Clothing plate maker is the backbone of clothing enterprises. What kind of knowledge should you have as a clothing printmaker and a clothing printmaker?

(1) Human body knowledge. The knowledge of human body includes: the structure of human skeleton and muscle tissue, the body surface morphology of various parts of human body and the general characteristics of human body in static state, the general characteristics of human body in motion and dynamic state, the change law of human growth and development ratio, the balance law before and after human body changes, the gender difference of human body shape and the special body shape of human body shape variation, the classification of size specifications, the coverage rate of size specifications and the proportion of human body.

(2) Clothing material knowledge: First of all, the texture and performance of surface accessories are different. When making garment boards, it is necessary to master the properties of surface accessories in order to make appropriate adjustments, such as adjusting according to their specific properties and values, such as natural shrinkage, heating shrinkage, shrinkage, etc., to ensure the requirements of finished product specifications, and treat them differently according to the yarn count, density, drape, weave structure, thickness, softness and hardness of the fabric. Secondly, the surface differences of clothing fabrics, the front and back of fabrics, and different organizational characteristics have great influence on the board-making, such as the backlight and stripes of fabrics, and the plant patterns and mandarin duck patterns in yarn-dyed or printed fabrics. Furthermore, the concept of warp and weft of fabric, the main structure of fabric is interwoven by warp and weft, the length of cloth along the edge is warp, usually called straight yarn, and the width of cloth is weft, usually called horizontal yarn. Because of their different processes in the textile process, they have formed their own unique properties and their applications in clothing are also different. Straight yarn has high strength, is not easy to stretch and deform, and is suitable for the direction perpendicular to the human body, mainly reflected in the length of clothing. The yarn quality of horizontal stripe yarn is soft and the twist is small, which can be slightly extended or reduced. It is suitable for sideways use of human body, mainly in the girth of clothing and the width of each part. Oblique wires are used obliquely at the intersection of warp and weft, which are elastic, plastic and easy to bend and change. Often used in many parts of clothing, such as side strips, it has a good plump, round and natural effect. In addition, it is also used for dresses, coats and other large-size, bias-cut clothing, with smooth drape, rounded waves and free relaxation.

So, what should we pay attention to when using diagonal yarn?

First, take 45% of the warp and weft of the fabric. Diagonal yarn has the best effect and performance, greater than or less than 45. Angle has different degrees of influence;

Secondly, it is necessary to consider that the direction of oblique wire can be divided into horizontal and vertical oblique, which is also called broken wire and slippery wire.

In addition, clothing pattern designers and pattern designers must also understand the production methods of clothing, and plate making and technology should be closely coordinated, mainly including the following points:

① Seam structure, such as back seam, side seam, sleeve seam, upper collar seam, etc. Crotch, waist seam, side seam, etc. , as well as the performance methods of sewing, such as open sewing, reverse sewing, etc. Back seam can be divided into back seam of hemming, back seam of hemming, back seam of exposed pressure line, bobbin seam, hidden seam, hidden seam and so on. These are all reserved when making plates, and we should distinguish between different situations.

(2) Sewing structure. There should be continuous creases or other single seams at the edges of all parts or parts of the garment, such as bottom swing, cuffs, hem, armholes, neckline, etc. These structural treatments should be reflected when making plates.

(3) The difference of internal structure, including the structural relationship between the surface, lining and other accessories of clothing, such as whether the coat is hung in the whole or half, the lining and production technology should be changed, and there should be different forms of changes when making plates.

(4) Plastic surgery, which aims at shortening or lengthening some parts to reach the bumps or depressions on the surface, includes manual traction or contraction, plus the contraction of fixed traction belt and hand needle arch line, as well as plastic surgery with professional equipment, crotch pulling, chest ironing, etc. These technical means should be properly treated and adjusted when making plates.

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