Summer pruning: short cutting, thin cutting, long laying and retraction.

(1) Short cut: Cutting off part of annual branches is called short cut. There must be leaf buds when the short branches are cut. The function of short cutting is to reduce the number of leaf buds and flower buds on short cutting branches, strengthen the growth ability of new shoots of short cutting branches, reduce the branch position and enhance the branch ability.

Light and short cutting: cut off 1∕5 less than the total length of annual branches. The new shoots sprouted in the following year have weak growth potential, but there are many new shoots, which are mostly used to cultivate medium, short and bouquetlike fruit branches. Or increase the number of fruiting branches and control the growth of new shoots after lightly cutting strong fruiting branches.

Medium and short cuttings: cut off 1∕2 of the full length of annual branches, and all the buds under the cuttings are full. The new shoots germinated in the second year have strong growth potential, and a large number of robust new shoots are extracted, which are mostly used to prune the extension branches of the main side branches.

Heavy and short pruning: 2∕3~3∕4 of the total length of annual branches are pruned, and the plumpness of buds under the cutting mouth is poor, but the pruning amount is large, so the new shoots germinated in the second year have strong growth potential, but the number of new shoots is small, which is mostly used to control the pruning of strong branches.

Extremely heavy and short cut: cut off more than 5∕6 of the total length of annual branches, and the branches sprouting in the second year are weak. This cutting method is mostly used to cultivate fruit branches with developing branches and overgrown fruit branches.

(2) thinning the branches from the base, which is called thinning, also called pruning. Thinning branches can reduce the density of branches in the crown, improve the ventilation condition of the crown, make the storage nutrition in the tree relatively concentrated and promote the growth of new shoots; Pruning will inhibit the upper part of the wound and promote the lower part of the wound. Removing useless twigs, diseased branches, clustered branches, overlapping branches and shady branches can promote the growth of the remaining branches.

(3) Let the annual branches grow naturally without pruning. Long-term planting can keep the most buds on branches and slow down the growth of new shoots in the next year. Too long fruiting branches or long fruiting branches with excessive growth potential will weaken the apical dominance and promote the formation of short and medium fruiting branches.

(4) Internal contraction refers to the short cutting of perennial branches, also known as reduction. Retraction can reduce the total length of branches, concentrate nutrients and water on the remaining branches, promote the growth of lower branches, and be beneficial to the rejuvenation of trees. Its function is to improve the light conditions in the crown, reduce the fruiting position, change the extension direction and angle of the extension branches, control the crown and prolong the fruiting period.

Problems needing attention in pruning peach trees

1. After pruning, the cut of the branch should be smooth, with a 45-degree slope with the cut bud, and cut down from the opposite side of the bud, with the top of the slope flush with the cut bud tip and the lowest part flush with the bud base, so that the cut wound is small, easy to heal, and the bud grows fast after germination. Cut off the opening of thinning branches, cut off at the branch point, and leave no stump even on the stem.

2. When pruning larger branches and trunks, the split operation method can be adopted. First, cut the kerf upward from the lower part of the branch at a position 20 cm above the required kerf, the depth is half of the thickness of the branch, and cut the branch from the upper part, leaving a residual pile, and then saw off the residual pile from the kerf to avoid splitting the branch.

3. In order to prevent the branches from rotting due to rain or bacteria invasion, the kerf must be smooth, disinfected with 20% copper sulfate solution, and finally coated with protective agent (protective wax, ready mixed paint, etc.). ) prevent corrosion and drying, and promote healing.

(Source quoted from "Questions and Answers on Key Technologies of Peach Production", China Agricultural Publishing House; Peasant workers 2009+0438+0

Summer pruning technique

(1) In the foliage stage (3~5 cm), the competitive buds of strong branches and extended branches from the upper part of the back of main branches and lateral branches, on the trunk and near the big incision were all erased. Remove double buds, leaving single buds, dry branches, branches of diseases and insect pests, waste buds, and reduce long fruitless branches. The sprout of rootstock should be cut off as soon as possible. By removing sprouting and smearing buds, useless new shoots can be reduced, nutrition can be concentrated, and the remaining branches can be fully developed, and flower buds and leaf buds are full. Sprouting can improve the light condition of the crown, greatly reduce the workload of pruning in summer and the damage caused by pruning branches in summer.

(2) Peeling is easy to produce branches, and peach trees themselves have a large number of secondary branches, which are more likely to cause too many secondary branches and close the crown. At present, except for young tree pruning, the main lateral branches need to be cored, and peach tree pruning in summer generally does not advocate new shoots.

(3) When new shoots are semi-lignified, there is room for twisting and competing branches near the extension branches of main branches and lateral branches, such as strong long branches and upright branches becoming lateral branches or large and medium-sized fruiting branches, and the long branches with few fruits or the parts of main branches that are easy to get sunburned.

(4) Changing the growth direction of 60 cm long lateral branches by taking branches at high temperature.

(5) Branches with too dense main branches and fruiting branches can be thinned from the base, and attention should be paid to not thinning too many branches at one time, and the amount of thinning should be controlled at 1/3 of the number of new shoots in the thinning part.

(6) Before 6 months of ultra-short shearing, the base 1~2 nodes of long-legged branches with space on the main side can be ultra-short sheared to cultivate small and medium-sized fruit branches.

Autumn scissors

After September, the new shoots did not elongate, and the growth was basically in a semi-stop state. Trees are not sensitive to pruning, and the light green parts at the top of new branches continue to grow, constantly consuming nutrients made by old leaves. Cutting off the light green shoots of the branches in that year can save nutrients and promote the development and enrichment of the branches themselves, flower buds and leaf buds. Retract the clustered branches by 1/3, properly remove the clustered branches with shading on the periphery, open the light path, promote the development and enrichment of the inner cavity branches, and apply protective agent through large incision to promote healing. The planned dense planting garden can be cut down.

Ring cutting and ring stripping

For long or temporary branches with vigorous growth, ring cutting (peeling) can be carried out. Annual ring cutting (stripping) will obviously weaken the growth potential of trees above the annual ring stripping point. The fruit weight can be significantly increased when the fruit is young, and the sugar content of the fruit can be significantly increased (by 2%~3%) before the fruit is mature, so that the fruit surface can be colored. Ring stripping is easy to cause gum flow, so it is forbidden to do it on the trunk of peach trees, and it should be used with caution on the main side branches. It is best to leave a nutrition channel for peach tree girdling, or stick it upside down after peeling it completely. The girdling range is generally110 of the branch diameter, and the girdling part should be wrapped tightly with colored plastic film immediately after peeling; The trunk or branches of peach trees can also be wrapped with iron wires with a diameter of 1 ~ 2mm, but they must be released at harvest.