower end should be cut at the lowest bud of about 1 cm, and each cutting should have 3 buds and more than/kloc-0 leaves; The row spacing of cuttings is 20×25 cm, and the sand thickness is 25 ~ 30 cm. The cuttings are obliquely inserted into the sand bed until a bud and leaf are exposed. In the case of semi-cloudy in the early stage, full sunshine will be gradually seen after 3-4 weeks; The temperature is controlled between 20-25℃ and the humidity is about 80%, and it can be rooted and transplanted in about 30-40 days. Loose, breathable and non-fertilizing cutting substrates should be adopted, and river sand, vermiculite, perlite and peat are generally the main cutting substrates.
Precautions for cutting:
First, cut the bud upward to prevent reverse insertion; Second, 2/3 of the cuttings are buried in the soil, and the terminal buds are about 3 cm from the ground and inclined to the north; The third is to prevent cuttings from being inserted into manure.
Hierarchical propagation:
It is carried out from June to August, when the grape branches grow to about 1 m, the branches are picked, and when the lateral buds grow to 15-20 cm, the branches are buried in shallow ditches in the same direction as the branches, and the new buds are exposed by soil cultivation.
Grafting:
Some grape varieties with poor quality or unsuitable for the market need to be replaced. High-branch grafting can be used to replace some large grape varieties with good quality, such as Fujiminori and Ziyuhei. The grafting method is simple and the survival rate is high. The surface can be restored in the first year of grafting, and the fruit can bloom in the second year. The grafting survival rate of new grape varieties can reach more than 80%, which can greatly shorten the growth cycle, that is, the grafted grapes take effect two years earlier than the original seedlings. And mature early, good quality.
Grafting time: mid-March to early April is the most suitable time for grafting and replanting in central China and southern North China (the earlier the grafting time, the better, and the later the survival rate is not high); North-central North China can only be carried out after grapes are unearthed. Note: If the eye of scion bud has germinated, it will seriously affect the survival rate of grafting.
Rootstock (the original variety of plants that need to be replaced is used as rootstock, and the grafting requires that the rootstock is about 0.5 cm thick). Rootstock should be cut off at 5 ~ 10 cm from the ground, and then cut into acute angles at a smooth place 2.5 ~ 5. 1 mm from the ground. The scion should be cut into pieces with buds, and the size is roughly based on the rootstock incision. Then insert it into the V-shaped notch on the rootstock, closely combine it with the cambium, wrap it with plastic strips from the top to the bottom of the bud, and cover the grafted bud with 15 ~ 20.3 cm of wet soil.
Scion treatment: it is best to choose the new shoots of excellent varieties that are immature and just lignified; Take a scion (leave 2 ~ 3 cm at the top and 4 cm at the bottom), pick it (it can improve the survival rate after grafting), cut off the leaves and soak it in cold water immediately (the young vines of grapes are easy to lose water); Cut the lower end of the scion into a wedge shape with a shaving blade, and the section is 3 cm long. Cut less and leave more, and don't expose or expose the pith. The cutting surface should be straight;
Cutting and binding: the cutting surface of scion should be completely consistent with the incision of rootstock, without gaps. After the scion is inserted, cover the incision of the rootstock with plastic film to prevent dirt such as soil from invading the incision to facilitate healing. The method is to use a piece of plastic film about 15 cm square, cut out corresponding holes in the middle according to the thickness, quantity and position of the scion, then insert it from above the scion, wrap the whole rootstock except the scion tightly, and then tie the grafting place tightly with a binding rope.
Pile up soil and cover: after each plant is grafted, you can pile up a small pile of fine soil and bury all the scions in the fine soil pile. Covering with soil can not only protect against wind, dryness and cold, but also promote the healing of grafting joints, which is the guarantee for the survival of grape grafting in spring.
Strengthen post-grafting management: generally, it can heal and germinate in about two weeks after grafting, and gently dig the ground in time after germination to facilitate the germination and greening of new buds. However, the excavation should be carried out in stages, and the excavation can not be completed until it is completely healed. Straighten the pole to promote the strong branches: erect a bamboo pole next to the original plant and tie new buds to promote its strong growth. When the length of the branches reaches the height of the wire on the frame surface, the vines should be tied in time. Removing sprouting tillers: After grafting, the sprouting tillers at the base of the original variety should be removed at any time to facilitate the growth of the scion. However, if the grafting is not alive, it is necessary to keep the sprouts properly in case of green branch grafting again in summer. Cut off the binding in time: after grafting survives, cut off the binding in time before the rapid growth period of branches; Strengthen water and fertilizer management: Strengthen water and fertilizer management of grafted plants, prune in summer, prevent and control pests and diseases in time, and promote the formation of COVID-19. Pile soil on the roots and neck to prevent cold before winter: when grafting and replanting, the original plants grow quickly after grafting, and the branches are easy to flourish, even before winter, especially at the grafting interface. Therefore, in addition to strengthening management and coring in time to promote the stout branches, it is also necessary to bury the grafted plants for cold protection as soon as possible, and even in areas that do not need to be buried for cold protection, it is necessary to pile up soil at the root neck in time before winter.