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What should be considered and how to manage grapes?
I. Terrain conditions

1, latitude and altitude: most vineyards in the world are located between 20-52 degrees north latitude and 30-45 degrees south latitude, and most of them are in the northern hemisphere. The altitude is generally 400-600 meters. The altitude of grapes in China varies greatly between 30 and 43 degrees north latitude, about 200-1000 m; The distribution height of Huailai grape in Hebei Province is1100m; Xu Da county is1200m; The altitude of Shannan in Tibet is over1500m. Latitude and altitude are important factors affecting temperature and heat in a large range.

2. Slope direction and gradient: Under the condition of similar terrain conditions, the microclimate of different slope directions is obviously different. Usually the slopes facing south (including due south, northwest and southeast) receive more light and heat, and the temperature is higher on weekdays. The warming effect of sloping land is closely related to its slope. Generally, every tilt to the south 1 degree is equivalent to a forward 1 latitude. The hottest tilt angle is about 20-35 degrees (within 40-50 degrees north latitude). Grape is more suitable for cultivation on sloping land than other fruit trees because it is drought-resistant and barren-resistant, and can develop roots in a relatively small range. However, the greater the slope, the more serious the soil erosion. Therefore, it is necessary to give priority to the land with a slope below 20-25 degrees when planting grapes.

3. Influence of water surface: In large water areas, such as oceans, lakes, rivers and reservoirs, due to absorbing a lot of solar radiation energy, the temperature is lower than that of land in daytime and summer, but higher than that of inland at night and winter. Therefore, the coastal climate near the water area is mild and the frost-free period is long. The vineyards near the big water surface reflect a lot of blue-violet light and ultraviolet light in the deep water, and the berries are colored and of good quality, so when choosing vineyards, try to be close to big lakes, rivers and oceans.

Second, the soil conditions

Grapes can grow in various soils, such as desert, flood plain, saline-alkali land, rocky slope and so on, but different soil conditions have different effects on the growth and fruit of grapes.

1. Soil-forming parent rock and soil core: In the soil formed by limestone or soil with lime core, grape root system develops vigorously, sugar accumulates and aromatic substances develop more, and calcium in the soil has a good influence on the quality of wine. World-famous winemaking areas are located on this land, such as Champagne and Xia Lang de Konnek. But the soil layer is thin, and there is often a gravel layer under it, which is easy to cause water leakage and fertilizer leakage.

2. Soil layer thickness and mechanical composition: Generally, the soil layer thickness of vineyards should be above 80- 100㎝. Sandy soil has strong permeability, strong radiation in summer, large soil temperature difference, high sugar content and good grape flavor, but the soil is short of organic matter and poor in moisture and fertility. Clay has poor permeability and is easy to harden. Grape has shallow roots, weak yield and poor fruit. Sometimes the output is large, but the quality is poor. Generally speaking, grapes should not be planted on heavy clay. High-quality grapes can be planted on gravelly soil, such as gravelly Gobi soil in Lufan Basin, Xinjiang (gravel and sand are above 80%). After improvement, the grapes grow well.

3. Groundwater level: Grapes grow in moist soil and produce good fruits. Groundwater level has an influence on soil moisture, and the soil with low groundwater level has poor water storage capacity; The soil with high groundwater level and close to the ground is not suitable for growing grapes. The suitable groundwater level should be below1.5-2m. Under the condition of good drainage, grapes can grow and bear fruit well in the soil where the groundwater level is 0.7- 1 m above the ground.

4. Soil chemical composition: It is of great significance to the nutrition of grape plants. Generally speaking, grapes grow well in a slightly acidic environment with a PH of 6-6.5. In the soil with too strong acidity (pH close to 4), the growth is obviously poor, and in the soil with relatively strong alkalinity (pH 8.3-8.7), yellow leaf disease begins to appear. Therefore, the soil with too large or too small acidity needs to be improved before grapes can be planted. In addition, grapes are salt-tolerant plants in fruit trees and can grow well in places where apple, pear and other fruit trees can't grow.

3. Climate is the main index of grape variety zoning. The French believe that only grapes planted in specific soil can produce world famous wines with unique flavor. However, for the vast grape producing areas in the world, this situation of dividing grape regions by soil is not universal and absolute. The factors affecting the quality of grapes and wine are comprehensive. Only in most cases, climate often plays a leading role in the growth of grapes and the quality of wine. Climate has become the most important and active factor among many factors. Meteorological conditions such as illumination, measurement and precipitation are all necessary conditions for grape growth and fruiting, especially in summer and autumn.

1. illumination: solar energy is the only energy source for grape photosynthesis. It is the driving force of energy and material circulation of grapes. 90%-95% of grape yield and quality comes from photosynthesis. In many cases, the real solar energy consumed by photosynthesis has not reached 1% of the total solar energy. In China, the solar energy utilization rate of general vineyards is only about 0.5%. Grapes are light-loving crops. For thousands of years, people have erected and trimmed it in order to get more adequate and reasonable light.

2. Temperature: Temperature (heat) is the most important meteorological factor affecting the growth and fruit of grapes. Grape is a warm temperate plant, which needs quite a lot of heat. During the grape growing period (from budding to fruiting), the monthly average temperature is above 10 degrees, which varies with different varieties. Temperature also has an important influence on the growth and fruiting process of grapes. High temperature will do harm to grapes, but the degree is far less than that of low temperature. The harm of low temperature to grapes is a common problem in grape cultivation in the world, and low temperature limits the cultivation area of grapes. Grapes are generally planted in the northern hemisphere between 20-5 1℃ north latitude. The northern limit of European grape variety cultivation is the Rhine Valley in Germany, and the southern limit of cultivation extends to India. In the southern hemisphere, grapes are mainly planted at 20-40℃ south latitude. The limiting factors for the expansion of grape planting range in Europe to the equator are high temperature, disease and lack of sufficient low temperature to induce grape dormancy. The main limiting factor for the expansion of European grapes to the poles is that the growing season is short, which is not enough to ensure the maturity of fruits and vines and to resist the low temperature in winter.

3. Precipitation: The quantity and seasonal distribution of precipitation strongly affect the growth and development of grapes and the yield and quality of grapes. In some areas, the seasonal variation of precipitation of some cultivated varieties is one of the most important climatic factors for grape variety zoning. Due to different climate types in the world, the seasonal variation of precipitation shows significant differences. The seasonal distribution of climate precipitation in the Mediterranean is characterized by drought in summer and autumn and rainy in winter and spring. However, the climate of the main grape growing areas in China is monsoon climate (except Xinjiang), which is hot and rainy in summer and rainy in the south in spring, making it difficult to grow grapes. Except Xinjiang, it is not good for grapes, and the phenomenon of grape water shortage is very obvious.

How to choose varieties for developing grape planting?

When choosing the varieties to develop grape cultivation, comprehensive consideration should be given. First, it should be determined according to the purpose and purpose of training; Second, the comprehensive characteristics of varieties; Third, the market sales of varieties.

The basic requirements for selecting cultivated varieties are: the growth potential should be above medium, the yield should reach above medium level, the disease resistance is strong, the varieties cultivated in cold areas have strong cold resistance, and the varieties cultivated in southern areas have strong wet and heat resistance. Brewing varieties have heavy intrinsic quality, with sugar content of 16~ 17%, juice yield of over 70%, and special flavor and different colors. Fruit juice varieties require high sugar content and strong strawberry flavor; Fresh food varieties are required to have good internal quality and appearance quality, the ear of fruit is about 500 grams, the grain weight is more than 5 grams, the appearance is beautiful, the fruit is suitable for planting, the flesh is dense and crisp, the flesh is easy to separate, the sweetness and sourness are moderate (sugar content 15~20%, acid content 0.5~0.9%), and the fruit is resistant to storage and transportation. At present, seedless fresh food varieties have huge market potential and bright development prospects, especially the red seedless varieties with good quality, large grain size and storage and transportation resistance are favored by people, which is the development direction of fresh grape production.

Pest control. Poisonous bait or artificial capture can be used in areas where underground pests or scarabs are harmful in early spring. Before the rainy season, spray 240 times the same amount of Bordeaux mixture to prevent diseases. After entering the rainy season, disease prevention and treatment should be carried out according to the types of diseases. If white rot or black pox occurs, 200 times Bordeaux solution or 800 times special sterilization solution can be sprayed for 2~3 times, and downy mildew can be sprayed for 500~600 times Ruifu solution or 400 times Guoduofu solution 1~2 times. If the leafhopper is harmful, 1500 times of Shenwei EC can be added to the above chemicals.

7. How to determine the planting density of grapes?

The planting density of grapes depends on the cultivation frame and is related to varieties, topography, soil and field operation methods. Grape planting areas at home and abroad mostly adopt small-frame high-density cultivation, with 300~500 plants per mu. There are mainly two kinds of scaffolding in grape production in our province, hedge scaffolding and small scaffolding. Hedgehog cultivation, plant spacing is generally1× 2m; In greenhouse cultivation, the plant spacing is generally 0.6~ 1 m, and the row spacing is 3~4 meters.

8. How to dig the planting ditch?

In order to cultivate grape plants with developed roots and vigorous growth, planting ditches should be dug according to the row spacing before planting. When digging a grape planting ditch, it must be widened and deepened as much as possible, generally not less than 60 cm deep and wide. It is best to dig ditches in the autumn of the year before planting. When digging a ditch, put the topsoil and subsoil on both sides of the ditch, apply 8000~ 10000 kg of organic fertilizer and 50 kg of compound fertilizer per mu, mix them evenly with the excavated soil, and then backfill them into the ditch. Pay attention to fill in the bottom soil first, then fill in the surface soil, and finally irrigate and compact, harrow and plant.

9. How to prepare seedlings before planting grapes?

Before planting, take the grape seedlings out of the water storage ditch and pick out the dry seedlings or the seedlings with moldy and black branches, buds and roots. Bind the selected seedlings and soak them in clear water for one day and night. Seedlings should be trimmed properly before planting, and branches and vines can generally leave 2~3 buds; Gently cut off the root tip. This is beneficial to promote the generation of new roots and the growth of root groups. In order to control short-bearded mites, scale insects, white rot, powdery mildew, anthracnose and so on. The bundled branches and branches of seedlings can be soaked in 5 waves of mixed liquid of smectite and sulfur and 0. 1~0.3% sodium pentachlorophenol disinfectant for 3~5 minutes, then taken out to dry, and then the roots are dipped in mud. Before transportation and planting, seedlings should avoid sun exposure and air drying, and pay attention to moisturizing.

10, how to determine the planting time of grapes? How about the method?

(1) planting time. The suitable period for planting grape seedlings can be from defoliation dormancy to grape bleeding in the next year. Sowing in spring in most parts of northern China. When the soil temperature reaches 7~ 10℃ (usually in early April in Shandong), it can be planted in the field.

(2) Planting method. According to the plant spacing, dig a planting hole in the planting ditch, the length, width and depth of the planting hole are generally 40 cm, then put the prepared seedlings into the hole, and make the roots of the seedlings naturally stretch and distribute evenly around. Fill a part of the soil first, then gently lift the seedlings to make the roots closely connected with the soil, and then fill the soil until the ground is stable. The planting depth can generally be planted according to the seedling depth of the nursery. After planting, water the seedlings in time, cover them with fine soil after water infiltration, and bury the seedlings in a small mound to keep them moist and dry, so that they can germinate early.

1 1. How to tie branches and vines?

Lead binding is the directional positioning and binding of grape branches and vines. By binding, the angles of branches and vines can be adjusted, so that they can be distributed reasonably and evenly on the shelf surface, and the light energy can be fully utilized to promote the growth and development of new shoots. In spring, tying the main lateral vines and fruiting mother branches before the grapes germinate is called tying the old vines. The binding of new buds is generally carried out when it grows to 30~40 cm. There is a strong spring breeze in the north of China. In order to prevent the new tip from being scraped off or broken, it needs to be tied in time. The binding material can be hemp skin, plastic rope, etc. The knot tied to the tip requires that one end tied to the wire should be "dead" and the other end tied to the new tip should be "alive" to leave room for the new tip to grow. The common tie button is horseshoe button.

12. How to germinate and bud?

After the grapes germinate, it is necessary to choose the advantages and disadvantages of buds, leave strong and suitable buds, and remove unnecessary buds. This is called bud removal or bud wiping. Bud removal is carried out during germination. Because of the heterogeneity of buds, the germination of buds is irregular, which requires many times of bud removal, and the time of bud removal takes 15~20 days. The first germination took place 10~ 15 days after germination. First, the hidden buds sprouted on the old vine and the secondary buds in the crooked buds, weak buds, double buds and triple buds on the fruiting mother branch, as well as the buds that are obviously not intended to be kept, are erased. The buds removed account for about 60~70% of the total number of buds removed. The second bud smearing should be carried out when it can be seen whether the new shoots have inflorescences or not, and the number of buds should be determined according to the plastic pruning and the load of the new shoots. How many new fruiting branches should be left per plant depends on tree potential, age, variety, management conditions and yield. The general principle is to keep sprouting early and sprout late; Keep full buds and remove thin buds; Keep the fruit buds and remove the fruitless buds; Leave the upper bud and remove the upper bud; Leave the main bud and remove the secondary bud. 15~20 buds/m2 frame culture; Hedge leaves 10~ 15 buds per square meter. The number of remaining buds can be appropriately increased or decreased according to the tree potential of different varieties.

13, how to take a new shot for coring?

When a new grape branch grows to a certain length, it is called removing the heart and removing the top. The time and weight of new shoots vary with varieties, tree potential, soil conditions and cultivation management techniques. By removing the core, the growth of new shoots is temporarily terminated, so that nutrients are supplied to inflorescences in a centralized way to ensure the needs of flowering and fruit setting. Varieties with low fruit-setting rate can be pitted 3~5 days before flowering; Varieties with high fruit setting rate can be carried out 4~5 days after flowering; Varieties with moderate fruit setting rate generally pick their ears at the early flowering stage.

Light pit removal is important and moderate, and light pit removal (only tip removal) has no obvious effect on varieties with low fruit setting rate; Re-enucleation (leaving 2~4 leaves above inflorescence) is beneficial to fruit setting rate, but insufficient leaves affect photosynthesis and adversely affect berry growth and development. Generally, it is more appropriate to leave 6~8 leaves above the inflorescence for coring.

14, how to deal with the second prompt?

After the main branches of grapes are picked, the auxiliary branches begin to grow vigorously, which will cause the disorder and closure of the shelf surface. At the same time, the excessive growth of auxiliary branches will also consume a lot of nutrients in the tree, so it must be treated in time. There are two common methods to deal with secondary branches: one is to leave secondary branches under the inflorescence, 1~2 leaves for the secondary branches above the inflorescence, and 1~2 leaves for the secondary branches and tertiary branches, and repeat them until they stop growing. This method can increase the leaf area of the whole new shoot, but it is more troublesome to manage. The second method is to keep only the upper two branches, and only 3-4 leaves are left in each branch, and 1-2 leaves are left to germinate again, and all other branches are removed. This method is more convenient and labor-saving in management, but the whole new tip leaf area is small and the fruit is easy to get sunburned.

15, how to lose weight and trim ears?

In recent years, both at home and abroad have attached great importance to the inflorescence shaping and fruit thinning of fresh grapes. The purpose of inflorescence shaping and fruit thinning is to improve the uniformity of ear, improve the quality of color, fragrance, taste and shape of berries, improve the competitiveness of commodities in the market and increase economic benefits.

(1) Sparse inflorescence. Sparse the weak, deformed, over-dense and dislocated inflorescences on the fruiting branches, so that nutrients can be concentrated on the reserved inflorescences. According to the experience at home and abroad, for most kinds of fresh food, the method of "strong 2, bell 1, weak without inflorescence" can be used to sparse inflorescences, even if the strong bearing branch leaves two inflorescences, the middle bearing branch leaves 1 inflorescence, and the weak bearing branch leaves no inflorescence. Sparse inflorescence should be consistent with load yield index. The yield of fresh seeds should be moderate, neither too high nor too low. Generally, the yield per mu should be controlled at 1500~2000 kg, and the number of inflorescences left on the branches should be determined according to the yield.

(2) peak shaping. In order to make the ear shape beautiful, the fruit grains are neat and mature, and the fruit setting rate is high, the spike tip at the front end of inflorescence 1/4~ 1/5 should be pinched once 3~5 days before flowering, which is called spike pinching. Pinching the tip of the ear not only achieved the purpose of thinning some buds, but also reduced the possibility of "water tank disease" at the tip of the ear. In order to achieve the same goal, some varieties with secondary ears can also be cut off, which is called secondary ear removal.

(3) thinning the fruit. For some varieties with high commodity value, in order to make the ear more beautiful and the fruit grains bigger and more tidy, we can further prune the ear and remove some underdeveloped and most fruit grains. The suitable fruit thinning time is about the size of soybean grain after fruit setting. The number of fruit grains depends on the variety, and it is generally appropriate to leave about 50 grains.

16. Why do grapes need pruning? How to shape and trim?

Grape pruning is an important technical measure in cultivation management. Grape is a kind of climbing vine, which grows in a natural state without a certain tree shape, with dense branches and vines. Nutritional growth consumes a lot of nutrients, resulting in less fruits, poor quality, serious pests and diseases and a large waste of space. In order to reasonably keep the branches and vines and create good ventilation and light transmission conditions, the grape plants were artificially intervened and induced by pruning to make them grow and develop according to people's wishes, make full use of shelf space, and adjust the relationship between vegetative growth and reproductive growth, so as to achieve the goal of sustained high yield and high quality.

Grapes are pruned in winter and summer, and the vines are tied to the shelves. Shaping is the basis and premise of pruning, which is realized through pruning. Pruning is a means of plastic surgery, and it is also a supplement and continuation of plastic surgery. Grape planting will focus on forming in 2~3 years. According to the designed tree shape, all branches and vines will be arranged in a certain order, making full use of the shelf surface to keep the tree potential balanced. After three years of planting, under the principle of maintaining tree shape, pruning is the main method, and branches and vines are kept long, shortened or cut off as needed to maintain reasonable layout and stable yield.

17, when is the right time to prune grapes in winter?

Grapes can be pruned from defoliation to 2-3 weeks before bleeding in the next spring. In the cold-proof areas buried in the north, winter pruning is mostly carried out after the grapes have fallen leaves and before the soil is frozen. Jinan is generally in the early days of 1 1. Cold-proof areas without soil are mostly carried out in the middle of winter to one month before injury. The coastal areas of Shandong Peninsula are generally carried out in1~ February.

18, how to trim the hedge frame in a fan shape?

Hedgehog sector pruning is the most widely used pruning form. Its advantages are many vines on the main side of the plant, easy molding, rational use of shelf surface, early fruiting, fast fruiting, high yield, flexible pruning and easy updating. However, the pruning technology is very demanding. If you don't master it well, it is easy to make the subordinate relationship of the shelf surface disorder, or leave too many branches, resulting in closed shelf surface, poor ventilation and light transmission, which will affect the yield and fruit quality.

The fan-shaped pruning of the hedge frame shall be carried out in the following time sequence:

In the first year, in order not to leave the trunk, when planting seedlings, the aboveground part must not be too long, and generally only 2~3 buds can be left. If the vines are too long and the germination rate is low, the main vines will form less in that year, and the trunk will form easily, which is not conducive to hiding from the cold and burying. In general, it is appropriate to leave 3~4 branches and vines for fertilizer and water. When the new shoot grows to about 1 m, the core is removed, and then the growth of the secondary shoot is properly controlled to promote the thickening growth of the main shoot. When pruning in winter, cut off the thick branches by more than 50 cm to become the main vines in the future, and then cut off the thinner branches appropriately to promote the emergence of strong branches in the next year.

After germination in the second year, select 2~3 new buds with good growth and development and suitable position on each main vine, and smooth the rest. If the main vines were insufficient last year, new shoots with good growth can be selected at the base of the plant to continue to cultivate the main vines. When pruning in winter, the stout branches at the top of each main vine are selected as the main long branches, and the middle and long branches are pruned, and the rest can be pruned at the middle and short branches to cultivate the fruiting mother branches.

In the third year, continue to cultivate the main vines and thick branches according to the above methods. When the main vine reaches the third height and forms 3~4 branches, the tree is basically formed. The number of main vines for fan-shaped pruning of hedge frame depends on the plant spacing. When the plant spacing 1.5~2 meters, 4~6 main vines can be left, which is called "big fan". When the plant spacing is less than 1.5m, three or four main vines can be left, which is called "small fan". Results The mother branches were pruned with long, medium and short branches, but the middle and short branches were mainly pruned, and generally no backup branches were left.

20. How do grapes survive the winter safely?

The lowest temperature in winter in Shandong Province is often below-10℃, and the extreme lowest temperature can reach below -20℃. At this point, the grapes have entered a dormant period. Although grapes have strong cold resistance during dormancy, too low temperature will also cause freezing damage to plants. Generally, grapes need to be buried in the north with an annual average absolute low temperature of-15℃ for cold protection, so that they can survive the winter safely. The time and method of burying grapes for cold protection vary greatly due to different geographical latitudes, and the time of burying grapes should be carried out before soil freezing. If it is too early, the buds will be moldy due to the high soil temperature and humidity. If it's too late, it's difficult to borrow soil because the soil is frozen, and the clods are large and the soil is not tightly sealed, so the purpose of cold protection can't be achieved.

There are three ways to bury grapes for cold protection:

(1) Ground burying method: press the pruned plants on the ground, and then seal them with mulch. The covering thickness depends on the lowest temperature in winter, generally covering15 cm at-10℃; When the temperature is-15℃, cover the soil for 20 ~ 25 cm. The lower the temperature, the thicker the soil covered. This method is suitable for hedgerow young forest close planting garden or places with high groundwater level.

(2) Underground burying method: dig a ditch with a depth of 30-50 cm and a width of 30-50 cm along the extension direction of plant branches and vines, straighten the branches and vines, press them into the ditch, and then cover them with soil. This method is suitable for old vineyards with more scaffolding and vines.

(3) Local soil burying method: soil can be buried at the base and tip. Buried soil is used in the base, and plants are not pruned or removed in winter. A mound with a height of about 50 cm is cultivated in the plant base. This method is suitable for varieties with strong cold resistance and drought resistance and areas with winter temperature below-10℃ and high air humidity. Burying the tip is to bend the new tip and some branches and vines, and then bury them tightly with soil. This method is labor-saving and simple, but the cold-proof effect is poor.

22. How to store cuttings and seedlings?

Grape cuttings and seedlings are generally stored in ditches. The storage ditch should be selected in a cool place with high terrain and good drainage. The width, depth and length of the ditch depend on the number of cuttings and seedlings. Generally, the depth of the ditch is 1 ~ 1.2m, and the width is1~1.5m. The seedling-storing ditch can be shallower.

When storing cuttings or seedlings, first spread a layer of wet sand at the bottom of the ditch, then put the tied cuttings horizontally or vertically in the ditch, and fill fine sand between the tied cuttings and the cuttings, especially between the roots, to avoid mildew when the humidity is slightly high. After the cuttings or seedlings are buried, cover them with sand or soil for 20~30 cm. In cold areas, with the decrease of temperature, the soil can gradually thicken.

In order to improve the storage quality and prevent the cuttings or seedlings from becoming moldy and losing their germination ability during storage, it is necessary to soak them in Pomei 5-degree sulfur mixture for 1~3 minutes before storage, take them out and dry them, and pay attention to controlling the temperature and humidity during storage. The temperature is about 0℃ and the humidity is 8~ 10%. When the temperature rises to about 10℃ in early spring, it should be checked frequently. Check whether the bud eye is moldy or budding, cut it with a knife, and check whether the cuttings or seedlings are still fresh. If it is yellow, it means water loss, and water should be sprayed immediately to raise the temperature; If mildew occurs, it can be soaked in 5% ferrous sulfate or 0.3% potassium permanganate solution for 2~3 minutes in sunny days, dried and stored, and then cut or planted after being taken out.

23. How to apply base fertilizer to vineyards?

Most of the base fertilizer is applied after the grapes are harvested in autumn. At this time, applying base fertilizer can quickly restore tree vigor. Grape plants grow in summer, and the trees consume a lot of nutrients, so they need to be supplemented urgently. At this time, the higher temperature is beneficial to the decomposition of organic fertilizer, and the leaves of the plant still have strong photosynthetic capacity. After applying base fertilizer, leaves will continue to produce a lot of nutrients, which will promote the full maturity of new shoots and the deep differentiation of flower buds. The nutrients will be stored in roots and stems, laying a good material foundation for the overwintering and growth of grapes in the coming year. If basal fertilizer is applied in early autumn, the cut roots will heal quickly and grow new roots soon. If fertilization is applied in spring, the above effect will not be achieved. In spring, the soil temperature is low, rising slowly, the root system is not easy to heal after cutting, and the fertilizer decomposition is slow, which can not meet the needs of vigorous growth of grapes in spring.

The application of base fertilizer is mainly organic fertilizer, with appropriate amount of chemical fertilizer. Annual fertilization, base fertilizer should account for 80~90%, topdressing should account for 10~20%. Under the condition of sufficient organic fertilizer, 6000~8000 kilograms of high-quality farm manure can be applied per mu, or no or less chemical fertilizer can be applied, which not only improves the quality of berries, but also reduces the cost of fertilizer. Base fertilizer is mostly applied in furrow, and the depth and width of furrow increase with the increase of tree age. Small trees can dig ditches on both sides of planting ditches or between plants. Adult trees generally adopt the method of alternately ditching and applying base fertilizer every other year, with the ditch depth of 40~60 cm, shed cultivation of 60~80 cm and the ditch width of about 50 cm.