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How to manage grafted citrus seedlings.
(1) Repair, bud removal and upright post

Check the survival condition 10 ~ 15 days after grafting, and replant in time if the grafted buds turn brown. Rootstock buds germinated on rootstocks should be removed in time to promote the growth of grafted buds and keep the stems of seedlings smooth. Sometimes bud grafting will sprout multiple buds, so we should remove the weak buds and leave the strong ones. Grafted buds sometimes germinate and have to be pulled out. After the new buds grow, they should be set up in time to prevent the seedlings from bending and the new buds from being blown off by strong winds from the interface. The post is inserted in the soil near the seedling. First, tie one end of hemp to the post, and then circle the seedling. Don't tighten it, then tie it to the post. Seedlings that do not survive after replanting should be cut off from the ground.

(2) Pruning and shaping to cultivate a tree with short stems and many branches.

When the spring shoots are mature, the excessively long branches should be cut short, and the trunk length should be 13 ~ 17 cm. Generally, the trunk length of seedlings should not exceed 23 cm. Grafted seedlings, the first branch is relatively short, can not reach the fixed stem height, you can cut it short on the second branch. When cutting, select the parts with uniform internodes, and cut the whole nursery into basically the same height to make the seedlings neat. When the new buds sprout after cutting the top, they should be wiped clean and put out. Generally speaking, after grafting, the germination of new buds is inconsistent and the second germination is irregular. When leaving buds, most seedlings are released only after 3-4 buds germinate. When the new branch grows to 2-3 cm, remove the buds that are too dense, too low, too strong and unevenly distributed, and select 3-4 evenly distributed new branches to form the first branch. Be sure to wait until the first branch is mature before cutting it short, leaving a length of 13 ~ 17 cm. Cutting the top too early is prone to single bud. When the second branch germinates, it is also "wiping the bud". After the first smear, put new branches from bottom to top for the second time, so that the branches below will start first. If the lower branch is weak, leave 1 ~ 2 new buds on each branch and pick the rest. The branches above will germinate after being rubbed again, leaving 2 ~ 3 new buds on each branch. More buds on the upper branches will weaken and shorten the new buds. After cutting the top, wiping the buds and releasing the buds, the seedlings with short stems and many branches are cultivated into fan-shaped seedlings.

Gao Qian traditional seedlings are 17 ~ 20cm long in spring, and summer shoots are not needed. Beginning of autumn cut the top before, the length of summer shoots is 17 cm, and put 3 ~ 4 autumn shoots.

(3) Fertilization, irrigation and pest control

Before grafting 1 month, the nursery should first apply heavy fertilizer to make the seedlings nutritious, juicy, soft, tough and robust. Apply quick-acting fertilizer again about 10 days before grafting. After grafting, fertilization is generally not applied until the spring shoots are mature. If the seedlings are not growing well, quick-acting fertilizer or decomposed liquid fertilizer can be supplemented appropriately. When the spring shoots stop growing, apply diluted water and fertilizer once. Before and after pumping summer shoots in Grain Rain, heavy fertilizer should be applied once to promote the growth of summer shoots, and it is best to cooperate with some bone meal or other phosphate fertilizers to make fibrous roots developed. Before applying bone meal, sow seeds in shallow ditches between rows, then pour water and fertilizer on them, and then cover the soil. 25 ~ 30 kg bone meal per 667㎡. Apply a thick layer of fertilizer before cutting the top to promote the germination of autumn shoots. During the growth of autumn shoots, quick-acting fertilizer can be applied as appropriate. For the seedlings to stay in the nursery for the winter, the fertilizer and water must be well controlled in winter to avoid sprouting late autumn buds or winter buds. In the following spring, heavy fertilizer should be applied before the buds germinate, and thin fertilizer should be applied again after the buds germinate. In the growth of each new shoot, besides fertilization, attention should also be paid to irrigation. In case of drought, spray water. There should be no water in the nursery to avoid root rot. After autumn shoots mature, water should be strictly controlled to prevent late autumn shoots and winter shoots from sprouting.

There are many pests and diseases in autumn bamboo shoots, so it is necessary to spray them in time. The leaf miner killed 4000 ~ 5000 times with the enemy, and the red spider sprayed 3000 ~ 4000 times with Puttan or 3000 times with propargite when the autumn shoots matured. The bordeaux mixture was used to control the canker of sweet orange. At the same time, when the new leaves began to turn green, 1 ~ 2 times of 0.3% urea was sprayed to promote the thick green leaves.

(4) Unbind

In summer, when the grafted seedlings turn green, they begin to release the film. Unbind too early, branches will break easily before they are ripe, and unbind too late. The plastic film is embedded in the cortex, and the seedlings turn yellow and break.

(5) Raising seedlings

Generally, the period of emergence depends on the planting period, which can be carried out from autumn before germination to spring of the following year, or during the dormant period of seedlings, and can be reserved in the heel. Seedling raising methods can be divided into two types: soil-carrying method and bare root method. The method with soil can be used for local planting or short-distance transportation, and the bare-root method is generally used for long-distance transportation.

Comprehensive pest control should be carried out before emergence. 2 ~ 3 days before emergence, the nursery should be fully watered or watered, and seedlings will begin to emerge after airing 1 ~ 2 days. When the soil is too wet, it is not easy to dig seedlings with soil, and it is easy to cut roots when it is too dry. When digging seedlings, first rake off the loose soil at the root of the ground, then dig out the seedlings with a hoe and shake off the soil. If it is planted locally, you can dig out the seedlings with a shovel. After the seedlings are dug out, they should be placed in the shade immediately, and then the seedlings should be selected and graded. Don't dig seedlings in rainy days, so as to avoid excessive moisture in the leaves of seedlings and falling leaves during transportation.

It is best to dip the seedlings that need long-distance transportation in mud first. The concentration of mud can be soaked in the roots, and then there is a thin slurry on them. Too thick mud is easy to suffocate the roots. After dipping in mud, every five trees are bound into a bundle, and every 10 is bound into a bundle. The roots are sealed with soaked straw, and then tied tightly with straw rope. Label, indicating the variety, rootstock, seedling age, grade, quantity, and date of nursery. The seedlings should be ventilated during transportation, but not exposed to the sun and rain to prevent the seedlings from getting hot. When it is found that the wrapped straw is dry during long-distance transportation, some water can be poured to keep the roots moist, but the leaves should not be wet to avoid falling leaves.

After the seedlings leave the nursery and before planting, it is best to go in first, especially the seedlings purchased from other places and transported for a long distance. In the heel, the row spacing is 50 cm× 60 cm, and double row or single row in the heel is ok, and single row is good. Because the single row border is small, the roots can be confined in the border, and the fibrous roots are numerous and thin, but they are more susceptible to drought, so it is best to cover the border. The methods of fertilizer and water management, pest control and shoot control are the same as those of grafted seedlings. After the seedlings enter the heel, the inferior seedlings and diseased seedlings should be eliminated, and large soil balls should be brought when they emerge, and then they should be planted in blocks according to the size, so that the orchard is neat and the survival rate is high.