How to prune grapes?

Pruning is divided into winter pruning and summer pruning.

1 Leave 1 fruiting mother branch on the main vine every 30-40 cm in winter, and leave 7-8 fruiting mother branches on both sides of the main vine, each plant is cut short, and each fruiting mother branch has 2-4 buds. Results The cutting thickness of mother branch was above 0.9cm, and the length of extension head was less than1m..

2 Summer pruning Summer pruning includes sprouting, fixing branches, removing cores and removing side branches. (1) Bud wiping: Wipe off buds with bad position and direction, twin buds, medium and weak buds. (2) Fixed branches: according to the planned yield, select and keep branches with good growth and large inflorescences. (3) Picking the core and picking the tip of the attachment: Picking the core is generally carried out before flowering 1 week, and it is best to pick the upper part of the branch above the walnut-sized leaves 2-3 days before flowering. There are 1-2 secondary branches at the top of the new branch, and the rest are all smoothed or 1-2 leaves are left under the inflorescence for repeated coring. For the secondary branch at the top of the new branch, leave 4-5 leaves for repeated coring.

How to prune grapes?

Grape pruning:

1. Grape pruning, also known as dormancy pruning, is mainly to ensure a certain number of bud eyes, regulate growth and fruit, so as to ensure good new shoots every year, so as to increase yield and high yield year after year.

Pruning period: generally, it is carried out after defoliation in autumn and before burying the soil for cold protection. For varieties that are not cold-proof and buried in the soil, such as Xiangshan grape, it can be carried out after defoliation and before the next spring juice outflow period (bleeding period).

2. Generally, each square meter of shelf surface can accommodate about 15-20 new shoots, and on this basis, it can be increased or decreased according to the tree potential.

3. Cutting branches and vines to the required length is mainly determined according to the pruning needs and the quality of mature new shoots. Pruning length is generally: short tip, leaving 1-24 knots; Middle tip, leaving 5-7 knots; Long tip, leaving 8- 12 knots. Generally, new branches with mature and strong growth potential can be appropriately cut; The growth potential is weak, the maturity is not good, and the thin ones can be kept short; Varieties with low bearing strength at the base of branches and vines should be trimmed with medium and long shoots; Where the branches and vines are sparse, you can stay for a long time in order to make full use of the space; Summer pruning can be shortened, and for new shoots that are not checked, it is necessary to leave them for a long time.

4. Update pruning: Prune branches and vines that move up or forward too fast, and replace them with mature new branches at or near their bases. Update pruning is divided into single-branch update and double-branch update. Due to improper regeneration or light pruning of single branch, the germination ability of branches and vines is not strong, and it is difficult to form ideal preparatory branches at the base and master them. It is not introduced here, but only two-branch regeneration, which usually consists of a fruiting mother branch and a preparatory branch on a branch group. Results The mother branch was kept long, and the long and middle branches were pruned. The next branch was used as a preparatory branch to cut 2-3 buds, which was repeated every year. This method is reliable and suitable for varieties with weak branching ability.

When is the best time to prune grapes? How to trim?

It should be done after falling leaves in autumn and before burying the soil for cold protection. For Xiangshan grape and other varieties that are not cold-proof and buried in the soil, it can be carried out after defoliation and before the next spring sap flow period. In order to improve the grape yield and ensure the quality of berries, the reasonable bud quantity must be determined according to the tree potential and frame surface every year. Generally, each square meter of shelf surface can accommodate about 15-20 new shoots, and on this basis, it should be increased or decreased according to the tree condition.

1. Grape is a kind of berry and one of the oldest and most widely distributed fruits in the world. Humans began to cultivate this fruit tree a long time ago. Its berries are mostly round or oval, and the color varies with varieties.

2. It accounts for almost a quarter of the world's fruit production; It has high nutritional value and can be made into grape juice, raisins and wine. Eurasian grapes with large grains, thick skin, less juice, more water, easy separation of skin and flesh, sweet and sour taste, and storage and transportation resistance are also called raisins, which generally grow in strings, including yellow-green, red, black-blue or purple.

3. There is a thin skin outside the pulp and a thin frost outside the skin, and some varieties are seedless. Grapes can be used as raw fruit, wine or raisins.

In addition, it can also be used as decoration. Grape is called "crystal pearl" because of its bright color, delicious taste and high nutritional value.

How to prune grapes in the first year?

1. "1,3, 6, 9~ 15" The significance of this pruning method is to leave 3 fruiting branches, 6 fruiting mother branches and 9 ~ 12 buds on the canopy surface every1meter. The long spreading tip of a dragon usually stays in the middle and long tip, and retracts once a year, so choose a protruding tip from the back. In garden cultivation, the number of buds is generally a little more, but not more than 15 buds, that is, "1, 3,6,9 ~15".

2. "1, 2, 1" pruning method is suitable for longan, milk and other varieties. Horizontal scaffolding, single dragon stem shaping, hole spacing 1~ 1.5 meters, 2~3 plants per hole, one dragon vine every 50~60 cm on the frame surface, and the single branch is updated alternately. The meaning of this method is to leave two short branches (1 ~ 2 nodes) and 1 middle branches on the long vine every1m on the scaffold surface, and trim the long branches spread by the dragon with long branches. There are two dragons per 1m wide shelf, which is equivalent to 14 ~ 20 buds, which is equivalent to 12000 ~ 18000 buds per hectare. In semi-arid areas, the sunshine is abundant, the grape branches are not easy to grow in vain, the pruning in summer is strictly controlled, and the flower buds at the base buds are often well differentiated. Generally, each ear weighs more than 0.5 kg, and the yield per hectare can be guaranteed to be 30,000 ~ 37,500 kg. This pruning method is more suitable for young fruit trees.

Third, the pruning of trees in full fruit period generally refers to 13~40 years old trees. During this period, the fruit yield of trees increased year by year, and the vegetative growth gradually weakened. If it is not managed properly, it is easy to have years. Therefore, the main task of pruning is to adjust the relationship between growth and fruiting, improve lighting conditions, maintain tree potential, and obtain high and stable yield.

4. Pruning of aging trees Trees that are 30 to 40 years old have entered the aging period. The main task of pruning is to renew and rejuvenate, restore tree vigor, extend the fruiting period as much as possible, and maintain a good yield. In the specific operation, the trunk and lateral branches should be retracted and raised appropriately according to the degree of weakness. If the central branch group has declined, it should be sawed off from the base to change the crown into a pleasing shape, but the wound should be protected to prevent decay. For aging trees, we should make full use of long branches to cultivate new fruiting branches, at the same time, renew and rejuvenate the original branches, and properly remove too dense flower buds to ensure the vigorous growth of branches.

5. During the budding period from mid-March to early April, it should be cut before flowering. For trees with few flowers, more branches are cut in winter because the flower buds are not recognized. When the flower buds can be clearly identified, the extra branches without flowers should be properly loosened or retracted, so that the inner room can be fully illuminated. For trees with poor varieties, high grafting can be started from liquid flow.

How to prune the vines?

We found the following information for your reference: technical measures for high-yield grapes in winter Pruning grapes in winter can make the branches in the crown reasonable, prevent the fruiting parts from moving out, and lay the foundation for stable and high-yield grapes.

Winter pruning is generally carried out at the end of June 1 1 to the end of June of the following year 1. Premature pruning will affect the nutrient accumulation of trees, so it should not be postponed until spring to avoid "injury" and weaken the tree potential. First, prune the main branches and vines.

After a year's growth, when the grapes fall leaves, there will be many messy branches. First, we should choose the main side vines according to the spacing of 50-60 boxes of meters, and cut all the dense vines, pests and diseases vines, immature vines, old and weak vines and overlapping vines, but not too close to the main branches, so as to avoid the wound drying and shrinking, which will affect the nutrient transport of the main branches. Then the main side vines should be trimmed according to different varieties, and the branches that are too long should be taken back for pruning to make the main side vines uniform. Second, the pruning of fruiting vines.

The cutting length of annual lianas varies according to the position, growth and thickness of branches. If the high-quality buds are between the third and fifth buds, the middle and short branches should be pruned, that is, 2-7 buds should be left before pruning. If the high-quality bud is above the sixth bud, long-tip pruning is adopted, that is, 8- 12 buds are left before pruning; For vines with weak growth potential and unclear polarity, medium and long branches are the main ones, leaving 4- 12 buds; Branches and vines grow vigorously, and the polarity is not obvious, mainly medium and long branches, leaving 4- 12 buds. In addition, the strong branches with cutting thickness above 1 box meter can be pruned with 8- 12 buds; Strong branches with a thickness of 0.7- 1 cm should be pruned more, leaving 4-7 buds; Branches and vines with a thickness of less than 0.6-2cm can be trimmed with short branches, leaving 2-4 buds or removed.

Third, the residual amount of bearing mother branches. As a result, there are too few mother branches and the yield is low. In this way, if there are too many mother branches, the number of fruit ears will exceed the load capacity of the plant, which will reduce the quality and affect the annual output in the future.

Therefore, when pruning, the number of fruiting mother branches should be reasonably determined according to the load capacity of the plant, so as to ensure that the plant can not only achieve high quality and high yield, but also grow strong fruiting mother branches. As for the surplus of fruiting mother branches, we can calculate it according to the following formula: the surplus of fruiting mother branches per plant = expected yield per plant x( 1+20%)/ average ear weight x average number of ears x average number of fruit branches.

Excerpted from Friends of Getting Rich, 2005/ 10 Author Jin Ping's Summer Pruning Method 1 Wipe Buds and Set Shoots. After the grapes germinate, we should choose buds, leave strong and suitable buds and remove useless buds.

Summer pruning should be carried out when inflorescence and inflorescence growth can be clearly identified. Remove the branches with poor development, few inflorescences and too dense, and the number of branches left depends on the frame, variety, tree potential and planned yield index.

2. New buds are extracted from the heart. In principle, the time and frequency of coring should depend on the variety, tree potential and pruning method.

Picking at flowering stage can stop the growth of new shoots 10 15 d, make nutrients flow to inflorescence, ensure good pollination and improve fruit setting rate. Leaving 4}5 leaves above the inflorescence as stout fruiting branches, leaving 12 20 leaves on the extended branches and 10- 15 leaves on the prepared branches are beneficial to promoting fruit ripening and accelerating lignification of branches and vines.

Picking the core in the later stage can improve the ventilation and light transmission conditions of the shelf surface, promote flower bud differentiation and fruit development, enrich the branches and vines and increase the yield. 3 secondary sharp treatment.

The treatment of the auxiliary tip varies from place to place. However, in most areas, after the secondary buds germinate, all the secondary buds below the inflorescence are pulled out from the base, and 1-2 leaves are left above the inflorescence for coring.

2-3 leaves can be left on the secondary branch near the top of the vine to pick the core, so as to reduce the possibility of winter bud germination. 4 sparse inflorescences and contracted spikes.

This measure has a good effect on regulating plant load, improving fruit setting rate of some varieties, making fruit grains neat and fruit ears compact. It should generally be done two weeks before flowering.

Sparse weak and excessive inflorescences, and leaving few inflorescences and few weak branches and leaves. 5 ring peeling.

Use a knife or girdling scissors in the middle of the next ear, and peel off the cortex around the branch for 3-5mm. 6 remove the old leaves.

The purpose of picking leaves is to improve the lighting conditions near the ear. Some old leaves should be picked to promote fruit coloring. Leaves are usually picked when the fruit is soft.

Except tendrils and new shoots. If the tendrils are wound around the frame surface without treatment, it will bring inconvenience to the correct binding, harvesting, winter cutting and off-shelf work of new shoots, and the tendrils also consume nutrients, so they should be pulled out at any time in combination with summer cutting.

When the new shoots grow to 30-40cm, tie them to the frame, and pay attention to the uniform distribution to prevent them from being blown off by the wind. With the growth of new buds, it needs to be tied 3-4 times.

How to prune grapes when they begin to bear fruit?

Your latitude is similar to mine. I'm in Xing 'an League, Inner Mongolia, and I just learned something. First, I will trim it. Trim at any time in the future.

1 you have to determine how much you want it to bear. If left to grow freely, a tree may produce 20-40 clusters or even more grapes, so the quality cannot be guaranteed. Generally, three years 15 string is enough. If the soil and fertilizer are good, you can leave a few more strings.

2. Do a good job of removing the core, vine, bud and secondary bud. After there are five leaves at the tip of the preface, remove the core, all the tendrils and the sprouting secondary branches on the trunk. In this way, the double buds on the tip are weakened, the strong ones are left, and a tip on the trunk is left to develop for a period of time before removing the core. It depends on the trial. It's best not to make it too long, but shorter and thicker. )

3. Thin the fruit, trim the growing ear into a cone shape, and remove some too dense fruit grains. This depends on the variety. In short, the remaining fruit grains will be a little bigger, and if they are too dense, they will not grow up.

Finally, I want to say that it is better to practice more than to watch more. Ask for advice on growing grapes, or Baidu video search. Too many people can't understand the terminology. It is best to look at two examples.

How to prune vines

1, Budweiser wipe

Most of the buds are smeared before the new buds begin to grow and spread the leaves. The buds that germinate early and are rich in fat are generally flower buds, while the buds that germinate late, thin and sharp are mostly leaf buds or poorly developed flower buds. After the grapes germinate, they leave strong and well-positioned buds, and the thin and dense buds sprouted on the old vines and useless hidden buds are erased. When 2~3 buds germinate on the node 1, keep the main buds and remove the secondary buds.

2, fixed tips

Shooting should be done when the existence and growth of inflorescences can be clearly identified. The number of branches left depends on the framework, variety, tree potential and planned yield index. Remove stunted, small inflorescence vines and vines.

Generally speaking, it is appropriate to leave 10 cm new shoots 1 for single hedge frame,/kloc-0 ~15cm for double hedge frame and 20 new shoots per square meter for shed frame. If the discrimination rate of fruiting vines is low and the plant load is insufficient, then according to the density of the frame surface, besides all fruiting vines, a certain number of developing vines should be left.

Step 3: Choose your heart.

Results The picking of new shoots was generally carried out from early flowering to full flowering, that is, 6-8 leaves were left above the inflorescence to pick the tender shoots at the top. When the main vine grows to 16~20 leaves and the prepared vine grows to 8~ 10 leaves, the core is removed.

4. Give the assistant a hint

With the growth of grape shoots, the summer buds between the axils of each leaf can germinate into secondary branches at any time. After the secondary branches germinate, all the secondary branches below the inflorescence should be pulled out from the base, leaving 1~2 leaves above the inflorescence for coring. 2~3 leaves can be left at the auxiliary tip near the top of the vine to pick the core. It is also necessary to cut off the development branches, hidden bud branches and over-dense weak branches of redundant fruitless ears.

5, in addition to tendrils

Grape tendrils will consume a lot of nutrients, so in combination with summer pruning, the newly elongated tendrils should be removed in time.

Extended data:

Propagation methods Grapes are propagated mainly by cutting, grafting and layering.

1, Cutting: Select annual branches with full buds, cut them in sand in winter, and cut them into 2? 3-bud cuttings are often used for open-field cutting or pot cutting. In June, you can also choose branches that grow well in that year and cut them into 2? Three cuttings, peeling off the lower leaves, leaving only the top leaves, cutting off the leaves at the tip of 1/3 ~ 1/2, inserting them into coarse sand, and sprinkling water frequently to keep the substrate moist.

2. Grafting: mostly used for improving inferior adult trees. Grafting was carried out in early spring when the sap just started to flow. If the sap flow is too strong after cutting the rootstock, the incision is often difficult to heal.

3. layering: although the survival rate can reach 10 cm, the operation is more complicated than the insertion method, so it is often taken only when the female parents of excellent varieties are scarce.

References:

Grape Tree-Baidu Encyclopedia

How to prune grapes

Plastic trimming

In hot areas, small sheds or T-hedges are generally used for single stems and fewer main vines. The frame is higher than the ground, which is convenient for ventilation and light transmission and reduces the damage of diseases and ground radiation to leaves and fruits. Pruning is one of the important measures to ensure the output of the year. Winter occurs after defoliation, with 8- 12 nodes for long branches, 5-7 nodes for middle branches and 3- 1 node for short branches. Summer pruning is to remove the redundant buds in the germination stage, and coat a layer of calluses at the pruning mouth. Before flowering, too many inflorescences should be sparse, the big ones should be kept small, and the strong ones should be kept weak. When the branches and vines grow to a certain extent, they should be tied to the surface of the frame, and the tendrils should be removed in time to reduce nutrient consumption. Results 5 ~ 7 leaves were left before the inflorescence to improve the nutritional status. Grape has a high fruit setting rate, so it can be thinned appropriately to make the fruit size uniform, otherwise abnormal fruit and small fruit will appear.

Multiple result branching measure

(1) Use the auxiliary tip to bear fruit many times a year. The tropical climate is warm, the growth period is long, the buds are early, the secondary buds germinate many times, the inflorescence primordium is easy to form, and the grapes can be induced to bear fruit many times a year. Choose suitable varieties, such as Kyoho, white banana and so on. 15- 20 days before flowering, after 4-6 leaves are left on the fruiting vine for coring, 1-2 secondary branches are promoted to germinate at the top, and the rest are erased to form inflorescence primordium; When the secondary tip is 5-6 leaves long, leave 1-2 leaves for forced coring; Secondary buds appear after coring, and when it grows to 3~4 leaves, leave 1 leaf for coring; The secondary branches are treated three times in the same way, and after many times of coring treatment, the secondary branches can bear fruit many times a year.

(2) Artificial defoliation forces new buds to germinate. After the first fruit picking, in August-September, the leaves are pruned and forcibly picked, or 1.035kg/L stone sulfur mixture is sprayed on the branches and leaves, and 1%-5% sodium pentachlorophenol is added to make the leaves fall off. At this time, the temperature is very high, which can make the new buds sprout, blossom and bear fruit that year and mature in the first half of June. Because twice a year, fertilizer and water management should keep up in time.

5. Spraying Guoxing plant nutrients can further improve the yield and quality of grapes. According to the biological and physiological characteristics of grapes, it is the best economic benefit to use it five times in vineyards with good management level in normal years. The five-time use period is:

The first time: in the growth period of new shoots, supplement nutrition, promote the full development of flower organs, reduce residual flowers, overcome the problem that flowers fail to bear fruit or fall off seriously due to insufficient nutrition and poor development, and lay a good foundation for improving fruit setting rate.

The second time: flowering, which can enhance the pollination and fertilization ability and significantly improve the fruit setting rate. Especially for varieties with slow pollen tube elongation such as Kyoho, the effect is more obvious. However, attention should be paid to thinning out too many fruit grains in time to make the whole ear fruit grains even and tidy.

The third and fourth times: the growing period of berries is the key period for the formation of yield and quality. It can improve the physiological function of leaves, speed up the light and speed, promote the accumulation and transformation of photosynthetic products of fruit grains, and promote the early expansion, early coloring and early maturity of fruit grains, thus achieving the goals of high yield, early maturity and high quality.

The fifth time: berry ripening, used when grapes are to be picked, can delay leaf senescence, maintain its high physiological function, delay defoliation, make branches fully mature and restore tree vigor. This is especially important for high-yield orchards and weak-tree orchards.

Schematic diagram of how to prune grapes.

1. Pruning techniques of grapes in winter: In the case of natural laissez-faire, grape plants are densely covered with branches and vines, which are restricted by polarity phenomenon to develop upwards, and the lower part is bald first, and most nutrients are consumed in vegetative growth, resulting in few fruits and low quality.

Therefore, manual intervention and induction are needed to adjust the bud eye load, unit area and the number and length of fruiting mother branches per plant; Slow down the polar growth of plants, reasonably arrange the growing branches and fruiting branches on the shelf surface to avoid baldness and achieve uniform fruit on the shelf surface; Adjust the relationship between branch growth and fruiting, balance the tree potential, maintain the vigorous growth and fruiting ability of branches, prolong the life and fruiting years of plants, and achieve the goal of high yield. Pruning too early or too late will lose a lot of stored nutrients, which is not conducive to germination in the second year, supplementary differentiation of inflorescences and new shoot growth.

The pruning cycle varies according to geographical location. Generally, pruning in South 12 starts in late February and is completed two months before germination, which can avoid bleeding.

Generally, light pruning should be carried out before winter in the cold areas in the north, and supplementary pruning should be carried out in the second year according to the situation to ensure sufficient bud load. Prune properly according to local climate, soil and cultivation conditions.

Because of the different climatic conditions and soil conditions, even the same variety has different pruning degrees. In arid and barren areas, the pruning length should be reduced to ensure the vigorous growth of new shoots and full ears; However, in areas with sufficient fertilizer and water and deep soil layer, the pruning length can be increased.

The flower buds on the upper part of the stout branches are well differentiated, and at the same time, due to the large cross-sectional diameter of the branches and the large number of conduits, the ability to absorb and transfer nutrients and water is strong, and the germination rate is high, which can be appropriately extended; On the contrary, the weak branches should be appropriately cut short. Results The pruning length of mother branch is generally calculated by the number of nodes or bud eyes.

Generally, 1~3 buds are cut into short branches, 4~8 buds are cut into middle branches, and more than 9 buds are cut into long branches. Pruning with the combination of long, medium and short tips on the same branch is called "mixed pruning".

The determination of fruiting mother branches by pruning in winter mainly depends on the heterogeneity of bud eyes at all levels on annual branches, and the heterogeneity of grape bud eyes is related to its varieties, climatic conditions, tree age and growth potential. Pruning medium and long branches is beneficial to increase the carrying capacity of plants, so that more fruiting branches can be produced in the second year, and excellent fruiting mother branches can be selected from them to improve the carrying capacity.

Moreover, new shoots will not be crowded, and occasional injuries can be made up. Pruning of long and middle shoots has great potential to increase production, especially for young and lush trees.

However, it also has some shortcomings: for example, uneven germination and baldness on the back; Uneven growth, strong before and weak after; The planting of fruit grains on the ear is sparse, the fruit grains are small and the fruit quality is poor. Varieties suitable for pruning medium and long branches are: longan, milk, Kyoho, Rose fragrance, Heihan, Jialiniang, Golden Queen and so on.

Varieties suitable for pruning middle branches and short branches are: Livzon, Guirenxiang, Riesling, Kangtai, Fujiminori, red banana, white banana and so on. The principles of "one look, two thinning, three cutting and four checking" are mainly mastered in the pruning steps of grapes.

"Look" is the premise and investigation of pruning. First, look at the climate, soil, variety, tree shape, tree potential, and then look at the relationship with neighboring plants to initially determine the plant load, determine the pruning scheme and the number of pruning buds. "Thinning" refers to removing pests and diseases, thinning branches, dead branches and over-dense branches, locally renewing weak main lateral vines, thinning useless rhizosphere sprouting branches and thinning out the outline.

"Cutting" refers to processing, that is, according to the habits of varieties and various conditions, including tree age, number of frames, tree shape, growth, different parts and different branches, the cutting length of each branch is determined. "Check" is the end, that is, after the pruning, check whether there are any missing shears. The following matters should be paid attention to when pruning: 1. When pruning or shrinking the main side vine, we should avoid causing "opposite wounds", try to make several wounds distributed on the same side, and should not be too close to each other.

Second, when thinning or shrinking, residual piles should be retained. The length of stump depends on the thickness of vine. Generally, 0.2~0.3cm stump should be left when thinning annual branches. When thinning thick-branched vines, leave 0.5~ 1.0cm residual piles according to the thickness.

It is better to apply disinfectant (3% potassium permanganate solution or 0. 1% mercuric chloride solution) and protective agent (stone sulfur mixture) when the regeneration of old vines causes thick wounds (more than 2 cm in diameter). Third, when the annual branches are cut short, the old internode branches can leave 2~3cm stump on the nodes to prevent their lower buds from sprouting.

Those with shorter internodes can be cut at the joint diaphragm, which has a great influence on isolating the outside world. The remaining stump was cut off in the second spring when the tip was removed, and the healing was the fastest at this time.

2. Grape pruning technology in summer is a supplement to pruning in winter, which is conducive to promoting early harvest of young trees, controlling the growth of new shoots, reducing flower and fruit drop, improving sunshine and ventilation conditions, removing pests and redundant branches, and determining reasonable load. Steps of grape pruning in summer: ① Bud wiping and accelerating. That is, fixed buds sprouting on branches and buds and adventitious buds sprouting on tillers are erased.

1 once every 3 ~ 5 days, divided into 2~3 times, mainly to erase obviously over-dense and useless buds. (2) Remove the tip and fix the tip.

Usually remove the vegetative branches and fruiting branches of inflorescence, as well as too many and too dense fruiting branches. 3 choose the heart.

Remove the growing point at the top of the growing new branch. (4) Processing the second top.

In order to accelerate the formation of young trees, secondary branches can be used to enlarge the crown of main vines or the mother branches can bear fruit early, or even more secondary branches can bear fruit to make up for the shortage of unit yield. ⑤ Cut the tip.

The purpose of cutting off new shoots and long shoots is to change the light conditions of trees to promote the coloring and ripening of berries, improve the sugar content and the ripening of new shoots, and also help to prevent diseases. ⑥ Remove tendrils.

Tendrils are useless organs, which can only cause poor ventilation and light transmission. When it is wrapped around spikes and vines, it will affect the growth of spikes and vines and bring inconvenience to harvesting and pruning.

At the same time, tendrils will also consume nutrients during the growth process, so they should be removed. ⑦ Pick old yellow leaves.

Removing some aged and yellow leaves can improve the ventilation and light transmission of the shelf surface, promote fruit coloring and reduce the harm of pests and diseases. 8 tie the vines.

Binding the new shoots with rattan can make each new shoot occupy the shelf surface evenly and reasonably, which is beneficial to ventilation and light transmission of the shelf surface and can also prevent the new shoots from being blown off by strong wind. Generally, when the new buds grow to 20~30cm, the vines are bound.

Pet-name ruby inflorescence shaping. Remove useless tidbits from the fruiting branches, including weak, deformed and dense inflorescences, and keep good inflorescences.

Attending fruit thinning. Fruit thinning includes fruit thinning and fruit thinning.