The official dress of men in the Tang Dynasty was the first dress developed on the basis of the Han and Wei Dynasties, and it was also called Fu Tou. After the Tang Dynasty, people added a fixed ornament to the hoe, called "towel". The shape of towels varies from time to time. Besides towels, many changes have taken place in the feet of steamed bread. By the end of the Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties, the original soft foot had become a hard foot with one left and one right. Officials in the Tang Dynasty mainly wore round neck and narrow sleeves, and their colors have been stipulated: all officials with more than three products should use purple; More than five products, blushing for color; Six products and seven products are green; Eight products and nine products are cyan. There will be slight changes in the future. In addition, the application of horizontal bow under the robe was also a major feature of men's wear at that time. This soil is the exhibition of round neck gown and tulle in Tang Dynasty.
Uighur women's dress in the middle and late Tang Dynasty
[Transferred from Iron Blood Community/]
Exhibition of Uighur women's clothing in the middle and late Tang Dynasty. Comb a Uighur bun, wear a golden phoenix crown, wear a crane suit on the back, a lady in the late Tang Dynasty, and have variant brocade shoes with precious flower patterns. Uighur is a minority in the northwest of China, which is the predecessor of the present Uighur. During the Kaiyuan period of the Tang Dynasty, Uighur was the most powerful minority regime in the north. Uighurs and Han people have close and friendly relations, and their cultural exchanges and economic exchanges have never stopped. The costumes of the Uighur people have had a great influence on the Han people, especially among aristocratic women and court women. The basic characteristics of Uighur clothes are slightly like men's robes, lapels, narrow sleeves, wide body and long ground. The color is mainly warm, especially red. Most of the materials are thick brocade, and the collar and sleeves are inlaid with wide brocade lace. Wearing this kind of clothing, you usually put your hair in a vertebral bun, which is called "Uighur bun". On the bun, there is another peach-shaped golden crown decorated with pearl jade, and there is a phoenix bird on it. Hairpins are usually inserted in temples, and many exquisite jewelry are worn on ears and neck. Wear soft brocade shoes with your head up.
Sui and Tang armor
Armor of Sui and Tang Dynasties The armor of Tang Dynasty was used in actual combat, mainly armor and leather armor. In addition to real armor and leather armor, silk armor was widely used in the armor of the Tang Dynasty. Silk armor is armor made of silk and other textiles. It is light in structure and beautiful in appearance, but it has no defensive ability and cannot be used in actual combat. It can only be used as a general's uniform or ceremonial uniform. The picture shows the wearing of armor.
Liaodai beiban clothing
The northern class in Liao Dynasty was mainly dressed in robes, which were available to both men and women. Clothing features are generally left collar, round neck and narrow sleeves. There are knotted buttons on the robe, which are tied to the chest and then hang down to the knees. The colors of robes are gray, such as gray-green, gray-blue, ochre yellow, black-green and so on, and the patterns are relatively simple. Most of the robes of the aristocratic class are exquisite and have flat rust patterns. Dragon pattern is a traditional pattern of Han nationality, which appears on the clothing of Qidan men, reflecting the mutual influence of the two nationalities. This picture shows a round neck robe.
Liaodai beiban clothing
[Transferred from Iron Blood Community/]
The northern class in Liao Dynasty was mainly dressed in robes, which were available to both men and women. Clothing features are generally left collar, round neck and narrow sleeves. There are knotted buttons on the robe, which are tied to the chest and then hang down to the knees. The color of robes is gray, such as gray-green, gray-blue, ochre yellow and black-green, and the pattern is simple. Most of the robes of the aristocratic class are exquisite and have flat rust patterns. This picture shows the left feather narrow sleeve robe.
Liaodai men's edition clothing
Southern half-clothing in Liao Dynasty Liao Dynasty called Han nationality clothing "Hanfu", also called "Southern half-clothing". It is different from the "national costume" (or "northern class costume") of the Qidan nationality. This kind of dress can be worn not only by ordinary people, but also by Han officials. The belt has a belt, which turned out to be made by Hu. There are rings between the belts, which are used to hang various articles for personal use, such as bows, arrows, calculators, knives and grindstones. It is also useful in other ethnic groups. The picture shows the gold ornaments (unearthed from Liaoning Liao tomb)
Jin Dai GUI zu clothing
This picture of the aristocratic costumes of the Jin Dynasty shows wearing narrow-sleeved robes and long skirts. The decorative patterns in the Jin Dynasty liked animals, especially deer. A pair of red deer and a male deer proudly stand on the jade carving board unearthed from the Orimijin tomb in the lower reaches of Songhua River. A doe stared at me, gentle and elegant. There is a small tree on the left and right, indicating that the deer lives in the forest and has the decorative characteristics of nomadic people. The carved bricks unearthed from Zhongshan Golden Tomb in Lanzhou are also engraved with a large number of deer patterns. As for the patterns found in Ma Chunjin's tomb and Huashan Huayu in Shanxi, the images of deer are also different, either slowly or galloping, full of rich flavor of life. This decorative feature is also reflected in a large number of clothes and costumes. In the history of the Jin Dynasty, there was a record that the dress of the Jurchen nationality was "written in Xionglu Mountain Forest". Deer prints are widely used, except for their beautiful appearance and convenient decoration. Another reason is that deer is homophonic with the Chinese character "deer", which means good luck. The skirt pattern in this picture is decorated with deer patterns. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, deer patterns were not accepted by the government, but they were still widely used by the people. It is more common to combine it with words such as "Fu" and "Shou" and call it "Fu, Lu and Shou".
Noble casual clothes in yuan dynasty
[Transferred from Iron Blood Community/]
Yuan dynasty aristocratic casual clothes map, narrow sleeve woven dragon brocade robe, corrugated hat, cloud shoulder, satin boots. In the Yuan Dynasty, the nobles attacked the Han system and widely woven dragon patterns on their clothes. According to Yuan Shi, the emperor's robes, kneepads, hostesses, belts and ribbon rings were all decorated with various dragon patterns. There are eight dragons in the robe alone, not counting the little dragons beside the leader's clothes. The dragon pattern was created by the Han people, and it represents the culture of the Chinese nation. After the end of the Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties, the northern minorities successively established political power, and all followed this model without exception. It was more prominent in the Yuan Dynasty, and it was widely used in other household appliances besides clothing. In the Yuan Dynasty, Mongolian men wore corrugated hats made of rattan, which had two styles of Fiona Fang, and the top was decorated with jewelry.
Yuan dynasty brocade half sleeve
The picture of brocade and half sleeves in Yuan Dynasty is brocade and half sleeves. In the Yuan Dynasty, a large amount of gold was used for clothing, surpassing previous dynasties. The phenomenon of adding gold to fabrics appeared long before the Qin Dynasty. As for the use of Hanfu, it was about the Eastern Han Dynasty or later, mainly used in the court. It was not until the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties that the fashion of clothing weaving gold was popularized nationwide. There were eighteen kinds of gold for aristocratic costumes in Song Dynasty. Great progress has also been made in gold weaving technology in Liao and Jin areas, especially in Uighur areas, where the fabrics are the most popular and exquisite. After the Yuan Dynasty and Liao and Jin Dynasties, gold was better used in cloth than the previous generation.
Jin jinpao in yuan dynasty
Yuan dynasty aristocratic clothing Yuan dynasty clothing used a lot of gold, more than previous dynasties. The phenomenon of adding gold to fabrics appeared long before the Qin Dynasty. As for the use of Hanfu, it was about the Eastern Han Dynasty or later, mainly used in the court. It was not until the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties that the fashion of clothing weaving gold was popularized nationwide. There were eighteen kinds of gold for aristocratic costumes in Song Dynasty. Great progress has also been made in gold weaving technology in Liao and Jin areas, especially in Uighur areas, where the fabrics are the most popular and exquisite. After the Yuan Dynasty and Liao and Jin Dynasties, gold was better used in cloth than the previous generation. This painting shows a brocade gown with a cross collar.
Knitted coat for men's clothing in Yuan Dynasty
[Transferred from Iron Blood Community/]
The picture of braided clothes in Yuan Dynasty shows braided clothes, square corrugated heald hats and leather boots. Mongolian man, wearing a "corrugated hat" made of rattan, has two styles of Fiona Fang, and the top is decorated with jewels. The style of knitted coat is round neck, tight sleeves, wide hem and tightly folded. A wide waist made of braided thread is sewn on the waist and some buttons are nailed, commonly known as "knitted coat" or "tunic coat". Knitted coats were produced in the Jin Dynasty, but they were widely used in the Yuan Dynasty. At first, it may be the clothing of humble waiters and guards. Later, wearing braided clothes was not limited to the guards, especially at the end of the Yuan Dynasty. Generally speaking, the image of "officials" in "Fanbang" mostly wears this suit. This kind of dress has been followed until the Ming Dynasty, not only has it not been eliminated with the large-scale transformation of the dress system, but has become the dress of upper-level officials, even the emperor and ministers wear it.
Women's Clothing of Han Nationality in Yuan Dynasty
Most of the costumes displayed in the pictures of Han women's costumes in the Yuan Dynasty were taken from a Yuan tomb in the suburbs of Wuxi, including double-breasted tops with wide edges, short edges and no edges, vests with double-breasted slits and lapels with purple sauce silk edges, single-breasted skirts with cross stitches in the center of the front, and skirts with folded edges on both sides. There are two styles of shoes, one is palindrome; The other is a plain, pointed, knotted upper with lines. The sole is made of coarse cotton cloth. There are also pants, wallets and other things that women use. The picture above shows a double-breasted silk blouse; The middle picture shows a double-breasted silk quilt; Below is a silk skirt (unearthed).
Half-arm skirt in Yuan Dynasty
In the Yuan Dynasty, skirts and gowns were half-armed, with gowns as the main clothing. The style is slightly larger than that of Liao Dynasty. Men's official uniforms mostly come from the customs of the Han nationality, "making Luo, big sleeves, standing collar and right collar." Its status is reflected in the colors and patterns of clothing. The crown of public office is made of hoes and lacquered yarn to show its feet. Wear Yan clothes and narrow sleeves on weekdays. Servants with lower status often wear a short-sleeved shirt outside their uniforms, and women also have this custom (called a half-arm skirt). In addition to the robes commonly used in Liao and Jin dynasties, there is also a robe style, which is round neck, tight sleeves, wide hem and dense pleats. This photo shows the dress and half an arm.
Armor and military uniform of Liao Dynasty
[Transferred from Iron Blood Community/]
The costumes in Liao, Jin and Yuan Dynasties were established by the Qidan nationality, and quickly became strong in a short time, mainly absorbing and adopting the advanced culture, production technology and social system of the Central Plains, and naturally including military velvet costumes. In terms of armor, according to Liao history, when Liao was in Qidan, the army had already used armor, mainly in the styles of the late Tang Dynasty, the Five Dynasties and the Song Dynasty, mainly in the Song Dynasty. The upper structure of the armor is exactly the same as that of the Song Dynasty, but the leg skirt is obviously shorter than that of the Song Dynasty, and the two-sided stork tail armor covers the leg skirt, maintaining the characteristics of the late Tang Dynasty and the Five Dynasties. Armor belly protector seems to be hung in front of the abdomen with a belt, and then fixed with a belt. Like leather armor in the Song Dynasty, the big circle protector in the middle of the chest is unique to the Liao Dynasty. In the Liao Dynasty, leather armor was used in addition to real armor. The clothing of Qidan military attache can be divided into official clothing and official clothing. There is no obvious difference in style. They are all narrow-sleeved robes with stand-up collars. Like ordinary men's clothes, official clothes may be slightly tighter than official clothes. Both can be worn as military uniforms. This picture shows the restoration of the armor and uniforms of the warriors in Liao Dynasty.
Kirin robes of Ming dynasty officials
[Transferred from Iron Blood Community/]
Exhibition map of official uniforms in Ming Dynasty. The costumes of civil and military officials in the Ming Dynasty mainly include court clothes, sacrificial clothes, public clothes and regular clothes. Kirin robe is the official's royal dress. Its clothing is characterized by a large front, a sloping collar and loose sleeves, and a horizontal front. ,? It is full. Embroidered patterns, in addition to the chest and back group, are also distributed at the upper end of the rotator cuff and under the waist (a horizontal bar). In addition, a wide edge made of natural color was sewn under the left and right ribs, which was called "pendulum" at that time. Liu Ruoyu, the eunuch of the Ming Dynasty, described this kind of clothing in his book Proceedings. He said: "It has a continuous back, but it has a pendulum on both sides, two sections in front and a horse face fold under it, starting from both sides." According to the regulations, the materials and patterns used in this kind of clothing have a certain system. "History of Ming Dynasty, Yu Fu Zhi" said: In the thirteenth year of Zheng De, "I gave the minister red silk to store yarn. Its clothing color, bullfighting one product, flying fish two products, python three products, Kirin four or five products, tiger six or seven products; Hanlin technology is not limited to achievements; However, Cao's five products are not harmonious. " The clothes in this painting are embroidered with unicorn patterns. Kirin is an animal in ancient legend, which looks like a deer, with scales, horseshoes and horns. Later generations regarded it as a symbol of good luck and widely used in the decoration of various utensils. The image of Kirin has also undergone some changes. The head is painted as a faucet with two horns, and the tail is painted as a lion's tail. In the Ming Dynasty, it seems that the official dress of embroidered Kirin is not limited to four or five products, but can also be worn by a Royal Guards with special duties.
Official costume of Ming dynasty
Officials in the Ming Dynasty used to wear uniforms. This picture shows the supplementary services of officials and their work. Put on their jobs and hats, and put on robes with narrow sleeves. A "collar" is a high collar with a round brim. This kind of robe is the main clothing style of men in Ming Dynasty, which can be worn not only by bureaucrats but also by ordinary people, but with different colors. The collar clothes worn by ordinary people must avoid dark black, purple, green, willow yellow, turmeric and bright yellow, while others such as blue and ochre are not restricted, commonly known as "variegated collar clothes". Twenty-five years after the founding of the Ming Dynasty, the court made new regulations on official uniforms. All civil and military officials, regardless of rank, must put patches on the chest and back of the robe, with birds for civil servants and beasts for military officers to show the difference. This is the most distinctive costume in the official costume of the Ming Dynasty.
Ming dynasty thread embroidered robe
Ming Dynasty clothing Wanli winged three-eyed dragon, double-breasted and embroidered dragon robe with narrow sleeves (unearthed objects), and the vertical part of the robe material has been cut short. From ancient times to the Ming Dynasty, the dragon pattern changed its energy countless times. Generally speaking, the dragon patterns in the pre-Qin period are relatively simple and rough, and most of them have no limbs and claws, similar to reptiles. In Qin and Han dynasties, dragon patterns were mostly animal-shaped, with intact limbs and claws, but without scales. They are often painted as walking patterns, giving people an illusory feeling. The image of the dragon in Ming Dynasty is more perfect, which concentrates the local characteristics of various animals, such as head like a bull's head, body like a snake, horns like antlers, eyes like shrimp's eyes, nose like a lion's nose, mouth like a donkey's mouth, ears like cat's ears, claws like eagle's claws and tail like a fish's tail. The structure and organization of the pattern are also very distinctive. In addition to the traditional dragon walking and Yunlong, there are other names such as Tuanlong, Zheng Long, Zuolong, Ascending Dragon and Descending Dragon.
Ming dynasty clothing longpao
[Transferred from Iron Blood Community/]
Late Ming Dynasty and Ming Dynasty Costume Golden Land Silk Peacock Feather Robe. The whole body is embroidered with dragon patterns. Judging from the clothing style, the style is inclined collar robe, which is the emperor's casual clothes. From ancient times to the Ming Dynasty, the dragon pattern changed its energy countless times. Generally speaking, the dragon patterns in the pre-Qin period are relatively simple and rough, and most of them have no limbs and claws, similar to reptiles. In Qin and Han dynasties, dragon patterns were mostly animal-shaped, with intact limbs and claws, but without scales. They are often painted as walking patterns, giving people an illusory feeling. The image of the dragon in Ming Dynasty is more perfect, which concentrates the local characteristics of various animals, such as head like a bull's head, body like a snake, horns like antlers, eyes like shrimp's eyes, nose like a lion's nose, mouth like a donkey's mouth, ears like cat's ears, claws like eagle's claws and tail like a fish's tail. The structure and organization of the pattern are also very distinctive. In addition to the traditional dragon walking and Yunlong, there are other names such as Tuanlong, Zheng Long, Zuolong, Ascending Dragon and Descending Dragon.
Men's robes in Ming dynasty
In the Ming Dynasty, officials usually wore five bats and held a robe with a longevity pattern, while men wore square nipples and robes. In Ming Dynasty, men's casual clothes were mostly robes and shirts, mainly with wide breasts, right sleeves and wide sleeves, and the bottoms were knee-length. The leisure fabrics of aristocratic men are mainly satin, with patterns and tapestries painted on them. Most of the patterns on robes are auspicious. Among the more common clouds and bats, there is a group of "longevity", which means "five bats hold longevity". This pattern was particularly popular in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, not only in clothing, but also in other utensils and architectural decoration. On the other hand, true flower is an abstract decorative pattern, which is usually based on lotus, honeysuckle or peony, distorted and exaggerated, and interspersed with some branches and leaves and buds to form a neat, dignified and lively decorative pattern. This style of clothing was very popular at that time. Since the Tang Dynasty, a large number of precious flowers have entered costumes and become the favorite artistic patterns of the broad masses of the people. In the Ming dynasty, baohua was once a special pattern for emperors and queens, and it was forbidden for people to use it, just like python dragon pattern. But soon the ban was lifted and applied to all kinds of clothing. This picture is the former kind of casual wear. The fabric of the clothes is blue satin embroidered with longevity patterns, and there are gold, silver and light blue plates.
Warrior armor in Qing dynasty
The headdresses of the Qing Dynasty, whether made of iron or leather, were painted on the surface. There are two beams at the front, back, left and right of the helmet, and a cover eyebrow protrudes from the middle of the forehead, on which there is a dancing engine and a bowl. There is a helmet plate shaped like a small handleless wine cup on the bowl, and there is an iron pipe or copper pipe for cutting the tassel gun, carving feathers or otter tail in the middle of the helmet plate. There are lapis lazuli and other colors of silk collar, neck and ear protectors, embroidered with patterns and decorated with copper or iron foam nails. Armor is divided into armor and apron. Shoulder pad is installed on the shoulder of armor, and shoulder pad provides underarm protection; In addition, wear a metal heart protector on the chest and back, and a trapezoidal abdomen protector on the front seam under the mirror, which is called "front guard". Wearing a "left block" on the left side of the waist and not wearing a block on the right side is reserved for wearing a bow and arrow bag. The apron is divided into left and right pieces and tied around the waist with a belt when worn. In the middle of the two skirts, a tiger head made of the same material covered her knees. This picture shows the restoration of the warriors wearing helmets and armour in the Qing Dynasty.