Propagation method of camellia
1. Cutting propagation: In the rainy season from May to June, when the temperature is 20-25℃ and the relative humidity is 82-85%, the survival rate of semi-lignified spring shoots is higher, and the survival rate of summer shoots is higher in September. It is better to mix sand in the middle soil of yellow loam for bed cutting, and the proportion of mixed sand is generally 25-50%. Use thick branches with heels, 5-8 cm long, and leave 2-3 leaves on the upper part. Cut off half of the leaves before cutting, or use branches with one leaf and one bud 3 cm long. After cuttage, it is necessary to build a shed to shade and moisturize, and often spray water on the leaves to keep the humidity above 80% and the temperature around 25℃.
2. Cutting propagation of leaves: the cutting bed is made of mountain soil, which can be mixed with one third of river sand to facilitate ventilation and drainage. In the rainy season, annual leaves are cut off as cutting materials and inserted into the soil about 2 cm deep. After cutting, compact the soil, fill it with water, and then put it in a cool and ventilated place. Generally, roots can grow in three months and branches can grow in the second year.
3. Grafting propagation: Camellia oleifera, Camellia safflower and Camellia Camellia are generally used as rootstocks, and grafting methods include single bud cutting, abdominal cutting, splitting and T-bud grafting.
cultivate
1, flowerpot selection: it is best to choose a pottery pot for camellia potted plants, because the pottery pot has good ventilation and drainage, and the purple sand pot has poor ventilation and water permeability. The pot should not be too small or too big, and it should match the size of the seedlings. The diameter of the bowl 10- 12 cm is used for small seedlings, and 16- 18 cm is used for large seedlings.
2. Cultivation soil: The requirements for potted soil are stricter than those for open cultivation. Acidic sandy loam rich in organic matter should be selected, generally mixed with 6 parts of yellow soil, 3 parts of river sand, decomposed compost 1 part, or mixed with 4 parts of yellow soil, 4 parts of humus soil and 2 parts of yellow sand.
3. Potting: transplant potted plants to the next year before germination in late autumn. Cover the broken pot with the drain hole at the bottom of the pot, then add coarse sand, fine sand and culture soil, plant the seedlings in the pot, and then fill the pot with fine soil. Gently shake the flowerpot and compact it by hand, so that the pot soil is closely connected with the roots. After planting, water it and put it in a basin. After the basin is put away, water should be poured for the first time, and the water flowing from the bottom of the basin should be appropriate and always kept moist. You can enter normal management after two months.
operate
1. Water and fertilizer management: Camellia likes fertilizer but is not tolerant to it. The principle of fertilization is thin and diligent application, combined with water and fertilizer. Water and fertilizer are mainly used in dry season and dry fertilizer is mainly used in rainy season, so it is not advisable to apply too much fertilizer. Generally, 0. 1-0.2% urea aqueous solution is sprayed during the sprouting period of new shoots from vernal equinox to Qingming. When the lignified terminal bud of the new shoot forms the flower bud differentiation stage, Grain Rain sprays 0. 1% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 0.2% urea aqueous solution to Xiaoman, and sprays 8g 0. 1% urea and 5g potassium dihydrogen phosphate and 2g15kg boric acid aqueous solution every 7-/0 days during the bud expansion stage.
Water should be poured thoroughly at one time, keep the soil moist, apply less nitrogen fertilizer and more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to prevent the growth from being too fast. Camellia was fertilized before and after flowering, and the leaves turned yellow before topdressing, indicating that fertilizer was insufficient. If the leaves are dark green or drooping, it means that the fertilizer is enough and you can stop fertilizing.
2. Pruning and shaping: Camellia should not be pruned intensively. It must be pruned as early as possible at the seedling stage to make it grow more branches, so as to remove too dense delicate branches and branches that disturb the crown, as well as branches of pests and diseases, dead branches and buds that do not need to be preserved in time after germination. Starting from August, bud picking and flower thinning were carried out, and too many thin and underdeveloped buds were removed. 8- 1 branch = one bud per leaf, generally two buds per branch. Pick the residual flowers in time after the flowers wither.