1. The purpose of pruning grapes is to adjust the contradiction between growth and fruiting, and rationally arrange branches and vines on the shelf surface, so that management is convenient, the trees are robust, the life span is prolonged, and conditions are created for high yield in successive years.
1. Winter pruning. Generally, it is carried out about one month after defoliation in autumn to about 20 days before germination in the following year. Pruning too early or too late will cause serious damage to trees. According to the strength of trees and the length of fruiting branches, the principles of grape pruning in winter are: strong vines stay long and weak vines stay short; Leave the upper part long and the lower part short. Generally divided into three methods: long vine pruning, short vine pruning and middle vine pruning. At the same time, cut off dense branches, sparse branches and pests and diseases.
2. Plant management during growth. Erase too many unnecessary buds as soon as possible. Tie the tip and remove the tendrils. When the new shoots grow to 25~30 cm, they should be tied in time and the tendrils should be removed. New shoot coring and secondary branch treatment. The secondary branch under the ear can be removed from the base, and the secondary branch on the ear can be cored with 2 leaves, and the secondary branch at the top of the main branch can be left with a few leaves. One week before flowering, the fruit branches can leave 6-8 leaves above the ear for coring. Pruning of inflorescences and spikes. It is suggested to leave a well-developed inflorescence on the fruiting branch. For varieties with scattered panicles, the secondary panicles should be cut off and the tips should be pinched before flowering; Varieties with high fruit setting rate should be sparse after flowering.
2. Fertilizer and water management: per 100 kg of berries, about 0.25-0.75 kg of nitrogen, 0.2-0.75 kg of phosphorus and 0. 13-0.63 kg of potassium are needed. Base fertilizer should be applied from the end of September to the beginning of 10 when the new shoots are fully mature. Topdressing is usually topdressing with available nitrogen fertilizer more than ten days before flowering. At the beginning of July, topdressing potassium fertilizer was the main method. Fertilization should be carried out in an annular ditch about 1 m away from the plant. The depth of base fertilizer is about 40 cm, and the topdressing should be shallow. Water is needed after fertilization. Spraying 1-3% calcium superphosphate solution before flowering, young fruit stage and berry maturity; Spraying 0.05-0. 1% boric acid solution before flowering; Spraying potassium salt solution or 3% plant ash extract during fruit setting and fruit growth. Before the juice flows to blossom, we should pay attention to keep the soil moist and create good fertilizer and water conditions for flowering and fruit setting. But it is not suitable for watering at flowering stage. After fruit setting and before coloring, a lot of water is needed, which can be watered every 7- 10 days according to the weather. Fruit grains are generally not watered during the coloring period. After harvest, combine fertilization in autumn and water once permeable and once frozen in winter.
Three, the main pests and diseases and their prevention and control
1. Grape black pox, the main grape disease. Cut off diseased branches, leaves and fruits in time, and cut off diseased branches to burn or bury them in winter to reduce the source of disease; Spraying 5-degree stone sulfur mixture when buds swell before germination; In the growing period, the Bordeaux mixture was sprayed according to the ratio of copper sulfate 1 kg, quicklime 0.5 kg and water 80- 100 kg. Grape downy mildew. Spray 200 times of Bordeaux mixture for 2-3 times from July. Grape anthracnose. Cut off diseased branches in time to eliminate the source of the disease; After mid-June, spray 600-800 times of special sterilization liquid every half month. Grape powdery mildew. Strengthen management, cage surface ventilation and transparency; Pour out the cut diseased branches and leaves; Spraying 5-degree stone sulfur mixture before germination, and spraying 0.2-0.3-degree stone sulfur mixture once in mid-May. Grape pot disease. Adjust the seed setting amount by keeping branches, thinning ears or pinching ear tips properly; Strengthening fertilization, increasing tree nutrition and applying potassium fertilizer appropriately can reduce the occurrence of this disease.
2. Main grape pests and their control. Grape leafhopper Spraying 400 times pyridaben solution during the occurrence period. Grape spider. Peel off the old skin from the branches in winter and burn it; Spray 3 degrees before germination, and spray 0.2-0.3 degrees sulfur mixture during growth period. Sclerotinia sp. Spraying 50% dichlorvos 1000 times for control. Check the tender branches from June to July and cut off the damaged branches; For branches that are not suitable for pruning, the larvae in the branches can be stabbed to death with iron wire, or the larvae can be taken out by slotting along the branches with a sharp knife, or 500 times of dichlorvos EC can be directly injected into the insect mouth, and then sealed with wet mud. Bordeaux mixture and stone sulfur mixture are commonly used drugs for grape pest control and cannot be mixed. After spraying the sulfur mixture, spray Bordeaux mixture every 15 days, and spray the sulfur mixture every 30 days.
Fourth, the root system of grafted cuttings of some varieties is underdeveloped and their growth potential is weak. It is often necessary to change seedlings or graft seedlings in production.
1. Spring connection. From late May to late June, the new shoots were semi-lignified and split.
2. Autumn. Within one month after the grapes are harvested, the branches of the current year have been lignified, and block mosaic bud grafting can be carried out.
It depends on the local grape level at first. It is not easy to survive too early, the growth period is short after budding too late, the lignification degree of new shoots is low, and it is impossible to overwinter in winter. Grafting method is adopted. The scion has a diameter of 0.8- 1 cm, a length of 5 cm and no petiole. Cut 2.5-3 cm on both sides of the full bud. The cutting surface should be smooth, forming a wedge with symmetrical sides. The thickness of the rootstock is slightly larger than that of the scion. Seedling grafting should be done at 10- 15 cm above the surface, and the grafting should be done at 5 cm at the base of the current branch. After the rootstock is cut flat, a vertical seam with a length of 3 cm is longitudinally split from the middle of the cross section to the north and south, and the cut scion is quickly inserted, with the bud on the scion facing south and the cross section exposed by 0.3 cm, so as to facilitate the joint healing. Then, the roots are wrapped, tied and knotted with plastic straps from bottom to top. Finally, wrap the scion tightly with plastic strips, only the buds are exposed. After 7- 10 days, the buds germinate, and when the new buds grow to 7-8 leaves, the tips should be picked in time. There are 1-2 leaves growing in leaf axils, leaving only one secondary tip at the top to prolong the growth. When it grows to 5-6 leaves, continue to pick the core and treat the secondary branches to promote the maturity of the branches.
2. Autumn grafting Autumn grafting time is within one month after grape harvest. At this point, the branches of the year have been lignified, and the block mosaic bud grafting method can be used. First, cut the scion from the top and bottom of the bud 1 cm with a sharp knife, and then cut the second half of the bud from the middle to make the scion petiole-free. Tie the grafting code to the rootstock with the same thickness, cross-cut the rootstock with a sharp knife near both ends of the grafting block, take down the grafting block, and cut a gap with the same size as the grafting block to the pith. Then insert the joint into the gap of the rootstock from up to down. Finally, wrap it with plastic strips completely, and the buds are not exposed. After the grape leaves fall, the wound heals. You can remove the dressing and cut off the rootstock 2 cm above the joint. All other useless branches on the rhizome are also thinned. In the next spring, the buds on the rootstock should be erased in time to facilitate the grafting buds to produce branches.