Grapevine cultivation techniques and pruning methods in the first year are as follows:

1. Thinning and pruning: In order to ensure that each main vine can be equipped with fruit-bearing mother branch groups at a certain distance, Cut off unnecessary or unusable branches and vines completely from their base. ?

2. Short cutting: When pruning in winter, it is customary to shorten the new branches that have matured for one year. Cut the branches and vines to the required length. The length is mainly determined by the pruning needs and the quality of the mature shoots. The length of pruning is generally: 1-24 sections for short tips; 5-7 sections for medium tips; 8-12 sections for long tips. Generally, new shoots with mature branches and strong growth potential can be pruned appropriately; those with weak growth potential, poor maturity, and thin ones can be kept short; varieties with low strength at the base of branches and vines should be pruned with medium and long shoots; those with sparse branches and vines should be pruned. In order to make full use of the space, it can be left for a long time; for those with strict pruning in summer, it can be cut short, and for new shoots that are allowed to grow, they should be left for a long time. ?

3. Renewal pruning: Cut back the branches and vines that have moved up or forward too fast in the fruiting parts, and use mature new shoots at or near their bases to replace them. Renewal and pruning are divided into single-branch renewal and double-branch renewal. Due to improper handling of single-branch renewal or light pruning, the germination of branches and vines is not strong, and it is difficult to form ideal preliminary branches at the base and difficult to master. I will not introduce it here, but only introduce the double-branch update. A branch group usually consists of a fruiting mother branch and a preparation branch.

To keep the mother branch long, use long and mid-shoot pruning, and use the lower one as a preliminary branch to leave 2-3 buds. Repeat the replacement every year. This method is more reliable and suitable for cultivating newer branches. Varieties with weak branching ability.

4. New shoots will begin to grow about a week after the grape seedlings are planted. Excess branches and vines should be removed in time and the main shoots should be retained. When the seedlings are about 35 cm tall, the tendrils begin to grow. The tendrils should be removed in time, and bamboo poles should be inserted to tie the tips in time to ensure that the main tips grow upright. Leave 2 to 3 leaves for topping on the primary secondary shoot that has sprouted, and 1 to 2 leaves for the secondary secondary shoot. When the seedlings are 70 to 80 centimeters tall, top off the main vines and leave a secondary shoot at the top to continue growing. When the top secondary shoot grows 50 to 60 centimeters, the main vine is topping for the second time, and another secondary shoot is left at the top to extend the growth. The first secondary shoot is left with 1 to 2 leaves for topping, and the second secondary shoot is left with 1 leaf for topping.

When the top secondary shoots grow another 30 to 40 cm, top the main vines for the third time. Leave 1 leaf on the secondary shoots to prevent winter buds from sprouting. In conjunction with pruning, you should apply callus antiseptic on the pruning opening in time. Film was used to seal the wound, and tree-protecting generals were sprayed throughout the park to sterilize and disinfect the area to reduce the source of germs.