Second, fine soil preparation and fertilization to improve planting quality. After land selection, ploughing and leveling, the pit is dug according to the predetermined row spacing, with a diameter of 80 cm at the top and 40 cm at the bottom. Prune the roots and branches of seedlings properly before planting, and try to keep as many as possible. 30 ~ 40kg of organic fertilizer and 0.5kg of urea are applied to each pit, and the into the pit bottom is evenly spread. The backfill soil is 10cm thick, and each pit is planted with grape seedlings 1 plant. The backfill soil is dense and filled with 1 times water seepage. After water seepage, cover the pit with soil in time.
Third, strengthen post-planting management. 7 days after planting, the soil should be piled up in time to prevent cold and moisturize, and the thickness of the soil pile is generally about 30 cm, which is conducive to moisturizing and protecting seedlings from wintering. After the late frost next year, clear the cold-proof mound in time and water it 1 time; Before germination, cut 2 ~ 3 bud eyes; After germination, the redundant buds are cut off and the secondary buds are enucleated; When the main tip is 50 cm long, core is taken. In the future, it will be transferred to normal field management.
Generally, cuttings are collected in combination with pruning in winter. Annual branches with full development, good quality, short internodes, normal color, full bud eyes and no diseases and insect pests were selected as cuttings, cut into 7-8 sections (about 50 cm), bundled into 65,438+0 bundles every 50-65,438+000, and stored. The storage ditch is located in a high and dry shade. The depth of the trench is 60-80 cm, and the length and width depend on the number of storage branches. Before impounding, lay a layer of 10- 15cm thick wet sand at the bottom of the ditch. Cuttings can be placed horizontally or vertically, but a layer of sand should be sprinkled on the branches to reduce the respiratory heat of the branches. If there is no sand, you can use soil. The soil moisture is about 10%, and the bale is filled with fine soil. Three layers of cuttings are suitable, which is not convenient for inspection and management when it is too much, and it is also easy to cause fever and mildew. Straw bundles are erected at intervals of about 2 meters in the middle to facilitate ventilation up and down. After the branches are laid, the top can be covered with a layer of straw, and finally covered with 20-30 cm thick soil, and the thickness of the soil should be appropriately increased in the cold areas of Northeast China and North China. During the storage of cuttings, we should pay attention to regular inspection to keep the temperature in the sand storage ditch at about 65438 0℃, and generally it should not be higher than 5℃ or lower than -3℃. When the temperature is too high, the respiration of branches is enhanced, nutrient consumption is increased, and mildew is easy to occur; If the temperature is too low, the bud eye is easy to get frostbite. The humidity of the storage ditch is also suitable. If it is found that the humidity is too high and the branches are moldy, it should be turned over and ventilated in time and stored again.
Cutting propagation method
1. Common cutting propagation method
(1) Rootless cuttage (open-field cuttage) After the stored branches are taken out of the ditch in spring, they are soaked in clean water for 6-8 hours indoors, and then cuttage is carried out. Generally, the branches are cut into cuttings with 2-3 buds respectively. Cuttings are generally about 20 cm long, and varieties with long internodes only leave 1-2 buds on each cutting. When cutting, the upper end is cut horizontally at the top of the bud 1 cm, and the lower end is cut obliquely at the bottom of the bud, and the cut is "ear-shaped" (the cut is easy to take root near the bud eye). The bud eye on the top of the cutting should be full. If the first bud eye is damaged after cutting, the second bud eye can germinate, which is beneficial to improve the survival rate of cutting.
Nursery land should be selected in a place with flat terrain, deep soil layer, loose and fertile soil and irrigation conditions. In the autumn of the first year, the soil was deeply ploughed by 30-40 cm, and combined with deep ploughing, 3000-5000 kg of organic fertilizer was applied every 666.7 square meters for winter irrigation. Rake the ground in time to conserve moisture after thawing in early spring. Cutting is divided into flat edge cutting, high edge cutting and ridge cutting. Flat border cutting is mainly used in arid areas to facilitate irrigation. Ridge cultivation with high border is mainly used in areas with wet soil, so as to drain water in time and prevent the border surface from being too wet. No matter flat border cutting or high border cutting, the seedbed should be prepared before cutting. The size of seedbed should be determined according to the shape of the plot. Generally, the bed width is 1m, the length is 8- 10m, the cutting distance is 12- 15cm, the row spacing is 30-40cm, and 3-4 rows are inserted in each bed. When cutting, the cuttings are inserted obliquely into the soil, and a bud eye is exposed on the ground, so that the bud eye is above the back of the cuttings and the new buds are straight. When planting ridges, the ridge width is about 30 cm, the height is 15 cm, the ridge spacing is 50-60 cm and the plant spacing is 12- 15 cm. All cuttings are planted obliquely on the ridge. Irrigation in the border after transplanting, if possible, the cutting effect is better after covering with plastic film. No matter which cutting method is adopted, it is necessary to pay attention to the fact that the upper end of the cutting does not protrude too long from the ground, and at the same time, it is necessary to prevent the cutting from being inserted and avoid the variety from being mixed.
Cutting shall be started when the local soil temperature (15-20cm) is stable above 10℃. In North China, it is usually from late March to early April, but in North China, it is not until mid-April that cutting seedlings can be carried out in the open field.
During the period from cutting to producing new roots, soil drought must be prevented. Generally 10 days or so 1 time. Water the cohesive soil less often. If you water too much, the soil will be too wet, the ground temperature will decrease, and the poor air permeability of the soil will also affect the rooting of cuttings. Strengthen fertilizer and water management after cuttings take root. In the first half of July, the seedlings enter the stage of rapid growth, and then the quick-acting fertilizer should be applied 2-3 times. In order to make the branches fully mature, irrigation and fertilization should be stopped or reduced from late July to August, and at the same time, pest control should be strengthened, and the main shoots and auxiliary shoots should be cored to ensure the healthy growth of seedlings and promote the growth of strong seedlings. During the growth of seedlings, it is necessary to plough and weed in time, improve soil ventilation conditions and promote root growth.
Cutting in the open field is the simplest method of raising seedlings, with low cost and easy popularization. However, if the management is improper, the survival rate and emergence rate of cuttings are low. In addition, the growth period of seedlings is short and the quality of seedlings is relatively poor by cutting in the open field. Generally, 6000-7000 plants are cut every 666.7 square meters in the open field, and the seedling rate is 60%-70%.
(2) In March and April, the temperature in northern China rose rapidly, but the ground temperature rose slowly. Cutting in the open field often germinates first and then takes root, and the time difference between germination and rooting is more than 20 days. If it is not properly managed, the sprouted buds will often wither due to lack of water and nutrition, which will seriously affect the survival rate of cutting. The reason is that the temperature required for grape bud eye germination is relatively low, and generally it can germinate at around 10℃. Rooting requires high temperature, and rooting is fastest at 25-28℃. Root-urging is to accelerate the division of primitive cells at the base of cuttings and promote the formation of adventitious roots by artificial heating according to the temperature requirements of grape rooting. The commonly used root promotion methods in production include hotbed root promotion, fire pit root promotion, electric heating root promotion and chemical treatment root promotion.
Hotbed to promote rooting: create heating conditions and promote rooting by brewing heat in hotbed. Before root-urging, dig a bed pit on the ground, with the middle of the pit slightly higher and the periphery slightly lower, and then fill it with raw horse manure with a thickness of 20-30cm, while filling it stably. After treading it flat, water the horse manure and cover it with plastic film to promote the fermentation and heat production of horse manure. When the temperature rises to 30-40℃ in a few days, sprinkle fine soil about 5 cm thick on the horse manure, and wait until the temperature drops to 30℃. Fill branches with wet sand or wet sawdust to prevent hot air from rising and water from evaporating. The soil temperature at the lower part of the cuttings is kept at 22-30℃. Be careful not to bury the buds at the top of the cuttings in the sand to avoid premature germination under the influence of high temperature. Keep the sand or sawdust moist when root-urging, and pay attention to controlling the bed surface temperature, uncover the plastic film covering the hotbed during the day, and use the cold air in early spring to reduce the bed surface temperature to prevent the buds from sprouting prematurely.
Root-urging by fire kang: generally, Huilong fire kang is used, semi-underground or above ground. The width of the kang is1.5-2m, and the length depends on the need. Specific construction methods, you can first dig 2-3 small ditches under the kang bed. The gully is 20cm deep and15cm wide. The small ditch is paved with bricks or adobe, which is the first flue, that is, the main flue. There should be a certain angle from the exit to the entrance of the flue, which is inclined upwards, and then a flower hole is built with bricks or adobe on the first layer of flue, which is the second layer of flue. Mud is plastered on the kang surface, and bricks are built around it to make low walls. After the kang is repaired, try to burn it first, and fill it properly where the temperature is too high. When the temperature of the kang surface is even (20-28℃), spread 10 cm thick wet sand or wet sawdust, put cuttings on it to promote roots, and cover them with plastic film to prevent cuttings from losing water and drying.
The construction method of fire kang varies from place to place. In some areas, the kang is relatively simple, with only 1 floor flue, and three ditches are dug under the kang bed. The middle 1 ditch is the main fire path, which extends from the fire nozzle to the fire stop end with an inclination of 25 -30 degrees. There are two auxiliary fire exits on both sides. The distance between the main and auxiliary fire exits is 20-40 cm, and they are connected at the end of the fire resistance limit. The auxiliary flue should also be made into a gentle slope shape, and it will return to the smoke outlet on the burner. The width of the main flue and the auxiliary flue is 25 cm and the height is about 20 cm. After paving the fire path with machine tiles, fill in a layer of soil to build the kang surface. Other root-urging methods are the same as Huilongkang.
The construction of heated kang is relatively simple, and it is suitable for use in areas without electricity supply and some areas accustomed to using heated kang to raise seedlings.
Seedling raising with plastic nutrition bags can be carried out in greenhouse, warm kang or sunny bed. If the seedlings are raised in the sunny bed, the plastic bag should be filled with nutrient soil, so that the soil surface in the bag is about 1 cm away from the bag mouth, and then the nutrient bags should be arranged neatly in the sunny bed. General 1 m2 sunshine boundary can hold 400 nutrition bags. When cutting, the stored cuttings are cut into bud segments, the stout branches can be cut into single-bud cuttings, and the thinner branches can be cut into double-bud cuttings, which are cut flat above the bud eye 1 cm, leaving 3-5 cm diagonal cutting under the bud (when cutting with double buds, it is cut obliquely below the second bud and cut into horse ears). After the cut bud segment is treated with root promoter, it is directly inserted into the center of the set nutrition bag, and the top bud of the cutting is flush with the soil surface in the bag. After cuttage, water is poured 1 time for water permeability, and at the same time, arched brackets are erected on the sun bed, covered with plastic film, uncovered in sunny days, ventilated and tightly covered at night, and the temperature in the bed is kept above 20℃ during the day but not above 30℃ and above 10℃ at night.
If seedlings are raised in greenhouse or refractory bed, plastic bags filled with nutrient soil are put in greenhouse or refractory bed in the same way, and the cutting method is the same as that of sunny bed, except that the start time of seedling raising in greenhouse can be advanced to L-February. When raising seedlings with refractory materials, the start time can be a little later. The seedling raising time in sunny bed can be determined by referring to the seedling raising time of local vegetable farmers. The principle is that the local late frost period has passed and the open field temperature is suitable for seedling growth.
The management after cutting is relatively simple, mainly to keep the proper humidity in the bag and avoid waterlogging in the bag. When nutrition is insufficient, after 2-3 leaves grow, 0.3% urea and potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution can be sprayed 1-3 times. When the seedlings grow to 20-25 cm, they can be planted in the open field in the middle and late May.
The advantages of plastic nutrition bag seedling raising are: ① saving cuttings. ② The survival rate is high when planting. The root system of the seedlings cultivated in plastic bags is developed. After removing the plastic bags, the soil will not be scattered, the root system will not be damaged, and the seedlings will not stay after planting, and the seedlings will grow all the time, and the survival rate can generally reach over 95%. (3) Save land and labor. Generally, about 5,000 seedlings can be raised by cutting in the open field every 666.7 square meters, and more than 654.38+10,000 seedlings can be raised by plastic bags every 666.7 square meters in the protected field. At the same time, the management after transplanting is relatively simple, only watering is needed, no intertillage is needed, and seedling raising, follow-up and transportation are also very convenient. 4 can bear fruit early. Plastic bag seedlings can be planted in May. Because there is no seedling extension process, the long-term after planting is relatively prolonged, and the plants can be shaped in the same year and begin to bear fruit in the second year.
The key to raising seedlings with plastic nutrition bags is to pay attention to water control. Too much water will lead to decay and deterioration of cuttings, so it should be checked frequently. When plastic bags are used to raise seedlings in the greenhouse, the temperature in the greenhouse should be kept at 25-30℃ during the day, with the highest temperature not exceeding 30℃, and the temperature at night should not be lower than 15℃.
(2) Fire prevention and seedling raising. In fact, seedling raising with fire resistance is to directly cultivate cuttings into fire resistance seedlings, and then plant them in the ground.
The construction of a fire-resistant kang is the same as the preparation and rooting of cuttings, but the density of cuttings is not as high as that of rooting. Generally, cuttings are cut at a distance of 4-5 cm and buried in wet sand. After the whole kang is cut, start heating at any time, and burn the fire 2-3 times every morning and evening to keep the temperature in the bed sand at 25-30℃. At the same time, pay attention to frequent watering to keep the bed moist, and uncover the plastic film in time for ventilation when the temperature is high. In general, it takes about 1 month or 1.5 months to finish the fire. Stop heating 7- 10 days before field planting, and carry out adaptive exercise on seedlings. After general cutting 12 days, the healing tissue began to produce, and the rooting rate reached 70% after 20 days. After 1 month, 1 cuttings can grow more than 10 roots, and some roots have been semi-lignified. At this time, 3-4 leaves can be sent out from the ground, and the seedling height can reach 13-20 cm. In practical application, in order to facilitate management, seedling selection and planting, the method of combining nutrition bowl or bag with kang heating is often adopted.
It is time-saving, land-saving, labor-saving, less investment, quick effect and high seedling rate. This method can be used in rural areas without electricity supply.
Like electric heating seedling raising, fire-resistant seedling raising realizes summer sowing sowing in spring, prolongs the growth time of seedlings, and creates conditions for early formation, early fruiting and early high yield.
The heated kang can be used to raise seedlings, which can be built in the yard of the house or at the edge of the village, saving the special land for raising seedlings.
For places without irrigation conditions, seedling raising in the open field often fails due to insufficient water supply, while seedling raising in the kang can focus on seedling raising, save water, and management is more convenient than teaching. Therefore, this centralized seedling raising method should be popularized in arid areas.
(3) electrothermal seedling raising or electrothermal root-promoting greenhouse seedling raising method, in fact, is to cultivate cuttings in an electrothermal hotbed or to cut them into a greenhouse after electrothermal root-promoting. Therefore, the seedling rate is higher and the seedling growth time is longer. Generally, it can prolong the growth period by about 2 months compared with ordinary open-air cutting, and it is easy to achieve the goal of strong seedlings in the same year and bearing fruit in the next year.
Its practice is basically the same as the above-mentioned electrothermal root promotion method.
(4) Cover the seedbed or seedling ridge with plastic film before cutting. The periphery of the plastic film is compacted with soil. When cutting, first insert a hole in the seedbed with a thick wooden stick, and then put the cuttings into the hole so that the top bud is about 0.5 cm above the ground. The cut hole at the lower part of the cutting is sealed with soil, and then watered 1 time.
The main function of plastic film is to raise ground temperature, keep soil moisture and promote the good growth of grape seedlings. Covering with plastic film can reduce the evaporation of soil moisture, prevent soil hardening and overgrowth of weeds, and also reduce the complicated nursery management. However, it should be noted that when the temperature is high, the phenomenon of seedling burning will occur under plastic film mulching. At this time, straw should be covered on the plastic film or the plastic film should be removed in time to prevent seedling burning.
Grapes are warm-loving plants. In early spring, the temperature 10oC began to germinate, and the higher the temperature, the faster the germination. The suitable flowering period is 25-30℃. When it comes to low temperature (below 15oC), rain fog and drought wind, pollination and fertilization will be poor, resulting in a large number of flowers and fruits falling. July-September is the ripening period of berries. If the temperature is insufficient, the color of berries will be poor, the sugar will be reduced, and even they will not be fully mature. Whether the local temperature can satisfy the full maturity of grape fruit is usually based on the accumulated temperature. For example, the cumulative maturity temperature of Shifeng (the sum of daily average temperatures from flowering to maturity) is 2564oC, and its flowering to maturity is 102 days.
Grapes have a strong preference for light. Under the condition of sufficient light, the leaves are thick and dark green, with strong photosynthesis, vigorous plant growth, many buds, high sugar content, sweet berries and high yield.
The humidity is not easy to be too high. There is much rain before flowering, and the new shoots grow too vigorously, which consumes plant storage nutrients; Rainy flowering period and poor fertilization lead to falling flowers; The fruit from hypertrophy stage to maturity stage is rainy, lack of illumination, low sugar content, color difference, poor quality and easy to crack. High temperature, rain and humidity are also the main reasons for the increase of grape diseases.
Pruning of grapes
The purpose of shaping and pruning is to adjust the contradiction between growth and fruiting, rationally arrange branches and vines on the frame surface, facilitate management, make trees strong, prolong their life and create conditions for high yield in successive years. The shaping and pruning of grapes vary from variety to variety. The "Kyoho" tree is extremely strong, so pruning should be light and long. Picking fruiting branches before flowering and pinching off some spikes are helpful to relieve tree vigor, reduce flower and fruit dropping and improve fruit setting rate. For the "Queen of Vineyards" with medium and strong tree potential, pruning short and medium branches is appropriate.
Plastic surgery. One is multi-vine shaping, which is suitable for areas buried in the ground in winter to prevent cold. Topping is carried out when the seedlings grow to 5-6 leaves in the same year of planting, and 3-4 thick main vines are selected. The second is trunk shaping, that is, only one new tip is left after germination in that year, and a trunk that grows upright is cultivated.
Pruning in winter. Grapes are pruned in winter, usually about one month after defoliation in autumn to about 20 days before germination in the next year. Pruning too early or too late will cause serious damage to the tree, loss of nutrition and weak growth of the tree. According to the strength of trees and the length of fruiting branches, the principles of grape pruning in winter are: strong vines stay long and weak vines stay short; Leave the upper part long and the lower part short. Generally, it can be divided into three methods: (1) Long vine pruning Long vine pruning generally adopts the method of double vine regeneration. Select a vine under the fruiting vine as the regenerated mother branch, and the regenerated mother branch will keep 2-3 healthy buds, and the fruiting mother vine will keep 6- 12 buds, so that the new branches will blossom and bear fruit in the same year, and update the two new branches extracted from the mother vine (if three new branches are extracted, one branch should be removed). If there is inflorescence on it, it should be removed to reduce nutrient consumption and promote branch tissue enrichment. When pruning in the winter of the following year, all the fruiting vines in that year were cut off, and the new branches on the upper part of the updated mother vines still kept 6- 12 buds as the fruiting mother vines, while the new branches on the lower part kept 2-3 buds as the updated mother vines. When selecting and retaining the updated mother vines, we should pay attention to selecting the parts as close as possible to the trunk to control the rising speed of the resulting parts year by year. (2) Pruning short vines, planting vines about one meter first, and pulling out a plurality of main bearing vines from the main vines. When pruning in winter, each female bearing vine should have 2-3 buds. After bolting in spring, choose the upper branch as the bearing branch and the lower branch as the regeneration branch to prevent it from bearing fruit. When pruning in winter, all the fruiting branches are cut off, and 2-3 buds are left in the updated branches. (3) The method of pruning and renewing the middle vine is basically the same as that of pruning the short vine, but the difference is that there are more buds on the mother branch, usually 4-5 buds. In addition, when pruning, we should cut off dense branches, tender branches, branches of diseases and insect pests and dry dead branches.
Plant management during growth. (1) Wipe the bud. In order to make the most economical and effective use of nutrients and make the new buds even and dense, too many unnecessary buds should be erased as soon as possible. (2) prick the tip and remove the tendrils. When the new tip grows to 25~30 cm, it should be tied in time, and the word tying method can prevent the new tip from being injured by friction. When binding shoots, remove tendrils at the same time to support nutrient consumption. (3) Picking new buds and treating secondary buds. Taking the heart from the new bud can inhibit the overgrowth of branches and vines. A large number of secondary buds should be inhibited after enucleation. The secondary branches below the ear can be removed from the base, while the secondary branches above the ear leave two leaves to core, and the secondary branches at the top of the main branches leave several leaves to core the fruit branches, which can limit the vegetative growth, promote the nutrient accumulation of inflorescences and improve the fruit setting rate. Generally, it is advisable to leave 5~9 leaves on the top ear one week before flowering. (4) Pruning of inflorescence and ear. There are often 1~3 inflorescences on a fruiting branch, so it is advisable to leave a well-developed inflorescence. Then the inflorescence is pruned properly. For varieties with low fruit-setting rate and scattered panicles, such as Rose Fragrant and Kyoho, the secondary panicle should be cut off 2~3 days before flowering, and some panicle tips should be pinched off to improve the fruit-setting rate. White Malaga, Italy and other varieties with high fruit setting rate often support fruit, which leads to inconsistent fruit cracking and fruit maturity. These varieties should be thinned with small scissors at 10~20 days after flowering to increase fruit size and improve quality. Japanese Kyoho grapes are sparse in panicle, generally about 35 grains are left per panicle, and the single fruit weight can reach 15 ~ 18g.
Fertilizer and water management
Grape is a perennial plant, which grows and bears fruit every year and needs to absorb a lot of nutrients from the soil. In order to maintain the robust growth of trees and continuously improve the yield and quality of products, we must pay attention to rational fertilization. According to the determination of some high-yield vineyards in China, for every 100 kg of berries, 0.25-0.75 kg of nitrogen, 0.2-0.75 kg of phosphorus and 0. 13-0.63 kg of potassium should be applied. All localities can adjust measures to local conditions and apply fertilizers appropriately through production practice and scientific experiments.
According to the fertilization period, it can be divided into base fertilizer and topdressing. Base fertilizer should be applied from the end of September to the beginning of 10 when the new shoots are fully mature. The base fertilizer is mixed with after-effect fertilizers such as decomposed human manure or manure, poultry manure, green manure and phosphate fertilizer (superphosphate). Top dressing generally uses fast-acting nitrogen fertilizers such as decomposed human excrement and urine and cake fertilizer. Before flowering 10 day, potassium fertilizers such as plant ash and chicken manure were mainly applied in early July. The fertilization method can dig an annular ditch about 1 m away from the plant. The depth of base fertilizer is about 40 cm, and topdressing should be shallow to avoid excessive root damage. Water is needed after fertilization.
Topdressing outside the root of grape has obvious effect on improving yield and quality, and the method is simple. Spraying 1-3% calcium superphosphate solution before flowering, young fruit stage and berry maturity can increase yield and improve quality; Spraying 0.05-0. 1% boric acid solution before flowering can improve the fruit setting rate; Spraying 0.02% potassium salt solution or 3% plant ash extract (soaked the day before spraying) during fruit setting and fruit growth can improve the sugar content and yield of berries. Spraying fertilizer outside the roots, in case of drought, should reduce the concentration appropriately to avoid burning leaves; In the unused areas, it is advisable to try it out in small batches first, and then gradually promote it after gaining experience.
Grape is relatively drought-tolerant, but if it can be irrigated in time, the yield can be significantly improved. The soil must be kept moist before the sap flows to blossom. At this time, if topdressing irrigation can be used, good fertilizer and water conditions can be created for flowering and fruit setting. However, too much water during flowering will cause a large number of flowers and fruits to fall. Unless the soil is too dry, it is not suitable for watering during flowering. From fruit setting to fruit coloring, it is in a high temperature state, and the transpiration on leaves is large, which requires a lot of water. Water can be poured every 7- 10 days according to the weather. After the coloring of the fruit begins to soften, the sugar content of the fruit decreases, which makes it difficult to store and easy to crack unless there are too many dry years. During dormancy, too dry soil is not conducive to overwintering, and too wet soil is easy to cause mildew in bud eyes. Generally, irrigation is combined with autumn fertilization once after harvest to facilitate water permeability. In northern producing areas, irrigation is needed once before cold protection, which is an important measure for grape cold protection.
There are many propagation methods of grape seedlings, which can be divided into propagation and asexual propagation according to the different propagation materials used. Sexual reproduction is the propagation of seedlings with seeds, which is called seedling propagation. The propagated seedlings are called seedlings, and sexual reproduction is mainly used for the propagation of rootstock seedlings in production. Because the seeds used in sexual reproduction are produced through sexual process, they are separated greatly from the genetic point of view and cannot maintain the stability of the original varieties. In addition, in conventional breeding, hybrid seeds obtained by hybridization grow hybrid seedlings through sowing, and excellent individual plants are selected from them until they are cultivated into excellent varieties. A method for utilizing vegetative organs (such as branches, roots, buds, etc.) of plants. ) as a breeding material to breed seedlings in asexual breeding places, and the obtained seedlings are called vegetative seedlings. The methods of asexual propagation include hard branch cutting, green branch cutting, hard branch grafting and green branch grafting. On the basis of the above methods, it can be greatly improved by combining with various important facilities (such as greenhouses, greenhouses, small arch sheds, potential lines, nutrition bowls, etc.). ).0nk 02 102009-7-29 19: 15:5560 . 22 . 230。 * Report on grape cultivation techniques.
Grapes are generally propagated by cutting or layering. Cutting is carried out in April before spring germination. The cuttings are cut into sections with strong branches in the middle, leaving 1-3 knots in each section, and the lower end is cut off near the bud eye and inserted into the sand bed. The sand bed should be kept slightly wet, but not too wet. It can take root at the end of May, and it should be put in a semi-shady place to slow down the seedlings and gradually turn into normal management.
Layering: in early April, selecting fruiting mother branches with a diameter of 1-2 cm and a length of 40-60 cm, passing the branches through the drainage holes at the bottom of the soil basin, girdling the branches at a position 2 cm below the bud nodes, and then covering the fertile and loose soil. The flowerpot is hung in the air with a bracket. Pay attention to watering frequently, keep the basin soil moist, and the girdling place will take root in about one month. After two months, half of the fruiting mother branches can be cut off outside the drainage hole of the flowerpot, and all the mother branches can be cut off when the fruit is ripe, so that the fruiting plants with 3-5 ears can be obtained. The biggest advantage of this layering propagation method is that as long as it is carried out in March-April, new fruiting plants can be cultivated.
To build a successful vineyard, we must fully understand how to choose the site. Whether you have established a vineyard, have chosen a favorite location or are choosing a location for a vineyard, you need to know where it is suitable to establish a vineyard. When choosing vineyards in Texas, we should pay attention to the following aspects: climate, weather, water and water quality, and the influence of diseases. To evaluate the suitability of a vineyard, all aspects should be considered.
To decide the location of the vineyard, we must first find out whether the geographical conditions are suitable for growing grapes. Only when the geographical location of the vineyard is suitable for grape varieties can we obtain high-yield and high-quality grapes in the future. Good management and favorable weather can realize the potential benefits of vineyards. Grasping the subtle relationship between the geographical location of vines and vineyards requires continuous learning and putting planning and management into practice.
If you own a piece of land and want to build a vineyard here, you must first evaluate which grape variety is most suitable for this land and whether this grape variety is in line with your business plan. If you plant an unsuitable variety, you will have to spend a whole year dealing with endless problems. Grape not only has low yield and poor quality, but also has high cost and poor benefit. It is a feasible way to decide the varieties to be planted first and then choose the appropriate address.
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