Pruning is one of the key measures for fast growth, early fruiting, high yield, stable yield and high quality of mango.
1, pruning young trees. After planting, the height of the seedlings is 80- 100 cm, and the shaping begins.
(1) When the height of natural round-headed crown stem seedlings is 80- 100 cm, pick or chop them to promote trunk branching.
(1) After cultivating the main branch, select 3-5 branches with equal growth potential and moderate position at 50-70 cm, keep them as main branches, and remove the rest. If the growth potential is quite different or inappropriate, it can be corrected by pulling and pressing branches or manual traction. The included angle between the main branch and the trunk is maintained at 50-70 degrees.
(2) secondary main branches are cultivated, and when the main branches are elongated by 60-70cm, the tops are removed to promote their branching. Select three branches with similar growth potential at 50-60 cm, of which two are reserved as secondary main branches, and the uppermost branch is reserved as the continuation branch of the main branch. When the extension branches are extended by 50-60 cm, the second layer of auxiliary main branches is left; If so, leave the third and fourth layers of auxiliary branches. The other auxiliary branches should be on the same plane as the main branches, and the included angle with the main branches should be greater than 45 degrees, so as to avoid overlapping or cross-branching. The length of the auxiliary main branch should not exceed the length of the main branch.
(3) Auxiliary branch and its handling. Branches extracted from auxiliary main branches can develop into branches or fruiting mother branches, and should not be cut off. The strong branches with long legs should be cut short to promote branching, so as to maintain the subordinate nature of branches; For upright branches that disturb the tree shape, cross or overlapping branches should be cut off. Results After 2-3 years, some branches became weak or inappropriate, which affected the ventilation and light transmission of the crown or gradually became thinner.
In the pruning of young trees, it is mainly to cultivate backbone branches, increase the number of branches as much as possible, control the excessive growth of branches, and prune branches that are out of place. Within 2-3 years after planting, 50-60 top branches with vigorous growth but not collapse and suitable position will be cultivated to form a short, round-headed and well-lit crown, which will lay a good foundation for early fruiting.
(2) forming natural fan-shaped crown
(1) After the buds of the main branch and the auxiliary branch are cut off, three branches are selected, one of which is the continuation trunk and the other two are the first-level main branches. The two main branches are opposite to each other on a straight line, and each of them forms an angle of 15 degrees with the row direction. If the angle does not match, it can be corrected by manual traction. After the trunk continues to extend, the main branch of the second layer stays at a distance of 100- 120 cm from the main branch of the first layer, and the branching direction is inclined to the first layer. After that, the crown will be rectangular or dumbbell-shaped.
(2) The cultivation method of secondary main branches and branches is the same as that of round crown. In order to prevent the branches from drooping after fruit hanging, a bamboo pole was tied to the trunk of the first fruit tree for hanging branches after fruit hanging.
(3) Pruning of the fruit tree. At this time, pruning is mainly based on short cutting and thinning.
(1) Pruning before flower bud differentiation, thinning out over-dense branches, weak shading branches, pests and diseases branches, crossing branches, overlapping branches and over-flourishing branches, increasing crown light transmittance and promoting flower bud differentiation. For plants that grow too vigorously and fail to bear fruit for many years, methods such as girdling the main branches, girdling, tying silk and cutting roots can be used to inhibit plant growth and promote flower bud differentiation.
(2) After the second physiological fruit drop, cut off the pedicels and branches that affect the fruit development, and remove abnormal fruits, diseased fruits and too small abortive fruits. If two fruits stick together, one should be removed, and 3-4 fruits with normal development should be left in one ear. Fruitless or fruitless branches can be shortened as appropriate to promote the selection of new shoots, cultivate fruiting mother branches in the coming year, and increase the light transmittance of crown.
(3) Pruning after fruit picking This is the key pruning period. After the fruit is picked, the fruiting branch should be cut to 2-3 knots at the base of the secondary branch in time. If there are branches crossing between plants, they can be as short as not crossing. Diseases and insect pests, too dense branches, cross branches, overlapping branches and weak branches in the crown should be thinned out. Branches and long branches that have failed due to years of fruit should generally be cut off, but if the position is suitable or the crown is weak, the regeneration can also be shortened to rejuvenate the crown.
(4) It will take more than 65,438+00 years or decades for old and weak trees to rejuvenate, or plants with aging branches, few fruits and low yield due to out-of-control and diseases and insect pests can be replanted for rejuvenation. The method is: re-cut the main branches 60-80 cm away from the trunk, and re-cultivate the backbone branches and branches. The root system is also shortened to promote the production of new roots. You can dig a deep annular ditch about 2 meters away from the trunk and apply decomposed manure or compost to induce new roots. The best cutting time is June 10 to March of the following year. Regenerated plants can have a good harvest after two years of normal management.
No matter shaping or pruning, it must be closely combined with fertilization and pest control to achieve the expected results.