In fact, as long as it involves art, it will face the choice of formalism and functionalism. Anyone who is engaged in design work, if he simply pursues formalism or functionalism, may come to a dead end in his design career and it is difficult to get further development. The basic principle of jewelry business design is to take aesthetics and practical economy as the guidance, pursue and guide fashion trends and pursue profits; The principle of jewelry art design is beauty and uniqueness, and the practicality and economy of the design scheme are less considered. It is positioned to guide the fashion trend and meet the different needs of a few specific objects. The design of jewelry art juice focuses on the application of expression skills, and its design constraints are relatively simple, thus making the expression means
The choice of jewelry is more flexible and free. Its content mainly includes the material, structure, shape, color, decoration, composition and pattern composition of the jewelry design object, which comes from the designer's personal experience or accidental feeling and often has a strong personalized color.
The application of jewelry design in art field is different from that in business field. As a branch of art design, jewelry art design is different from jewelry commercial design.
It must be clear that jewelry manufacturing can never be completely replaced by mechanical manufacturing, because its manufacturing process contains exquisite and complicated manual skills and personality. Because of the beauty of simplicity and the diversity of vision, modern people advocate individuality. Generally speaking, most people like simple, exquisite and perfect style, which changes with fashion trends and seasonal changes and becomes a common element in jewelry design. subtle
Structural treatment and material application, geometric techniques and rational design fully show modern style, so that creativity and production technology can be vividly expressed. Diamonds and precious metals can be perfectly used in jewelry design. Streamlined modeling and simple modeling composition reflect the nobility and exquisiteness of diamond jewelry; The clear and tough outline and the firmness of precious metals create the concise style of futuristic jewelry design and show its agility. Transparent and clean diamonds and solid precious metals repeatedly embody the concept of integration of purity and cleanliness, making them more detached from the world. Taking advantage of people's poor eyesight and the so-called contradiction in vision, people feel that the graphic area is larger or smaller than the actual graphic area in plane composition; In stereoscopic composition, the graphic volume with the same actual volume may feel different; In terms of color composition, the color tendency is more obvious and prominent. The above design rules, through the practical application of precious metals and diamond materials, increase the metal reflection on the side or inner surface (diamond base) due to the brightness of platinum and the refraction of light, giving people a greater illusion. Therefore, although the weight and cutting of the two different styles of diamond jewelry are the same, the size and feel of the diamond are obviously different due to different psychological factors.
Modeling from Plane to Stereo
Because precious metal materials of diamond jewelry, such as K-gold, gold and platinum, are expensive, it is impossible for us to make a three-dimensional space like outdoor sculpture, and it is often pressed into thin sheets or hollowed out on the back to reduce the weight. For example, the metal sheet can be formed into an empty form (solid space or virtual space) by bending, twisting, surrounding and welding, or can be formed by combining the entities themselves. The relief effect of round body, square body, cone and chiseled flower welded by metal sheet can be regarded as the design element of diamond jewelry. Jewelry art design has developed by leaps and bounds, showing colorful and different styles, and trying to find natural, simple and pure media in the colorful world in order to return to simplicity and express an artistic situation of eternal beauty. Jewelry art designers integrate personal feelings into their works, which undoubtedly narrows the distance between artists and jewelry wearers, and makes the beauty of crystal material, technology and art highly harmonious and unified.
As far as art is concerned, artistic beauty is the "soul" of the aesthetic characteristics of modern art jewelry and a kind of comprehensive beauty. Under the guidance of aesthetic goals, ideals and requirements of aesthetic practice, artists highly unify the spatial modeling, color matching, material combination, technological production, functional use and spiritual connotation of jewelry, and their aesthetic center is "spiritual beauty". Cultural connotation and spiritual realm are also one of the signs that art jewelry is different from other kinds of jewelry. To measure the value of an artistic jewelry is not the weight of metal and gem, but its inherent artistic taste, unique artistic modeling and new value concept conveyed. From this point of view, art jewelry can even be appreciated as an independent work of art without its traditional significance.
This artistic beauty comes from the beauty of reality, but it is higher than the beauty of reality. Its purpose is not persuasion, but infection. Crystal jewelry needs to inherit the jade tradition and create original crystal art jewelry with cultural personality. Traditional and classical elements are in front of us, which can be plant patterns; Character image; It can also be clean, smooth and concise lines of Ming furniture; Geometric lattice modeling of windows in ancient dwellings: Even in the Tang Dynasty, we should fully understand these "classics" that can be used for reference. At the same time, we should have a modern digital concept in our mind, dialectically combine the grass pattern with the nano-geometric circle, or embed crystals in the headdress in the shape of a big roof. This is really a modern decoration.
In terms of design, jewelry art design is different from commercial jewelry design. The former is jewelry with commemorative or symbolic significance, which is based on the high concentration and sublimation of ideas; The latter is jewelry developed and designed for the purpose of gaining profits and catering to the consumer market. At present, carved jewelry is the most common design of crystal art jewelry in China. Through the inheritance of ancient patterns and culture, designers have created a large number of works with auspicious meanings. Common crystal ornaments such as pendants, doughnuts and handles carved with the theme of "bats in the eye" and "good luck with dragons and phoenixes" are mostly jewelry designed with "packaging" or "clever colors". Transparent and pure crystals, especially the most unique yellow and purple crystals, are often used to polish crystals into faceted geometric figures, so that the "luster" and "brilliance" of crystals are more brilliant, and they are made into jewelry with K-gold inlay system.
This form is often used in commercial jewelry design, but there are still artistic jewelry. Designers will design works with the themes of "Sun", "Harvest" and "Autumn" according to the dazzling golden crystal characteristics. In the design of inlaid jewelry, the most commonly used is the crystal with edging or non-transparent purity, and the jewelry design of other jewelry is used for reference for secondary transformation. Or use "edging" and "melon seed buckle" to make simple jewelry to set off the "elegance" inside the crystal. As far as the development of artistic crystal jewelry is concerned, the design that can not only show modern ideas but also highlight the traditional charm of jewelry is the most artistic design at present. From the perspective of jewelry audience, they prefer the "classical" and "traditional" jewelry. For example, you can use classical patterns as decorative textures, create an atmosphere of blending ancient and modern on the surface of jewelry with abstract and minimalist shapes, or set precious diamonds, rubies and sapphires in simple crystal stones to create a gap between feeling and vision. Application of Constitutionalism in Design
Composition is a modern modeling concept, and he studies the shaping of shape. The concept of "shape" here includes two-dimensional plane "painting" and three-dimensional "shape-body". Therefore, the study of form by constructivism includes two aspects: plane graphics and three-dimensional form. At the same time, in order to make the form more eye-catching, we should also study the colors that play an important role in visual effects. Therefore, graphics, shapes and colors constitute three main aspects of composition research. Constitutionalism actually includes three parts: plane, three-dimensional and color.
Plane composition is a special study of plane modeling. It starts with the study of the elements of graphics and pictures, analyzes the elements of graphics modeling, and studies the general rules of graphics and pictures through repeated composition tests to improve the ability of graphics modeling. Three-dimensional composition is to extract its constituent elements from various three-dimensional modeling for analysis. From the texture treatment of form to the construction of three-dimensional form, from the modeling of single body to the spatial combination of form, the materials, tools and techniques are analyzed and studied accordingly. By plane
The material gradually constructs a three-dimensional form, which improves the ability of feeling, cognition and creative thinking in three-dimensional space.
Color composition is the study of color law. This paper mainly studies the phenomenon and essence of color, color expression, color perception, color collocation, color composition law and so on. Therefore, constitutionalism studies the shaping materials of the body (because in the process of modeling, whether it is plane modeling, three-dimensional modeling or color processing, there must be material intervention), the combination relationship of the body, the expression of the body, the expression of color and so on. Jewelry design is mainly a process of creating three-dimensional modeling. This paper briefly introduces the elements of three-dimensional modeling (shape, color and texture) and the application of their forms in jewelry design.
Composition and methods of the body
Volume is the extension of points, lines and surfaces in three-dimensional space. According to the composition of the body, it can be divided into different types: the body formed by line extension is called linear body, the body formed by surface extension is called planar body, and the new body obtained by the change of the body itself is called block body.
Line body: The line body is characterized by length, showing lightness and tension, with a sense of extension and movement; In the process of wire forming, different pairs of wires can get different fabrics, thus forming different feelings such as staggered feeling, rhythm feeling, layering feeling and stretching feeling.
Wires include hard wires. There are frame structure, grid structure, single modeling and so on. Integral modeling refers to fixing a single hard wire one by one and rotating it. The forms are emission, gradual change, rotation and so on. , and then staggered, overlapped and interspersed to form various shapes. The key point of modeling is to create a sense of order and rhythm through the up and down accumulation of wires and the continuous development of front, back, left and right; And flexible wires. There are some ways to build a flexible cord, such as stretching and knotting. Knots are designed by different weaving and knotting methods, which can be widely used in jewelry design made of some nonmetals (silk thread, plastic, etc.). ). In fact, China's traditional weaving art and some ethnic jewelry are all shaped in this way. In modern jewelry technology, metal materials are sometimes modeled with soft silk, such as necklaces and knots woven with gold wire.
Face material body: Face material body consists of two-dimensional plane. The dough itself has a sense of swelling, fullness and light pleasure, which can be formed by bending. In the process of modeling, pay attention to the fact that the surface material can be flat or curved, and the modeling forms include repetition and gradient. Because jewelry is generally small, the number of basic materials used for modeling should not be too much, so as not to appear messy and complicated, which will affect the visual effect.
Block: a new block is obtained through the deformation and reorganization of the basic block. There are three ways: deformation, cutting and fitting. This is often widely used in jewelry design, but jewelry modeling is an important design method.
Application of color in design
Color refers to the surface color of materials used in modeling design, including natural color and artificial color. In the current jewelry design, precious metal materials show the true colors of materials, while the surface colors of jewelry made of K-gold materials and other non-precious metal materials are often artificially treated to present various colors as needed. In modern jewelry consumption, people pursue a fashion, so the color of jewelry is closely related to fashion, rich and colorful.
The embodiment of texture in jewelry design
Texture refers to the surface effect of a work, that is, the surface texture. Including the texture of the material itself and the artificial texture effect, its creative methods include superposition, shaping, shaping (carving, corrosion, wrinkling and so on. ) and knitting. Artificial surface texture treatment makes the metal surface present a simple feeling. In jewelry design, the following methods are often used to make different textures on the jewelry surface.
Polishing: Polishing with a polishing machine makes the metal surface smooth, bright and dazzling.
Sandblasting: After the jewelry is polished, under the action of high-pressure gas, quartz sand is sprayed on the jewelry surface with a sandblasting machine at high speed to form a matte effect, so that the jewelry surface is no longer dazzling but has a delicate, hazy and soft luster.
Wire drawing: Use emery to do directional movement on the surface of jewelry, thus forming fine metal stripes on the metal surface, with silky luster. Selection of original design elements
Design is a creative process, which is to analyze, deform, divide or combine the original design elements to get a shape that can reflect the designer's thoughts. This process includes two steps: the selection of original design elements and the evolution from original design elements to final design modeling. Design comes from life, and the original design elements come from the images recorded (sketched) by designers in the process of observing life, including people, animals, plants, architecture, art and so on. These images all contain rich cultures, from history to modern to the future, and from China to the west. Designers' sketches of objects are different from ordinary art paintings. They pay attention to the characteristics, structure and laws of things, rather than texture, light and shadow and color. For example, to observe the structure, we should carefully observe the various parts of the object and what are the characteristics of the connection mode of each part. Observing the internal organizational forms of the object, such as anatomy and sketch, can also find beautiful modeling elements, thus inspiring the design modeling. In addition, observing and selecting shapes from different angles can enhance the ability and way of selecting design elements. The initial design elements have undergone various forms of evolution, and finally got the design modeling. Generally speaking, there are three main methods: deformation, shape combination and shape segmentation.
Application of deformation in jewelry design
Deformation can make the shape have a sense of life and human touch (Figures 26 and 27). Specific methods are:
1, twisting makes the body soft and dynamic.
2. Expansion shows the resistance of internal force to external force, which is full of elasticity and sense of life.
3. Tilting makes the basic shape form a certain angle with the horizontal direction, which is inclined, creating a sense of instability and achieving the purpose of liveliness.
4. The basic form of winding changes in a certain direction, showing a certain dynamic.
The application of shape combination in jewelry design: shape combination is also called addition law. Refers to combining more than two basic shapes into a new three-dimensional shape. There are many forms of combination, such as symmetry, repetition, gradual change, mutation, contrast, harmony and so on. The application of the law of addition makes the original simple structural elements evolve into complex and perceptual designs.
The application of human body segmentation in jewelry design, also known as subtraction rule, refers to the segmentation of basic shapes to form new shapes. The divided surface (line) can be a straight surface (line) or an arc surface (line); The cutting directions are horizontal, vertical, inclined and rotating. The value of segmentation lies in understanding and changing the existing space, and getting the required space modeling and visual effect that conforms to beauty.
Matters needing attention in design evolution
Design should reject mediocrity. As a designer, the most important thing is the spirit of innovation and the consciousness of rejecting mediocrity.
It is necessary to avoid the homogenization of jewelry theme modeling elements. Although the patterns available in jewelry design are limited, this limitation is a test of the designer's ability to re-create, and the limited resources need to be sublimated. At the same time, we should create new things with our own soul on the premise of deeply understanding social culture and public psychology.
Avoid homogenization of expression techniques. Based on the same sketch material, the modeling elements extracted from the design are completely different. This requires training your ability of observation and evolution. For example, from different parts and angles of apple tree buds, their shapes and structures are different. We should extract them according to our needs and skillfully use materials and colors to express them. Sometimes we just look for the laws of beauty from nature, such as the slender and symmetrical beauty of peacock feathers, instead of directly using its shape as a modeling element.
Analyze and summarize the design evolution process of good jewelry design works, and provide inspiration for their own design evolution. But don't imitate blindly, be good at thinking from different angles, dare to break through the routine and find new expressions.
Application of patterns in jewelry design
There are many kinds of patterns, including animal patterns, figure patterns, flower patterns, decorative patterns, geometric patterns and so on. These patterns can evolve into various design shapes.
To skillfully use these models, we must first have a good understanding of them. How to get these patterns? This can be achieved by observing and understanding related fields in life (such as architecture, paper cutting, embroidery, wood carving, stone carving, brick carving, printing and dyeing, painting, etc.). ), and by copying a large number of patterns, sketching a large number of natural forms.
Different patterns often contain different meanings. For example, the dragon and phoenix in animal patterns symbolize auspiciousness, the peony in flower patterns symbolizes wealth, the plum blossom symbolizes perseverance and perseverance, the evergreen tree symbolizes eternity, and the olive branch symbolizes peace and equality. Various auspicious clouds, water ripples and wishful patterns are typical decorative patterns, which appear in a large number in related art forms such as architecture and are also used in jewelry patterns.
Geometric patterns are "shapes" composed of points, lines and surfaces. Although it does not reflect specific things and meanings, its harmonious beauty brings people visual comfort and has a pleasing aesthetic effect in spirit. This harmony is manifested in many aspects, such as the golden section ratio of 1: 1.6 18, which is called the golden section on the Internet and now forms a golden rectangle. During the European Renaissance, this proportion was used in almost all buildings and handicrafts. For another example, the geometric pattern of the tower has the beauty of rhythm. Geometric pattern is an abstract artistic language. Many geometric patterns are evolved and simplified by forming. With the demand of market and design objects, jewelry art design is gradually divided. There are many differences between the two jewelry design methods in design principles and positioning, design procedures, design content and expression, but at the same time, they still maintain many characteristics. Starting from artistry, gradually improving in the process of pursuing self-development, and constantly learning from each other and promoting each other in development will be the development direction of jewelry design in the future.
For those who are engaged in jewelry art design, under the premise of clarifying the differences and relations between jewelry commercial design and jewelry art design, they should constantly learn the artistic construction methods and expression techniques in different fields and learn advanced design methods, which will become an important element to promote the continuous expansion of their own design methods, which will make the jewelry design level in the 2 1 century get a fundamental leap and make high-level jewelry design an important driving force to promote the prosperity of the jewelry industry. Jewelry design requires designers to have a high comprehensive quality, but few professionals in China started late in this field. Everyone agrees that the purpose of establishing such an organization is to cultivate more talents, improve the level of domestic jewelry design and bring the Chinese jewelry market into a new era. The formation of jewelry art design style is different trend of thought of the times and regional characteristics. Through creative conception and expression, it gradually develops into a representative jewelry art design form. Typical styles are usually closely related to local cultural factors and natural conditions, and the characteristics of conception and modeling are also needed in creation. External and internal factors that form style. Although style is expressed in form, it has profound connotations such as art, culture and social development. In this profound sense, style does not stay or is equivalent to form.
The styles of jewelry art design can be mainly divided into traditional styles, modern styles and mixed styles.
Traditional style
Traditional indoor style refers to the indoor style with historical and cultural characteristics. Generally speaking, compared with modernism. Emphasize the inheritance of history and culture and the continuation of humanistic characteristics. Traditional styles are usually called Chinese style, European style, Islamic style and Mediterranean style. The characteristics of the same traditional style in different periods and regions are not exactly the same. For example, European styles are also divided into: Gothic, Baroque, Classical, French Baroque, English Baroque and so on. Ming and Qing styles, Sui and Tang styles, Huizhou styles and Western Sichuan styles.
agile
Modernist style. Modern style originates from Bauhaus School founded by 19 19, which emphasizes breaking through the old tradition, creating new buildings, paying attention to function and spatial organization, giving full play to the formal beauty of structural composition, being concise in modeling, opposing redundant decoration, advocating reasonable composition technology, respecting the performance of materials, paying attention to the texture and color configuration effect of materials themselves, and developing non-traditional asymmetry on the basis of functional layout. Attach importance to actual process operation and emphasize the connection between design and industrial production.