The new buds of grapes must be picked. After core removal, many nutrients needed for the growth of new shoots are preserved, and the leaves become thicker, the flower buds are full and the branches are rich, which is very important for improving the fruit setting rate, yield and quality of grapes. The key points of grape pit removal technology are as follows:

1. Pick the seedlings planted that year.

For the seedlings with inconsistent growth in the same year, the growth can be adjusted by "looking at the top and picking the heart" to make them grow closer and lay the foundation for collective framing.

(1) weak seedlings: weak seedlings with basal stem diameter below 0.6cm, on the basis of strengthening fertilizer and water, pick the main vines in time, and pick them when the seedlings grow to 50cm to promote secondary branches. Choose 1-2 with strong growth potential as the main vine, which can be smoothed with weak alkali, or choose 1-2 as the auxiliary vine, leaving 4-5 leaves for coring, so that the nutrients made by it can be supplied to the root system to help the main vine grow thicker and longer.

(2) New shoots: For the framework of double-dragon vine shaping, when the seedling only has one main shoot, when the new shoot grows to 5-6 leaves, 3-4 new shoots can be left for coring, and the auxiliary shoots announced by germination are used, and the auxiliary shoots of summer buds can be selected as the main shoots of shaping as needed.

2. Fruit branches are being pitted.

(1) The purpose and function of fruit branch core removal: Because the new shoots of fruit branches grow rapidly before flowering, they consume too much nutrients, which affects the further decomposition of flowers and the growth of flower buds, thus reducing the fruit setting rate. The purpose of core removal is to adjust the nutrient distribution of trees, supply nutrients to inflorescences in a short time, and achieve the purpose of improving fruit setting rate.

(2) Picking time of fruiting branches: it can be carried out from one week before flowering to before flowering, but the best picking time is 3-5 days before flowering. The method for judging the flowering period of grapes is as follows:

① Pre-flowering characteristics: When the grape blooms, the buds change from green to dark green or greenish brown, each bud grows to full size and the petiole is upright. The flower buds are well separated on the inflorescence, and they are not congested with each other. This moment is the best time to get the best result.

② Early flowering: When about 5% plants of a species in the whole garden begin to see a few flower buds blooming, the fruiting branches of that species will be picked at this time.

(3) Degrees of coring: Young leaves or twigs smaller than normal leaves (1/3) will be removed in the appropriate coring period. This specification is applicable to any type. Because when the leaves grow to the size of 1/3, the photosynthetic products produced can not only meet their own needs, but also be supplied to other arrangements; However, young leaves less than 1/3 produce less nutrients than they consume, and need nutrients made by other leaves to make up for it, so they compete with inflorescences for nutrients. Therefore, the best coring time should be 3-5 days before flowering or early flowering to remove young leaves smaller than normal leaves 1/3.

3. The vegetative branches are growing

Branches without inflorescences formed by winter buds of the previous year are called vegetative branches. The standard of nutrient branch coring depends on the length of growth time in different regions.

(1) In the area where the growth time is less than 150 days, leave 7-8 vegetative branches for coring.

(2) In the area where the growth time is 150- 180 days, leave 10- 12 pieces of nutrient branches and leaves for coring. However, when the vegetative branches grow vigorously, they can be picked early and cultivated with the secondary branches of summer buds.

(3) The growth time is more than 1.80 days. If it is in dry and rainy areas, leave 1.2 leaves for coring. If it still grows vigorously, the secondary branches of summer buds can be cultivated and turned into fruiting mother branches. If it is in a rainy area with moderate growth potential, leave 12 leaves for coring, and prune the long tips in winter; If it grows slender, leave 7-8 leaves for coring to promote the thickening of new buds and rich winter buds at the base. When cutting in winter, short or extremely short branches should be arranged.