Introduction of women's wear in Qing dynasty
women's clothes
According to the records in The Book of Rites of the Qing Dynasty and The Book of Rites of the Qing Dynasty, women's daily clothes are strictly regulated and restricted by law. Of course, there are more kinds of clothes because they are not bound by grades. It's also a lot more casual to hold. Only for slaves, actresses and soap, silk, silk, yarn, silk, satin and silk are not allowed. And Luo and other high-grade raw materials, there are no fine leather, fine wool, sapphire raw materials, and there are no precious decorations such as pearls, jade, gold and silver, precious stones, but only kudzu vine, woven cloth, brown skin and cocoon? Low-grade raw materials with rough texture such as raccoon skin and sheepskin. What if it appeared at that time? Time dress? It was first adopted among the nobles. During the imperial rule, people's clothes and make-up were not easy to change. As for it? Strange clothes? It is forbidden to exist.
Buttons were widely used in the Ming Dynasty, mainly used in dresses, but rarely used in uniforms, and became popular in the late Ming Dynasty. After the Qing dynasty entered the customs, buttons were widely used and became a necessity for clothing. Influenced by the armor of the Eight Banners and the import of foreign goods, folk buttons are gradually widely used in the collars and lapels of clothes. Before the Ming Dynasty, collars were mostly horizontal collars, horizontal collars and round necks. Since the buttons were used to raise the national flag in Qing dynasty, the shape of the collar began to change obviously. Before the Qing Dynasty, there was never a stand-up collar, the lapel was not exposed, the undershirt was different from before, and the wrapping decoration with large volumes was even more unusual, so there was a higher requirement for cutting and sewing technology.
Ancient costumes are highly respected? Official? And then what? What is the family like? Generally, new samples come from these styles first. After Qianlong, due to the exchange of goods at trading ports, new materials and new tricks appeared slowly, and Guangdong, Guangzhou, Suzhou and Hangzhou became? Fashion new clothes? The birthplace of; After Daoguang, the patterns became more and more new, but although there are many fashionable clothing styles, they can only be popular among nobles, and civilians can't imitate them at will.
Since Qianlong and Jiaqing, many flag girls have followed Hanfu's example, adding wide-sleeved mandarin jackets to the original narrow and long clothes, or widening the sleeves of shirts and gowns, and learning bad habits such as foot binding, which aroused the anger of Renzong and Xuanzong, and successively ordered the ban, and declared that the overseers and deputy overseers of the Eight Banners of Manchu, Mongolia and Han armies should check at any time. Offender hell to pay.
women's clothes
There are two kinds: auspicious clothes and mourning clothes. There are the following rules in the court: the crown of the empress dowager, empress, imperial concubine and imperial concubine is smoked with mink and decorated with Zhu Wei (a pattern); The color of the dragon robe is azurite with embroidery; The robe is bright yellow, and the lucky clothes of Prince Fujin and Prince Fujin are crowned with smoked minks and rubies on the top. Prince Fujin's auspicious clothes are embroidered with azurite; Prince Fujin embroidered robes, which are fragrant in color and embroidered with nine pythons and five claws; From the first grade to the ninth grade, the wives of civil and military officials wear complementary clothes, all of which follow their husbands' grades, and the shape of the complementary clothes is square. In the late Qing dynasty, the official wife used round compensation. Yipin civil servants embroidered cranes; Second-class embroidered golden pheasant; Three embroidered peacocks; Four kinds of embroidered geese; Five-needle embroidered silver pheasant; Six embroidered egrets; Seven products embroidery? [ 1]; Eight products embroidered quail; Nine-level uncultured embroidered magpie. The military attache embroidered Kirin; Second-class embroidered lion; Sanpin embroidered leopard; Four products embroidered tiger; Five embroidered bears; Liupin embroidery; Seven embroidered rhinos with eight products; Nine stitches embroidered seahorse. Ladies with no taste wear sky-blue dresses. No need for patches, red skirts and embroidered sleeves are free. And I can only use pink and light blue. Guan Feng (aka? Bead crown? Because the crown is mainly decorated with beads), there is no regulation on Xiaguan and python clothes. In short, all kinds of Ming clothes in Qing Dynasty were decorated with embroidered pythons. This is somewhat different from that of the Ming Dynasty. The gown of the Ming Dynasty embroidered not pythons, but only pheasants, peacocks, mandarin ducks and practicing magpies.
Women's mourning
Since ancient times, mourning clothes have also been classified into dresses and the like. Mourning can be divided into two parts: one part is prefabricated by the younger generation for the elderly? Shroud? ; One is what people wear at funerals. Officials take it? Shroud? They dress in grades, while civilian women wear blue or blue robes.
Participants should wear raw hemp, cooked hemp, coarse white cloth, fine white cloth, hemp crown, Ma Xie, straw sandals, flat shoes and other mourning clothes on a monthly basis. During mourning, women are not allowed to wear colorful flowers, pink, silk clothes or bright colors. Only white, gray, black and blue are allowed. This is the general rule of funeral, which varies according to local customs. In the south, people observe ancient rituals. For example, women wear coarse clothes, the edges are not sewn, and a linen skirt is tied under the waist. One side of her head is sewn with a piece of linen, which is hood-shaped. After wearing a hat, one side of the cloth is long and the other side is slightly shorter. In the north, the head is wrapped in a white cloth knot, and the shoes are wrapped in white cloth under unbounded coarse cloth, with heels, black heels of parents and red heels of grandparents.
Women's Wear and Public Service
It is the official official dress of the court from the empress dowager to the imperial concubine. The specific provisions and collocation of its robes and robes
The winter crown of the Empress Dowager and Empress is smoked mink. Zhu Wei is on the top, the top three floors. Decorated with pearls, golden phoenix, precious stones, fir and other ornaments, with a collar behind the crown and a yellow belt hanging down; The crown of Xia Dynasty is blue velvet.
The gold Covenant between Empress Dowager Cixi and Empress Dowager Cixi (ornaments made of gold) is decorated with lapis lazuli, turquoise, pearls and fir. The Empress Dowager and the Empress each have three earrings, and the golden dragon holds the first-class pearls: the earrings of the imperial concubine and the imperial concubine. The nobles in the palace have three holes in their ears and wear three pairs of earrings. The gowns of Empress Dowager Cixi, Empress Dowager Cixi and Imperial concubine are embroidered with azurite, Phnom Penh, Li Long, Zheng Long and Wan Fu Wan Shou. Yellow ribbons hung on the collar, decorated with jewels; There are also embroideries embroidered with Zheng Long, Walking Dragon or Standing Dragon and Babao Pingshui patterns.
The winter clothes of the Empress Dowager, Empress and Imperial concubine are bright yellow, lapels and sleeves are all azurite, and the upper and lower shoulders are covered with embroidery patterns such as Jinlong, Walking Dragon, Zheng Long and Babao Pingshui.
The contract between Empress Dowager Cixi and the Empress Dowager Cixi is made of wisps of gold, decorated with pearls, turquoise and fir. When Empress Dowager Cixi and Empress Dowager Cixi wore royal robes, three plates of beads were hung on their chests. Wearing auspicious clothes and hanging a plate of beads, all of which are high-grade ornaments such as pearls and fir; The beads of the imperial concubine, the imperial concubine and the princess are all decorated with Mipo. There are 108 beads in Korea, which are divided into four parts, separated by three big beads, and each part has 27 beads.
Empress dowager cixi, empress dowager cixi and imperial concubine are decorated with green flags, bright yellow tapestries and grain harvest embroidery.
The winter clothes of the Empress Dowager, Empress, Royal Highness and Royal Highness are all decorated with golden silk sea dragon's edge, red woven gold satin and azurite satin. Satin yarn is used for Xia skirt, and the pattern is the same as that of winter skirt.
The Evolution of Clothing in Qing Dynasty
Kangxi period
A brown robe with black collar and gold pattern is popular among aristocratic women, plus a light green robe with black edge and gold embroidery pattern. There are ornaments in front of lapels, a big bun on the head and a headscarf style. The maid wore a black collar, a green robe, golden buttons, a Cui Hua on her head and beads on her shoulders.
Qianlong period
The women wore light yellow shirts with pink trimmings and big black clouded vests. The skirt or trouser legs are inlaid with black embroidered railings and full of red bow shoes. There are also red embroidered shoes, white satin sleeves and wide columns. Some people wear turtleneck blue clothes with black trim. A string of Shankar is hung in front of their lapels, and small items such as clocks, toothpicks and incense sticks are hung on their buttons. Some still tie orange ribbons on the outside of their clothes, hanging them on both sides of the waist and buttocks flush with the shirts, and embroidery is at the end of the ribbons. Some still wear white gauze undershirts, black trousers, red belts, red Chinese-style chest covering and tongues at the heels.
Jiaqing and Daoguang years
Women wear blue and purple skirts with low collars. The mirror and bottom of the skirt are inlaid with black embroidered railings, and the cuffs are inlaid with full-color embroidered peony wide edges on a white background. There are also cuffs and skirts with wide railings, and the skirts hang down to the knees, and the clouds on the shoulders are comfortable. There are also some light red skirts, green flowers, a few broken branches embroidered on the mirror of the skirt, and tassels hanging on the clouds.
Tongzhi period
Popular blue satin, wide-brimmed silk belt, with a bandwidth of one foot or several feet, embroidered at both ends. Whether you wear a skirt or trousers, there is a custom of tying. It's best to hang down to your knees after you fasten your belt.
Guangxu middle period
Women's clothes are getting shorter and shorter, sleeves are getting wider and wider, and the belt is more than a foot above the knee. When walking, it flutters with the wind, and some tassels are sewn at the end of the belt, which swings around to show different effects. The main colors are lake blue and pink, as well as sapphire and scarlet.
Guangxu's last years
Women's wear is knee-length, decorated with large inlaid rollers, and sometimes 16 to 20 streamers are added to the skirt, each with a silver bell at the end, which makes a noise when walking, which is very funny. Hang gold or silver ornaments in front of the skirt, such as ear spoons, toothpicks, tweezers, etc. Some are small sachets full of spices, such as Mei Tan. Some people also carry a small mirror bag made of satin or silk, which contains balsam powder. At the same time, a new kind of clothing is popular in Shanghai. This new dress is decorated with inlaid rollers not only on the sleeves but also on the elbows. Clothes are narrower and longer than before, and pants are correspondingly narrower. With three or four pairs of bracelets. Such new clothes really make the female image more exquisite and dignified. This new form, which was slightly modified on the original basis, was fashionable at that time.
Late Qing dynasty
It is popular to put fake cuffs inside the sleeves, sometimes one or two, sometimes two or three. This kind of clothing, one is to show identity and wealth; The second is to strengthen the style and characteristics of the closed form of flag dress. Fake cuffs not only use exquisite materials, but also pursue the same decorative layout as cheongsam, adding gorgeous effect to the overall dress and strengthening the layering of decoration. The fake cuffs are connected layer by layer, showing the slender feeling of narrow sleeves.
Xuan Tong in the Early Republic of China
During this period, women's shirts and trousers were narrower than those in the last years of Guangxu, but their collars were higher, which could even cover their cheeks, like saddles. The mosaic decoration in this period is much simpler than before, but the decoration is still hung on the front of the front.
Women's wear in Qing Dynasty includes official clothes, dresses and uniforms. Public service is a service system stipulated from the queen to the seven-product maid; Clothing refers to folk auspicious clothes or mourning clothes. Wedding, funeral and birthday clothes are stipulated by the court according to the rank of married women; There are many forms of regular service, and it is much more free to exchange and take it.
Introduction of men's wear in Qing dynasty
Men's wear in the Qing Dynasty was dominated by robes and jackets, and the sleeves were horseshoe-shaped, which was unprecedented in previous dynasties. The robe is simple in shape and has a straight collar and a large lapel. The robe has seams at the front and back, and two slits at the hem. Lack of pants? ), four slits and no slits. In order to facilitate riding and shooting, the royal nobles wore robes with slits on all sides, that is, the front and back seams and the left and right sides of the clothes had slits, while the civilians wore slits on the left and right sides. A scarf? I don't open my robe. Chapter 94 of China's literary masterpiece A Dream of Red Mansions? Banquet begonia Jia mu flower viewing demon? In the section, there is a paragraph describing? What did Baoyu wear that day? A round fur coat was resting at home. When I heard that the old lady was coming, I went to change into an arrow sleeve under the fox's arm and put on a jacket on the fox's leg. It says here. A scarf? It's casual, not elegant, so the arrival of Jia Mu must be changed into casual clothes and formal clothes. In the Qing Dynasty, the outer coat of the robe did not have long knees, and the sleeves were wide and short. Accessories on clothes are complicated, such as ear spoons, tweezers and toothpicks, and some small models of ancient weapons, such as halberds and guns, are all hung on a gold and silver medal. Wearing accessories has become a fashion in Qing Dynasty.
In men's wear, mandarin jacket is the most popular, and mandarin jacket is one of the four uniforms of Manchu men. These four uniforms are dresses, uniforms, raincoats and travel clothes, while mandarin jackets are travel clothes. Since the mandarin jacket entered the rich family in Kangxi period, the military uniform has also followed this system. Historical materials "Yu Congkao? Where's the jacket? All the attendants and envoys are wearing short gowns, short gowns and battle gowns. Short gowns are also called mandarin jackets. Do you take them immediately? . As a kind of coat for external use, there are several different methods: single, clip and cotton. Generally, it is plain colors such as azurite, black and black, and it is customary not to use bright yarn raw materials. During the Qianlong period, there were official uniforms with fur lapels for nobles to wear, and the official uniforms worn by officials had suffixes on their chests. Mend your coat? . Mandarin jacket, also known as mandarin jacket? Desheng jacket? . The jacket in the early Qing Dynasty was sky blue. Rose purple was the best in Qianlong period, deep red (red and scarlet) was the most popular in the late Qing Dynasty, and light gray and camel color were popular in the Republic of China.
Yellow jacket
What is the best gown in Qing Dynasty? Yellow jacket? This binding force belongs to the highest reward of the emperor, and there are four kinds of people who can enjoy it:
(1) When the emperor goes out for a patrol, all the retinue ministers, that is, the minister in command, the minister in imperial court, the bodyguard, the servant chief and other confidants of the emperor, can also wear peacock feathers at the back end of the crown. This yellow jacket has no pattern. It is made of light yellow (bright yellow) yarn or satin. Also called? Work jacket? Therefore, people who leave their jobs should not bring them.
(2) The winners of the arena and the annual championship? Line circumference? At that time, ministers who donated precious animals can enjoy it. When holding a yellow jacket, civil servants use black buttons and military commanders use yellow buttons.
(3) Active combat can be enjoyed by outstanding senior military commanders or civilian soldiers.
(4) The special envoy of the imperial court told Chinese and foreign officials that they could be given special gifts, and if they were given gifts, they would ride horses around the Forbidden City. This ceremony was particularly popular during the Xianfeng period.
Mandarin jackets are divided into long sleeves and short sleeves, but the sleeves of mandarin jackets are wide regardless of length. There are several styles of mandarin jackets, such as double lapels, large lapels and pipa lapels. Use skirts to distinguish the scope of use. The double-breasted jacket is a formal suit, and the jacket with black trim on the large-breasted jacket on the right is a formal suit, but the jacket with short-breasted jacket, namely the pipa jacket (also known as? Oolong? ) The jacket is luggage.
From the records of imperial edicts on folk costumes issued by the imperial court during Shunzhi period, we can learn some specific situations of costume changes. In October of the first year of Shunzhi, it was ordered that civilian clothes should be made like lighting, and there was no provision for civilian clothes. It was stipulated in June of the second year of Shunzhi? (refers to? Shaved off) hair system, limited to ten days (within ten days) to do so, offenders kill without forgiveness. It is said that there was an old Han Chinese man at that time who was unwilling? Hair, so women should dress up as men (because the difference between men and women in ancient times is more obvious in skirts and buns, and it is easier for women to dress up as men). Due to refusal? Countless people were forced to die, and many people were forced to dress up as men. In November of the fourth year of Shunzhi, the system of official clothes and civilian clothes was determined, but only colors and materials were used, and the clothing style was still unclear. Until the Qianlong period, it was stipulated that the national flag was generally worn in cities and densely populated areas, and civilians in closed areas still did not wear mandarin jackets or red tassels. Even some men with braids wrap their braids around their heads and wear a felt hat, which is difficult to identify from the outside. Especially in the early Qing dynasty, the braid was very short, which was even more difficult to distinguish.
When Manchu entered the customs, men were forced to change clothes, and women's clothes were gradually realized.
At that time, women had great resistance to modification, and plain clothes were difficult to change. On the contrary, it greatly attracted Manchu people. Many banners also deliberately imitate Hanfu. Although Manchu foot-binding was banned again and again during the Qianlong period, the attraction of foreign women's clothing made many Manchu people disobey the law from time to time.
Mang cannon in Qing dynasty