1, plastic tunnel. One is multi-vine shaping, which is suitable for areas buried in the ground in winter to prevent cold. Topping is carried out when the seedlings grow to 5-6 leaves in the same year of planting, and 3-4 thick main vines are selected. The second is dry shaping, that is, only one new shoot is left after germination in that year, and the trunk that grows upright is cultivated. 2. Prune in winter. Grapes are pruned in winter, usually about one month after defoliation in autumn to about 20 days before germination in the next year. Pruning too early or too late will cause serious damage to the tree, loss of nutrition and weak growth of the tree. According to the strength of trees and the length of fruiting branches, the principles of grape pruning in winter are: strong vines stay long and weak vines stay short; Leave the upper part long and the lower part short. Generally, it can be divided into three methods: (1) Long vine pruning Long vine pruning generally adopts the method of double vine regeneration. Select a vine under the fruiting vine as the regenerated mother branch, and the regenerated mother branch will keep 2-3 healthy buds, and the fruiting mother vine will keep 6- 12 buds, so that the new branches will blossom and bear fruit in the same year, and update the two new branches extracted from the mother vine (if three new branches are extracted, one branch should be removed). If there is inflorescence on it, it should be removed to reduce nutrient consumption and promote branch tissue enrichment. When pruning in the winter of the following year, all the fruiting vines in that year were cut off, and the new branches on the upper part of the updated mother vines still kept 6- 12 buds as the fruiting mother vines, while the new branches on the lower part kept 2-3 buds as the updated mother vines. When selecting and retaining the updated mother vines, we should pay attention to selecting the parts as close as possible to the trunk to control the rising speed of the resulting parts year by year. (2) Pruning short vines, planting vines about one meter first, and pulling out a plurality of main bearing vines from the main vines. When pruning in winter, each female bearing vine should have 2-3 buds. After bolting in spring, choose the upper branch as the bearing branch and the lower branch as the regeneration branch to prevent it from bearing fruit. When pruning in winter, all the fruiting branches are cut off, and 2-3 buds are left in the updated branches. (3) The method of pruning and renewing the middle vine is basically the same as that of pruning the short vine, but the difference is that there are more buds on the mother branch, usually 4-5 buds. In addition, when pruning, we should cut off dense branches, tender branches, branches of diseases and insect pests and dry dead branches. 3. Plant management during growth. (1) Wipe the bud. In order to make the most economical and effective use of nutrients and make the new buds even and dense, too many unnecessary buds should be erased as soon as possible. (2) prick the tip and remove the tendrils. When the new tip grows to 25~30 cm, it should be tied in time, and the word tying method can prevent the new tip from being injured by friction. When binding shoots, remove tendrils at the same time to support nutrient consumption. (3) Picking new buds and treating secondary buds. Taking the heart from the new bud can inhibit the overgrowth of branches and vines. A large number of secondary buds should be inhibited after enucleation. The secondary branches below the ear can be removed from the base, while the secondary branches above the ear leave two leaves to core, and the secondary branches at the top of the main branches leave several leaves to core the fruit branches, which can limit the vegetative growth, promote the nutrient accumulation of inflorescences and improve the fruit setting rate. Generally, it is advisable to leave 5~9 leaves on the top ear one week before flowering. (4) Pruning of inflorescence and ear. There are often 1~3 inflorescences on a fruiting branch, so it is advisable to leave a well-developed inflorescence. Then the inflorescence is pruned properly. For varieties with low fruit-setting rate and scattered panicles, such as Rose Fragrant and Kyoho, the secondary panicle should be cut off 2~3 days before flowering, and some panicle tips should be pinched off to improve the fruit-setting rate. White Malaga, Italy and other varieties with high fruit setting rate often support fruit, which leads to inconsistent fruit cracking and fruit maturity. These varieties should be thinned with small scissors at 10~20 days after flowering to increase fruit size and improve quality. Japanese Kyoho grapes are sparse in panicle, generally about 35 grains are left per panicle, and the single fruit weight can reach 15 ~ 18g.