Woody flowers such as camellia, smile, rhododendron, osmanthus, and Liuxue can also be cut in autumn. Comparative tests were conducted with cuttings in other seasons. The results show that the survival rate of cuttings in autumn is relatively high. Generally, the survival rate of cuttings in autumn is relatively high. They are all around 80% to 90%. The following points should be paid attention to when cutting woody flowers in autumn.

1. Cutting time. The period from cold dew to frost is best, that is, mid-to-late October.

2. Cutting selection. The cuttings are required to be young and have a low degree of lignification, that is, strong young shoots that turn from green to yellowish brown should be used as cuttings. Such cuttings have sufficient nutrients, strong regeneration ability, and are easy to take root. The cuttings are 5 cm to 10 cm long, retain the upper 2 to 3 leaves, and the depth of insertion into the soil is 1/3 to 1/2 of the length of the cuttings.

3. Soil for cuttings. Sandy loam rich in organic matter is the best, it is acidic, loose, and has good drainage and air permeability. Avoid using clay soil as soil for planting beds.

4. Post-insertion management. This is the key to success or failure of cuttings. After inserting, water thoroughly and cover the inserting bed with a transparent plastic film to keep it warm and moisturized. Avoid direct sunlight on the transplanting bed. After 1 week, you can spray water on the leaves, and then keep the soil moist. After 20 days, if the leaves of the cuttings are observed to be strong, straight, and bright green in color, it indicates that the cuttings have survived. After about 40 days, 2 to 3 young roots can be sent out from the internodes. Now that winter has entered, special attention should be paid to insulation and protection from cold winds. The transplanting bed should be moved indoors to keep the bed temperature above 5°C to 10°C. In March of the next year, after the temperature rises, remove the film on the cutting bed, give the cuttings appropriate light, keep the soil moist, and apply light fertilizer. In early to mid-April, when the seedlings have grown 6 to 7 roots, they can be transplanted into pots. Home care of flowers in autumn

After autumn, the temperature gradually drops and the sunshine weakens. For many citizens who like to grow flowers, they need to maintain flowers according to the climate characteristics of this season so that they can survive the autumn and winter smoothly. .

First, enter the room to keep warm. This is the season when most woody flowers, bonsai and southern perennial herbaceous plants should be moved indoors, such as banyan, hibiscus, poinsettia, begonia, cyclamen, monstera, goosefoot, African jasmine, milan, and rubber tree. wait. Because as the temperature difference between day and night increases, the temperature at night decreases. In this case, perennial flowers will convert the chlorophyll in the body into anthocyanins and carotene, producing defoliation. Although the plant will not die, it will cause a large number of fallen leaves or yellowing of the leaves, and lose the ornamental effect.

The second is appropriate water and fertilizer. Potted flowers grow slowly in autumn. For most flowers, it is necessary to control the amount of watering and stop fertilizing from this time to avoid excessive water rotting the roots and excessive fertilizer causing leggy branches and leaves. As for flowers that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as cyclamen, clivia, crab claw orchid, camellia, azalea, etc.

At this time, the dormant period has passed and the peak growth season has begun. Therefore, fertilizer and water management should be strengthened from autumn onwards, and phosphorus and potassium fertilizers can be appropriately applied to facilitate the formation of flower buds.

The third is timely breeding. For annual herbaceous flowers, attention should be paid to collecting and saving seeds. Some biennial flowers, such as pansies, dianthus, cineraria, hollyhocks, etc., are a good time to sow. Pay attention to spraying water after sowing to keep the soil moist. There are also some woody flowers that are suitable for cutting in autumn, such as roses, geraniums, jasmine, etc. The survival rate of cuttings in autumn is higher. Perennial flowers that grow densely and need to be divided, such as peonies, peonies, etc., should be propagated by division in time. Flowers that bloom around the Spring Festival, such as hyacinths, tulips, amaryllis, etc., should be potted as soon as possible.

The fourth is reasonable pruning. Most flowers, such as jasmine, crape myrtle, pomegranate, etc., can be pruned and reshaped in autumn. This can reduce the plant's nutrient consumption in winter and encourage the potted flowers to bloom more the next year. When pruning, remove diseased branches, dead branches, overly dense branches, and leggy branches to lay a good foundation for potted flowers to survive the winter.

The fifth is to prevent and control diseases and pests. Autumn is an important period for preventing and controlling flower diseases and insect pests. Before potted flowers are brought indoors, in order to prevent the source of overwintering diseases and insects, spray pesticides can be used. Application of full-light spray cutting seedling technology in flowers

For many valuable and difficult-to-root excellent flower varieties, the conventional cutting seedling method not only consumes a lot of manpower and material resources, but also has a slow reproduction rate , the survival rate is not high, the quantity is small, and the supply exceeds demand. In order to improve the survival rate of cuttings and reduce the cost of flowers, we use full-light spray cutting seedling cultivation technology, which effectively solves the problem of difficult rooting of flower varieties. The survival rate reaches more than 95%. At the same time, it also shortens the flower cultivation cycle for mass production, which is economical. The benefits are very considerable, and the specific methods are summarized as follows:

1. Establishment of inserting bed and equipment installation

The inserting bed should be located on flat terrain, with good ventilation, sufficient sunshine, convenient drainage and Close to water sources and power sources. Press radius. 6m, 40cm high to make a circular inserting bed that is high in the middle and low around. A drainage outlet is left every 1.5m at the bottom, and a full-light automatic intermittent spray device introduced by the Science and Technology Information Center of the State Forestry Administration is installed in the center of the inserting bed. The device consists of a leaf moisture controller and a symmetrical double long-arm circular scanning spray mechanical system. Spread 15cm of pebbles under the planting bed and 25cm of river sand on top. Spray and disinfect the planting bed with 0.2% potassium permanganate or 0.01% solution of carbendazim before cutting.

2. Cutting time

Late May to mid-September.

3. Cutting varieties

Bougainvillea, jasmine, Milan, rubber tree, Dutch crabapple, fusang, rose, chrysanthemum, bunch of red, marigold, snapdragon and other woody plants , more than 10 kinds of herbs and flowers.

4. Cutting and processing of cuttings

When cutting woody flowers, use annual semi-lignified twigs with leaves as cuttings. When cutting herbaceous flowers, use tapered branches. Micro cuttings of young stems with leaves. When cutting cuttings, first cut off the too young top part of the new shoots, then cut the cuttings into 8-10cm long, leaving more than 2 buds on the upper part, and trim the leaves on the cuttings. For larger leaves, you only need to leave one leaf or less. The leaf area of ??the cuttings is generally about 10 pieces per 2, and for the smaller leaves, 2-3 leaves are left. Note that the upper incision is flat and the lower incision is slightly slanted. There are 50 cuttings in a bundle. Before cutting, soak the cuttings or their parts in 0.01%-0.125% carbendazim solution, and then quickly dip the base into 1000x10 ABT rooting powder for treatment.

5. Cutting and post-cutting management

The cutting depth is 2-3 cm, and the cutting density is 400-500 plants/acre. After cutting, spray once with water immediately, and spray 0.01% carbendazim solution in the morning or evening of the next day to avoid infection. After that, spray once every 7 days. When roots begin to take root, the spray concentration can be o. 1% potassium dihydrogen phosphate. After rooting, spray potassium dihydrogen phosphate at a concentration of 1% to promote lignification of the root system. At the same time, fallen leaves on the seedbed should be removed at any time.

Using this technology to raise seedlings, bougainvillea, jasmine, and milan begin to take root after 25-30 days, with a rooting rate of more than 90%. Rubber tree, fusang, rose, and Dutch crabapple begin to take root after 15-20 days, with a rooting rate of more than 95%. Chrysanthemums, bunch of reds, marigolds, and snapdragons take root in 7-10 days, with a rooting rate of more than 98%.

6. Transplanting

The transplanting time should be after 5:00 pm and before 10:00 am. Transplanting can be done all day on cloudy days. In order to improve the survival rate of transplanting, stop watering for 3-5 days before planting to harden the seedlings. Transplant as the seedlings emerge. After transplanting, place the flowerpot under a sunshade net to shade, and water the second time after 7 days. After 15 days, gradually move them to the sun for daily management and cultivation. The flowers that enter the house in autumn have yellow leaves, which can be solved with one trick

In a blink of an eye, autumn has entered, and the weather has begun to turn cooler. We all put flowers and plants that are maintained outdoors into indoors for continued maintenance. However, after the plants are brought indoors, yellow leaves and other phenomena often occur, and there are even signs of death. Don’t panic at this time!

Generally, the cause of yellow leaves is mainly caused by lack of water. When it comes to the maintenance of household potted flowers, due to the limited space in the pots, the roots cannot extend to other places, and there is insufficient water in the pots. Long-term water shortage will cause symptoms such as yellow leaves and withering of the flowers.

Correct approach

First, move the plants with yellow leaves lacking water to a cool and ventilated place;

Secondly, spray a small amount of water on the leaves of the flowers, and Pour a small amount of water around the roots.

Then, while observing changes in the plant's condition, slowly increase the amount of watering.

Someone will rush to pour water into it after this happens. But this approach is wrong and must not be done. Not only will this not save the plant, it may actually cause the flower to die. Because the root system's water absorption capacity is reduced at this time, only after the plant's root system recovers can its water absorption capacity be slowly restored.

In addition to yellow leaves due to lack of water, as the weather gradually turns cooler in autumn, careful care must be taken in fertilizer management and other aspects to avoid further damage to them.