First of all, we need a spoke wrench, which is shaped like a circle and has 4-6 bayonets of different sizes, suitable for different sizes of spoke caps.
One end of the spoke has a small hole with a 90-degree angle passing through the wheel drawer, and the other end has a spoke cap passing through the spoke hole of the wheel rim.
The most common way to weave a web with spokes is to build a web with three spokes, that is, each spoke crosses the other three spokes once.
There are ribs between the spokes and the spoke cap. Turn the spoke cap with a spoke wrench to adjust the spoke tightness.
However, before adjusting the spokes, the tire must be deflated. Otherwise, the rotating spoke cap can easily puncture the inner tube.
Adjust the spoke tightness to keep the rim straight. You can observe the geometry of the rim in the following three ways:
1. Remove the wheel and install it on the special ring inspection frame.
2. Do not remove the wheel, hold the fork with one hand and tilt your thumb close to the inside of the rim.
3. Observe the gap between the brake and the rim.
Either way, the principle is:
Turn the wheel, if the gap between the rim and the benchmark is large, tighten the spokes here, otherwise loosen the spokes;
If the rim deviates to the left, tighten the right spoke and loosen the left spoke. Conversely, tighten the left side and loosen the right side.
Finally, the gap between the whole circle and the reference object is completely uniform, and the spokes are elastic and uniform, so that the school bus circle is completed.
Preliminary adjustment of spokes
Once the rim is completed, adjust all the spoke nuts so that they can be screwed into the spokes as much as possible. It can be done with a screwdriver (electric is better). A good starting point is to tighten them all, so that the threaded part of the spoke will disappear into the spoke nut. If the spokes are a little short, maybe you should leave a small part of the thread exposed. In this step, it is important to make all 36 spokes as uniform as possible, all spokes are only loose, that is, all spokes are just tight. If some spokes are too tight or too loose, they must be adjusted in the same way to provide a reference line for adjusting the circle. If you find that some spokes are much tighter than others, please carefully check the spoke weaving style. On some rims, the joint of the rim is thicker than other parts, so you may want to loosen the two spokes closest to the joint (usually opposite the air nozzle hole) for one or two turns.
At this step, the spokes will not be straightened, but will be obviously bent near the hub. In particular, the front trailing spokes will protrude outward, keeping them away from the hub, and then gradually bend back to the rim. Before you start to tighten these spokes, you should stick them neatly on one side of the hub edge by hand. This can be easily done by pressing each spoke with your thumb about an inch from the hub. If you don't do this, the spokes of the wheel will still bend slightly after completion. In the first few hundred miles of the road, these bends will gradually straighten and the wheels will loosen and deform.
Tighten plastic surgery. Now, you must put the wheel on the adjustment frame. If it is already quite good, then you are lucky, but if it is still far behind, you don't have to make a fuss. If the spokes are still loose, you can easily swing the rim back and forth. You should tighten each spoke once. Do it in one direction from the nozzle hole until it returns to the nozzle, so that it will not leak. Make sure you turn the spoke nut in the right direction. When you use a screwdriver, you can easily point out the tightening direction, that is, clockwise. When you start to use the spoke wrench, you will be a little confused because you are working on the back of the clock now. Continue tightening in this way for one week at a time until the wheels start to strengthen. Once the wheel starts to have a little tension, you should start to adjust its shape. You need to control four different elements to complete the adjustment. They are: end-face runout, circular runout, symmetry and tension. The original text is horizontal shaping, vertical shaping, dish-shaped and tension. I think my name is more in line with the custom of China industry. Throughout the process, constantly check all four elements and adjust the worst one.
Try to adjust independently of each other. For face runout, turn the wheel on the ring-shaped adjustment frame to find out the maximum deviation from most rims. If it leans to the left, tighten the spokes connected to the right rim and loosen the spokes connected to the left rim. If the number of turns tightened is the same as the number of turns loosened, you can move the rim sideways without affecting roundness. For example, if the rim deviates to the left, the bending center, that is, the point of maximum deviation, is between the two spokes. Tighten the right spoke 1/4 and loosen the left spoke1/4; If the bending center is close to the right spoke, tighten the spoke 1/4, and then loosen the two spokes next to it to the left1/8; If the bending center is close to the left spoke, loosen this spoke 1/4 turns, and then connect the two adjacent spokes to the right spoke 1/8 turns respectively. After adjusting the most salient point to the left, find the most salient point and adjust it to the right. Continue this alternate adjustment. Don't try to adjust every bump to the best, just adjust it better and look for it on the other side. Keep going, and the wheels will get better gradually. For circular runout, find the area with the highest protrusion on the rim (that is, the area farthest from the shaft). If the center of the projection is between two spokes, each spoke is 1/2 turns. If the center of the protrusion is on a spoke, tighten the spoke 1 turn, and then tighten the two spokes connected to the other rim on both sides 1/2 turn. It needs more adjustment to affect the circular runout than to affect the end runout. Reducing circular runout is usually done by tightening spokes, so that the wheels will be tightened gradually during your continuous adjustment. Once the end-face runout reaches a certain level (1 or within 2 mm), it is necessary to start checking the symmetry. On one side of the wheel, the adjustable probe of the disc-shaped strip passes through the wheel shaft, and the adjustable probe makes both ends of the disc-shaped strip contact the rim, and at the same time, the probe contacts the outer side of the locking nut on the wheel shaft. Then move the dish bar to the other side of the wheel and check the wheel without adjusting the probe. If the probe touches the outer side of the lock nut, both ends can't touch the rim at the same time, and the dish-shaped strip can swing back and forth, it is necessary to adjust the spokes on this side to pull the rim; If both ends of the dish-shaped strip touch the rim, but the probe cannot touch the lock nut, the spokes on the other side need to be tightened. If the symmetry error exceeds 2 or 3 mm, you should tighten all 18 spokes on the corresponding side by the same number, perhaps 1/2 turns, starting from the nozzle hole along the rim. When the symmetry error is within 1 or 2 mm, you have to go back and continue to adjust the end face runout, but now it is no longer adjusted alternately. If it is necessary to move the rim to the right to improve symmetry, find the place with the most protrusions on the left, make adjustments, then find the next place with the most protrusions on the left, and so on. In the whole process of doing this, you need to constantly check the loop jump. Whenever the circular run-out is greater than the end-face run-out, adjust the circular run-out first.
You also need to pay attention to the tension on the flywheel side. There are three ways to check the tension: the first way is to see the difficulty of turning the spoke wrench. If this is so difficult that you have to worry about damaging the spoke nuts, then you are close to the maximum. 15 years ago, this was a strength limiting factor. As long as you don't pull the spoke nuts, you can tighten the wheels as much as possible. Modern high-quality spokes and spoke nuts have tighter threads, but now it is possible that the rim will be damaged when they are pulled too tightly. The second way to judge the tension is to pull up the strings at the intersection and then let go of the spokes, and then judge the pitch it produces. If you don't have a piano or pitch discrimination in your shop, you can compare it with a well-known wheel with spokes of the same specification. This will make you do almost the same. Before I used the spoke tensiometer, there was a separate player in my toolbox, which recorded the F# sound I played on the piano, the sound between my hair and the shuttle, which was a good average pitch for stainless steel spokes with normal length. Personally, I feel that the right column C and the lower column C in the table below should be lowercase, because they are one octave higher. The third and best method is to use a spoke tensiometer. Every well-equipped store should have one. The average tension on the flywheel side should reach the nominal values of spokes and rims used. More importantly, they should be unified. Don't worry about the tension on the left side of the rear wheel. If the tension on the flywheel side is correct and the wheel has the correct symmetry, the left side will be loose. But you still have to check the uniformity.
Spoke torsion
When the wheels start to tighten, you must start to deal with spoke torsion. When you turn the spoke wrench, the first thing that happens is that the spokes are twisted due to the friction of the threads. When the spoke nut rotates far enough, the torsion of the spoke produces enough reaction force to offset the friction force, and the thread begins to move, but the spoke will remain twisted. A good wheel knitting machine is better than an automatic wheel knitting robot because it can feel the twist. If you "finish" the wheel weaving and adjust it completely according to your standard, but the spokes are still twisted. The wheel will not keep accurate after going on the road, and the torsion of the spokes will gradually eliminate itself, so the wheel will be deformed and deviate from its original position.
You can avoid this problem by using your spoke wrench sensitively. What you need to do is to transcend and return. In other words, to accurately tighten a spoke 1/4 turn, you can't just turn the spoke wrench 1/4 turn, but turn it a little more, and then turn it back to the same amount. The spoke nut was finally tightened by 1/4 turns, but the torsion of the spoke was released during the rotation.
This is easier for straight spokes because they are more resistant to torsion; For spokes with non-circular cross section, it is easier to check this torsion. This is one of the reasons why I like pneumatic spokes: not only its aerodynamic performance, but also because it can show the torsion state.