When you go out, the skirt and trousers are more regular. It's usually black. On festive occasions, my wife wears red and my aunt wears pink. Widows wear black dresses, but after her husband died for many years, if her in-laws are in the hall, they can wear lake color or snow blue. The fine pleats on the skirt are the most rigorous test of a woman's manners. A girl with a good family education, even if she walks steadily, the pleated skirt is not motionless, but only the slightest shaking. Jasper, a small family who is not used to wearing skirts, feels stormy when she walks. Even more harsh is the bride's red dress, with a half-inch wide ribbon hanging around her waist and bells tied at both ends. There is only a faint tinkling sound when acting, like a wind chime on a pagoda in a distant mountain. As late as 1920, more chic and free pleated skirts became popular and were completely abolished.
Wearing leather clothes, but still can't afford some discrepancy, they are regarded as nouveau riche. Leather clothes have certain seasons and are classified in detail. If it is extremely cold in October, it is ok to wear three layers of skin. As for what skin to wear, we should consider the season and never consider the weather. Wear "little hair" in early winter, such as green sheep, purple lamb and pearl lamb; Then wear "medium hair", such as silver mouse, gray mouse, gray ridge, fox leg, fragrant shoulder and Japanese knife; Wear "heavy hair" in winter-white fox, green fox, western fox, mysterious fox and sable. Only people with fame can wear mink. People in the middle and lower classes used to be much richer than they are now, and most of them had a robe inlaid with gold, silver or sheepskin.
The girls' Zhao adds some color to the gloomy winter moon. Judging from the pictures of past dynasties, the wind pocket that Zhao Jun wore when he went out to the fortress was Eskimo, simple and generous, and there were many imitators of Hollywood stars. China/KLOC-Zhao in the 0/9th century is crazy and charming. It was a melon-skin hat with a circle of leather around the brim, a huge red velvet ball at the top, two pink ribbons hanging from the back of the head, and a pair of golden seals at the end of the ribbon, which often collided with each other. Paying too much attention to details is the main point of clothing in this period. In modern western fashion, there are all kinds of unnecessary embellishments, but they all have a purpose-to promote the blue of eyes, subsidize underdeveloped breasts, make people look taller or shorter, focus on the waist, and eliminate the excessive curve of buttocks ... The embellishment on ancient Chinese clothes is completely meaningless. If it is purely decorative, why are even the soles covered with complicated patterns? Shoes themselves rarely have the opportunity to show their faces in front of people, let alone the soles. The edge of the high bottom is also covered with dense patterns.
Coats are divided into "three inlays and three volumes", "five inlays and five volumes" and "seven inlays and seven volumes". In addition to inlaying and rolling, plum blossoms and chrysanthemums with mercury plates are shining on the hem and lapels, and the famous silk lace named "Linggan" is nailed to the sleeve, which is about seven inches wide and hollowed out to show the word "longevity". There are countless interesting spots here, so it is the consistent attitude of the idle class in China to constantly embellish, be unconstrained and unreasonable, and waste energy on irrelevant things. Only the most leisure people in the most leisure country in the world can appreciate the beauty of these details. It certainly takes art and time to make a hundred similar patterns without making serious mistakes; Appreciating it is equally annoying. It seems that the costume designers in ancient China don't know whether a woman is a grand view garden. Too much accumulation to concentrate. The history of our fashion, in a word, is the gradual subtraction of these embellishments.
Of course, it's not that simple. There is also alternating erosion of waist size. The first serious change occurred in the thirty-second year of Guangxu. Railways are no longer so rare, and trains have begun to occupy an important position in China people's lives. The fashion styles of major commercial ports quickly spread to the mainland. Clothes and trousers gradually shrink, and when the "dry" and wide rolls pass, only one is extremely narrow. The flat one is "leek edge" and the round one is "light fruit edge", also called "thread incense roll". In times of political and social unrest, such as the Renaissance in Europe, fashionable clothes are always tight on the body, agile and agile, and allow strenuous activities. In Italy in the fifteenth century, because underwear was too tight, elbows were bent, knees were bent, and joints of bones and muscles were split. China's clothes almost burst when the revolution was brewing. When the "little emperor" ascended the throne, his coat was like a sheath.
The function of China women's tight vest is really wonderful-the clothes are tighter and the body under the clothes is not very realistic. It doesn't look like a woman, but like a poetic soul.
The straight line of the long coat extends to the knee, and there are two narrow trouser legs hanging below, like a golden lotus with feet but no feet. I am embarrassed to tread lightly on the ground. The beauty of pencil pants lies in giving people a feeling of loneliness. In China's poems, "pity" is synonymous with "loveliness". Men often have a hobby of protecting the opposite sex, and in the transitional era when the green and yellow are not connected, the difficult life situation is even more exciting. Women with wide robes and big sleeves now feel that they can't be too lucky, but it's good for them to be unlucky. This is an extreme era. The shortcomings of the political and family systems were suddenly exposed. Young intellectuals hate everything traditional, even everything in China. Conservatives also increase pressure because of panic. Nervous arguments are going on all the time, at home, in newspapers and in entertainment places. Even the whitewashed civilized opera actors and aunts' ideal lovers borrowed the topic of their fiancé es to discuss current affairs on the stage, and they burst into tears. The ancient country that has always been calm has never been so turbulent. In that hysterical atmosphere, the "Yuanbao collar" came into being-a hard collar parallel to the tip of the nose, like a metal collar stacked one foot high in Myanmar, forcing women to stretch their necks. This scary dress is completely out of proportion to the next waist twist, and its top-heavy and unbalanced nature symbolizes that era. In the early years of the Republic of China, everything seemed clear for a while. Everyone seriously believes in Lu Sao's idealized humanism. Students enthusiastically support the voting system and are unfilial and free to fall in love. Even tried pure spiritual love, but it seems that it will not succeed. Fashion also shows unprecedented innocence, lightness and pleasure. The "trumpet sleeves" fluttered, revealing a large jade wrist. This blouse is very tight at the waist. Upper-class women wear skirts when they go out, and only a pair of knee-length shorts and stockings at home. Occasionally, the junction of trousers and socks boldly shows the knees. Women with ulterior motives often hang provocative long and wide light-colored silk belts at the bottom of their coats, with rows of ears floating at the end of the belts. Most of the fashions in the early years of the Republic of China were inspired by the West. It doesn't count if it is reduced, even if it is exempted. The neckline is dug into the shape of a circle, a square, a heart and a A Jin diamond. White silk scarves can be used in all seasons. The black embroidery on the heel of white stockings crawled on the calf like a bug. Socialists and prostitutes often wear simple glasses for beauty. It can be seen that imported goods are accepted indiscriminately. Warlords come and go, sand and stones fly behind the horseshoe, and the fashion of catching up with their own officials, government, law and stumbling is also changing. The hem of the short coat is round, pointed and hexagonal. In the past, women's clothes, like jewelry, were old and could be sold at any time. However, it was no longer popular in pawn shops during the Republic of China, because it was worthless after it passed.
The rapid development of fashion does not necessarily show lively spirit and novel ideas. On the contrary. It can represent slowness; Due to the failure of other activities, all the ideas flowed into the clothing field. In the period of political chaos, people can't improve their living conditions. They can only create their own personal environment-clothes. We all live in clothes.
192 1 year, women wear robes. The flag dress originated in Manchuria, from the moment when the flag bearer entered the customs, walked side by side with the clothes of Middle-earth, and they were not guilty of each other. Their women think their cheongsam lacks feminine beauty and want to wear more attractive jackets and pants instead. However, the emperor issued a letter and strictly prohibited it. After the peace of the five ethnic groups, women all over the country suddenly adopted cheongsam, not because they were loyal to the Qing Dynasty and advocated the restoration movement, but because women deliberately imitated men. In China, since ancient times, women have been synonymous with "three locks of hair and two clothes". There is a subtle difference between one-piece and two-piece packaging. There seems to be nothing unfair, but women in 1920 tend to become more worried. At first, influenced by western culture, they were fascinated by the theory of equal rights between men and women, but the actual situation around them was far from ideal. In shame and indignation, they rejected everything feminine and wanted to strangle women's roots. Therefore, the earliest developed cheongsam is rigorous, cold and square, with a Puritan style.
Politically, the unfortunate events at home and abroad have disheartened the people. Young people's ideals will not be supported one day. Fashion is beginning to tighten. The sleeves of the trumpet have shrunk. 1930, the sleeves reach the elbows, and the collar is raised again. A few years ago, the advantage of the gold ingot collar was that the cheeks were obliquely cut to a suitable angle, and the face was not oval, but also oval. This time, the high collar is cylindrical and clings to the lower jaw. Girls whose muscles are not relaxed also have double chins.
At that time, the double-breasted military coat, which was popular in Europe and America, hit it off with the sad mood of Chinese people. However, the China woman who abides by the golden mean wears a velvet robe and mops the floor under her brave coat. The robe is crossed on her thighs, revealing trousers made of the same material, and silver lace shines on the legs. The owner of the clothes also answered strangely, apparently singing high-profile songs fiercely. Essentially a materialist. The most important change in recent years is the abolition of sleeves. This seems to be an extremely difficult and dangerous job. It took twenty years to cut it carefully. At the same time, the collar is short and the robe body is short, which also avoids decorative inlay. Instead, use a disc-shaped button. Soon, even the buttons were abandoned and embedded buttons were used. In short, this account is completely subtraction-all decorations, whether useful or not, are removed. Only a tight vest was left, revealing the neck, arms and calves. What matters now is people, and the role of cheongsam is nothing more than faithfully drawing the outline of the human body. Before the revolution, clothing was the opposite. People are secondary and only pay attention to poetic lines, so women's physique is formulated and they don't take off their clothes. I don't know the difference between her and her.
Our fashion is not a planned and organized industry. Unlike in Paris, several large fashion companies, such as sSchiaparelli's of Lelong, monopolized everything and affected the whole white world. Our tailor has no problem with it. The public's fantasies often coincide with each other, resulting in an incredible torrent. The tailor just has to follow suit. Because of this, China's fashion can become the representative of public opinion.
It is difficult to prove who is the founder of fashion, because China people never respect copyright, and the author doesn't mind very much, since plagiarism is the most grand praise. Recently, the popular half-sleeve, also called "seven-split sleeve", was initiated in Hong Kong by Shanghainese, and passed down from Shanghai by Hong Kong people, so they shirked their responsibilities and dared not take responsibility. The Return of a Pair of Sleeves heralds the revival of formalism. The latest development is to go to the traditional side. Although the details cannot be restored, the outline can be quoted as much as possible to meet the needs of modern environment. The front of the cheongsam is apron-shaped, which is a good example. It has the flavor of "cooking instead of me in the third grade" and is intriguing.
The modern history of men's wear is relatively dull. It is only a short period of time, from four years to 89 years, men's clothes are also gaudy, and men's and women's clothes can be used universally. However, people born at the right time think that this is one of the strange situations of chaos in the world. At present, China people are cautious and plain in suits and ties, and abide by the rules of western gentlemen. Even Chinese dresses are made of gray, brown and dark blue for many years, and the texture and pattern are extremely monotonous. Men's lives are much more free than women's, but I don't want to be a man just because this one is not free. Clothes seem to be a trivial matter.
Liu Bei once said, "Brothers are like brothers, and wives are like clothes." However, it is not easy for a woman to achieve the goal of "husband is like clothes". There is a western writer (is it Bernard Shaw? ) I once complained that most women choose husbands far less carefully than hats. Think about it carefully. A heartless woman who talks about her "last year's brocade robe" is also infatuated.
Until the18th century, men in China and abroad still had the right to wear red and green. The limitation of men's clothing color is the characteristic of modern civilization. Unhealthy psychological effects or not, at least unnecessary depression. There are many kinds of necessary repression in the group life of civilized society, and it seems that some should be indulged as compensation. There is a saying that if men are interested in clothes, maybe they will behave themselves and not try their best to win the attention and praise of society. In order to build his own reputation, he did not hesitate to ruin the country and the people. It is a joke to say that as long as men wear colorful clothes, the world will be peaceful. An official wearing an embroidered Chinese corset under a red python will still confuse Chao Gang. The male and female citizens in the rationalized utopia of the prophet Wells are all wearing the most colorful film clothes and cloaks, which is also worth learning from.
Because of habit, men don't dress properly, but they really don't look pleasing to the eye. One example is that they put on extra clothes in the middle. It's better to add a cotton robe or fur robe to make them look bloated. Once I saw a young man on the tram, either a student or a shopkeeper, who made a robe that was too tight with beige and green checkered rabbit hair, wearing women's red and green striped socks on his feet and holding a fancy painted ivory pipe in his mouth. There are no cigarettes in the pipe. He sucked for a while, took it off, took it apart, put it back, and sent it to his mouth to suck. It was quite colorful. It seems ridiculous at first glance, but why not, if he likes it? ..... In the crisp autumn evening, the stalls in the vegetable market are closed, and the fishy smell on the ground, as well as the skin and residue of the bluish-white reed millet. A child rushed over on a bicycle, showing off his skills, let out a cry, relaxed the handrail, staggered and passed lightly.
At this moment, people all over the street are full of unreasonable admiration. Why not let go of the cutest moment in your life?
Question 1: John, the jeweler's repairman, took risks when stringing pearls for customers and detained one without permission. Later, under the kind reminder of cus