Late cherry blossoms in Japan are large, double petals, bright colors, fragrant smells and long flowering periods, and are excellent varieties of cherry blossoms. Its grafting propagation is slow, the operation is complicated, and hard branch cutting is difficult to take root. Using vermiculite as substrate and annual branches with buds in full bloom as cuttings, the survival rate is very high. Specific practices are as follows:
1, substrate: Using expanded vermiculite as substrate, keeping pH 6.2, the temperature of vermiculite seedbed is 2℃ to 3℃ higher than that of soil bed at night, but it is 1℃ to 2℃ lower than that of soil bed at noon, which shows that vermiculite seedbed has small temperature difference between day and night, large accumulated temperature and good heat preservation effect, which is beneficial to root growth. In production, granular vermiculite is the best and has good permeability, which is conducive to rooting. Powder vermiculite has high viscosity and poor air permeability. Don't mix soil in vermiculite when raising seedlings, otherwise the roots will rot easily.
2. Cutting time: April to July. The survival rate of cherry cutting is the highest in full bloom, and the plant is at the peak of physiological activity, which is easy to take root. Cutting was cut on April 28th, and seedling emergence was not delayed after transplanting on June 28th. Five days later, a new bud of 0.5 cm grew. After four years of cultivation, the tree was full of flowers.
3. Selection and treatment of cuttings:
(1) Selection of cuttings: Cut branches with the length of 15cm from the robust mother tree, with annual branches at the upper end and annual branches at the lower end. Leaves on new shoots can make nutrients, annual branches are lignified, and cuttings are easy to survive. Most cuttings of 3-6 year-old branches rot and die. The survival rate of cuttings is related to age. The older the branches, the weaker their physiological functions, and the more difficult it is to survive.
(2) Cutting treatment: Before cutting, remove the leaves inserted with vermiculite and keep the upper leaves. Quickly dip the cuttings with 1000ppm NAA. That is, insert the base of the cuttings into 1000ppm NAA solution for 2 ~ 3cm, then immediately take out the cuttings and dip them.
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4. Cutting method: Build a seedbed with 2-3cm river sand and 15cm thick vermiculite at the bottom of the seedbed. The seedbed is 20cm high and 1m wide (the length depends on the number of cuttings). Install 1 centrifugal sprinklers every 1 meter, or connect the sprinkler rod to the tap water pipe for spraying. A shade shed will be built at the beginning of May, and branches will be used as fences around it to keep out the wind. In order to keep warm and moist, the seedbed can also be covered with a plastic shed cover. The cuttings are vertically inserted into vermiculite in rows, with a spacing of 2 cm and a row spacing of 4 cm, and watered after insertion. The cutting depth is 6-8 cm, because it is observed that the temperature at 5 cm is 2℃-4℃ higher than that at 10 cm, and most of the healing tissues and adventitious roots are born at 6-8 cm.
5. Post-insertion management: It is the key to survival to keep the leaves moist by frequent spraying. At noon when the temperature is high, the number of sprays is more and the interval is shorter. There is no need to spray dew at night and in the morning. The relative humidity of air is above 90%, and the humidity of vermiculite is between 58% and 60%. This index must be achieved before rooting, especially before healing tissue is formed. In early May, a shade shed should be set up to prevent the sun from exposure. When the temperature in the plastic shed exceeds 35℃, open the two ends of the shed for ventilation, and then seal it after the temperature drops to 27℃. If the weather is too hot, spraying water outside the plastic shed can not only reduce the temperature, but also avoid the excessive water content of vermiculite caused by excessive spraying.
6. Transplanting time and method: transplant the cuttings in time when the root system grows to 6-8 cm. When transplanted too late, the root system of cuttings will turn brown and rot, and the leaves will turn yellow gradually. This is because vermiculite can only play the role of heat preservation, moisture preservation and ventilation, and can promote root growth, but it has no nutrients for cuttings to continue to grow. In addition, cuttings with few roots or only callus without roots should be left in the seedbed and transplanted after the roots grow.
Creating an environment suitable for the continuous growth of cutting seedlings is the key to ensure the survival of transplanting. To choose a fertile plot without water, make a north-south border with a length of 8 meters and a width of 0.3 meters, mix it with sandy loam and turn it over 30 centimeters, and then cover it with sandy loam with a thickness of 2 centimeters. Level the border, plant one row in each border, and the spacing between plants is 30cm. Put the root system of the cuttings together with the surrounding vermiculite into the planting hole and cover the hole with sand. Don't press hard, lest you break the tender roots. Immediately, the border was irrigated with water, and a 1.2-meter-high shade shed was built on it. Spray it 2-3 times a day, keep the leaves moist and water them frequently until the ground is wet and dry. The seedlings transplanted in this way are not delayed, with high survival rate and normal growth.