(1) Check survival and patching: 2 to 3 weeks after grafting, check the survival in time. For the surviving branches, punch holes in the plastic bags in time to let out the air. Be careful not to remove the bags prematurely. , otherwise the survival rate will be affected. Generally, the mouth of the bag or the upper part of the plastic bag can be cut off only when the scion buds start to grow.

For branches where the bark of the scion is found to be shriveled, dry and ungrafted, you can cut off a section of the dead pile and re-graft it.

But in actual operation, if the scion is tied tightly with a plastic strip, do not remove the plastic strip to check the survival rate. You can check whether the buds are fresh, or wait for germination before re- grafting. In this case, bud grafting can be used Or laparotomy and replacement, the effect is also very good.

(2) Untie, remove sprouts, and set up pillars: After grafting, the new shoots can only be untied when they grow to a certain length. Untying too early will affect wound healing, and too late will affect thickening growth. According to experience, it is better to loosen the ties. Late rather than early, it is recommended to loosen the ties in September to October, 2 to 3 months later than the regular June. Make a cut on the rootstock without removing the plastic strips.

For the tillers that occur on the rootstock of a high-grafting tree, under the conditions that do not affect the growth and development of the high-grafting tree, except for the lower part and the bare zone of the sprouting tillers, a part of them can be left in the appropriate position as a spare high-grafting stock. , remove all the rest.

In the year of high grafting, the bond between the stockheads is not very strong, and it is easy to break from the joint in strong winds. In places with strong winds, a stick must be set up to prevent the new heads from breaking. Generally, the new shoots are tied when they grow to 30 cm. The wooden stick supports pull the young branches to the wooden stick.

Those grafted by abdominal grafting should leave live sticks, and the new branches sprouting from the scion should also be tied up in time, and the live sticks should be cut off during winter pruning.

After the bud grafting survives, if it does not germinate that year, the upper part of the grafted bud can be cut off before the buds sprout in the following spring. However, if the bud grafting is early, the anvil can be cut immediately after it survives.

(3) Prevent diseases and insect pests from damaging buds and wounds: During the budding period, tall grafted trees are susceptible to damage by overwintering larvae such as apple leaf moth, star caterpillars, and gold flower bugs. Young buds or newly sprouted young shoots feed whole. The larvae of this kind of pest usually overwinter in dead skin cracks on branches or trunks and in dead leaves under trees. When the pear tree sprouts, it emerges and climbs to the tree to feed. Young shoots or shoots.

For this type of pest, the barrier method is more effective. You can stick a 6 cm wide plastic tape around the trunk or tie an equal or wider plastic film, and coat it with shellac or Use mouse glue to stick larvae on trees.

If the insect population density is large, insecticides should be sprayed for control.

Top trees are also susceptible to damage by girdinella and longhorn beetles.

(4) Shaping and pruning: Pear trees are generally shaped into a natural open-shaped shape or a sparsely layered shape on the main trunk. The tree shape of the high-joined tree is generally maintained to maintain the original tree shape. The high-jointed saplings should be There is a continuous shaping process. The extended branches of each backbone should be shortened at the full buds, and the cut buds must be retained. If they want to grow outwards, leave the outer buds. If they want to grow left and right, leave the side buds and place the upper buds. erase.

Throw out or lightly prune the developing branches that will become flowers in the next year. The short and medium branches that will become flowers are generally not pruned. If there are long fruit branches and axillary flower buds, if the whole tree has few flowers, the results can be used. If the amount of flowers Sometimes you can cut part of it short.

For the clusters of flower branches formed by throwing them, leave 2 to 4 flower buds and retract them appropriately.

The base branches of tall grafted trees are generally thicker, so new shoots grow vigorously, so pruning is very important in summer. For some upright new shoots, when they grow to 30 to 40 cm, prune them from the base of the branches. Slowly twist half a circle and pin it to other branches to inhibit growth and promote the formation of flower buds in the current year; for strong branches with small space, timely pinch to inhibit growth; for strong branches with large space, remove new shoots Re-topping, usually at the large leaves, can promote branching. However, for most varieties of pear trees, the number of additional branches is limited. Generally, only 1 to 3 branches can be produced. If it is a medium-short branch, the leaves More and larger ones can form flower buds.

For those that stop growing early or grow weakly and need to extend and expand the crown, you can apply high-efficiency branch spray on the stopped terminal buds or leaf buds from early May to early June and induce it twice. For the growth of shoots, for more upright or dense branches, bracing, pulling, separating, and dropping branches can be used to change the angle of the branches to make them oblique or horizontal.

After the new shoots stop growing, you can also soften the branches before supporting and separating them.

In order to expand the canopy and branches and achieve early fruiting, spring bud cutting, summer girdling, and autumn branch pulling can also be used to increase the number of branches and promote the formation of flower buds.

That is, before the buds sprout in the second year after grafting, carve or eye-wound the middle and lower bud eyes of each branch to promote the germination of medium and short branches, increase the number of branches and leaves, and appropriately girdle them in mid-to-late June. , promote flower bud formation.

Stretch overlapping branches and cross branches, and keep the branch angle at about 80 degrees.