(1) Pruning semi-mature seedlings in summer

Immediately after planting, cut the rootstock, and after the grafted buds survive and grow, erase the sprouted buds on the rootstock to prevent the rootstock buds from affecting the growth of the grafted buds. When the grafted bud grows to 2 ~ 3 cm, erect a vertical pole beside the trunk to apply seedlings, so that the new shoots in the center of bud germination grow vertically upward (Figure 5).

fig. 5 After planting, cut the stock, smear the bud (same as fig. 41) and bind the seedlings

When the new shoots grow to 4-5 cm, core the central new shoots (remove 8-1 cm) and promote the secondary shoots (fig. 51).

fig. 51. After the secondary shoot occurs, make the central secondary shoot grow upright. When the length of the other secondary shoots reaches 15 cm, gently flatten the secondary shoot by hand, that is, fold the shoot, so that the secondary shoot forms an angle of 9 with the central secondary shoot. When the secondary shoots grow to more than 3cm, twist and pull the diagonal and vertical secondary shoots to control the secondary shoots to grow excessively thick and vigorously, to ensure the top advantage and bold growth of the central shoots, and to eliminate the excessively long secondary shoots and excessive secondary shoots that weaken the growth of the trunk, with the base spacing of the secondary shoots being 12-15cm (Figure 52).

fig. 52 flattening of secondary shoots

The secondary shoots should not be topped before the end of July, so as to prolong their growth. After the end of July, they should be lightly topped, so as to stop the growth of new shoots and promote the formation of flower buds. Winter pruning is similar to seedling pruning.

(2) Pruning of seedlings in summer

After the seedlings are planted, they will be cut and fixed at a position 6 cm from the ground (leaving 5-7 full buds). After germination, wipe off the buds below 3 cm from the ground on the trunk (Figure 53).

fig. 53, seedling, stem fixation (same as fig. 4) and bud smearing

When the new shoots on the trunk grow to 25-4 cm, the central shoots will grow upright, and the remaining new shoots will be twisted and pulled to make the new shoots form an angle of 8-9 with the central trunk. Twisting, pulling and twisting with thin wire are used to control the overgrowth and overgrowth of new shoots, and every 1-15cm, the new shoots are arranged in rotation from bottom to top, and overgrowth and overgrowth of branches are eliminated. To make the new shoots evenly distributed, 8 ~ 1 new shoots with different directions should be planted on the trunk (Figure 54).

fig. 54. The new shoots are planted on the central trunk

(3) Pruning in winter

For the developing branches without flower buds or the fruiting branches with only 2-4 flower buds at the top, generally, two buds are left short, so that the central trunk can be thickened and the new shoots germinated in the next year are not easy to flourish; Fruiting branches with good flower buds should be cut according to 8-1 flower buds for medium and long fruit branches and 1-12 flower buds for overgrowth fruit branches. Sparse the overgrown branches, delicate branches, pests and diseases, so as to keep the distance between branches of fruit in the range of 2 ~ 25 cm. For the fruiting branches whose thickness is more than 1/2 of the central stem, 1 ~ 2 branches are cut off to keep the growth advantage of the central stem; The cutting length of the extension branch of the central trunk is about 2/3 of the total length.