Maybe you like camel lace-up coat, which is the basic model of cashmere coat. It is harmonious and friendly with pointed shoes of the same color.
Or prefer a slightly gentlemanly suit. Winter can be like ivanka, with a collarless off-the-shoulder coat with the same color bag skirt.
Or worry that you can't control other colors, you can wear nude colors from head to toe like Gigi, sexy and white.
But do you know how to make a good cashmere coat?
1、 ? Classified coarse cashmere
● ? Materials:
(1) wool
/kloc-coats under 0/000 yuan are rarely made of pure wool. Wool is usually cut from sheep by machine. Sheep are sheared more than once a year, which yields a lot.
? Sheep only produce wool, not wool. The so-called "sheep hair" is actually wool. Ordinary wool is rough and hard, and it will feel astringent when it slides on the double layer, and it will itch when it is worn next to the body.
But wool also has the same high quality and softness as ordinary cashmere.
(2) Cashmere
Cashmere coats cost at least a few thousand dollars, and tens of thousands of dollars is nothing new. So, let's talk about what cashmere is first.
Because Kashmir in Asia was once a distribution center for cashmere export to Europe in history, it is customary to call cashmere "Kashmir" internationally.
Cashmere Cashmere only refers to a close-fitting layer of cashmere on goats. Good cashmere only collects cashmere from goat's back, and a sheep can only get about 200 grams a year.
Cashmere production is extremely low, and its excellent quality and characteristics are called "soft gold". In the transaction, the price is determined in grams.
Its biggest feature is that it is hollow inside (air layer insulation means the same as double glass in the north), and its scales are small and smooth, so cashmere is light and smooth to the touch and can be worn.
The curl of cashmere is greater than wool, so cashmere products feel full and elastic, and will not shrink and deform after washing.
It is said that a pure cashmere sweater can be made by only five goats. The purchase price of cashmere sweater is about 4-5 times that of wool, which is why it is far more expensive than wool products.
In addition, according to national regulations, knitwear with cashmere content above 30% can be called cashmere textiles. If the cashmere content is more than 95%, you can write 100% cashmere on the label, which is pure cashmere.
(3) Small cashmere
? Cashmere is also divided into three grades, and the most luxurious is baby cashmere.
? It is famous for its extremely fine fibers, whose average diameter far exceeds that of traditional cashmere, and its soft texture comes from the bottom fluff of Hyrcus goats aged from three to twelve months.
? A sheep can only brush its hair once in its infancy. Note: Only cashmere obtained once can be called cashmere, and the cashmere quantity of each lamb is only about 30 grams.
? It takes about 58 lambs to make such a baby cashmere coat, so you can imagine how expensive it is.
? The spinning of each piece of cashmere fabric has been tested and strictly screened by high-power microscope and other precision instruments.
? Then, there will be baby cashmere similar to baby skin, which will eventually become modern and elegant coats and scarves. Such a coat will sell for more than 5w.
● ? Collect wool
? After the herdsmen comb and collect the wool with a brush, it will take two weeks to sort out the softest wool close to sheepskin, which is the real cashmere. ?
2. Production
? The sorted coarse cashmere will be sent to factories all over the world to be processed into stronger two-ply yarn, and then woven into cashmere sweaters or fabrics needed for cashmere coats.
? Everyone must be familiar with the double-sided coats that have been popular in recent years, and even the grass has grown. This type of coat largely reflects the difference in coat workmanship.
? The value of a double-sided coat is that it feels super good. Two thin layers of cashmere fabric are sewn together, but no seam can be found.
? The process of making cashmere coats is extremely complicated. Take Max Mara as an example. The birth of a 10 180 1 coat takes nearly three hours, and it needs to go through 73 processes such as weaving, cloth inspection, printing, cutting, board inspection, hand sewing and ironing.
? And the handmade cashmere coat sewn by experienced craftsmen, not only the production time can not be underestimated, but also the price will double.
(1) cloth inspection
? Put the fabric on the fabric inspection machine, and observe whether there are any defects such as color difference and holes in the fabric point by point through illumination to ensure that each fabric has no defects.
(2) cutting
? Ordinary coats are first cut according to the pattern with an electric knife, and then accurately cut with a gantry knife. Rough cutting and fine cutting make the pattern more accurate, and the edges of the pieces are clean and tidy.
(3) Clothing pieces
? Check them one by one to make sure there are no defects, and then put them into the lining machine for high temperature setting. The size of the suit is stable and will not be easily changed due to the environment; Check the versions one by one, and check with the original version to ensure that the versions are consistent.
(4) Running circuit
? Confirm the kerf distance through the positioning line to ensure the width and width of manual kerf are consistent. Ensure that the fabric is smooth and will not be damaged during cutting.
? This is a very important process, which usually requires skilled workers with many years of operating experience to check it.
(5) Positioning
? Use a professional machine to cut the double-sided woolen cloth across the positioning line, and gently cut off the multi-section yarn connecting the two layers of fabric.
(6) Adhesive lining
? All the cut fabrics need lining sewing, and the double-sided cashmere fabrics are fixed by high temperature pressing. High-end products basically use imported lining, which is 10 times the price of domestic lining.
(7) Manual operation
? Exquisite stitches are used to hide stitches. Within 3 cm, there are 1 1 needles, which are very dense and flat, the number of needles is even, the needle spacing is equal, and the strength of the stay wire should be even.
? Pure hand sewing requires very high technology for workers. Even a senior seamstress with many years of sewing experience can sew at most one piece every two days on average.
? In order to ensure the consistency of each sewing process, the speed of manual sewing by workers will be recorded by computer every time to ensure the rhythm of sewing speed.
(8) ironing
? After hand-sewing, the semi-finished products are inspected first, and then ironed to present the basic outline of the whole garment, which makes the fabric smoother and more delicate and facilitates the accurate positioning of the next auxiliary material feeding process.
(9) Inspection of auxiliary materials
? Nailing buttons, opening button holes, making buttons and fixing buttons. After all the processes of clothing production are completed, the clothing will be inspected again by a special person.
(10) test
? Ready-made clothes that pass the inspection can be delivered.
The process of making double-layer fabric coat takes five times more time than ordinary coat. Among them, the manual sewing by craftsmen will undoubtedly double the price of pure cashmere coats.
A good cashmere coat
It's worth spending time and energy.
What about you?
More valuable.
& ltEND & gt