I. Historical development
Li Jin is a "living fossil" in the textile history of China, with a history of more than 3,000 years. It is the earliest cotton textile in China. As early as the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, it was called "northern Hebei cloth" in history books, and its textile skills were ahead of those of the Central Plains 1000 years. Hainan Island became the birthplace of China cotton textile industry because of Li Jin. Li Jin's costumes are colorful, including tube skirts, headscarves, ribbons, bags, sheets, quilts (called "Yazhou quilt" in ancient times) and so on. Li Jin's tube skirts made of Li Jin and fabrics are colorful. Li women should use mica sheets, shell sheets, silver sheets and glass beads to put on the tube skirts inlaid with jewels and shine when walking or dancing. Li Jin's skirt in Run Dialect Area (Baisha District) is the shortest tube skirt in all branches, which can be said to be the earliest miniskirt.
Li Jin was famous in the Spring and Autumn Period and was the earliest cotton textile industry in China. Li Jin includes tube skirts, headscarves, flower ribbons, wrapping ribbons, bed sheets and quilts (called "Yazhou quilt" in ancient times). There are four major processes: spinning, weaving, dyeing and embroidery. Most of the colors are brown-black, blue, red, white, blue, yellow and other colors alternate with each other, which is suitable for preparation and rich in ethnic decorative flavor, forming exotic flowers, exotic grasses and exotic birds. Li Jin is thin, light, soft, white and durable, unparalleled in the Central Plains. "Li Jin is brilliant as a cloud" is the sincere praise of the ancients for Li Jin's craft. In ancient China, cotton was imported from India, South America and other places via Hainan Island by sea.
Before Song Dynasty, the cotton textile technology of Li nationality was far ahead of that of Han nationality in Central Plains. In the Yuan Dynasty, Huang Daopo improved the spinning and weaving technology of Li nationality and spread it to the mainland, which quickly promoted the development of cotton textile industry in the lower reaches of the Yangtze River, and set off a "cotton revolution" praised by scholars at home and abroad for hundreds of years, which made cotton fabrics replace linen as a necessity, and Huang Daopo became the ancestor of China textile industry. In ancient times, it was called "northern Hebei" cloth, "Yazhou quilt" and "cotton cloth", which was a kind of characteristic cloth of Li nationality and had been popular as far back as the Spring and Autumn Period. This is the earliest cotton textile in China. Li people use cotton wool and ramie fiber in kapok capsules, as well as shrub cotton such as island cotton, Brazilian kapok, continental cotton and kapok from the United States and India, mainly weaving embroidery and dyeing flowers, with less embroidery. Using natural plant pigment as pigment, a kind of special floral cotton cloth (linen and cotton as warp and weft respectively) is woven. Because kapok is also called northern Hebei, Li Jin is also called northern Hebei. Li Jin is thin, light, soft, white and durable. As the old saying goes, "Li Jinzhao is like a cloud". Before Song Dynasty, the cotton textile technology of Li nationality was ahead of that of Han nationality in Central Plains. Later, shrub cotton was gradually introduced into southern China from Hainan Island. In the Yuan Dynasty, Huang Daopo improved the textile technology of Li nationality and spread it to the mainland, which quickly promoted the development of cotton textile industry in the lower reaches of the Yangtze River and set off a "cotton revolution" praised by scholars at home and abroad for hundreds of years.
Two. use
Li Jin is mostly used in women's tube skirts, shake pockets and other daily necessities. Now there is a research and production institute in Tongshi, Hainan. The wonderful work of textile art in China.
Three. characteristic
It is beautifully made, colorful, full of exaggeration and romance, with exquisite patterns and harmonious colors. Flowers, birds, animals and figures are lifelike, and it has its own national characteristics in spinning, weaving, dyeing and embroidery. Li brocade mainly weaves embroidery and dyes flowers, with little embroidery. Li people everywhere have created various weaving, dyeing and embroidery skills according to their own preferences. For example, the Li nationality in Baisha County has a kind of colorful embroidery with double-sided processing, which is exquisite, colorful and unique, and is known as the "Shuang Mianxiu" of Suzhou embroidery.
Four. craftsmanship
Li Jin is mainly made of cotton thread, supplemented by hemp thread, silk thread and gold and silver thread. The Li nationality in the east and the Yangtze River valley created a brocade technology combining tie-dyeing and weaving. Warp yarns are usually dyed by tie-dyeing. The warp yarns are woven on the binding frame and then bound with yarns. After dyeing, the yarn is removed, that is, the pattern of blue and white flowers appears, and then it is woven into colored weft. Textile and knitting tools still use ancient traditional tools, such as hand-rubbing cross bars, wooden hand-ginning machines, pedal spinning machines and looms.
Verbs (abbreviation of verb) are diversified.
Li Jin's varieties include women's skirts, tops, trousers, bed sheets, headscarves, belts, bags, shawls, shoes and hats, etc. There are more than 100 patterns of Li Jin, including horses, deer, turtledoves, snakes, frogs, peacocks, chickens, bamboo, rice, flowers, water, clouds and stars, which are mostly composed of simple straight lines, parallel lines and geometric figures such as squares, triangles and diamonds. In color, he is good at using light and shade, and the four colors of cyan, red, black and white cooperate with each other to form an artistic effect with strong color contrast.
6. Li Jin is divided into four major processes.
1. canine teeth
The main tools are hand-twisted spinning wheel and pedal spinning wheel. Hand-twist spinning is the oldest spinning process of mankind, and the tool used in this process is a spinning wheel. There are extremely rich textile raw materials such as kapok and wild hemp in the Li inhabited area. Before the popularization of cotton textiles, wild hemp textiles were popular in Li nationality areas. People usually peel off the collected wild hemp skin in rainy season and dye it into hemp after soaking, rinsing and other processes. After linen is dyed, it is rubbed into linen yarn by hand or twisted into cloth by spinning wheel. Wild flax has a solid texture and is mostly used to make coats and skirts for work.
dye
Dyes are mainly made from wild or domestic plants in mountainous areas. These dyes are bright in color, not easy to fade and have a wide range of sources. Dyeing is an important empirical knowledge of Li people. There is also a tie-dyeing technique in Mobil dialect area, which was called wringing dyeing in ancient times. It is unique in our country to bind the warp yarn first, then dye the silk thread, and then weave the fabric, and skillfully combine the binding, dyeing and weaving processes.
weave
Looms are mainly divided into pedal looms and waist looms. Yao Ju loom is a very old loom, which is very similar to the loom used by Banpo clan six or seven thousand years ago. Li women can weave exquisite and gorgeous complex patterns on looms, and their jacquard technology makes modern large-scale jacquard equipment far behind. Li Jin, with different patterns, colors and styles, was once an important symbol to distinguish different blood tribal groups and had extremely important humanistic value.
embroidery
Li embroidery is divided into single-sided embroidery and Shuang Mianxiu. Among them, Shuang Mianxiu, a woman's blouse in Baisharun dialect area, is the most famous. An Introduction to Ethnology in China, edited by Mr. Liang, a famous ethnologist in China, describes it this way: "The local Li women of the Li nationality (that is, the Run dialect Li nationality) are longer in length, but they are characterized by exquisite composition and modeling. The Shuang Mianxiu they stabbed was as beautiful as Han Shuang Mianxiu in Suzhou. "
The four major processes of spinning, weaving, dyeing and embroidery of the Li nationality are all rich in their own characteristics, and people of the Li nationality everywhere have created a variety of weaving, dyeing and embroidery processes according to their own preferences. For example, besides plane embroidery, Li people in Baisha County have also created a kind of color embroidery with double-sided processing, which is exquisite, colorful and unique, and has the beauty of "Shuang Mianxiu" of Suzhou embroidery. Embroidery is the best in Shuang Mianxiu and is usually used for women's wear.
Seven. Li Jin's pattern
Brocade design of Li nationality is a cultural phenomenon that reflects women's aesthetic consciousness, lifestyle, cultural customs, religious beliefs and artistic accumulation. Its content mainly reflects the production, life, marriage and love, religious activities and legendary auspicious or beautiful images of the Li nationality. According to incomplete statistics, there are more than 100 kinds of brocade patterns, which can be roughly divided into humanoid patterns, animal patterns, plant patterns, geometric patterns, and patterns reflecting daily production appliances, natural phenomena and Chinese characters symbols. Among them, figures, animals and plants are the most commonly used brocade patterns.
1. manikin
There are mainly wedding photos, dancing photos, photos of youth and happiness, photos of 100 people, photos of happy harvest, photos of prosperous people, photos of grazing, photos of auspicious peace and so on. It embodies people's strong desire for fertility, prosperity and future generations and their pursuit of a better life. Through exaggeration and deformation, Li women reflect the life and production scenes of Li people on the fabric, making the pattern modeling visual and artistic. The most representative is wedding photos, which are mainly popular in Ledong, Sanya, Dongfang and other cities and counties. This is a typical human model. It reflects the wedding etiquette and customs of the Li nationality, such as welcoming the bride, seeing the bride off, giving bride price, visiting the church and so on, and depicts the pictures of the bride and groom and many villagers who came to attend the wedding. Its scene is open, warm and spectacular, rich in content, with distinctive national characteristics and strong regional customs.
2. Animal patterns
There are mainly dragons and phoenixes, yellow _, buffaloes, water deer, fish and shrimp, frogs, crows, pigeons, bees and butterflies. Among them, dragon pattern and frog pattern are the most common. Dragon pattern is the most common Li brocade pattern popular in Baisha and Qiongzhong, which reflects that Li people regard dragon as a symbol of nobility, auspiciousness, happiness and beauty. Frog patterns are widely circulated among the people. In the traditional concept of Li nationality, frogs have the function of expressing maternal love and avoiding evil spirits. The frog pattern reflected in the clothing has a strictly symmetrical structure, with the "sky" pattern as the main body and four abstract frog patterns in the middle. Through dynamic and static contrast, the main characteristics of frog life in the wild are displayed, with rich pictures and coordinated rhythm. In some places, the frog pattern is exaggerated and deformed, omitting the frog's front legs and lengthening the hind feet, showing the frog's eagerness, bold design, simple shape and unique national style.
3. Plant grains
There are mainly kapok, tender mud flower, dragon bone flower, bamboo green flower and other flowers, as well as vines, trees and grass. Common patterns include kapok patterns and flower patterns. Kapok is one of the main raw materials of Li nationality's textile. Li women generally like to use kapok patterns as brocade patterns. The patterns are mainly kapok trees, with roots and branches, and there are key patterns (also known as "arbitrary flowers"), flowers and green leaves under the branches, which symbolize deep roots and lush leaves and family happiness. Among the costume patterns in Wuzhishan area, flowers and plants are very popular. The pattern is marked by a long column diagram, and the overall decoration is similar to the inverted "towel" shape in Chinese, with continuous weeds and diamond patterns. It means deep roots and flourishing families.
4. Geometric texture
It is a pattern composed of straight lines, parallel lines, squares, diamonds and triangles. , which is displayed on clothes with abstract patterns, reflects some characteristics of primitive thinking. Rich in content and colorful.
5. Daily life
Mainly cooking, playing ball, spinning, farming, carrying pole and splitting. Most of these patterns are created by Li women based on their careful observation and understanding of life and their artistic imagination.
6. Natural phenomena
It mainly includes the sun, moon, stars, thunder and lightning, fire and water. Li nationality is a nation that worships nature, and the worship of nature has always influenced the development of brocade patterns.
7. Chinese character symbol patterns
There are happy words, blessing words, Lu words, longevity words, ten thousand words and so on. Li people only have language, not words. Influenced by China culture, some brocade patterns gradually adopt Chinese characters. These China font costumes reflect people's pursuit of a happy life, hoping for health and longevity.
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