1. Chongqing Tianqing Rock Climbing Hall
2. Jiangbei Beicheng Tianjie Artificial Rock Climbing Ground
3. South Bank Hyatt Rock Climbing (Nanping West Road, behind Langgao Parkson)
4. The sports and leisure hall on the 5th floor of Yintai Department Store has recently built the highest indoor climbing hall in Chongqing.
6. Chongqing Shan Ying Rock Climbing Club
Shan Ying Rock Climbing Hall monthly card 160 yuan, annual card 1060 yuan.
Because rock climbing requires high physical fitness, courage, physical coordination and flexibility, it is included in the extreme sports together with bungee jumping, skiing, hole exploration and ice climbing. The safety of indoor rock climbing is reliably guaranteed, and outdoor rock climbing is very dangerous. Beginners should start learning from indoor rock climbing.
One-or three-point fixing method
Three-point fixation is the basic method of rock climbing. The main points are: there are certain requirements for posture and movements of various parts of the body.
Body posture: when climbing, the body should be relaxed naturally, the center of gravity should be stabilized with three fulcrums, and the center of gravity should move with the change of climbing action, which is the key to stability, balance and labor-saving of climbing.
Arm movement: When climbing the artificial rock wall, the wrist should be tense, and at the same time, the first knuckle should be required to dig the fulcrum, the palm should be attached to the rock wall, and the forearm droops and the palm should be attached to the rock wall. When you pull your body, your fingers (grip points) will press down and raise your arms. However, when climbing a natural rock wall, its movements change greatly, and various methods of exerting force should be adopted according to different fulcrums, such as grasping, hugging, hanging, digging, scraping, pinching, pulling, pushing and supporting.
Foot movement: the main point of foot movement is that the legs rotate outward, the inner side of the big toe is close to the rock surface, the legs are slightly flexed, and the center of gravity is maintained by stepping on the fulcrum with the foot. When the size and direction of natural rock wall fulcrum are different, it should be used flexibly. But remember, don't touch the rock surface with your knees. In addition, when stepping on the fulcrum with your foot, don't use too much force, and master the direction of force.
Coordination of hands and feet: To learn rock climbing, we should first practice the strength of upper limbs, which should focus on the strength of fingers, wrists and arms, and then cooperate with the strength of ankles, toes and legs, so that the center of gravity of the body can move in coordination with the different directions of force, and the coordination of hands and feet will be free.
Second, the basic techniques of rock climbing
(1) Climbing protection
Climbers climb through climbing ropes under the protection of protectors. One end of the climbing rope is connected with the waist safety belt of the climber through the iron lock or directly, the other end passes through the iron lock and the descender connected with the waist safety belt of the protector, and the middle passes through one or more iron locks fixed on the safety fulcrum. The protective device keeps giving (or withdrawing) the rope when the climber rises, and tightens the rope to stop falling when the climber misses. When suddenly falling, the impact is so great that it is difficult to grasp the rope directly. The impact force is mainly offset by the friction between the rope and the iron lock and the descender. Because there is great friction on the protection fulcrum, lighter people can protect heavier people. According to the relative position of protection fulcrum, protection forms are generally divided into the following two types:
1. Top ROP:
A form of protection where the protection fulcrum is above the climber. In the process of climbing, the protector has been pulling the rope, so that there is no rope left on the climber's chest, but don't pull it too tightly, so as not to affect the climber's action, which should be paid special attention to when climbing high elevation angle. The upper protection has no special requirements for climbers, and the impact force is small and safer when falling. In the following protection, the equipment used generally includes seat belts, iron locks and descenders. When the protector takes up the rope, it should be noted that one hand should always hold the rope behind the descender (or hold the ropes at both ends of the descender together), and it is difficult to stop falling only by holding the rope in front of the descender.
2. Low ROP:
The protection method that the protection fulcrum is located under the climber. There is no preset protection point on it, but the climber always hangs the protection rope into the iron lock on the safety fulcrum on the way up. This is the only feasible protection method for the leader climber, and it is practical, and it is the protection party stipulated in international competitions. However, this protection method requires the climber to hang himself for protection, and it has a long falling distance and strong impact force, so it is generally used by skilled people.
Rock climbing requires good physical conditions, but more importantly, skilled skills. Learning climbing skills is very practical and must be practiced in constant climbing. If you have skilled people to guide you, you will get twice the result with half the effort.
(2) Technology:
The fundamental purpose of freehand rock climbing is to make the body move upward and get close to the rock wall. There are many fulcrum shapes on the rock wall, and there are dozens of common ones. Climbers should be familiar with the shapes of these fulcrums and know where to grasp different fulcrums and how to exert their strength. According to the position and direction of the protrusion (depression) on the fulcrum, there are methods such as digging, pinching, pulling, grasping, holding and pushing. But don't stick to this, there are many ways to grasp the same fulcrum. For example, a fulcrum is a round knot with a small platform on it. Generally, you can put your fingers on it and pull it vertically, but in order to keep your body close to the rock wall, you can hold it tightly and pull it horizontally. For another example, sometimes two hands hold the same fulcrum, and the former hand can give up the best grip first and give it to the latter hand to avoid the trouble of changing hands. When grasping the fulcrum, especially the horizontal force, the position of the arm should be at the bottom, and the horizontal friction force should be increased by pulling downward; To make full use of the thumb, try to put the thumb on the fulcrum. For the common fulcrum of the transverse shallow groove, twist the thumb, buckle the ventral side of the finger into the flat groove, or place it horizontally on the back of the index finger and middle finger to increase strength. Finger strength is very important in rock climbing, which can usually be practiced by means of finger lying support, pull-ups, finger hanging pull-ups and lifting heavy objects. At present, some foreign experts have been able to reach the strength level of one-way aerobics. When climbing a long route, you can choose an easy position to take turns to rest. The rest area should be chosen where there is no elevation angle or the elevation angle is small and the fulcrum on the hand is large. When resting, keep your feet firmly on the fulcrum, keep your arms straight (it is difficult to rest when bending over), push your upper body backward, but your waist must be pushed forward, so that your lower body can cling to the rock wall and your weight can be pressed on your feet, reducing the burden on your arms, moving your fingers, shaking your hands to relax, and rubbing some magnesium powder to avoid slipping.
(3), the foot method:
In order to reach a certain level of rock climbing, you must learn to use your legs and feet. Legs have great bearing capacity, explosive force and endurance, so we should make full use of the strength of legs and feet in climbing. Rock climbing usually wears special climbing shoes. The soles of these shoes are hard rubber, the forefoot is slightly thick, the shoe body is tough leather, the toe is pointed, and the sole friction is large. Wearing these shoes can firmly support the weight of your whole body when you step on a fulcrum as narrow as less than one centimeter wide.
When buying this kind of shoes, everyone must pay attention to it, and don't buy them too big. As long as you can get in, your big toes are dug in and you can't straighten up. The tighter the shoes, the more stable the stress. Some players even have to put their feet in with the quick hooks on the back of their shoes during the competition. Beginners often buy shoes that are too big, and after a while, they will feel that their feet are loose and they can't step on them. There are only four places where one foot can touch the fulcrum: the shoes point forward; Inner edge of toe (big toe); The outer edge of the toe (toe with four toes) and the toe of the heel (mainly used to hang the foot when turning the eaves), and can only step into the width of about one finger, not too much, for example, put the whole sole on it to make the foot rotate and move left and right under load, and carry out actions such as changing feet and turning.
Changing feet is a basic technical action, which is often used in rock climbing. When some beginners change their feet, the front foot jumps hard and the back foot accurately falls on the original fulcrum of the front foot. It looks neat, but it's actually wrong, because on the one hand, it makes it harder for their fingers to eat, on the other hand, it causes physical imbalance, and more importantly, they can't change their feet like this when their feet are high. The correct way should be to ensure stability and not increase the burden on hands. Take right foot for left foot as an example. First lift your left foot above your right foot, and turn your right foot counterclockwise (looking down) with the right foot on the fulcrum as the axis. The fulcrum is empty on the left, and the weight is still on the right foot. The left foot cuts in from above, steps on it, and the right foot must be pulled out, and the weight will be transferred to the left foot. I'm used to it, just like putting oil on my feet. The right foot slides out from the fulcrum and the left foot slides in at the same time. The weight is always borne by the feet, and the hand is only used to adjust the balance. In addition to supporting weight, feet are often used to keep balance during climbing. Your foot doesn't have to step on the fulcrum all the time. Sometimes you have to hang one leg to adjust the position of your body's center of gravity, so that the weight can be stably transferred to the other foot.
(4), the center of gravity:
When climbing, you should know the position of your center of gravity and control the movement of your center of gravity flexibly. The main purpose of moving the center of gravity is to reduce the double load in action and maintain the balance of the body. At first, most of the movements were blind and I didn't know how to experience them. They just want to climb a liter. In fact, beginners had better not rush to climb high. They have to do translation exercises for a period of time first, that is, move horizontally from one side of the rock wall to the other, and experience basic skills such as center of gravity, balance and use of hands and feet.
In the most basic three-point fixation, when changing points with one hand, the center of gravity usually moves to the opposite side, so that the hand can be released easily without load before leaving the original fulcrum. When moving laterally, you should sink your center of gravity and let your hands hang on the fulcrum instead of pulling it. Under normal circumstances, you should step on your foot firmly, and then reach for the next fulcrum, instead of stepping on your foot in vain and pulling your body up by pulling it from your hand. Be sure to pay attention to the experience of lifting your heart with the strength of your legs. Only by moving up can you maintain balance. It is generally believed that the body should be as close to the rock wall as possible, which is correct. However, it is common for some experts to stay away from the rock wall. This is because their commonly used technical actions such as side pulling, hand and foot pointing, balancing the body and other preparatory actions all need a certain space with the rock wall, and only when the body rises, the body sticks to the surface of the rock wall. Usually, the adjustment of the center of gravity is mainly achieved by pushing and pulling the waist and buttocks and balancing the legs. The waist is the center of the human body, and its movement directly drives the movement of the center of gravity. Larger movements tend to form some beautiful movements. It is also common to stretch your legs horizontally and use the weight of your legs and feet to balance your body.
(5), side pull:
Side pull is a very important technical action, which can greatly save upper limb strength. Some originally difficult fulcrums can be easily reached, especially when it is excessively tilted. Its basic technical points are that the body leans towards the rock wall, the hands and feet on the opposite side of the body touch the rock wall, the other leg straightens to adjust the balance of the body, and the body is propped up by the strength of one leg to grasp the upper fulcrum. Take the left hand grasping the fulcrum as an example. The body faces to the left, the right leg bends and steps on the fulcrum, the left leg is used to maintain balance, the right leg pushes the fulcrum to exert force, and the right hand stretches out to grasp the upper branch. Due to people's physical condition, the knee is bent forward. If you are facing a rock wall, lifting your leg and stepping on it will inevitably push your body out. Changing your body to one side of the rock wall can solve this problem well. Your body is closer to the wall, transferring more weight to your feet, and you can use the height of your upper body to reach a higher fulcrum.
Pay attention to the following aspects when pulling sideways: when the body leans to the rock wall, the foot should step on the outside of the toe, not too much, so as to change the foot or turn around. If this point is higher, you can firmly grasp the fulcrum with your hands after leaning sideways, and your hips fall backwards to increase the space in front of your waist, lift your feet and step on them, then pull your center of gravity back to this foot with your hands, and keep your balance without stepping on the other leg. The fixed hand is only responsible for pulling your body towards the rock wall, and the body is completely lifted by one leg without your hand, which can save arm strength. Before exerting force, push the waist rib against the rock wall and transfer the weight to the feet. Don't let it loose, and pay special attention to climbing elevation. Lift your hands before applying force, and stick your ribs on the rock surface, otherwise your hands will be rowed from the bottom to the head after kicking, and your body will be pushed away from the middle rock wall, which will increase the burden of fixing your hands. After the first side pull, the second continuous side pull can be carried out according to the fulcrum position. After grasping firmly with both hands, turn around with the power leg as the axis, turn your face to the opposite side, cross the balance legs in front of the power leg, and step on a fulcrum on the outside of your toes. At this time, the balance leg becomes the power leg, and the hand becomes the fixed hand, and the lower side pull is done. During this period, you must step on your feet less, otherwise it is not easy to turn around. Side pull is mainly used when the elevation angle is too high and the fulcrum arrangement is close to a straight line.
(6), hands and feet and points:
When some hand points are close to the waist, the same foot steps on this point, the body presses up and forward, the center of gravity moves to the foot, the pedal is lifted, and one hand reaches out to grab the next fulcrum, during which the other hand is used to keep balance. There are few fulcrums on the rock wall where the hands and feet are at the same point, and the body rises greatly. When doing this action, there are the following points to pay attention to: if the fulcrum is high, turn your body slightly, face the fulcrum, and lean back against the wall to make room for leg lifts. Don't lift your legs directly to the rock wall. After stepping on the foot, the other foot and hand exert force to push the center of gravity forward and press it on the front foot. Lift your body with one leg, release the original fulcrum with the same hand, slide upward from the side, grab the next one, and fix the other hand to adjust your balance. The sibling technology is mainly used on lines with relatively few fulcrums.
(7), rhythm:
Rock climbing pays attention to the connection of rhythm, speed and movement. After each movement, the body has a certain inertia. If the last movement is in the right position, it is not a problem. At this time, you can use this inertia to directly impact the next fulcrum between two actions without stopping, so that you can often find some difficulties and pass unconsciously. Otherwise, if it is too stable, you must first move the center of gravity to adjust the balance before each action, and then exert your strength from the beginning, which will inevitably lead to excessive physical consumption. The movements should be consistent, but not sloppy, and all the details should be in place. You must use your feet when you rise, and you can't pull your ankles for faster. The hand is mainly used to keep balance and pull the body towards the rock wall. Don't move too fast, get used to it. Every movement is finished. Generally, pause for a moment with one or two movements, adjust the center of gravity, observe and choose the route, and quickly pass through the difficult area, which is easy to stabilize and adjust. Even if you are used to-pause-even if you are used to-pause and intermission, even if you are used to movements, your hands, feet and center of gravity should be adjusted in place, and your body balance should be restored as soon as possible after hitting the fulcrum. If necessary, find a good place to have a rest and relax your hands. When practicing, you can simply break down each movement into several steps, savor the details and analyze how to save your strength. If you are so familiar, you don't have to think about it at all when you actually climb, and you can make the correct action like a conditioned reflex.
(8), line planning:
Many fulcrums are installed on one side of the rock wall. Choosing different fulcrums can form multiple climbing routes. Everyone has different optimal routes according to their different physical conditions. When practicing, you can first look at other people's climbing routes, choose an optimal route according to your physical condition, exercise your eyesight, and discover and plan new routes. In the official competition, you can't look at other people's routes, you must plan it yourself. This requires a better understanding of your height, arm length, leg height and finger strength.
In practice, a rock wall, after it can reach the top, usually has endless use value. You can increase the difficulty by planning different routes, generally consciously limit yourself and give up some fulcrums, such as giving up some big points, deliberately bypassing a key point on the original route, or using only the fulcrums on one side or in the middle of the rock wall, or transitioning from one route to another.
Third, the quality practice of rock climbing
Rock climbing, like other sports, not only needs to master all kinds of skills, but also needs hard special physical training, especially needs to have a calm and good psychological quality.
In the process of rock climbing, the most basic technique is fixed fulcrum rock climbing. As far as this basic technology is concerned, combined with the different fulcrum conditions on the rock wall, the forces in the process of rock climbing can be roughly summarized as follows:
(1) Grasping-mainly refers to grasping the protruding part of the rock by hand;
(2) Digging-refers to digging edges, steps and cracks on the rock surface by hand;
(3) Pull-refers to the forearm sticking to the rock surface under the solid fulcrum in front and above, and forcibly pulling down to make the body climb;
(4) Support-refers to the use of step cracks or other terrain to make the body move up or left and right with the strength of hands, palms and arms;
(5) Push-mainly refers to the use of rocks or objects on the side and below to make the body move up or left and right with the strength of hands and arms;
(6) Pedal-refers to supporting the body with the pedal force of the plantar or toe of the skin flap to reduce the load on the upper limbs;
(7) Crossing-refers to using one's own flexibility to avoid difficulties and seek a fulcrum that is conducive to climbing;
(8) Hanging-mainly refers to hanging the protrusions or depressions on the rock surface with toes or heels to keep the body balanced or move;
(9) Treading-mainly refers to climbing the body by stepping on the big fulcrum under the front of the foot to reduce the load on the upper limbs;
(10) Friction refers to the temporary stability caused by the reasonable angle between the rock shoes and the rock wall, which makes the body move up or left and right.
Strength is the basic quality of rock climbers. How to distribute and use strength flexibly and harmoniously requires systematic special physical training to meet the requirements. Let's talk about the special physical fitness and common training methods of rock climbing.
The special physical qualities of climbers generally refer to:
(1) muscle strength, including the muscle strength of limbs, back and abdomen;
(2) Balance ability, that is, the ability to keep the body stable during exercise;
(3) Flexibility mainly refers to the range of motion and extension of muscles, membranes and ligaments;
(4) dexterity, that is, the coordination ability between brain, nerve and muscle;
(5) Respiratory and circulatory function, mainly reflected in the regulation of respiratory rhythm during exercise.
(A), the common methods of muscle strength training
Human bones are widely distributed, with about 434 pieces. This paper mainly introduces several muscle group strength training methods closely related to the strength quality of climbers.
(1) upper arm muscle-divided into anterior group and posterior group, the anterior group is mainly biceps brachii, that is, flexor muscle; The back group is mainly triceps brachii, and the front group flexors can generally be trained by bending down and pulling up with weight. The extensor dorsi adopts parallel bars to support arm flexion and extension, inverted arm flexion and extension and other methods. Extensor. Generally, you can train the flexors by bending down and pulling up with weight. The extensor dorsi adopts parallel bars to support arm flexion and extension, inverted arm flexion and extension and other methods. Extensor. Generally, you can train the flexors by bending down and pulling up with weight. The extensor dorsi adopts parallel bars to support arm flexion and extension, inverted arm flexion and extension and other methods.
(2) Forearm muscles-divided into anterior group muscles and posterior group muscles. The main functions of the anterior muscles are wrist flexion, finger flexion and forearm pronation, so methods such as anti-winding heavy hammer and anti-holding weight wrist flexion and extension can be adopted. The main functions of the posterior muscle group are wrist extension, finger extension and forearm external rotation, so methods such as winding a heavy hammer and holding the wrist with load can be adopted. Hand muscles-that is, finger strength, commonly used methods such as finger hanging, grasping, finger lying support, finger grasping heavy objects and so on.
(3) Pelvic muscles-divided into anterior muscles and posterior muscles. The muscles in the front group are mainly iliopsoas muscles, which are used to bend and rotate the thighs outward. Generally, methods such as hanging legs and sit-ups are used; The posterior muscles are mainly gluteus maximus, whose function is to stretch and pronate the thigh, generally through running back color, running slope, prone back and legs, etc.
(4) thigh muscles-divided into anterior and posterior muscles. The muscles in the front group are mainly quadriceps femoris, which is used to straighten the calf. Generally used for color weight-bearing squat, frog jump, duck step, etc. The back group is mainly biceps femoris, which is used for leg flexion and external rotation. Generally, methods such as load-bearing leg flexion and extension and back kick can be used.
5] Dorsal muscle-mainly refers to latissimus dorsi, whose function is to stretch, adducte and pronate the upper arm. Generally, pull-ups on the colored horizontal bar, climbing ropes, pulling stretchers backwards or sideways, etc. In addition, erector spinae and erector spinae are powerful spinal muscles. Generally, colored barbells (or kettle bells) and load-bearing bodies are used to bend forward.
(6) pectoralis major, which can bend, adducte and pronate the upper arm; General methods of arm flexion and extension, bench press barbell, push-ups and tensioners in colored parallel bars.
(7) Abdominal muscles-mainly refers to rectus abdominis, internal abdominis, oblique abdominis, transverse abdominis and quadratus lumborum, and its function is to make the spine bend forward (contraction on both sides), bend sideways (contraction on one side) and rotate the body.
It must be pointed out that after each strength training, special attention should be paid to muscle relaxation and stretching to prevent muscle stiffness and loss of elasticity.
(B), the common methods of balance ability training
The balance ability in the process of rock climbing is mainly reflected in the movement of body center of gravity and the choice of fulcrum. Therefore, for the training of balance ability, it is important to cultivate climbers' ability to judge time and space, improve their ability to determine orientation and direction, and cultivate their ability to control their body posture in different situations.
Commonly used training methods include: walking on the balance beam, crossing the wooden bridge, hurdling, stepping, skating, turning over the mat, crossing the cable bridge, climbing the ladder, tiger circle and so on.
(C), the common methods of flexibility training
There are two forms of developing flexibility: passive and active. The commonly used methods are: double exercises (such as shoulder pressing and back pressing), body bending forward, front leg press, kneeling and lying down, and body moving sideways. However, when using specific exercise methods, we should pay attention to priorities, circulate step by step, and maintain some postures for a certain time to promote the extension of ligaments.
Flexibility develops faster through training and is easy to achieve results; But it also disappeared quickly. So this is an opportunity for better flexibility. Pay attention to warm-up activities before training to prevent muscle and ligament strain.
(4) Common methods of sensitivity training
Sensitivity usually refers to the human body's ability to quickly coordinate, accurately and flexibly complete actions under various complex conditions. To develop sensitivity, we should use a variety of practice methods and change them frequently. If you use the same exercise method for a long time, it will form a dynamic stereotype, which is not conducive to the development of sensitivity. Sensitivity is very important for a climber, which can make the climber agile and coordinated in the process and give people a good feeling. There are also many common training methods, such as ball practice, various games, mat skills, jumping, swimming and various instrumental gymnastics.
(5) Common methods of respiratory and circulatory function training
The function of breathing special ring is mainly realized and improved through endurance training. However, it takes a long time to form endurance training load, and the heart rate is generally controlled at around 150 beats/min. In addition, when carrying out aerobic endurance training, we should pay great attention to the way of breathing, cultivate the ability to breathe through the nose, and coordinate the rhythm with the movement rhythm.
The methods of aerobic endurance training are: running with constant load, changing the ratio of load to rest, and the principle is that the rest time is short; When practicing with equal load, there is basically no rest in practice; In low-intensity interval training, the ratio of practice to rest is about 1: 1/2, and rest must also be positive.