Current location - Plastic Surgery and Aesthetics Network - Plastic surgery and beauty - What problems should be paid attention to when pruning peach trees in winter?
What problems should be paid attention to when pruning peach trees in winter?
First, balance the tree potential

Balancing tree potential is the main measure for high quality and high yield. To start with small trees, plastic surgery should achieve four basics. The same angle, the same thickness and height of the main branch (pole), the result is that the longer the branch, the better. It can be ventilated and transparent, and the upper part and the middle and lower parts are basically balanced.

Second, modify the tree in time.

A tree is a living organism, which is influenced by climate management level and yield every year, and its skeleton may not change much, but the front end of the main branch (pole), especially the front end, is likely to be deformed due to unreasonable pruning and load, so it is a changing shape. Especially the open series varieties, if you don't pay attention to skeleton culture from an early age, the deformation will be more severe. The angle of the main branch will change from 65 degrees to 85-90 degrees, or even become a negative angle. It not only seriously affected the fruit coloring in that year, but also caused rows of main branches to cross each other, and there was no working path, which brought difficulties to various management work in the field.

Seriously affect the overall ventilation and light transmission. Therefore, when pruning in winter, we should take four sentences as the basis of pruning: tangible immortality, intangible chaos, shaping with trees, and pruning because of branches. As long as the main branch (stem) is deformed, you can choose strong branches in a reasonable space on the back of the main branch, and re-cultivate the main branch by shortening it, instead of using autumn shoots as the main branch. In two years, we can successfully cultivate new main branches and increase the output of the first mate. In addition to straightening the main stem, the upper end of the main stem is bent back to the upright position, and the upper end of the main stem is re-cultivated with sprouted new buds, which is generally successful in the same year.

3. Regeneration of fruiting branches

Both the heart-shaped and trunk-shaped trees have entered the age of more than six years, which requires the middle and lower parts to adopt double branch regeneration, that is, the long-term pruning method of "one release and one contraction". The top half is obviously easy to germinate because of the top advantage, and the sliver can be thinned without shrinking. For trees under five years old, there are relatively many buds on the main branches (trunks), so the whole tree can be treated by the method of thinning one and leaving the other, and generally there will be no artificial disconnection. If the autumn shoot is the main branch, then the pruning method of the bud-leaving pile should be considered, because the sliver base of the autumn shoot generally has fewer buds.

Fourth, the difference between early-maturing peaches and mid-late-maturing branches.

Through the observation in recent years, the fruit of early-maturing varieties is relatively small, leaving more than one foot of fruiting branches, and the fruit is relatively long, and the fruit heads of fruiting branches below one foot are relatively small. Therefore, try to choose a more robust fruiting branch to 1.5 feet. Peaches that mature in the middle and late period are relatively large, especially those that mature in the middle and late July. The reasonable fruiting branch should be below 1.2 feet, as small as seven inches, the fruit is relatively firm, and the fruit is light and big when it matures. We must learn to observe and treat specific varieties.

5. Reasonable parts of fruit branches

The two sides of the main branch are inclined or the transverse branches are generally moderate and stout, with good fruit and good coloring. Generally, no fruiting branches are left on the back, which is easy to cause upright growth and affect the light. However, if there are not enough fruiting branches on both sides of the main branch, moderate fruiting branches can be left on the back as appropriate to make up for the shortage of fruiting branches, and they should be pulled out immediately after picking the fruits, so as to avoid the deterioration of illumination in the inner cavity and affect the quality of developing branches and the formation of flower buds. The fruiting branches under the back of the main branch are resolutely not left. Because the drooping branches are less nutritious and the light is obviously insufficient, the fruits are generally smaller.

Note: wounds exceeding 1 cm must be protected with healing agent.

Author: Wang Wankui, lecturer of Zhongnong Le Fruit Industry Research Institute.