Question 2: How to prune the vines? 1. "1,3, 6, 9 ~ 12" The significance of this pruning method is to leave 3 fruiting branches, 6 fruiting mother branches and 9 ~ 12 buds on the canopy surface every1meter. The long spreading tip of a dragon usually stays in the middle and long tip, and retracts once a year, so choose a protruding tip from the back. In garden cultivation, the number of buds is generally a little more, but not more than 15 buds, that is, "1, 3,6,9 ~15".
2. "1, 2, 1" pruning method is suitable for longan, milk and other varieties. Horizontal scaffolding, single dragon stem shaping, hole spacing 1 ~ 1.5 meters, 2 ~ 3 plants per hole, one dragon vine every 50 ~ 60 cm on the frame surface, and the single branch is updated alternately. The meaning of this method is to leave two short branches (1 ~ 2 nodes) and 1 middle branches on the long vine every1m on the scaffold surface, and trim the long branches spread by the dragon with long branches. There are two dragons per 1m wide shelf, which is equivalent to 14 ~ 20 buds, which is equivalent to 12000 ~ 18000 buds per hectare. In semi-arid areas, the sunshine is abundant, the grape branches are not easy to grow in vain, the pruning in summer is strictly controlled, and the flower buds at the base buds are often well differentiated. Generally, each ear weighs more than 0.5 kg, and the yield per hectare can be guaranteed to be 30,000 ~ 37,500 kg. This pruning method is more suitable for young fruit trees.
Third, the pruning of trees in full fruit period.
Trees in full fruit period generally refer to 13 ~ 40 years old trees. During this period, the fruit yield of trees increased year by year, and the vegetative growth gradually weakened. If it is not managed properly, it is easy to have years. Therefore, the main task of pruning is to adjust the relationship between growth and fruiting, improve lighting conditions, maintain tree potential, and obtain high and stable yield.
4. Pruning of aging trees Trees that are 30 to 40 years old have entered the aging period. The main task of pruning is to renew and rejuvenate, restore tree vigor, extend the fruiting period as much as possible, and maintain a good yield. In the specific operation, the trunk and lateral branches should be retracted and raised appropriately according to the degree of weakness. If the central branch group has declined, it should be sawed off from the base to change the crown into a pleasing shape, but the wound should be protected to prevent decay. For aging trees, we should make full use of long branches to cultivate new fruiting branches, at the same time, renew and rejuvenate the original branches, and properly remove too dense flower buds to ensure the vigorous growth of branches.
Verb (abbreviation of verb) is cut again before flowering in bud stage.
From mid-March to early April, for trees with few flowers, when they are cut in winter, they leave more branches because they can't recognize the flower buds. When the flower buds can be clearly identified, the extra branches without flowers should be thinned or retracted appropriately, so that the inner room can be fully illuminated. For trees with poor varieties, high grafting can be started from liquid flow.
Question 3: How to Prune Grapes;
Under the condition of natural laissez-faire, grape plants are densely covered with branches and vines, which are restricted by polarity phenomenon to develop upwards, and the lower part is bald first, and most of the nutrients are consumed in vegetative growth, resulting in few fruits and low quality. Therefore, manual intervention and induction are needed to adjust the bud eye load, unit area and the number and length of fruiting mother branches per plant; Slow down the polar growth of plants, reasonably arrange the growing branches and fruiting branches on the shelf surface to avoid baldness and achieve uniform fruit on the shelf surface; Adjust the relationship between branch growth and fruiting, balance the tree potential, maintain the vigorous growth and fruiting ability of branches, prolong the life and fruiting years of plants, and achieve the goal of high yield.
Pruning too early or too late will lose a lot of stored nutrients, which is not conducive to germination in the second year, supplementary differentiation of inflorescences and new shoot growth. The pruning cycle varies according to geographical location. Generally, pruning in South 12 starts in late February and is completed two months before germination, which can avoid bleeding. Generally, light pruning should be carried out before winter in the cold areas in the north, and supplementary pruning should be carried out in the second year according to the situation to ensure sufficient bud load.
Prune properly according to local climate, soil and cultivation conditions. Because of the different climatic conditions and soil conditions, even the same variety has different pruning degrees. In arid and barren areas, the pruning length should be reduced to ensure the vigorous growth of new shoots and full ears; However, in areas with sufficient fertilizer and water and deep soil layer, the pruning length can be increased. The flower buds on the upper part of the stout branches are well differentiated, and at the same time, due to the large cross-sectional diameter of the branches and the large number of conduits, the ability to absorb and transfer nutrients and water is strong, and the germination rate is high, which can be appropriately extended; On the contrary, the weak branches should be appropriately cut short.
Results The pruning length of mother branch is generally calculated by the number of nodes or bud eyes. Generally, 1 ~ 3 buds are cut into short branches, 4 ~ 8 buds are cut into middle branches, and more than 9 buds are cut into long branches. Pruning with the combination of long, medium and short tips on the same branch is called "mixed pruning". The determination of fruiting mother branches by pruning in winter mainly depends on the heterogeneity of bud eyes at all levels on annual branches, and the heterogeneity of grape bud eyes is related to its varieties, climatic conditions, tree age and growth potential.
Pruning medium and long branches is beneficial to increase the carrying capacity of plants, so that more fruiting branches can be produced in the second year, and excellent fruiting mother branches can be selected from them to improve the carrying capacity. Moreover, new shoots will not be crowded, and occasional injuries can be made up. Pruning of long and middle shoots has great potential to increase production, especially for young and lush trees. However, it also has some shortcomings: for example, uneven germination and baldness on the back; Uneven growth, strong before and weak after; The planting of fruit grains on the ear is sparse, the fruit grains are small and the fruit quality is poor. Varieties suitable for pruning medium and long branches are: longan, milk, Kyoho, Rose fragrance, Heihan, Jialiniang, Golden Queen and so on. Varieties suitable for pruning middle branches and short branches are: Livzon, Guirenxiang, Riesling, Kangtai, Fujiminori, red banana, white banana and so on.
The principles of "one look, two thinning, three cutting and four checking" are mainly mastered in the pruning steps of grapes.
"Look" is the premise and investigation of pruning. First, look at the climate, soil, variety, tree shape, tree potential, and then look at the relationship with neighboring plants to initially determine the plant load, determine the pruning scheme and the number of pruning buds.
"Thinning" refers to removing pests and diseases, thinning branches, dead branches and over-dense branches, locally renewing weak main lateral vines, thinning useless rhizosphere sprouting branches and thinning out the outline.
"Cutting" refers to processing, that is, according to the habits of varieties and various conditions, including tree age, number of frames, tree shape, growth, different parts and different branches, the cutting length of each branch is determined. "
"Check" is the end, that is, after pruning, check whether there are any omissions and check the mistakes.
The following matters should be paid attention to when pruning: 1. When pruning or shrinking the main side vine, we should avoid causing "opposite wounds", try to make several wounds distributed on the same side, and should not be too close to each other. Second, when thinning or shrinking, residual piles should be retained. The length of stump depends on the thickness of vine. Generally, when thinning annual branches, 0.2 ~ 0.3 cm stump should be left. When thinning thick-branched vines, leave 0.5 ~ 1.0 cm residual piles according to the thickness. It is better to apply disinfectant (3% potassium permanganate solution or 0. 1% mercuric chloride solution) and protective agent (stone sulfur mixture) when the regeneration of old vines causes thick wounds (more than 2 cm in diameter). Third, when the annual branches are cut short, the internode elders can leave 2 ~ 3 cm stump on the nodes to prevent the buds from happening. Those with shorter internodes can be cut at the joint diaphragm, which has a great influence on isolating the outside world. The remaining stump was cut off in the second spring when the tip was removed, and the healing was the fastest at this time.
Pruning techniques of grapes in summer
Pruning grapes in winter and summer ... >>
Question 4: How to maintain the vines and prune 1. Look at the variety: different grape varieties have different positions of high-quality bud eyes due to the heterogeneity of buds. Some have to prune long branches with 5-7 buds, some have to prune middle branches with 4-5 buds, and some have to prune short branches with 2-4 buds;
2. Look at the tree shape: trim according to the characteristics of trees such as clumps, cups and fans;
3. Look at the tree potential: the high-quality bud eye position of the tree with strong growth potential is slightly higher, which needs long-shoot pruning, the high-quality bud eye position of the medium-sized tree is slightly lower, and the weak tree should be pruned with medium-shoot and short-shoot;
4. Look at the shelf surface: If the space is large, you can cut it appropriately to supplement the shelf surface. According to the search results, the load capacity of the tree is determined, and the standard of pruning amount is determined. (2) Sparse: It means that diseases and pests are sparse, branches are withered, branches are too dense, the main side vines need to be updated, and the sprouting branches are useless. (3) Shrinking branches: refers to cutting off a section of branches and vines that are more than two years old and leaving a section. The main function of pruning is to renew the tree potential, make the bearing mother branch in a dominant position, prevent the bearing part from moving out and expanding, and improve the light. (4) Pruning: according to the standard of pruning amount, determine the appropriate amount of mother branches, and shorten the annual branches according to the specific situation. In short, seeing is the premise, so we should be conscious to prevent being cut aimlessly. Thinning is a procedure, and an outline should be refined according to the results. Shrinking and pruning are treatments to determine the amount of buds left in each branch and vine.
Second, the pruning matters needing attention
1. When cutting annual branches, the cutting mouth should be 3-4 cm higher than the branch, and the cutting mouth should be slightly inclined to the bud, or cut at the node on the remaining bud to ensure the normal germination and growth of the cutting mouth bud;
2. Don't cut the kerf too close to the vine when thinning the branches, so as to avoid the wound drying inward and affecting the nutrient diversion of the mother branches;
3. When removing the old vine, the incision should be flattened to facilitate wound healing, and the wound should stay on the same side of the main vine as far as possible to avoid counterpart injury;
4. Pruning time should not be too early or too late. Premature nutrients do not return to the roots and main vines, which will affect the tree potential in the coming year; It's too late, the bleeding is serious, the nutrients are lost, and the tree will be affected.
Question 5: How to prune grape branches 1? Pruning principle. Grape is a vine deciduous fruit tree, which needs to be cut once a year in winter when planting. If vines are not pruned for many years, the whole shed will be covered with vines, and the dead branches, over-dense branches, weak branches, slender branches, pests and diseases, and disabled old vines will not be effectively removed, which will disturb the tree shape, affect the ventilation and light transmission between trees, cause the breeding of pests and diseases, and make the flowers and fruits fall off seriously, and there will be no harvest. Grape pruning in winter is to improve the above shortcomings, make the vines healthy and strong forever, and effectively control the upward movement of the resulting parts or the aging and baldness of the main vines behind them. Through pruning technology, the contradiction between aboveground and underground, growth and fruiting can be adjusted, the whole plant growth can be balanced, the fruit yield can be increased, and the quality of grape fruit can be improved.
Second, pruning time. It is more suitable to arrive in beginning of spring after defoliation, that is, from mid-June 65438+February to early February of the following year.
Third, pruning technology. Taking the grape trellis which has been planted for more than four years and each plant accounts for 6- 10 square meter as an example, the pruning method is explained.
1, cut off useless branches. Firstly, the old, weak, residual branches, dead branches, insect branches and slender branches (diameter 0? More than 5 cm), partially overlapping branches, etc.
2. cut the length. In practical application, Gong determined the cutting length according to the growth, position and maturity of different varieties and branches. Results In principle, the pruning of mother branches should be based on the strong, medium and weak annual growth, that is, the strong branches should be kept long, the weak branches should be kept short, the ends should be kept long and the bases should be kept short. As far as the whole tree is concerned, it is necessary to combine long and short pruning, that is, the number of buds left is: long branches with 8 buds, middle branches with 4-7 buds, and short branches with 1-3 buds.
3. The number of branches and buds left by the bearing mother branch. The fruiting mother branch refers to the branch that produces new shoots and bears fruit in the second year. Too many branches will sprout too many new buds, which will affect the ventilation and light transmission of the frame surface and breed pests and diseases. At the same time, too much fruit will weaken the tree and affect the quality and growth of the next year. When pruning, the number of mother branches and buds is different because of the variety, frame type and tree shape. Taking the above-mentioned trellis as an example, 40-70 fruiting branches are usually selected, and it is appropriate to leave 180-300 buds. When pruning, we should also pay attention to make the main vines and their fruiting mother branches evenly distributed on the frame surface.
Fourth, pruning precautions. The diameter of the branches and vines at the cutting mouth should be above 1 cm. When pruning useless branches, they should be completely removed from the base. Cut branches and leaves should be burned or buried in a centralized way. At the same time, combine pruning in winter and apply sufficient organic fertilizer to lay a good foundation for next year's results. Hehe, I hope it helps you ~
Question 6: How to prune the vines? Prune vines
Vine pruning is to adjust the relationship between growth and fruiting, so that the tree shape is complete, the branches are evenly distributed, the subordinate relationship is clear, the shelf surface is fully utilized, which is convenient for the management of various operations, so that young trees can form quickly, bear early fruits, yield early, keep big branches neat, have good ventilation and light transmission, reduce pests and diseases, improve fruit quality and prolong fruiting period. ? According to different pruning time, it can be divided into winter pruning and summer pruning. In the second year, 10 ~ 15 days before the sap begins to flow is called winter pruning, which is usually carried out from late June to early October before freezing. Pruning from spring germination to defoliation is summer pruning.
First, winter pruning? When pruning in winter, the yield base should be determined according to tree shape, tree age, variety, tree potential, site conditions, and plant spacing, and the length of fruiting mother branches and the amount of buds left should be selected. ? 1. Winter shearing period: after the grapes have fallen leaves and before the soil is frozen, bury the soil in the cold-proof area. Grapes should not be taken off the shelf in winter cold-proof areas, but should be taken before germination 1 month. Pruning after the root system starts to move in spring will cause bleeding, thus delaying the germination of bud eyes, so try to avoid pruning during the bleeding period. Pruning in winter during leafless dormancy has many advantages: at this time, branches and vines can be seen clearly, and how much to leave and where to cut them. After defoliation, most of the nutrients in the tree have been stored in the branches and roots, and the waste of nutrients by thinning branches is very small. In winter, the root system does not move, which increases the root canopy, promotes the concentration of nutrients in the reserved branches and buds, improves the quality of spring buds in the next year, and is conducive to germination and further differentiation of flower buds. ? 2. Pruning reaction: Whether the pruning technology is reasonable is the most objective criterion to test the pruning reaction over the years. Therefore, before pruning in winter every year, we should investigate the germination, tillering, length and thickness of new shoots, fruiting branch rate, plumpness of winter buds, fruit yield and quality of the year after pruning last year or the year before, and comprehensively analyze the local and overall responses of pruning techniques to the trees, so as to make this year's pruning targeted. In practice, every vine should be inspected from the base to the top before pruning, and the pruning method should be determined according to the pruning reaction of the tree in the previous year, so as to balance the tree potential, adjust the branch density, and gradually update all kinds of branches, so as to make the crown full, ventilated and transparent, and the branches young and strong, so as to achieve the purposes of high quality and high yield, strong trees and prolonged economic life. ? 3. Pruning procedures: First, plant trees in the same year, then plant trees in the first fruit period of two to three years, and then plant trees in the full fruit period; Main branches first, then bearing branches; Thinning the branches first, then retracting and cutting them short. ? 4. Cutting requirements of annual branches: annual branches are divided into four categories according to the number of buds left: ultra-short branches, short branches, medium branches and long branches. Short-branch pruning is the most widely used in northern China. In southern China, because of the long growing period of grapes, short, middle and long branches are usually pruned to speed up the shaping and crown expansion and achieve high yield in the early stage. One-year-old robust and mature fruiting mother branches should be selected, and those with a thickness of more than 0.8cm and less than 0.8cm should be cut short, leaving only 1 bud to cultivate vegetative branches. The incision should be 3~4cm above the bud eye, leaving an air-drying area to ensure that the bud eye under the incision is not air-dried to facilitate germination on time. In the dry and windy areas in spring, lead oil should be used to seal the incision to prevent the branches and buds from drying up. ? 5. Shrinking and shearing requirements for perennial branches: When the perennial branches are shrunk and sheared, thick branches should be left under the cutting mouth to play the role of renewal and rejuvenation. Retraction pruning of perennial strong branches
Old historical photos reveal what you don't know. ...
In order to weaken vegetative growth and promote flowering and fruiting, moderate branches can be left under the cut, and the strong branches and super branches can be properly drained. ? 6. Requirements for thinning branches: When thinning branches, the cutting mouth should be flush with the mother branch, and should be smooth, without stubble, skin lesions and short piles, so as to facilitate the rapid healing of wounds and minimize the impact on the growth of branches below the cutting mouth. The thinning and cutting of branches in different years should be kept on the same side of the trunk or main vine as far as possible to avoid "mouth injury" and affect the transportation of nutrients and water in the tree. ? 7. Renewal requirements: Renewal mainly refers to the renewal of fruiting mother branches and main lateral vines. Leading to the regeneration of the mother branch. Results The purpose of mother branch regeneration is to prevent the fruit part from rising and moving outward year by year, and single branch regeneration and double branch regeneration are mainly used. Single-branch regeneration means that only 1 fruiting mother branch is left after pruning in winter. After short branches are pruned and germinated, the high-level new branches leave fruit ears and the new branches at the base leave no fruit ears as vegetative branches, so that they can be cultivated into fruiting mother branches in the next year. Pruning fruiting branches and nourishing branches in winter ... >>
Question 7: How to prune the vines We find the following information for your reference: Technical measures for high-yield vines in winter Pruning the vines in winter can make the branches in the crown reasonable, prevent the fruiting parts from moving out, and lay the foundation for stable and high-yield grapes. Winter pruning is generally carried out at the end of June 1 1 to the end of June of the following year 1. Premature pruning will affect the nutrient accumulation of trees, so it should not be postponed until spring to avoid "injury" and weaken the tree potential. First, prune the main branches and vines. After a year's growth, when the grapes fall leaves, there will be many messy branches. First, we should choose the main side vines according to the spacing of 50-60 boxes of meters, and cut all the dense vines, pests and diseases vines, immature vines, old and weak vines and overlapping vines, but not too close to the main branches, so as to avoid the wound drying and shrinking, which will affect the nutrient transport of the main branches. Then the main side vines should be trimmed according to different varieties, and the branches that are too long should be taken back for pruning to make the main side vines uniform. Second, the pruning of fruiting vines. The cutting length of annual lianas varies according to the position, growth and thickness of branches. If the high-quality buds are between the third and fifth buds, the middle and short branches should be pruned, that is, 2-7 buds should be left before pruning. If the high-quality bud is above the sixth bud, long-tip pruning is adopted, that is, 8- 12 buds are left before pruning; For vines with weak growth potential and unclear polarity, medium and long branches are the main ones, leaving 4- 12 buds; Branches and vines grow vigorously, and the polarity is not obvious, mainly medium and long branches, leaving 4- 12 buds. In addition, the strong branches with cutting thickness above 1 box meter can be pruned with 8- 12 buds; Strong branches with a thickness of 0.7- 1 cm should be pruned more, leaving 4-7 buds; Branches and vines with a thickness of less than 0.6-2cm can be trimmed with short branches, leaving 2-4 buds or removed. Third, the residual amount of bearing mother branches. As a result, there are too few mother branches and the yield is low. In this way, if there are too many mother branches, the number of fruit ears will exceed the load capacity of the plant, which will reduce the quality and affect the annual output in the future. Therefore, when pruning, the number of fruiting mother branches should be reasonably determined according to the load capacity of the plant, so as to ensure that the plant can not only achieve high quality and high yield, but also grow strong fruiting mother branches. As for the surplus of fruiting mother branch, we can calculate it according to the following formula: the surplus of fruiting mother branch per plant = expected yield per plant x( 1+20%)/ average weight of ear x average number of ears x average number of fruit branches. Excerpted from Friends of Getting Rich, 2005/ 10 Author Jin Ping's Summer Pruning Method 1 Wipe Buds and Set Shoots. After the grapes germinate, we should choose buds, leave strong and suitable buds and remove useless buds. Summer pruning should be carried out when inflorescence and inflorescence growth can be clearly identified. Remove the branches with poor development, few inflorescences and too dense, and the number of branches left depends on the frame, variety, tree potential and planned yield index. 2. New buds are extracted from the heart. In principle, the time and frequency of coring should depend on the variety, tree potential and pruning method. Picking at flowering stage can stop the growth of new shoots 10 15 d, make nutrients flow to inflorescence, ensure good pollination and improve fruit setting rate. Leaving 4}5 leaves above the inflorescence as stout fruiting branches, leaving 12 20 leaves on the extended branches and 10- 15 leaves on the prepared branches are beneficial to promoting fruit ripening and accelerating lignification of branches and vines. Picking the core in the later stage can improve the ventilation and light transmission conditions of the shelf surface, promote flower bud differentiation and fruit development, enrich the branches and vines and increase the yield. 3 secondary sharp treatment. The treatment of the auxiliary tip varies from place to place. However, in most areas, after the secondary buds germinate, all the secondary buds below the inflorescence are pulled out from the base, and 1-2 leaves are left above the inflorescence for coring. 2-3 leaves can be left on the secondary branch near the top of the vine to pick the core, so as to reduce the possibility of winter bud germination. 4 sparse inflorescences and contracted spikes. This measure has a good effect on regulating plant load, improving fruit setting rate of some varieties, making fruit grains neat and fruit ears compact. It should generally be done two weeks before flowering. Sparse weak and excessive inflorescences, and leaving few inflorescences and few weak branches and leaves. 5 ring peeling. Use a knife or girdling scissors in the middle of the next ear, and peel off the cortex around the branch for 3-5mm. 6 remove the old leaves. The purpose of picking leaves is to improve the lighting conditions near the ear. Some old leaves should be picked to promote fruit coloring. Leaves are usually picked when the fruit is soft. Except tendrils and new shoots. If the tendrils are wound around the frame surface without treatment, it will bring inconvenience to the correct binding, harvesting, winter cutting and off-shelf work of new shoots, and the tendrils also consume nutrients, so they should be pulled out at any time in combination with summer cutting. When the new shoots grow to 30-40cm, tie them to the frame, and pay attention to the uniform distribution to prevent them from being blown off by the wind. With the growth of new buds, it needs to be tied 3-4 times.
Question 8: How should grapes be pruned? Pruning grapes in winter can adjust the relationship between growth and fruiting, make rational use of space and give full play to the potential of trees. Grape pruning in winter in buried cold-proof areas can begin after the first frost and must be completed before the soil freezes; It is advisable to prune in deep dormancy period in cold-proof areas, and do not cover the soil.
(1) Understanding the advantages and disadvantages of different racks is the premise of reasonable pruning. Multi-main vine fan frame is usually suitable for use in buried cold areas, which is characterized by strong early fruiting, flexible application of pruning technology and easy to master; The trunk shape of the shed is a high-yield tree, but the early yield is low; One-arm horizontal and T-shape combine the advantages of hedge frame and shed frame; H-shape is a better posture. According to the advantages and disadvantages of scaffolding, each branch of each tree should be trimmed according to the actual situation. However, no matter what kind of scaffolding is used, the configuration of branches must be completed in the growing period, and the regeneration of branches is mainly in winter cutting.
(2) Different varieties have different cutting methods. Generally, they are mixed-race Europeans and Americans, such as Hutai No.8, Fuji Mino and Gaofu. , easy to bloom, rich in flower buds at the base, high germination rate and seed setting rate, mainly pruning short branches and middle branches; Because the basal flower buds are thin and poorly differentiated, medium and long branches are generally suitable for pruning. On the basis of ensuring appropriate yield, the tree shape is gradually standardized, and those with good pruning techniques can be pruned on the spot. In the buried cold-proof area, the water loss of dead branches caused by freezing injury in winter and spring, and the mechanical damage caused by the underground cold-proof loading and unloading process. It should also be considered that 10%~20% of spare branches can be reserved as a supplement during pruning and treated after germination. If the maturity of pruning is too poor, we should prune the fruiting mother branches or fruiting branches with good maturity as much as possible, keep long branches, strengthen fertilizer and water management in the second year, increase part of the yield and avoid too few fruits.
(3) Pruning countermeasures under abnormal climate conditions.
(1): For example, the weather was warm in the early winter of the year before last, and the temperature dropped sharply in the late winter, which lasted for a long time, causing serious freezing damage; Last year was dry in early spring, hot in summer and rainy in autumn. These harsh climates make the nutrient accumulation of trees poor, the vitality of trees weak, and some vineyards lack water and fertilizer, and their management is extensive or overloaded.
(b) Too many branches and leaves, closed trees, few functional leaves and insufficient nutrient accumulation.
(c): or because of the limitation of the shelf, the buds at the base of the fruiting branches are often used for fruiting, and the inflorescence is thin, the size and grain are serious, and the vegetative growth is vigorous. These problems need to be corrected during pruning.
For better managed trees, appropriate adjustments can be made on the basis of leaving branches and fruits in the previous year. Take the horizontal frame with single stem and two arms as an example, the plant spacing is 1m×2.5m, and the suitable number of branches for 667 is 4000. Leave 8 ∽ 1 2 branches on the1frame surface (equipped with preparatory branches), cut off 1∽2 buds, update 2 preparatory branches year after year, update branches without any preparatory branches, and use the pruning method of "3 nodes above and 6 nodes below".
For trees with weak growth, if the tree has been seriously weakened, it can only be reshaped with new buds. For trees with thin branches and small inflorescences, the first task should be to restore the tree's vigor, prune it so that the leaves are short and not long, and at the same time it must be supplemented by scientific management.
(4) Application of specific pruning techniques. Prepare hand saws, fruit tree shears and grindstones before pruning. Fruit shears must have sharp edges and no gaps. When thinning thick old vines with a hand saw, the cut and branches must be at right angles, smooth and tidy. A short pile must be left above the cutting (sawing), and it is best to cut (sawing) horizontally in the middle of the diaphragm of a bud hole before cutting. Comprehensive consideration is given to factors such as tree age, planting density and yield management level. See clearly the tree before cutting (sawing). Generally speaking, from bottom to top, from the middle to both sides, first thin branches, pests and diseases, greedy branches, leave a few short piles when thinning branches. It is best to apply it with antifreeze. For mature fruiting branches (high-quality fruiting branches, short internodes, bulging nodes, full bud eyes, no pests and diseases, yellow-brown or purple-brown), it is appropriate to lengthen them, and vice versa. The suitable cutting diameter of European and American species is 0.6∽ 1. 1, and that of Eurasian species is 0.8∽ 1.2. Arid and rainless areas can be more flexible. A well-positioned whole bud must remain under the incision.
For seedless grape cultivation, the cutting thickness should be above 1.0, and the pruning is mainly short or short branches, with 8∽ 10 fruit branches per square meter.
For those plants with good maturity and insufficient space between adjacent plants, long branches or super-long branches can be used for pruning, or pressed branches for propagation. Generally, ultra-short branches leave 1 bud, short branches leave 2∽4 buds, middle branches leave 5∽7 buds, and long branches leave 8∽ 1 1 bud. Prune the extra-long branches above 12 buds. It's easy to have long pruning ... >>
Question 9: How to prune the vines to get more fruits? First, when pruning and updating long branches in winter, cut off more than 7 bearing branches. Don't put the extended branches that have climbed up the shed surface, but replace them with new branches near the lower part. These new shoots should be pruned with long branches, and all the original branches on the upper part should be thinned out, or only the middle branches should be pruned without thinning the original heads until the fruits in the next year are thinned out.
2. Short branches are pruned and the fruiting mother branches of earthworm-like pruning are updated, and 1-3 nodes are pruned in winter, and the fruiting mother branches produce fruiting branches in the second year. When pruning in winter, select the lower robust branches as regenerated branches and prune them with short tips. All the branches on it have become sparse. It is best to cut the mouth in one direction every year to reduce the obstruction of the wound to the transport of nutrients in branches and vines.
3. Pruning of medium and long branches and regeneration of double branches. Leave a preparatory branch with two nodes just below the medium-long mother branch. When the medium and long mother branches complete the fruiting task, they are all cut off. Among the two new branches growing from the preparatory branch, the one near the top is considered as the fruiting mother branch of the next year. Prune with medium and long branches, leaving two buds below as spare branches. Hedge pruning is often updated in this way in this annual cycle. In order to delay the upward movement of the fruit part, a small number of short branches should be left in different parts of the main vine. When pruning in summer, try to keep the new shoots in the lower position, and retract them properly when pruning in winter.
Four, the middle tip pruning number 4-6 knots, pruning method and update as above.
Fifth, the perennial main vine is renewed. The main vine bears fruit, and the buds are good materials for renewal. When cutting in winter, try to keep 8- 10 knots, and then choose 3-4 new vines in the upper part in the second year, and the old vines will be recovered. When the new vines reach the required length, the old vines are cut off from the base.