1. Plastic finishing
① Plastic surgery
Grapevine is long and soft, and it is easy to knot. They can be shaped by brackets, ancient piles and rocks. Common tree shapes are scattered, fan-shaped, cliff-shaped, single-armed, spiral and funnel-shaped. Here are some types suitable for potted plants.
Vertical shape
The trunk leaves are 60 ~ 100 cm, the top leaves have 3 ~ 5 fruiting branches, and 6 ~ 10 fruiting branches are drawn, which naturally droops and gives people a sense of elegance.
department
Leave 10 cm on the trunk, only one new shoot is left on the upper part after germination, and the core will be removed when it grows to 3 ~ 6 leaves, and 1 ~ 2 leaves will be left after the secondary branches grow. Repeat this process, and frame the branches into a fan shape after equal length molding, and the fruit ears are evenly distributed on the frame surface.
Cliff shape
After the main vine grows out of the basin surface of 15 cm, it droops 70 degrees and extends forward and downward, so that its bearing mother branches are evenly distributed. After the fruit is hung, it feels like a cliff.
② Pruning
Potted grapes are pruned in winter and in summer.
Pruning in winter is generally carried out after defoliation and before burying in the ground to prevent cold, and pruning during bleeding period should be avoided.
Results Pruning of mother branch: The cutting length of bearing mother branch of potted grape should be flexibly controlled according to the fruit habit, growth potential and modeling requirements of the variety. Generally, long branches cut 7 ~ 1 1 bud, middle branches cut 4 ~ 6 buds, and short branches cut 1 ~ 3 buds. Potted plants, pruning should be combined with modeling, long and short.
Summer pruning is the main pruning work of potted grapes, including budding, germination, pit removal, ear thinning, vine removal and secondary branch treatment.
Wipe and remove buds
In the early stage of bud germination, the overcrowded, misplaced buds and adventitious buds sprouting from the trunk are erased.
Pick your heart and dredge your ears.
Picking is to leave 4 ~ 6 leaves when the new shoots grow to about 20 cm, so as to slow down the growth of the overgrown branches. Before flowering, leave about 10 leaves for fruiting branches, and loosen the dense spikes and tendrils before flowering, which can improve the fruit setting rate and fruit quality. Thinning the ear of Heihan variety can improve the fruit-setting coefficient and set the fruit neatly.
Pruning of induced secondary fruits
The results of inducing winter buds can be about 7 ~ 10 days before flowering, leaving 6 ~ 8 nodes above the new shoot inflorescence, retaining the top two secondary branches, and cutting off all the others.
After the flower withers 10 ~ 15 days, all the remaining two secondary branches are cut off, so that the winter buds near the cut will germinate and generally two fruiting branches with inflorescences can be formed.
Using the fruits of summer buds and secondary branches: varieties with strong fruiting ability, before flowering 10 ~ 15 days, leave 6-8 leaves of the main branch for coring, leave 2-3 summer buds on the upper part, and smooth all the remaining summer buds and secondary branches. In this way, the 2 ~ 3 summer buds remaining in the upper part may have inflorescences and be drawn into fruiting branches. The time and method of inducing secondary fruiting branches should be appropriate and there should be sufficient fertilizer and water supply. Otherwise, malnutrition and smoking will not bear fruit.
2. Promote flowers and protect fruits
① Flower promotion
Increase the supply of fertilizer and water, pour 0.3% ~ 0.5% urea solution into the basin once a week in the germination stage, and apply fermented cake fertilizer and water 200 times every 10 day to ensure its good nutritional growth in the early stage.
Sparse branches
Loosen twigs, long branches and dense branches, reduce nutrient consumption, and leave strong new branches with ears.
Pick the core of the new bud.
3 ~ 5 days before flowering, when the vegetative branches and reserve branches grow to more than 8 ~ 12 leaves, the new shoots stop growing, which is beneficial to flower bud differentiation.
Auxiliary tip coring
Leave 1 ~ 2 leaves on the secondary branches of vegetative branches for coring. Leave 3 ~ 4 leaves at the top and coring at the second tip. Repeated treatment in the future will promote flower bud differentiation.
② flower protection and fruit protection
Picking fruit branches and leaving 4 ~ 5 leaves above the inflorescence 4 ~ 5 days before flowering can improve the fruit setting rate.
③ Sparse flowers and fruits.
Sparse redundant and weak inflorescences. There are two inflorescences in the robust branch and 1 inflorescence in the medium branch. At the same time, 1 ~ 2 secondary spikes and spike tips of inflorescence were removed.
hormone therapy
Spraying 0.3% borax solution, spraying 30 mg/L gibberellin or chlormequat chloride, B9, etc. After flowering.
Pruning secondary branches of fruiting branches
Keep 1 ~ 2 attachment tips at the top of the fruiting branch, and remove the rest. Leave 3 ~ 4 leaves at the left secondary tip for coring. Can improve the fruit setting rate.
Strengthen fertilizer and water management
Apply 0.3% ~ 0.5% potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution or spray 0.3% potassium dihydrogen phosphate at the peak of fruit growth, 65438 0 times a week. There must be no less water in the basin to prevent plants from falling flowers and fruits due to lack of water.