Vision: Make sustainable development a habit.
Values: from "the best enterprise in the world" to "the enterprise that makes the world a better place"
National is the world's.
Recently, Li Ning, the sportswear brand of "New Country Tide", boarded the Paris Men's Wear Week in Fall/Winter 2020 and invited Jackie Chan's "cross-border endorsement" Li Ning to jointly sign the sale, which once again attracted global attention. With Li Ning's frequent appearances in major fashion weeks around the world in recent years, she changed the image of a slightly rustic "middle-aged brand" and swept young consumers with the wind of "national tide".
20 18 is called "the first year of national tide". In this year, domestic brands gradually explored their own transformation path. Li Ning, Warrior and Leap embrace the international tide culture with open arms, innovate the original brand design, and create a trend sports style with China characteristics; Brands such as White Rabbit, Want Want and the Forbidden City have also gained a big wave of hot topics from the seemingly incredible cross-border joint names.
As the "standard-bearer" of the national fashion world, Li Ning appeared in the 20 18 Fall/Winter New York Fashion Week with a retro and avant-garde new look, and made various innovative designs on the classic "Scrambled Eggs with Tomatoes" of the China team. The four Chinese characters "China Li Ning" were printed on various articles with high profile, the sportswear with a sense of the times was transformed into the most popular fashion, and Li Ning's own classic gymnastics movements were printed on T-shirts to pay tribute to the glory and confidence of the Olympic Games.
So, what is the national tide? Some people say that the national tide is the product of the collision between China culture and international trends, and it enters the new consumer market with the "entanglement" and high-profile personality of young people in China. It is also said that "National Tide" is a fashion trend originating from China, and elements with China characteristics have been widely used in various original designs, gradually forming a trend style based on China culture and showing personality and attitude towards life.
From domestic fashion brands to "taking the country as the trend", the combination of "domestic brands+fashion style+China culture" has produced a wonderful market chemical reaction. The national tide has gradually become the original trend of China, which bears the changes of China's culture and social thoughts, and is developing towards a more popular consumer market.
In fact, the initial embryonic form of the national tide appeared in 2000-20 10, and it first entered the market in the form of "China brand+trend style". The most famous brands are clothing, NPC and other fashion brands founded by stars. This kind of domestic street brands are mainly based on European and American street culture in design style. Although it was sought after by many hipsters, it was still a big consumption in the market at that time.
In 20 17, the development of the national tide turned for the better, and the "beauty crowd" of hip-hop culture and street culture entered the country. The consumer demand for trendy brands in the market has greatly increased, which has pointed out a "bright road" for the transformation of established national brands.
On the first day of Tmall 6 18 launch in 2020, the turnover of over 37,000 China brands increased by at least 100% compared with last year. The turnover of domestic brands such as Huawei, Gree, Xiaomi and Glory exceeded 654.38 billion yuan in a short period of time, which is full of the flavor of "domestic products are in power". The expansion of consumption capacity, the growth of consumer demand and the diversification of marketing channels have given birth to new consumption-people's consumption is no longer limited to meeting the needs of life, but also pursuing the satisfaction of lifestyle and cultural attitude.
Coupled with the national tide, its "sweetness" is also reflected in Li Ning's financial report. According to the data, since the continuous decline of revenue in 20 14, the revenue growth rate of Li Ning Company has remained above double digits for many years. 20 105100 billion yuan, Li Ning's operating income broke the historical record of 9.48 billion yuan in 20 10, while in 2010.
In 20 19, Li Ning's revenue reached1387 billion yuan, a year-on-year increase of 32.0%. The profit attributable to equity holders was 65.438+0.499 billion yuan, up to 654.38+0.09.6% year-on-year. In February 20 19, at the third quarter 2020 franchisee ordering meeting held by Li Ning, orders for brand products of Li Ning (excluding China Li Ning and Li Ning YOUNG) recorded an annual growth of 10%-20%. Overall, the promotion of sales discount and the optimization of label cost rate made Li Ning's gross profit margin increase by 65,438+0.0 percentage points last year.
On Yang Dajun, Founder and Founder of Sustainable Fashion China
As the earliest sports brand in China, Li Ning witnessed the development history of the whole sports industry in China. As the only famous athlete, Li Ning successfully built his own brand, and his whole development is a history of sports development in China. Li Ning, the earliest sports brand agent in China, also had Double Star and Conway in the same period, but the latter two have basically withdrawn from the market now. 36 1, Xtep and Anta are all sports brands born in the second stage. Li Ning also faces some problems in the process of witnessing the development history of sporting goods in China. This is also a problem that all brand operators will face-brand aging.
China market has gone through two stages. In the first stage, the China market was in short supply. At this point, China's A-share listed companies have basically completed the original accumulation at this stage, which is very important. In the second stage, the supply in China market exceeded demand. In the stage of overcapacity, this trend is particularly obvious from 20 10. In the process of overcapacity, it has also brought some other changes to people, such as the rise of e-commerce Internet and the renewal iteration of consumers. After 20 10, the mainstream consumer groups in China changed from individuals who were the mainstream consumer groups in 1960s, 1970s and early 1980s to young consumer groups who were mainly born in 1980s and 1990s, and their consumption values and consciousness changed greatly.
This means that Li Ning, who rose before 20 10, will face the aging of the mainstream consumer groups of "post-60 s", "post-70 s" and "post-80 s" and gradually withdraw from mainstream consumption. This requires brand research on how to attract the love of young consumers. In this process, Li Ning also realized this problem and adopted various methods. These include internationalization and de-localization, as well as strengthening product research and development, setting up studios in the United States, Germany and other places to improve the internationalization of products.
In fact, in this process, Li Ning experienced a painful process, that is, the consumer renewal iteration brought about by brand aging. At the same time, because of the past channel operation agency model and the inadaptability to the Internet, after 20 10, Li Ning has been trying to transform in various ways to grasp the market demand. During this period, Li Ning suffered tremendous pressure, such as declining performance, shrinking market and losing consumers. , causing the whole company to be heavily in debt.
But after 20 15, that is, between 20 16 and 20 17, Li Ning seized the opportunity. This is the trend line of sports brands. In fact, the trend of sports brands is not only a concept, but also brands such as Nike and Adidas are gradually receiving the trend market from the professional sports market. Many consumers not only need its function and professionalism, but also need more popular elements in the product.
The so-called popularity is actually a social phenomenon and problem. Through the designer's creativity, it finally penetrates into the product and expresses the knowledge. This kind of knowledge will form a trend of centralized consumption in a short time, which we call popularization. Li Ning seized this opportunity to endow products with popular and street elements, which is a very good grasp.
Li Ning's success lies in that it doesn't look for the bright spots of the trend from all over the world like Nike and Adidas. Because Li Ning is a local brand after all, Li Ning has properly grasped the consumption trend of Chinese people. What is the consumption trend? After 20 10, with China becoming the second largest economic entity in the world, China's rapid economic growth, rapid expansion of global influence, and the rise of local national culture and populism of China consumers, many young people began to pay attention to China's own values, including expressing their confidence through China's own culture. At this special moment, Li Ning properly grasped the focus of society, and combined this focus with the trend culture, plus his own influence. Therefore, Li Ning deserves to lead the national consumption trend in China.
Li Ning can guide the consumption trend. Are other brands ok? I want to emphasize that not every brand has the opportunity to lead the trend. Because Li Ning was the cultural symbol of China in 1980s and early 1990s. At that time, China women's volleyball team and Li Ning's five consecutive championships attracted great attention. China's greatest influence in the world at that time was not because of the size of our economy, nor because of our global influence, but because of the glory and sense of accomplishment brought by our athletes. Li Ning had a great influence on sports, history and China in China.
Therefore, the biggest difference between Li Ning brand itself and Fujian brand lies in the brand connotation. The sports miracle created by Li Ning, including its influence on the culture of a generation of China people, has always remained in the hearts of consumers in China, but Li Ning did not bring this potential into play in the later development process. When Li Ning realized this problem, combined with his own content and influence, combined with the tide brand, he led the national tide to prevail in China, and Li Ning also deserved this trait and influence.
In fact, in addition to Li Ning, brands such as Laoganma and Taiping Bird are also playing the national tide, but we should be aware of a problem: the national tide is not a popular phenomenon, not a trend driven by a certain enterprise, but a social phenomenon and social problem that needs to be captured and discovered by enterprises and expressed through creativity and products. This form of expression includes pop music, culture and art, etc. But relative to our fashion industry, we should reflect the value of faith and creativity itself.
So, is every brand suitable for taking the national trend route? How should different brands combine with brand genes when taking the national trend route? What I want to emphasize is that it is not necessary for every brand to imitate the national trend line. National trend is a fashion, and this fashion is a consumption trend. Any brand retains its own personality, DNA and style elements while showing itself to the society. In the words of the Internet, this is called drainage-it is very important to meet the needs of consumers at a very small cost and get great feedback from the market. Therefore, when different brands choose the national trend, they must consider how to integrate perfectly according to the characteristics of their own brands.
What inspiration and significance does the national tide have for the fashion industry? Philip Kohler: "Excellent enterprises meet the demand and excellent enterprises create the market". Therefore, the enterprise that creates market demand is a great enterprise, but he must first do one thing well-how to express social focus through creativity and products. When designing products, many of our enterprises blindly judge the consumption of products according to the popular information and big data given by various popular organizations, which is not wrong. But this way can only grasp the market demand and become an excellent enterprise. To become a great enterprise, we need to guide the trend, drive market consumption, create market demand, express social problems and actively participate. When social problems appear in the market, consumers will show them in various forms. If our enterprise can integrate this social concern into its own corporate culture and daily life, then it is possible for us to guide this enterprise from an excellent enterprise to a great one. Therefore, China's future fashion industry needs more such great enterprises. However, great enterprises must have beliefs and value demands.
After 20 or 30 years of development, Chinese enterprises have completed primitive accumulation and created brand awareness, market share and market position among consumers. Fashion enterprises in China need to think about how to cut in the next round of competition, find a new growth platform, and build more great enterprises. There is no shortage of excellent fashion enterprises in China, but great enterprises, such as Dior, Hermes, Nike and Adidas.
In the next 5- 10 years, China's fashion industry will face the crisis brought by the epidemic, from economic confrontation to western political system confrontation on a global scale. This actually provides opportunities for our garment enterprises in China. Because in this process of confrontation, China first needs an internal circular economy, as the Greeks said. Internal circular economy is to tap the internal consumption potential of China. In this process, many international brands and enterprises, under the influence of the epidemic, especially in Europe and North China, where the epidemic is uncertain and the market is already recovering, will create more American element cultures to attract and please the future China consumer groups. For local enterprises in China, we should see that the crisis is also a business opportunity. In this process, if we can change our thinking, change our perspective and consider the future development of enterprises with higher thinking, many great enterprises will appear in China in the near future.
So, what kind of enterprise is the future type? It is to build a profitable enterprise with a sustainable attitude. Future-oriented enterprises must be able to fulfill their social responsibilities while making money. This is a great enterprise. He can express his views on society through his own field and take action in the current environment, politics and humanities. Only such enterprises can influence the future, consumers and the fashion history of China. Therefore, the national tide is a beginning.
And how long can the national tide wind last? This is an important question. I think the national trend still has a long way to go. But at this stage, the expression of this national tide has begun to decline. In the future, there will be more in-depth, more sustained and more intrinsic expressions to express China elements, which will take 5- 10 years. Because the confrontation between China and the United States has now developed into a political confrontation, and will develop into a confrontation between eastern culture and western culture in the future.
In this process of confrontation, it is actually a problem that China must face in the process of rising. What's the problem? Embraced and accepted by global culture. This kind of acceptance is not forbearance and concession, but going on resolutely. China's influence is definitely not the cultural influence achieved by western modesty and respect, but must be the result of persistence. Because culture is inseparable from national and social phenomena. For China enterprises, I think that in the next 5- 10 years, if fashion enterprises can grasp the social focus of China cultural elements, China brand, China manufacturing and even China phenomenon, then the rise of China will also be the rise of China fashion industry and China fashion brand.
However, it should be noted that we should build a profitable enterprise and brand from a sustainable perspective, because this is what the future looks like. China's future needs not only China's profound DNA and China cultural elements, but also global knowledge. Only in this way can we achieve globalization.
China's fashion can't be confined to China. Only when China fashion stands firm in the world and reaches a global consensus can China fashion go global.
This is equivalent to Japan today. In the sixties and seventies, Japan also imitated and followed European and American cultures and established today's Japanese fashion. By the end of 1980s and 1990s, Japan began to realize that if local industries want to survive, it is not deliberate imitation or transcendental imitation, but how to realize globalization on the basis of Japanese cultural values. Whether you see Muji or Uniqlo today, whether they open their stores to any country in the world or not, you can see that they all have strong Japanese consumption values and Japanese cultural thinking. There is a good saying: "what is national is the world's." Therefore, we should learn from it.
Looking at the development of global fashion industry, we will find that every arrival of cultural thoughts will drive the development of some brands. For example, feminism prevailed after World War II. We can see that Chanel's understanding of feminism has influenced a generation through its design, and feminism gradually began to gain greater recognition: he made women wear bikinis and miniskirts, and made many women's rights and interests show their confidence and the importance of women in society through fashion. In addition, the rapid development of population peak and social stability brought by the United States after World War II gave birth to punk and sexual liberation culture, and also promoted the rise of many American brands. Such as D&, Banana Republic, D & ampy, Ralph Lauren, etc. They are all symbols of the rise of the United States in a specific era.
So far, we hope that the fashion industry and enterprises in China can look at this opportunity from a higher level, seize this opportunity, and give birth to a number of great enterprises and brands, which can become historical symbols and cultural heritage brands left by China in every historical stage. Therefore, the crisis is also a business opportunity.
I'm not sure which elements will become another starting point of the national tide in the future, but what is certain is that consumption that can show social phenomena and show social phenomena and problems through attitude will easily resonate with consumers, which will become a trend and consumption trend. Our company can't just look at big data and make products that the market can consume, but also depends on how we assume social responsibility.
If we can consider problems from the perspective of social responsibility and reshape the vision and values of enterprises, we can always grasp the pulse of every social change, social progress and social ideological movement and make enterprises become great enterprises. A great enterprise is an enterprise with faith, responsibility and consideration of sustainable long-term development. Therefore, what kind of height and angle we stand on to think about the problem often determines what kind of enterprise our enterprise can become.
Author: Yang Dajun, founder and founder of sustainable fashion China.