First, the origin of the hat:
Hats are evolved from towels. The Yu Pei written by Liang and Chen Jiangu in the Southern Dynasties reads: "Towels are for wearing. This is wiping things, and later generations will wipe them on their heads. " In ancient times, towels were used to wrap the head. Women use it as a "towel" and men use it as a "handkerchief". In the last week, there appeared a kind of "handkerchief" that can be used by both men and women. It turned out to be a cloth that people put around their necks to wipe sweat when they were working, which is equivalent to a towel now. Because of the wind, sand and sand of nature, human beings work in the fields.
Generally speaking, the origin and development of hats are based on the process of human understanding, conquering and transforming nature. In a sense, the influence of natural and social conditions, such as climate, environment, religious beliefs, local customs and customs, objectively promoted the development of hats.
Two. The development of hats:
● In the Paleolithic Age, "clothes were hairy and fur was worn".
The earliest hat styles that can be seen in China are often found in some pottery painting relics. There is a saying in the Book of Yu Fu Zhi in the later Han Dynasty: "In ancient times, people wore clothes and fur, but now they wear fur", that is, they sewed fur on their heads to avoid sandstorms and snowstorms. Patterns on painted pottery pots with human faces unearthed in Anbanpo, Xi 'an and Jiangzhai, Lintong
The history of Xia, Shang and Zhou dynasties is called "three generations", which is a relatively complete stage from the perspective of the rise, development and prosperity of slavery society. In summer and business, crowns and crowns were used to express etiquette, and the Zhou Dynasty became more and more meticulous and perfect.
Xia Dynasty was the first slave country in China, and its central areas were in the west of Henan and the south of Shanxi. The Analects of Confucius said: "Confucius said: I am inseparable from myself, and poor clothes make me beautiful." Crown is a ceremonial first dress in ancient times. This sentence means that Xia doesn't pay attention to ordinary costumes, but he designs gorgeous and elegant costumes to worship heaven and earth, ancestors and social events.
Shang Dynasty was the stage of consolidation and development of slavery society. Social productive forces and culture have made great progress. A group of jade carving figures unearthed from Muhao Tomb in Yinxu, Anyang, Henan Province, can see three or four different hat styles:
The Zhou Dynasty was the period when all aspects of slave society reached the peak, and clothing and textiles developed greatly. People have gained more experience in the exploration of life, and traces of painting have appeared on linen. Thin paint can be made into waterproof and rainproof paint cloth, which can be used to make hats, shoes, awnings or moisture-proof mats.
China people attach great importance to the symbolic role of the crown. Many formal dresses are named after the names they wear, and this concept of aesthetics and values has been passed down from generation to generation. What kind of hat to wear, what kind of clothes to wear, and it is customary to have a crown and clothes of the same color. Champions and leaders in modern vocabulary are the theme center and key decorative part of ancient clothing style.
Uniforms are common clothes after coronation. The son of heaven and the maharaja were crowned at the age of twelve, and Shu Ren was crowned at the age of twenty.
There are three types of secrets: top secret, skin secret and closed secret. Civil servants wear crowns, a kind of black and red hat ornaments, and officers wear leather. This hat is made of ivory suede. Jin system was changed to melanin clothes, Sui and Tang dynasties had black leather clothes, and then changed to black gauze, which was used until the Ming Dynasty.
Some scholars believe that the crown is probably a form of hat hoop, and a leather crown is added when there is war. According to the report, the person wearing this hat wears a black cloth on his upper body and a plain dress on his lower body. In ancient times, it was said that the guards should not call Marco before liberation. It can be seen that, except for Juege, most of the crowns were worn by military commanders and military attache.
During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, "the rich were self-sufficient"
During the Warring States Period, with the decline of the prestige of the Zhou emperors, China became a powerful vassal state in the early period.
One after another, "reforms" not only "reward agriculture and develop Sang Ma", but also vigorously develop sharp armor and soldiers to safeguard political power. In order to resist the killing of enemy weapons more effectively, human beings first learned to "defend the enemy's armor", thus forming the vest armor and rattan hat woven by kudzu vine in the early days.
Due to the needs of war, countries have reformed and reformed. In 307 BC, King Wuling of Zhao (325-299 BC) carried out a famous military reform: abandoning chariots and taking the lead in establishing cavalry corps. The invincible cavalry not only frightened the Hu people, but also became a powerful opponent for hegemony with Qin. This reform was called "Khufu riding and shooting" by later generations. The specific requirements for hat modeling are as follows: the crown adopts the northern mink crown, and the mink can also be decorated to keep warm on the basis of the original fur. This big crown was called Wuyi big crown in Han Dynasty. According to records, the evolution of its shape was based on the basket shape at first, and then added warmth, but there was no physical object to test in the Spring and Autumn Period. In the later Han dynasty, the sable tail was inserted as a crown ornament, and then the cicada was attached with gold, which was called the sable Zen crown.
From scarf to crown in Qin and Han Dynasties
Qin Terracotta Warriors and Horses not only lamented the neatness of armor for the world, but also made today's hair dish-shaped because of its numerous knotted hairstyles.
Experts lag far behind.
Due to years of war and plunder of Qin, the social economy in the early Han Dynasty almost completely collapsed. After the "rule of Wenjing", it was not until Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty that a comprehensive and powerful Han empire began to rise in China. On a large number of stone reliefs, brick reliefs and colorful murals, there are a large number of single riders and ceremonial chariots and horses.
Coronation is a ceremonial crown worn by the courtiers of ancient emperors when attending sacrificial ceremonies. There is a front ring at the top of the crown.
A square and rectangular crown plate with "crown" hanging in front and back.
Long crown in Han dynasty,
After Qin unified all countries, there were also unified arrangements for the crowns of all countries. For example, after the Qin dynasty destroyed Chu, it was given an imperial costume wearing a monarch's crown. Qin gave the crown (Zhao Huiwen's crown) to the near minister, and Han continued to wear it with the military attache, which was called Wu Mi's Grand Crown. Another example is the Tian Tong Crown (iron beam covered with exquisite silk). When the emperor wears it, it is often marked with 12 beam, and the order of ministers is 32 1 ....
In ancient times, when men 18 ~ 20 years old, they wore crowns or scarves. It was recorded that crowns and scarves tied their hair without wrapping it. For example, the hair styles of jade people and Qin figurines in Shang Dynasty did not develop into hat-hoop towels until the Western Han Dynasty, and the flat-topped towels were called "flat towels"; It is called "Jiege" because it is shaped like a sharp roof. Towels are used by officials' strict actions and civilian deacons who cannot wear crowns because of their low status. High-ranking officials also wear scarves first and then crown them. There is a saying that "writers have long ears and fighters have short ears", and scarves were widely used in the Han Dynasty. Generally, civil servants wearing virtuous crowns need linings, while military officers wearing big crowns can only use flat tops.
Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties "tired of wearing a scarf as elegance"
The crowns and hats in Wei and Jin Dynasties are very distinctive. Towels were still popular in the Han Dynasty, but they were slightly different from those in the Han Dynasty.
When the height increases and the volume gradually decreases to the top, it is called "flat top" or "small crown". The small crown can be used from top to bottom, and can be used from north to south. If you put a cage towel on this crown, it will become a "cage crown". Cage crown was the main crown ornament in Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, which was used by both men and women. Because it is made of black lacquer spun yarn, it is also called "lacquer sarong crown".
At the end of the Eastern Han Dynasty, princes and celebrities "regarded a towel as elegant", which was quite a trend of refusing the crown and the public. During the Jin and Wei Dynasties, scarves were popular mainly because they were suitable for people at all levels, simple and easy to match colors with clothes. In the era of pursuing elegance and refinement, there is also a taste of rebellion against the ethical code system. At this time, due to the advocacy of the dynasty, there were various styles of towels and various names, such as folded corner towel, nylon corner towel, nylon towel, kudzu towel and so on.
During the Jin and Southern and Northern Dynasties, the records of concubines' hats were slightly different.
The first dress in Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties was "Wotou".
Wotou is a kind of towel and silk in Baotou. This kind of clothing was popular as early as the Eastern Han Dynasty, and it was wrapped in towels after the Wei and Jin Dynasties.
Popularization has become the main first suit for men. It was easier to hoe in the Sui Dynasty, but in the early Tang Dynasty, the towel was low and the top was mostly flat, which was a "flat-headed" towel. Since then, the number of towels has gradually increased, and there have been "king-style" towels, "official-style" towels and "Kaiyuan-style" towels. There are soft-footed hoes and hard-footed hoes. Besides steamed bread, there are gauze hats and so on.
Wotou was the main first dress of Han men in Tang and Song Dynasties. According to records, during the period of Emperor Wu of the Northern Zhou Dynasty, the towels of the Han and Wei Dynasties were modified and processed, and four corners were added. The difference between hoes and towels is that these belts are an important factor. When wearing, the first two belts hang down behind the head, and the folded belt makes the twists and turns attached to it hang down behind the head, so it is called "folded towel". However, the back of the head hangs down like two streamers. In the mid-Tang Dynasty, the drooping locks gradually became shorter, and there was a tendency that the two corners were inserted upward into the back of the head. By the late Tang dynasty, the feet were slightly round, forming hard wings.
According to records, the Emperor of Sui Dynasty only wore a crown, and Emperor Wendi of Sui Dynasty heard that Chao was wearing an ochre yellow silk robe, wearing a black hat and folding a towel. The picture (2 1) is an ancient emperor picture painted by Yu Ling in Tang Dynasty. The costumes of Emperor Yang Di of the Sui Dynasty and his entourage were basically the same as those of the previous dynasty. This is the earliest and most complete coronation ceremony we can see.
In addition to the title, the crown ornaments of the Tang emperor also include Tian Tongguan and Yongshan Guan. The crown ornaments of civilians are martial arts clothes and leather clothes; Black medium, flat towels and their work.
Clothing in Sui and Tang Dynasties is the most brilliant page in the history of clothing in China. The complex collocation of women's hair accessories and costumes is also rare in China feudal society.
Curtain hats in the Tang Dynasty and hats in Xinjiang were designed for women to cover their faces and prevent passers-by from peeping. This kind of hat is mostly made of rattan mats or felt hats, pasted with silk, and some are coated with tung oil for rain protection, and then decorated with soap gauze on the brim to make it droop to cover the face or whole body.
The style of curtain caps was very popular at that time. Its function is only to keep out the wind and dust, which is completely different from the original purpose of "avoiding people and peeping". The custom of wearing a curtain cap began in the Sui Dynasty. When women go out, they must use veils on their heads and whole bodies. Because of his superficial appearance, he was initially intervened by the court and was considered "too rash and deeply disrespectful." From Figure (24), the image of tri-colored pottery figurines in Tang Dynasty, and the shapes of soft pockets and hard hats have gradually become fashionable.
In the Song, Liao, Jin and Yuan Dynasties, simplicity was beauty.
In Song Dynasty, officials were crowned and civilians wore shawls.
Tian Tongguan in Song Dynasty was an important costume of Emperor Tiandi. Tian Tongguan, also known as cirrus crown, has 24 beams.
Blue for external use, cinnabar for internal use, golden thread mountain in front of the crown, decorated with cicada-shaped gold or tortoise shell. When wearing this crown, wear a crimson gauze robe woven into Yunlong pattern.
There are three kinds of crowns worn by baiguan in royal clothes: one is the crown of Jinxian, painted with honeysuckle, and the horizontal crown made of rhinoceros tortoise shell, and the white pen is drawn on the crown. According to the number of beams on the crown, there are five beams, four beams, three beams and two beams. Secondly, the The Story Of Diu Sim hat is also called a cage towel, with silver flowers in front and golden cicadas attached to it. After the Southern Song Dynasty, it was changed to hawksbill cicada, with three small cicadas on the left and right, and a sable tail on the left, which was worn by princes and princes. The third is the promotion crown after promotion.
Wotou was the first garment widely used by people in Song Dynasty. By this time, it has developed into a hard foot, and there are many styles. At the beginning, the feet are straight and short, and after the middle period, the feet are extended and long. Servants and musicians with low tolerance or status are often used to crossing their legs or bending their legs. By the Song Dynasty, Shantou had completely broken away from the form of towels and handkerchiefs and became a kind of hat. In the Sui and Tang Dynasties, steamed bread was made of black gauze. In the Song Dynasty, it was not only brightly colored, but also decorated with gold ornaments and silk flower.
There are two kinds of headdresses for women in Song Dynasty, one is the crown worn on the head; One is to comb the bun into different shapes, and then set it with all kinds of jewels. Crown, there are white horn crown, pearl crown, corolla, high crown, group crown and so on.
White horn crown: as big as three feet, some shoulder-length, and the comb is one foot long. Later, it was stipulated that the crown should not exceed one foot in width and four inches in height. In the Song Dynasty, aristocratic women used pearl crowns, which were decorated with pearls or between hairpin, hairpin and bud. At that time, women also advocated the custom of inserting crowns with high crowns. The corolla is made of silk or tortoise shell and can be decorated with peaches, apricots, chrysanthemums and plums. Or put these flowers together to make a crown. Not only women like to wear it, but also men like to wear it. In addition, women should wear curtain hats when they go out riding. Just stick a full-width yarn on the seat cap and hang it down to cover your face. There is also a kind of hijab, which has the same function as the curtain cap, and often blocks the upper body with a square five-foot purple silk to block the dust. Another function of the headscarf is to cover the woman's head on the wedding day, and it will be uncovered by the man after the ceremony.
The crown scarf system in Liao Dynasty was very strict.
The crown scarf system in Liao dynasty was very strict, and small and medium-sized officials and ordinary people could only show their heads, even in winter.
It is the same. Men's hair styles are mostly stubble hair, generally shaving the hair on the top of their heads, leaving only a small amount of hair on their temples or foreheads as decoration; Some have a row of short hair on their foreheads; Some hang their hair in their ears; There are also left and right hair trimmed into various shapes and then hung to the shoulders.
Jin Dynasty usually wore a small hat or a towel wrapped in soap.
The dress system of Jin Dynasty is: one product wears seven and The Story Of Diu Sim towels, the other seven and two, the third six and four five.
Beam, four beams, five grades, three beams, six grades, seven grades. An ordinary suit usually wears a small hat or a towel wrapped in soap.
The hat ornaments of the Yuan Dynasty combined Mongolian and Chinese cultures.
The emperor's hat ornaments are divided into two seasons: winter wearing a warm hat and summer wearing a golden phoenix and cymbals; There is also a bead cirrus cloud crown.
Guards, attendants and servants often wear hoes, including phoenix wings, horns, flower horns and cranes. I also wear a turban, a bachelor's hat, a brocade hat, flat shoulders and a trowel.
In the Yuan Dynasty, women's costumes were mainly robes, and the materials were mostly mink and warm hats. Generally, women with higher status wear ancient crowns. Ordinary women wear fur hats.
The Ming Dynasty tried to restore the Han costume culture.
1. Men's headscarves and hats in the Ming Dynasty
After the Ming Dynasty seized power from Mongolian aristocrats, it attached great importance to rectifying and restoring etiquette. Discarded element
Korea's clothing system, and according to the customs of the Han people, re-established the clothing system.
Emperors usually wear robes and crowns in ceremonies such as offering sacrifices to heaven and earth, ancestral temples, enthronement, conferring titles, Zheng Dan and winter solstice. In the first year of Hongwu, it was stipulated that Daitian Tongguan should be worn. In the twenty-sixth year of Hongwu, it was stipulated to wear fur coats and fur hats (made in Shameng, with twelve seams on the front and back); When the emperor personally signs or dispatches his generals, he wears clothes made of military clothes and crimson yarn (the top is pointed and the twelve seams are decorated with colorful jade); The emperor often wears wings and a good crown.
When the emperor lived in Yanju, he wore clothes, leather clothes and black gauze, which were divided into twelve braids, each with gold thread, and there were four mountains behind him.
In the Ming Dynasty, the official dress was both civil and military, wearing a The Story Of Diu Sim cage towel and a pass. Royal robes are crowned according to grades, and grades are distinguished by the number of beams on the crown. There are seven beams and one product, six beams and two products, five beams and three products, four beams and four products, three beams and five products, two beams and six products, and one beam and eight products. The champion wears double beams and a crown. Gong, Hou, Bo, Xu, and the story of losing Xin's cage towel, the cage towel is square, and there are golden cicadas or hawksbill on both sides. There is also a pheasant tail (pheasant hair) on the duke's crown. All officials below the first level only wear A Liang tube, not The Story Of Diu Sim cage towel. At the top of Guan Liang, there is usually a curved bamboo pen with a velvet brush at the top. This is called "Li Pen", which actually imitates the "Bibi" system in Han Dynasty.
On Xie Enri, Jinshi wore a dark blue robe towel, shaped like a black silk hat, with wide corners and more than five inches long. It is made of curtains and soap yarn. Wear a black hat when wearing a uniform.
Golden crown, heavy
A catty of six taels, with two wings erect on the back crown, was called "mountain" at that time.
2. Women's headdresses and crowns in Ming Dynasty
The phoenix crown of the Empress of the Ming Dynasty is a ceremonial crown with a silk screen as the fetus, decorated with a small emerald phoenix and a jewelry tassel. There are two kinds of crowns in Ming dynasty, one is worn by empresses, and the crown is decorated with dragons besides phoenixes. The other is the colorful crown worn by ordinary women, which is not decorated with dragons and phoenixes, but only with beaded flowers, but also called rockhopper.
The picture (3 1) shows the diamond-encrusted golden dragon and jade phoenix crown unearthed in Dingling. The dragon is welded by gold wire superposition process, which is hollow and full of three-dimensional sense; Phoenix sticky kingfisher hair, lasting and gorgeous color. The crown is also decorated with many pearls and precious stones.
Hongwu's four-year-old queen always wears Zhen Hong's big sleeves, clothes embroidered with golden dragon and phoenix patterns, and a special bun with six dragons and nine phoenixes. Figure (32) was worn by the filial piety queen of the Ming Dynasty. The robes of the imperial concubines are all dressed in green Zhai Yi clothes, with nine tops and four tops, nine flowers and nine temples.
3. Military helmet
Helmet is a hat used by military commanders to protect their heads in war. Usually a hard tire. The hat is decorated with ornaments such as fluffy balls and beads, and there are cherry blossoms on the handsome helmet. The types of helmets are: master helmet worn by generals, overlord helmet and handsome helmet.
There are three styles of helmets, one is a small helmet with a hat band company net; The second is bowl-shaped, with cotton cloth to protect the neck. The helmet is tall but has no eyebrows, and feathers are inserted on the shaft; The third is the steeple high bowl style, without eyebrows. Helmets are divided into helmets, neck-locked helmets, gold-winged helmets, four-petal or six-petal bright iron helmets, eight-petal brass bright iron helmets and so on. It is also named according to the production, form, material and color of the helmet. In a word, the armor used in actual combat in Ming Dynasty is complete, meticulous and exquisite.
At the end of the Ming Dynasty, soldiers and warriors used colorful cloth towels, and soldiers and deacons wore red hats and were decorated with indigo-dyed swan feathers. The honorable person adorns with three feathers, and the second one with two feathers. At the ceremony, all the guards wore phoenix-winged helmets. General chain mail and Jin Yiwei wore golden armor, while the general wore red helmet, green armor, golden armor, red leather armor and silver armor.
In the Qing Dynasty, "Leave your hair without hair, leave your hair headless"
Regarding the clothing system of the Manchu Dynasty, there were compulsory measures in the early Qing Dynasty.
All kinds of ceremonial crowns
Chaoguan
The warm hat in winter is made of smoked mink and black fox. The warm hat is round, the top of the hat is arched, and the brim is folded upwards.
The hat is decorated with red hat latitude, with three layers at the top, inheriting four golden dragons and decorated with oriental pearls and pearls. Summer cool hat, made of jade grass or rattan and bamboo silk, wrapped in yellow or white silk, looks like a hat, prefixed with golden Buddha and suffixed with forest. It is also decorated with red hat weft and an oriental pearl. The top of the hat is the same as that of a warm hat. The crown crown has three layers, the top is a sharp gem, the middle is a spherical pearl, and the bottom is a metal base. such as
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Gifu crown is relatively simple, with only two parts: spherical orb and metal base, and the base is made of gold.
Also useful is copper, which is engraved with patterns. T-shaped is an important symbol to distinguish the official ranks in Qing Dynasty. The colors and materials of the crown beads are varied, reflecting the grades of different officials. According to the etiquette of the Qing dynasty, the crown beads of court officials are divided into three layers: pointed gems above, spherical pearls in the middle and metal bases below. Civil servants use rubies as the tops, corals as the tops, sapphires as the tops, lapis lazuli as the tops, crystals as the tops, shells as the top six products, pure gold as the top seven products, carved gold as the top eight products, and carved gold as the top nine products. Those without pearls have no grades. In the eighth year of Yongzheng (A.D. 1730), the official crown system was changed, and the gemstones were replaced with glass of the same color. After drying, the crests of these crowns are replaced by transparent or opaque glass, called bright crests and nie crests. For example, one product is called Bright Red Top, another product is called Nie Red Top, the third product is called Bright Blue Top, the fourth product is called Nie Blue Top, the fifth product is called Bright White Top, and the sixth product is called Nie White Top. As for the plain gold top of Qipin, it was also replaced by brass. Wu Zhi is like a civil servant. Gifford crown is relatively simple, with only two parts: a spherical sphere and a metal base. If an official of the Qing Dynasty broke the law and was removed from his official position, he would have to take off his hat, indicating that he had no official position.
Constant service crown
Knot the dome with red velvet, commonly known as abacus knot. In winter, the eaves turn over the skins, hanging sideways and pointed in summer.
Open eaves and rows of tree crowns
In summer, woven jade grass or rattan and bamboo silk are used as materials, and the inner edge of red yarn is decorated with Zhu Mao. The hat top and beam are yellow.
There is a pearl on the front. In winter, it is made of black fox or black sheepskin and blue velvet, and its style is like a service crown.
Cold and warm official hats in Qing dynasty
The official hats of men in Qing dynasty were divided into top hat and cap. Top hats, commonly known as "big hats", have two types:
One is worn in winter, called a warm hat; One is worn in summer, called a cool hat.
This kind of warm hat is worn in winter. It is round in style and has a brim around it. Most of the materials are made of leather, and there are also
Made of tweed, satin and cloth, depending on the weather. The color is mainly black. There are also differences between furs and the like. Minks are the most expensive at first, followed by sea otters, and then foxes. There is no skin under them. Because the sea otter is expensive, it is replaced by yellow wolf skin dyed black, named Sao mouse, and people are scrambling to follow suit. During the reign of Kangxi, a kind of warm hat for shearing wool appeared in some places. It was black and thin, like a coquettish mouse. Because of its low price, most bachelors are happy to wear it. There is also a red hat weft in the middle of the warm hat, and the top of the hat is equipped with a thimble, which is made of rubies such as red, blue, white and gold.
The shape of the cool hat has no eaves, such as cone and hat, commonly known as trumpet. Most materials are made of rattan, bamboo, bamboo mat or wheat straw. Wrapped in silk, the colors are mostly white, lake, yellow and so on. Decorate with red tassels and beads. Ding Zhu is an important symbol to distinguish official positions, and the height of the T-shape is like a warm hat.
Peacock feathers (decorations on the hats of royal officials in Qing Dynasty)
It's peacock feathers. Under the thimble of the top hat, there is a two-inch thimble or feeder made of jade or enamel.
Feather tube, Henaan tube is inserted in this feather tube and dragged behind the crown. At its tail end, there is a very bright annular eye called eye, which is different from Henaan with one eye, two eyes and three eyes. The one without eyes is called blue feather. Officials in the Qing Dynasty were graded according to the number of eyes, and three eyes were the most expensive.
There are blue feathers and flower feathers. Blue feathers are made of stork feathers. Blue, long and eyeless feathers are lower than flower feathers. Hualing is a peacock feather, which is commonly known as "eye" and "solar halo". There are monocular, binocular and tricuspid eyes at the end of feathers, and the eyes with more are the most expensive. In the eighteenth year of Shunzhi (A.D. 166 1), it was stipulated that Hualing was not allowed to be worn by princes, county kings, Baylor and royalty, but could be worn below Beizi. Later regulations: Beizi wears dazzling feathers; Lord protector wears a pair of eyes; The home secretary, the first, second, third and fourth guards, the vanguard and the commanders of the guards all wear flower feathers.
Hood in Qing dynasty
Also called "wind pocket", and later called "Guanyin pocket", probably similar to that worn by Master Guanyin.
Materials include cloth, leather, etc. Most of them are used by the elderly to keep out the cold. Purple, dark blue and dark cyan are the most common colors, and red is the color used by senior officials.
Informal hat
Also known as "little hat", it is made of six petals, commonly known as melon skin hat. Founded in Ming Taizu Hongwu period, Jian 'an VI.
The meaning of unity. This kind of hat has many forms, including flat top, spire, hard tire and soft tire. Flat at most is a hard tire lined with cotton; For convenience, the spires are mostly soft tires.
Cap without cap
Even a hat. It is the Liuhe unified hat that followed the Ming Dynasty, commonly known as "watermelon skin hat". Soft tire caps are mostly pointed.
Top, that is, it can be stacked in your pocket, which is the so-called "60% discount on military aircraft." At the end of the Qing dynasty, the knot on the top of the hat was blue and became as big as a soybean. When the scholar-officials lived in Yanzhai, they often wore small ceremony hats.
terai
There are many styles, such as large semicircle, semicircle and four-corner eaves, which can be folded up or down.
The back eaves are folded upward, the front eaves are shaded, and the top is tapered. Felt hats in Qing Dynasty were worn by farmers and market workers. Due to the cold in the north, felt hats in some places in Inner Mongolia have fur inside.
A woman's crown hat
Empress chaoguan
Smoked mink in winter, green velvet in summer, and red hat weft on it. There are three floors at the top, and there are three floors at the top, golden phoenix and golden phoenix.
Between every pearl that permeates the east. There are Jinfeng and Zhu Bao in the latitude of the hat, and there is a Jin Zhai behind the crown. There are five lines of pearls hanging at the tail of the Zhai, with 320 pearls. Each line is decorated with lapis lazuli, Dongzhu and other precious stones, and the end is decorated with coral.
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Decorated with Zhu Wei, decorated with Dong Zhu. A lady's crown is similar to a queen's crown, but both are qualitative.
The ground, color and pattern are different. Crown jewelry, such as pearls, pearls, opals, corals, etc. Whether to wear it or not depends on the size of the grade.
"Notes on Old Beijing" records: "The flag bearer's women's dress has her hair combed into a flat bun, which is called the head, also called the two ends. The big makeup is decorated with pearls and jade, and it is called scorpion. " At that time, the women in the flag-bearer used to comb the word "one word", also called "two heads" and "two heads"
The Taiping Heavenly Kingdom "didn't use gauze hats and feathers at all"
185 1 year, the largest peasant uprising broke out in the history of China, namely the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom Movement. Quiet and peaceful
The kingdom of heaven despised the clothes of the Qing dynasty, cut off the braid and left a full forehead. They are very careful in their choice of clothes and strict in their discipline, such as gauze hats and feathers. The crown hats of generals in Taiping Heavenly Kingdom include horn hats, wind hats, cool hats and hats.
"Civilization starts from scratch" in the Republic of China
19 1 1 The Revolution of 1911 was a great revolution, which not only ended the rule of the Qing Dynasty,
But also make China people look brand-new from head to toe. 19 12 the new dress standard stipulated by the government of the Republic of China is: men's big dresses are suits, which are divided into day and night, and they wear high-top hats with eaves. You can wear a suit and a low-eaved dome as a routine dress, black woolen cloth in winter and white kudzu vine in summer.
The hats popular in China during this period included: red tassel hat, soft satin round jujube top hard hat, soft satin pointed jujube top soft hat and cloth children's lion head hat. In addition, there are felt hats, velvet or cloth hats, cork hats, straw hats, white gauze cool hats, bamboo hats and so on. In the late Qing Dynasty, farmers wore felt hats, velvet hats and pointed straw hats. Merchants and Confucians wear melon skin hats and cool hats. Most gentry wear black satin melon skin hats, commonly known as "hat towers", while civilians wear yarn-woven or cloth domes. Women wear headscarves, commonly known as "green handkerchiefs". Children wear embroidered "headbands" or lion hats (tiger hats are worn in some places). During the Republic of China, high hats were popular among gentry and intellectuals, commonly known as "high hats". In summer, the rich wear coconut-shaped Luzon hats. Students wear a student hat with eaves and a scout cap. /question /284928638.html