It seems that you want a machine tool. Steel for outdoor knives depends on the requirements, the most basic hardness, toughness, sharp retention and rust resistance. Die steel or even powder alloy can be used for high hardness, 8CR 13MOV and 440C for low hardness and T 10 for low rust prevention. Of course, these are excellent heat treatment techniques, and it is impossible to make a good knife without heat treatment. A large number of blank shapes can be used as blanking dies and trimmed by hand with an angle grinder. Be careful not to overheat and anneal. The bevel of the blade belly can be ground with a grinder, and pay attention to adding water. During arc cutting, turn your arm and wrist to keep the normal of the cutter edge parallel to the grindstone, and the included angle between the cutter body plane and the grindstone is 15~20 degrees (outdoor cutter angle is large). Pay attention to the choice of grindstone, and add water or oil for grinding. When you say hand guard, do you mean that you need to drill holes in the material to cover the knife body, and the shape is ground? The material can be 304 stainless steel or nickel alloy. Although brass looks good, it is not durable. Sweat tends to leave a corrosive color on it and needs to be polished frequently. The requirement for the handle material is that the contact surface with the knife body is hard and not easy to absorb water and deform. Mahogany, rosewood, bamboo chips, ox bones and antlers are all acceptable. As for the equipment, it is best to have belt sander, such as angle grinder, bench drill or hand drill, grinder, constant temperature electric furnace (heat treatment), water pump (for pumping cooling water), hand saw, vice, G-clamp, file, grindstone with various meshes, fine sandpaper and emery cloth. When using electric machinery, because friction generates a lot of heat, it leads to annealing, and the hardness and toughness are greatly affected, so it is necessary to add cooling water when using electric tools. The electric drill can drop a little cutting oil, and it is best not to shape (except the cutting edge) after heat treatment. After heat treatment, the hardness is obviously improved. If you cut and grind again at this time, the tools will be destroyed at first, the time will be wasted at second, and the annealing will be easier at third. You can only buy heat-treated steel slowly. Adding excessive cooling water is helpful to improve the grinding speed.

I said so much, but I just said that I need you to do more. Patience is the first secret. It is normal to spend more than half. Which knife maker didn't spend a few knives? Tip: Power tools are efficient and easy to make mistakes. If you don't make good use of them, don't use them in fine work. If you shake hands, it may cost you. Make a big sample first, and take the rest of the manual slowly.

Moreover, after heat treatment, the hardness is high, but it is very brittle. Speaking of die steel, powder steel and high-speed steel, you can't knock with a sledgehammer, it will break. The longer the knife, the harder the blade. Materials with hardness higher than HRC62 are only suitable for making knives within 300mm, and the heat treatment process and blade edge of the blade are different. There are plenty of great gods on the internet, so look around more.