Clothing folklore refers to people's customs and habits in clothing, shoes and hats, wearing and decoration. Clothing, like diet, is inseparable from everyone.

Times, climate and even people's status, occupation, gender and age have a direct impact on clothing, so clothing folklore also has a very wide range of content. In order to adapt to the change of seasons, people made all kinds of clothes, such as single clothes, double clothes, cotton-padded clothes and leather clothes. In order to decorate and beautify life, different hairstyles, jewelry and wearing methods were created according to different genders and ages in different periods; In order to distinguish different occupations, different styles of professional clothes have appeared, so that people can clearly see the identity and occupation of the wearer.

Living standard plays an important role in costume folklore. In the old society, most farmers in Qingdao only had two sets of clothes a year (one single coat and one cotton-padded coat) and had to sew for another three years, not for thrift, but because they were poor. Dressing is just to protect the body from the cold, not to mention the decorative and aesthetic functions. After the 1950s, farmers began to wear knitted or plain underwear, and clothing fabrics were constantly updated. After the reform and opening up, with the improvement of people's living standards, various styles of clothing compete for beauty. People's clothing is no longer simply to keep out the cold, but more to beautify their lives, and they choose and wear it from many aspects such as style, material and color.

Hats Before the Revolution of 1911, men often wore melon-skin hats, commonly known as "half hats" or "melon skins", which were named after being shaped like half a watermelon. Guapi hat is made of many pieces of silks and satins that are pointed at the top and wide at the bottom, and decorated with eggs or flannel (called "cap gourd"). Red top ornaments are worn by young people; The top ornaments worn by middle-aged and elderly people are blue; If there is a funeral at home, the top decoration is wrapped in white cloth.

Felt hat, also known as "felt hat head", is worn by farmers and traders in cold weather. The hat is divided into three parts: left, right and back. It turns into a round hat head. When it is folded down, it can cover the cheeks and the back neck, mostly brown.

"Old people's head music" is a kind of hat that the elderly love in winter. It is also called "Reuters Hat" or "Reuters". The hat is cylindrical, and it is a soft tire wool hat when rolled up; When rolled down, it can completely cover the face and back neck, only revealing the eyes. Because of the excellent cold protection effect, young people also wear more.

In order to keep out the cold, men wear earmuffs when they go out. Earmuffs are made of blue and black silk, padded with cotton, sewn with rabbit hair at the edge, tied with a rope in the middle and hung on the ear. Some people call it "earmuffs".

Top hats have been popular among people since the 1920s, and they are often paired with robes.

Farmers and market workers wear Wei Li in summer. Hexagonal, made of reeds or sorghum, with a cloth belt tied under the chin to shelter from the sun and rain. In summer, city men wear straw hats or straw bowler hats.

Most young and middle-aged women don't wear hats. Some elderly women wear a kind of "hoop hat" called headband, which is made of two pieces of flannel about 6 cm wide and then tied with two small belts on their heads. The other is a soft hat made of black velveteen, and the front of the hat is decorated with green glass "hat beads", which is called "wife hat"

"Tiger hat" is a hood worn by children under 7 years old. It's short in front and long in back. A pinch of white rabbit hair is sewn on both sides of the top of the hat, and the word "Wang" is embroidered in the middle. Laoshan folk believe that there are many wild animals in the mountains, which are easy to hurt children. The tiger is the king of all animals. Wearing a tiger hat can eliminate disasters and take refuge.

After the founding of New China, "cadres' hats" became popular, but "casual hats" were ignored. The reason is that people wear this kind of hat in dramas, movies and even folk yangko, so people call it "spy hat".

Military caps were particularly popular in the early days of the Cultural Revolution, and some young people were proud of wearing green military caps.

In the 1980s, with the enhancement of people's aesthetic consciousness, hats played an increasingly prominent role in decorating and beautifying life besides their practical functions. Single hats, cotton hats and straw hats with different styles and colors compete with each other, which makes the clothing culture more colorful.

Hairstyle After the Revolution of 1911, men cut off their long braids and rural people shaved their heads, commonly known as "monk heads". People in cities and towns have more hair, including flat hair and split hair, and split hair has straight hair, slant hair and back hair.

Women's hairstyles have been "bun" since childhood, that is, the double bun on their heads. When you grow up unmarried, tie a long braid, tie it a little with a rope and hang it behind your back. After marriage, you put it in a bun, put it in a net, and put it behind your head, which is called "ever-changing" Old people have sparse hair, which is called "parallel".

Boys' hairstyles, some with a hair on their foreheads and the rest pushed out, are called "tile eaves".

In the 1940s, young and middle-aged women often cut their hair short, commonly known as "long hair". Among married women in Jimo and Laoshan, a hairstyle with prominent forehead hair was once popular, called "flying nose".

In the early days of liberation, double braiding was a fashion. Some people think that the longer the braid, the better it looks, and the longest braid can hang to the ground.

In the 1970s, the number of people with short hair increased, and some people tied a short braid on each side of their heads, which was called "tying two brushes". Putting your hair behind your head, the masses call it "crow's tail".

In the 1980s, perming was very popular. When it first spread to the countryside, peasant women used to call it a "crow's nest". Perms are very common now, and hairstyles are becoming more and more diverse.

In the Qing dynasty, rich people wore robes and mandarin jackets. The coat is a small half-length coat with horseshoe sleeves, and the cuffs are turned out when wearing it. Women wear right-handed coats with long skirts or fat pants. Generally speaking, both men and women wear coarse cloth and short clothes, commonly known as "changing clothes". Jackets are divided into three categories: single shirts (also known as "small coats"), cotton-padded jackets and cotton-padded jackets. Men's jackets are double-breasted, with two rectangular pockets at the left and right sides of the lower end and a button arranged, which is called "snap button". Women's coats are all big breasts, which can cover the whole chest from left to right. Old people also like to tie their legs with a cloth belt about 10 cm wide, which is called "leg belt" and is mostly black.

After the 1920s, mandarin jackets were gradually eliminated, but robes and gowns (also known as "gowns") were still very popular and were commonly used by intellectuals, businessmen and squires. Wearing a top hat and a formal dress is the best dress for friends and etiquette. It was not until the 1950s that the gown was gradually eliminated. Today, rappers rarely wear it on stage.

Since the 1920s, cheongsam has also been popular. In the 1940s, blue cheongsam made of Ren Dan Shilin cloth was very popular among young students.

In the 1950s, most men wore Chinese tunic suits and student suits. Wear cotton-padded clothes or woolen overcoats in winter (rural people used to call woolen overcoats "big coats") and uniform shorts in summer. Women mostly wear Lenin clothes and dresses, but they are not popular for a long time. Wearing a short coat in winter, the hat and coat together, cotton and leather, are called "cotton monkey" and "leather monkey" respectively. Farmers still wear casual clothes and trousers, and the cloth has been improved, and the homespun is gradually eliminated, and corduroy is very common. Spring and autumn shirts and sweaters are also widely worn.

In the 1960s and 1970s, the blended fabrics of chemical fiber and cotton were smooth, and patched clothes basically disappeared. In the 1980s, more men and women wore suits, and the colors of all kinds of clothes changed from gray, yellow and blue to colorful.

In the 1990s, clothing styles became more diversified, and people pursued styles and trends. Suits, jackets, spacesuits, T-shirts, hunting clothes, furs and other colorful clothes. The clothes of the elderly also attach importance to styles and pursue bright colors.

In addition to common clothes, there are some folk clothes suitable for people of different ages.

"Tight-fitting", a kind of red underwear, has many buttons and is worn close to the upper body. It is necessary for young women before marriage and should be worn for a period of time after marriage.

"Belly pocket" is also a kind of underwear for young women. It is square, the upper part is shallow semicircle, the lower part is rounded, there is a cloth belt around the waist, and the bag surface is embroidered with pomegranate, peach and other auspicious patterns. Children wear it in summer, too.

"Pants", also called "pants", are a kind of open-crotch cotton trousers worn by the elderly. Hips and upper thighs are bare and worn outside pants.

"Hundred Clothes", also known as "Hundred Clothes", is made of various kinds of cloth from hundreds of beggars for children to wear. The old custom holds that children who wear "hundred clothes" are easy to support.

Shoes, socks and cloth shoes have been popular in Qingdao for more than 0/00 years, and they are still loved by people, especially the elderly, because they are comfortable and light to wear. Cloth shoes are generally round head, round mouth, cloth cover and cloth bottom. When making, you have to go through many processes such as rubbing hemp rope, connecting soles, making uppers and pushing shoes. In the old society, the new wife had to make a pair of new shoes for everyone in her husband's family when she entered the door. Her husband's family commented on her cleverness in needlework. Now mechanical commodity shoes are everywhere, and few people make their own shoes.

From 1930s to 1940s, embroidered shoes were very popular among peasant women. Embroidered shoes also have a cloth bottom, a cloth surface and a round mouth. Only the toe and vamp are embroidered with patterns of plum blossom, orchid, lotus flower and chrysanthemum with silk thread, which is necessary for newly-married women.

In the past, several kinds of boots and shoes made by the people, which were practical and unsightly, were welcomed by farmers.

Pigskin boots (commonly known as "pigskin tie") are made of whole pigskin, which is filled with cattle and wool, which is both cold-proof and non-slip. It is said that these boots originated in the Warring States period. Sun Bin, a strategist of Qi State, made the first pair of over-the-knee boots from animal skins to protect the injured leg whose patella was removed, and used them in combat. Qi people followed suit and handed it down.

The boiling leather strap takes the outer belt of the tire as the sole and the curtain cloth as the upper. Because of its durability and low price, farmers in mountainous areas such as Laoshan and Jimo wear it more.

Master shoes are made of hard leather in front of shoes with single or double tendons, which are called "single beam master shoes" and "double beam master shoes" respectively. Because it is shaped like a grappling hook, it is also called "grappling shoe". The front of the shoe is hard and strong, which can protect the toes when kicking hard objects. Mountain people in Pingdu area wear more clothes.

There are also tiger-headed shoes worn by children, which, like tiger-headed hats, are intended to eliminate disasters.

Now farmers generally wear rubber shoes when they work, and visit relatives and friends to wear leather shoes on holidays. In towns, leather shoes, boots and travel shoes are very popular, and there are many styles.

In the past, farmers wore cloth socks, mostly "small homespun" woven by hand spinning wheels. They are durable, but rough and heavy. Later, machine-made thread socks were introduced, which became popular quickly because they were comfortable to wear. Thread socks are not strong and break easily. When they are broken, they should be repaired with rags. Nowadays, people generally wear nylon stockings, but fine thread socks are also very fashionable.

In the past, women wore earrings, hairpins, bracelets, necklaces and rings. Earrings, commonly known as "pendants", usually wear a pair of small round earrings, also known as "circles", and wear long pendants on festivals and ceremonies. Some men

Bracelets are also very popular with people. Adults wear patterned flat bracelets. Children wear round shapes, and there are two small round beans at the butt joint to avoid damaging the skin and flesh. Some of them tied a pair of small bells on their bracelets, and the children shook their little hands, making a lot of noise and fun. The child still has a lock, which means that it is easy to raise a locked child. Baijiasuo (also called "Changshou Lock") is a must-have accessory for children over 100 days.

In the old society, most people's ornaments were made of silver except for gold bracelets, gold pendants and gold rings owned by the rich and official families. In recent years, wearing gold rings and earrings is very common, and gold necklaces, bracelets and anklets have also entered the homes of ordinary people.

In costume folklore, there are many taboos in the colors, styles and production methods of costumes. If children can't wear bright colors such as red, yellow and green when mourning, they can only wear plain colors such as white, gray and black; Wedding, childbirth, Chinese New Year and other festive days are forbidden to wear white, and some taboos are related to homophonic. For example, it is forbidden to use satin as a shroud, and "satin" is homophonic with "broken" for fear of losing children and grandchildren.

Black, even the shirt worn by the groom does not need white cloth when getting married; Clothes hem can't have burrs, and those with burrs are mourning clothes, which is unlucky to wear.

In the folk, many customs think that even numbers are auspicious, but clothes buttons prefer single buttons to double ones, saying that "four or six don't make a talent" will affect the success of the wearer's career.

Don't wear clothes to mend them if they are torn or buttons fall off. If you need to mend it on your body, the person who is sewed should have a piece of grass in his mouth, saying that this needle will not prick people.

Men also avoid walking under women's trousers hanging in the air, saying that this will hinder men's luck, which is actually a manifestation of contempt for women.

The child only wore a small pendant on his left ear, saying that he was "dragging" to feed.

Married women wear hairpins, which are inserted in the code when combing their hair. Hairpins are usually flat, with the upper part slightly curved and the lower part gradually tapering. There is also a needle-shaped hairpin with beads or beads embedded in its head.