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How to make the crown of potted osmanthus full?
Method of pruning potted osmanthus tree to make its crown plump

The germination rate of osmanthus fragrans branches is low, and only the 1 terminal bud germinates on the 1 branch, and rarely more than two branches germinate, while the axillary buds around it are mostly in a dormant state, showing a single branch elongation growth state. The young branches are stretched out, forcing the branches to grow in vain, 20 cm short and 50 cm long. After 2-3 years, 1 young branches can reach 60-70cm, and flourishing trees can reach 1m, but the number of branches is very small. It not only affects the shape, but also delays the flowering time.

If you cut the branches to the base, you can force the latent buds to germinate and form more branches. But when the new branches germinate again, they will still extend in the form of single buds, and the original shape will not change much. This paper introduces the method of accelerating germination and pruning, which can make the crown of potted osmanthus seedlings plump. Specific practices are as follows:

(1) Break branches and force buds. When most of the new buds germinated in spring stop growing, all the new buds are broken from the base. If the sapling is more than 3 years old, sometimes, in order to keep the crown balance, 1-2 new shoots can be left at the missing branches, but not too many, otherwise the effect of accelerating germination will be affected. Because the growth advantage of the top of the branch was destroyed, the nutrient growth points were forced to redistribute. In early spring, when the branches are sprouting, it is also the stage of root germination, but suddenly all the new buds are broken, which breaks the growth balance between the roots and branches and promotes the axillary buds around the branches to germinate rapidly. After about 65,438+00 days, they germinated together, 3-5 times or even more than the original new branches. Because there are many new branches, the nutrients are scattered, and the new branches are short and compact, which is conducive to early formation and flowering.

(2) With the above measures, the angle of branches should be adjusted while cutting off buds, so as to enlarge the crown, slow down the top advantage, sprout more, leave room for more budding branches, enhance photosynthesis, and be beneficial to crown expansion.

(3) In the early stage of germination, the buds that are too strong, too weak and too dense should be properly removed to ensure the growth symmetry of new branches.

(4) Only a little liquid fertilizer can be applied during germination, or even no fertilizer is applied, otherwise the new buds will fall off seriously and all previous efforts will be wasted. When the new branches and leaves are basically spread out and the branches stop growing, it is safe to apply appropriate fertilizer and gradually increase the amount of topdressing. This method of forced bud formation can be carried out until the first flowering stage. If the number of branches is too small and too long, this method can be used at any stage. Of course, we should also take appropriate maintenance measures such as water, fertilizer and light to make the crown plump and finalize the design as soon as possible.