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What is the pruning method for sugar-bearing trees?

Sugar orange begins to bear fruit 3-4 years after planting, and the output increases year by year. At this time, the tree is both growing and bearing fruit, but growth is the main focus and the crown continues to expand, allowing it to enter the peak fruiting period as soon as possible. At the same time, we need to bear fruit and maintain an appropriate amount of output every year. The vegetative growth of the first-fruiting tree is relatively strong, the number of branch shoots is large, the contradiction between the shoot and the fruit is obvious, the physiological fruit drop is heavy, and the yield is very unstable. Pruning of first-fruiting trees mainly uses light pruning. The purpose is to properly control vegetative growth and prevent excessive pruning, which will cause a large number of sprouting shoots, cause excessive vegetative growth, aggravate the conflict between shoots and fruits competing for nutrients, and cause fruit drop. At the same time, it is necessary to promote the transformation of the tree body into reproductive growth, increase the fruit setting rate and increase the yield.

How to prune first-fruiting trees: Prune in spring and shorten the backbone branches. Leave 1/2 or 2/3 of the main branches, sub-main branches, side branches and some branches in the upper part of the crown for short cuts, and grow strong extension branches to maintain strong growth and continuously expand the crown. At the same time, continue to configure the results. Groups of branches form a plump crown. Lightly cut the inner branches. For the inner branches, only cross branches that disturb the tree shape are cut short, some clustered branches and dense branches are thinned out, and dead branches, diseased branches and branches are thinned out. Generally, it is advisable to cut lightly or not at all, and the amount of trimming should not be too large. Retract drooping branches. For sugar orange trees that have entered the initial fruiting period, the spring shoots in the middle and lower parts of the crown will gradually transform into mother branches, while the upper spring shoots are the base branches for new shoots. Therefore, the drooping spring shoots in the middle and lower parts of the tree crown, except for the delicate shoots, should be preserved as much as possible to allow them to bear fruit. After fruiting, perform retractive pruning on the drooping tips of the drooping branches every year. This can not only renew and rejuvenate the drooping branches, but also appropriately raise the fruiting position so that the fruit tips do not hang down to the ground and are affected by rainwater on the ground and become infected. Pathogens affect the commercial value of fruits. (Pruning and topping in summer. The vigorously growing spring shoots should be topping to force the spring shoots to stop growing and reduce the loss of flowers and buds caused by conflicts between shoots and fruits. When the summer shoots and early autumn shoots grow to 20-625px, they should be topping. Make the branches grow strong, mature early, and promote branching; it is not suitable to top the autumn shoots, because the autumn shoots after topping cannot be transformed into fruiting mother branches, the number of flowers is reduced, and it is difficult to ensure the appropriate amount of buds and shoots. . In early-fruiting trees, vegetative growth and reproductive growth are easily out of balance. Often due to improper fertilization and excessive use of nitrogen fertilizer, a large number of summer shoots are lost, and the vegetative growth is excessive, resulting in insufficient nutrients in the young fruits and aggravating physiological fruit drop. In order to alleviate For conflicts between growth and fruiting, young summer shoots can be wiped off every 5-7 days from the end of May to early July. It can also be combined with spraying 3-4 days after the summer shoots sprout at the end of May or early June. Adjusting phosphine at 500-700mL/kg can also effectively inhibit the hair loss of summer shoots. After the second physiological fruit drop in mid-July, it can promote the growth of autumn shoots and promote the growth of autumn shoots. From the end of June to the beginning of July, apply heavy fruit-promoting fertilizer to the main fruit-bearing mother branches of orange trees; in mid-to-late July, retain 3 to 4 effective buds on the oblique and strong spring shoots on the periphery of the crown. Cut short to promote strong autumn shoots, which will serve as mother branches for excellent fruiting in the next year. Continue to short the extension branches, leaving 1/2 or 2/3 of the main branches, sub-main branches, side branches and some branches in the upper part of the crown. Cut off and produce strong extension branches to maintain vigorous growth and continuously expand the crown. At the same time, it encourages buds on the side branches or base to sprout and branch out, and cultivates the fruiting branch groups in the inner and middle and lower parts to increase the amount of fruit and form a plump crown. . Curved branches and twisted branches promote flowering. Sugar orange flower buds begin to differentiate physiologically in September, and flower bud morphological differentiation begins in November. September-October is the key period for controlling flower bud differentiation. Usually, the shoots are growing vigorously in summer and autumn. The treatment of bent branches and twisted branches will weaken the growth potential of the branches, which will facilitate the differentiation of flower buds, increase the number of flowers, and improve the quality of the flowers. The best time for the treatment of bent branches and twisted branches is when the branch tips have reached 750px and have not yet become lignified. It is to bend the summer and autumn long shoots and tie the branch tips to the base of the branch; to twist the branches is to twist the branch tips 5-250px above the base of the summer and autumn long shoots in the opposite direction of growth, that is, twist from the base 180. Drooping and tucked into the armpits of the lower branches.