Guess what? When do grapes need fertilizer? Which key phenological period is closely related to the growth and yield of grapes?
Grapes have developed roots, many branches and vines, large leaves, vigorous growth, many fruits and high yield, which require a variety of nutrients and a lot of fertilizers.
The number of topdressing is related to the period, climate and tree age.
1, generally high temperature and rainy, sand and fertilizer are easy to lose, and the number of topdressing can be more.
2. The number of topdressing for young trees should be less. When the tree age increases and the fruit yield increases, the number of topdressing can be appropriately increased.
3. In production, topdressing is usually 2~5 times a year for the fruit trees of mature grapes.
First, accelerating germination fertilizer
Before the grapes germinate, combine deep furrowing and topdressing the surrounding soil to promote the orderly germination of bud eyes.
This time, the main fertilizer is nitrogen fertilizer, which aims to promote orderly germination, thick leaves and large and strong inflorescences.
If the tree is too strong and not very dry in spring, you can omit the fertilizer and water at this time, so as not to cause the new buds to grow white.
(The new leaves are slightly yellow. From germination to leaf spreading, the tree is weak, and no fertilizer is applied.)
(emphasizing the use of nitrogen fertilizer or strong shoot fertilizer, resulting in vigorous growth of new shoots)
Supplement: Vineyards with sufficient organic fertilizer and weak tree potential in the south can not be topdressing with accelerating germination fertilizer.
Second, fertilization before flowering
Grapes need to consume a lot of nutrients to germinate and bloom.
In early spring, root absorption occurs less, and the absorption capacity is poor, which mainly consumes nutrients stored in trees.
If the supply of nitrogen fertilizer is insufficient at this time, it will lead to a large number of flowers and fruits falling, which will affect the nutritional growth! This time, it is appropriate to mix decomposed human manure with ammonium nitrate or urea, and the fertilizer consumption accounts for 10%~ 15% of the annual fertilizer consumption.
Suggestion: for weak trees, old trees and trees with too many fruits, the amount of fertilization should be increased; If the tree is strong and the amount of basal fertilizer is sufficient, topdressing before flowering can be pushed to after flowering.
Third, fertilization after flowering.
After flowering, young fruits and new shoots grow rapidly and need a lot of nitrogen nutrition. Fertilization can promote the normal growth of new shoots, enlarge leaf area, improve photosynthetic efficiency, facilitate the formation of sugar and protein, and reduce physiological fruit drop.
Supplement: Generally, pre-flowering fertilizer and post-flowering fertilizer can complement each other. If the amount of topdressing before flowering is too large, it may not be applied after flowering!
Fourth, the fruit is swollen and fat.
This kind of topdressing can not only ensure the yield of the current year, but also lay a good foundation for the results of the next year, and also play a good role in overcoming the results of big and small years.
This topdressing is mainly nitrogen fertilizer, and phosphorus and potassium fertilizer are also applied.
High nitrogen compound fertilizer or common ternary compound fertilizer can be applied, and nitrogen fertilizer such as urea can be added as appropriate.
The amount of fertilizer applied this time is large, which can account for about 50% of the annual fertilizer application.
Supplement: improper chasing in this period is prone to large and small fruits and cracks.
(1) The main reasons for fruit size are: untimely supply of nutrients (untimely supply of water and potassium fertilizer) and large fruit quantity (controllable thinning of flowers and fruits);
(2) The main reasons for fruit cracking: calcium supplementation is not timely and water supply is unbalanced!
Suggestion: not only high potassium fertilizer but also appropriate nitrogen fertilizer should be used for fruit swelling fertilizer.
Only using potassium fertilizer will cause fruit stiffness, premature fruit and small fruit shape!
Five, ripening fertilizer
There are two key periods in this topdressing.
20-30 days before ripening, apply high-potassium water-soluble fertilizer, and then apply 1 double fertilizer when grape berries begin to soften and have not been colored.
This fertilization is very important. Many fruit farmers will not apply ripening fertilizer after applying swelling fertilizer.
(1) leads to fruit color change (commonly known as water tank disease) or because of lack of fertilizer, grapes have poor stress resistance and are prone to diseases, with high yield but no bumper harvest.
(2) or color difference, low sugar content, can not sell a good price and so on.
(3) Functional fertilizer can be directly applied, and the color of water-soluble fertilizer changes greatly (high phosphorus and high potassium type is recommended, and it contains trace elements of boron and zinc).
Suggestion: Potassium fertilizer can also be sprayed or used as a regulator to accelerate ripening.
If potassium fertilizer is sprayed on the leaves of the fruit after it bears berries, it should not be sprayed too often, but once a week; You can also use plant growth regulators after the fruits become soft and spray them according to the instructions.
Sixth, the month is fat
Monthly fertilizer is also called fruit picking fertilizer: after the grapes are picked, the fruit trees will be relatively weak, and monthly fertilizer can make the trees recover quickly, which is conducive to flower bud differentiation.
After the grapes are harvested, apply 1 double fertilizer, generally 15 kg water-soluble fertilizer (high nitrogen type). This fertilizer is not only used to restore tree vigor, but also to promote flower bud differentiation and lay the foundation for high yield next year.
Supplement: There will be a small peak of root growth after fertilization in the next month, which is more conducive to root absorption of nutrients, but there are differences between north and south, as shown in the following table:
Seven, overwintering fertilizer
It is suggested to apply it in August and September, after the grapes are harvested, or during the growth of green branches and leaves, instead of the traditional application in the dormant period of grapes.
At this time, it is the second peak of grape root growth, which can promote grapes to produce a large number of fibrous roots, make the tree strong and more conducive to wintering.
This time, organic fertilizer is the main fertilizer (please pay attention if farmyard manure is applied), calcium fertilizer is applied at the same time, or a small amount of three elements are added.
Grapes germinate and grow "five leaves" and "five leaves"!
Grape bud wiping in spring is a very important work, which is related to the balanced growth of trees and the reasonable fruit bearing in the future. Correct bud smearing is one of the important measures for high quality and high efficiency cultivation.
When the flower heads can be seen in 3 ~ 4 leaves of lianas, the secondary buds, weak buds and improperly positioned buds should be wiped off in time.
Generally, one bearing mother branch leaves 1 ~ 2 new shoots with ears, and no more than 4 new shoots with ears at most.
In particular, red soil and other varieties with big ears should strictly control the number of new shoots with ears on the bearing mother branches.
The new branches with spikes should be as close to the base as possible and stay at the top of the mother branch in order to make full use of the advantages of the top.
According to the thickness of mother branches, leave more branches, more thick branches and less thin branches.
Leave more than 1 vegetative branches at the base of each fruiting mother branch, and leave about 8 branches per tree, so as to update in the future and balance the leaf-fruit ratio.
1. Wipe buds and fix buds
The principle of grape bud wiping and bud setting: stay early, be strong, open, fall and be smooth.
Wipe the bud: When the bud has germinated but not yet spread, leaving the bud or leaving the bud is wiping the bud.
Fixed branch: Fixed branch is called fixed branch. When the new shoot grows to 15~20 cm, the inflorescence can be identified.
Significance of Grape Buding: Grape 1 bud eyes often grow 2~3 new buds, and a large number of hidden buds will sprout on the main vine.
Therefore, it is necessary to erase the useless hidden buds, weak buds, residual buds and other bad buds and redundant buds.
Fixed branches can make the distribution of new branches on the shelf even and reasonable, which is the new branches left by centralized nutrition supply, thus promoting the growth and development of branches and inflorescences.
Experiments show that:
When the degree of bud smearing is 50%, the growth length of new shoots in June is more than 80 cm, while the growth length of new shoots without bud smearing is about 50 cm.
It shows that smearing buds can significantly promote the growth of new shoots.
In addition, wiping buds and fixing branches reduce unnecessary new shoots, make the distribution of new shoots more reasonable on the shelf surface, and help improve ventilation and light transmission conditions, fruit setting rate and fruit quality.
Principle of wiping and fixing buds: "five leaves" and "five leaves"
(1) Go out early and return late (refers to leaving strong buds with early germination);
(2) Keep strong and not thin (refers to keeping fat buds and stout new buds);
(3) Leave flowers without blank (referring to the new shoots with inflorescences);
(4) Leaving (refers to leaving a new branch near the base of the mother branch);
(5) Keep the branch in the same direction as the parent branch.
After the branches are fixed, try to keep the branches at the same spacing and arrange them separately.
Wipe the bud
Generally speaking, grape bud wiping in spring is carried out twice:
The best time for the first bud wiping is the early stage of grape germination, which is mainly to wipe off the buds at the base of trunk and main vine, the buds that have been decided not to sprout and the tertiary buds, and to wipe off the secondary buds from the raw buds to keep the strong big buds.
The best time for the second bud smearing is about 10 day after the first bud smearing. At this time, you can clearly see the uniformity of the buds.
For weak buds that germinate late, branch-clamped buds with no room for growth, fine buds near the base of mother branches, and adventitious buds in inappropriate positions, the buds should be smeared according to the space size and the amount of branches left.
(keep straight branches)
Fixed tip
The shoot arrangement, fruit-shoot ratio and yield of grape plants are determined by shoot fixation, so as to achieve reasonable shoot density on the shelf surface.
In the principle of fixed branches, we can choose thick branches and new branches with inflorescences, and remove over-dense branches and weak branches, so that the growth of left new branches is basically neat and consistent.
① First branch fixing: generally, it is done about 20 days after leaf spreading. When the new branches left after bud smearing grow to about 10cm, select about 12 ~ 14 strong branches per square meter, remove the relatively weak new branches, and remove the new branches sprouted on perennial vines without growth space, but keep the new branches with large growth space.
(Illustration: Erase two weak branches of three branches and keep one strong branch with flowers)
(2) the second fixed tip:
When the new shoot grows to 15~20 cm and the inflorescence can be recognized, select the new shoot.
When the length of new shoots is about 30 cm, leave 1 1~ 12 new shoots per square meter, and remove weak branches according to the principle of leaving strong branches. The resulting branch group with two branches can be used to erase the disordered branches on the upper branches and keep 2~3 strong branches with flowers. The lower branches should try to leave two strong branches with flowers near the base, if the new branches with flowers are on the upper side.
The result branch group is updated by single branch. First, select 1 robust new shoots at the base of the bearing branch, whether there is inflorescence or not, as the regenerated branches in the next year, and then select 1~2 robust flowering branches for bearing fruit.
How many branches are left? Generally, it is determined according to the density of new tips on the shelf surface.
Density of branches: Generally, a new shoot is left on the mother vine every 10~ 15 cm.
Varieties with single hedge, weak growth, small leaves, small panicle type and strong disease resistance or areas with little rain and plenty of sunshine can be properly intensively cultivated.
Varieties with double hedgerows, V rows, strong growth, large leaves, large ears, weak disease resistance or poor light in rainy areas can be appropriately thinned.
Agricultural production development
Photo: Farmer Lecture Hall
Typesetting: farmers' lecture hall