Double-frame planting method: frame height 1.2m, and frame spacing of 40cm. Plant one pitaya seedling every 35 cm, and the corresponding two pitaya seedlings support each other. Branches droop naturally, with a row spacing of 2.5 meters, and about 1000 plants can be planted per mu. Scaffolding plays a supporting role in pitaya, which can help its aerial roots grow and climb up along the scaffolding, effectively increase the spatial area of pitaya, provide a lot of oxygen for pitaya and improve its photosynthesis.
Build an arched shelf, weld a crossbar at the top, and raise one in mid-air for aerial roots to climb. When the temperature drops, the whole arch is covered with plastic film, which can play a role in cold protection. Prune pitaya. The main purpose of pruning in spring is to cut off diseased dead branches, shaded branches, aged fruiting branches and useless new branches. Winter shears are mainly used to trim and reshape pitaya.
In order to maintain the high and stable yield of fruit trees, the new branches and buds of pitaya should generally be pulled out in time. Because the new shoots from the new shoots are difficult to bear fruit, consume a lot of nutrients, and easily spread pests and diseases all over the garden, the top of the middle and upper branches and drooping branches with a length of about 1.5 meters are the easiest to bear fruit, while the middle and lower branches rarely bloom. The growth of upper branches is usually greater than that of middle and lower branches. The role of the top advantage is highlighted. Pruning once at seedling stage can make pitaya grow fruit, and pruning is also needed at fruiting stage, so as to ensure delicious fruit in the next year. Use a clean and sharp pruning knife for pruning tools, and pay attention to control the temperature and light in the pruning ditch.