Grapevine pruning time and season Grapevine pruning is generally done twice, once in winter and once in summer. The specific pruning time depends on the local climate conditions. Generally, winter is in December and summer is in June. Around the month. Tips for grapevine pruning: Erase double buds, triple buds, deformed buds and all buds 40 cm above the ground. Keep the strong ones but not the weak ones. When pruning the fruiting mother branch with double buds, only one bud will remain. The principle of selection and retention is to keep it as close to the trunk as possible to prevent the resulting part from moving outward. If there are two or three buds sprouting from the same node, only choose to keep one. The principle is to keep the strong ones but not the weak ones, keep the flowers but not the empty ones, and choose the one with the right location.
Determine the branches: leave one branch every 15--20 cm on average, (or leave 2 branches every 20--25 cm), remove weak branches and leave strong branches, and leave branches evenly. On average, there are 9-12 new shoots per meter of main vine (either annual part or perennial part with dragon claws). (There are 12 varieties with small branches and small leaves, and 9 varieties with large branches and large leaves have very different germination times)
The branches are required to be fixed at about 5 cm. It is highly technical and requires precise operation.
New shoot topping: One week before the grapevine flowers, new shoot topping is performed on the varieties. Prevent flowers and fruits from falling.
Secondary shoot treatment: When the labor force is sufficient, the lower accessory shoots can not be directly removed, but the last topping method is adopted, which is beneficial to the development of winter buds
The last topping: leave one leaf on the secondary shoot for topping. At the same time, wipe off the secondary tips and winter buds in the leaf axils under the topping mouth. Remove excess inflorescences, leaving two strong branches, one mediocre branch, and no weak branches. In addition to thinning the fruiting branches and flowers, it is also necessary to lose the over-producing flowers. In order to ensure high yields year after year, 8-10 kilograms (strings) of fruit per square meter of shelf surface should be retained according to the weight of a single ear. Ensure that the shelf surface is ventilated and light-transmissive, and that there are no useless branches.
At the same time, cultivate the forward-growing extension head, cut off 3/5 of the front inflorescence, leaving only 6-8 spikes. The fruits are scattered, not crowded, well colored, large in size and of good quality.