The creeping cultivation of flat peach must have a set of strict standardized techniques, complete management system and scientific agronomic assistance. Otherwise, many problems will continue to appear four to five years after the park is completed. After five years of age, this tree has entered a mature stage. The biggest problem is that it is buried in the soil for the winter, and the branches are broken, which causes damage to the branches and leaves a big wound, creating favorable conditions for the infection of various fungal and bacterial diseases, causing rot and gummosis. This phenomenon is one of many examples, from the sharp drop in output, low quality and low economic benefits to the death of plants, which have no economic benefits and forcibly plan trees and destroy gardens. The other is: after the trunk is broken, it is greatly stimulated, and long branches grow at the base, which leads to disorderly competition of branches and shading Gaiyang, which seriously affects the ventilation and light transmission of other branches. As a result, the parts move outward and jump up, which seriously damages the trunk, and the lower part tends to be empty, the branches are weak, the flowers are fruitless, the yield is extremely low, and the significance of garden construction is lost.
Garden construction 1. Garden selection: Peach tree species have the characteristics of drought tolerance and waterlogging tolerance, and have higher requirements for roots to breathe oxygen. Gardens should be built on sandy land with low groundwater level, convenient irrigation and drainage, good soil permeability and moderate pH value.
2. Garden planning: Taoyuan should be rationally planned according to the terrain and residential area. Reasonable arrangement of roads and main branch canals is an important task. Determine communities according to topography, land conditions and ground differences. In the same community, the height of the front, back, left and right should be as flat as possible, which is beneficial to irrigation and drainage.
Variety selection 1. Variety selection: There are many varieties of peaches, including more than 800 varieties in China and many imported varieties. It is estimated that there will be 1000 peach varieties. All localities should choose varieties suitable for local cultivation according to the actual situation. According to the situation of manpower and material resources, it is ideal to choose early, middle and late maturity varieties to build gardens.
2. Variety configuration: To build a peach garden, it is necessary to highlight the characteristics of varieties and there are not many advantages. Early-maturing varieties should be dominant and arranged in the mature period to avoid excessive concentration of mature period, so as not to cause shortage of manpower and material resources and value fluctuation. The best configuration is that there are more early-maturing varieties, accounting for 30% to 40% of the whole garden, middle-maturing varieties accounting for 20-30%, and late-maturing varieties accounting for the third place. The specific operation can also be decided by the local market.
3. Pollination tree configuration: peach trees have poor self-pollination ability, so it is necessary to configure good pollination varieties to ensure good fruit setting, which is one of them. Secondly, peach trees bloom earlier, and low temperature and late frost at flowering stage also affect normal pollination. Therefore, no less than 3 to 4 varieties are planted in the park, and the varieties that meet at flowering time are selected. After the main varieties are determined, the pollinated varieties are arranged at a reasonable interval, which can be 2: 1 or 3: 1, and the highest can be 4: 1.
Colonization 1. Colonial period
Generally speaking, mid-April is the best season for planting peach trees.
Immediately after planting, it enters the germination stage. However, the preparatory work in the early stage of planting should be done well in the autumn and winter of the previous year to avoid a lot of work in spring and fail to meet the requirements of planting.
2. Pre-planting work: digging planting holes: this is the biggest project of garden construction: square planting method of creeping peach trees with row spacing of 4mX4m. Firstly, the planting points are measured by measuring lines, and fixed points are fixed around the plot according to the row spacing, and the positions of rows are specified. Then, pull the two ends of the measuring line forward and fix them between the planting rows. Determine the first planting point from one end of the ground, fix a point every 4 meters, and dig holes according to the points after all the fixed points are completed. When digging a pit, draw a circle with this point as the center, and put the topsoil and subsoil on both sides of the pit. The size of the pit depends on the soil quality. Generally, Fiona Fang is 60cmX60cm, and the difference in soil quality can be appropriately increased.
Apply base fertilizer to fill the pit: after the pit is dug, apply organic fertilizer, and apply 30-40 kg of soil miscellaneous fertilizer to each pit. When the topsoil is backfilled in the pit, when the soil reaches the half pit, the soil and fertilizer are mixed evenly, and then the soil is taken again for backfilling. You can also use crop straws and weeds, put half a pit of straw in each pit, put topsoil after practical use, and add soil while stepping until the pit is full. After it is completely filled, ditch from south to north for irrigation, let the pit sink and wait for cultivation. It is best to sow in spring, and do the work well before the winter of the year before last.
3. Selection of planting seedlings: When planting peach seedlings, we should choose stout seedlings with good root system, many hairy roots and no invasive rhizomes, and prune those with excessive trauma. Plant height is 60-80cm, and basal diameter 1.2cm is the standard seedling. It is too weak and too small to be used as a fixed seedling, and it grows badly or lacks seedlings after planting. To this end, we must choose good seedlings and strong seedlings before planting.
Planting seedlings: Before planting seedlings, put the selected peach seedlings into the pit head according to the planting plan, bury the roots with wet soil, make the upper part of the pit into the shape of steamed bread, put the seedlings in, and cooperate with two people, one for supporting the seedlings and the other for filling the soil. The seedling supporter will adjust the orientation of grafted buds to the north and look straight at the front, back, left and right rows. When the roots of the seedlings are firmly buried in the soil, the seedling helper grasps the seedlings with both hands, gently lifts them up and down, left and right, and tightens the soil around the seedlings while shaking their feet. Let the roots adhere to the soil evenly and support the soil again until the hole is flat. Be careful not to bury the grafting bud, and lift the seedlings up to a suitable position. This is the key link of peach tree planting survival and young tree period. Neck rot is easy to occur at the entrance of marriage burial in winter, which will rot the outer cortex of the neck of the surviving young trees and slowly die in the spring growth period.
4. Post-planting field management (1) irrigation: irrigate the peach garden immediately after planting, and the water must be thoroughly watered for the first time. After collecting soil moisture on the ground, check the ground and straighten the inclined seedlings. After sinking, the deep seedlings should be raised to a reasonable position, and the exposed seedlings should be cultivated with soil. When the peach buds begin to sprout, water them twice in time, and the water will stop immediately.
(2) Mulching with plastic film to preserve moisture and promote seedlings: Before mulching with plastic film, we should plow in the tree tray, carefully rake the soil around the peach seedlings, pick up the sundries, and lay two layers of plastic film with the length of 1.2- 1.5m on both sides of the seedlings along the ditch. The surrounding film edges are compacted with soil. In particular, the joint of the two layers of film in the trunk should be pressed together to prevent damage to the plastic film, improve the effect of heat preservation and moisture retention, and promote the rapid growth of peach seedlings.
(3) Fixing the stem: Fixing the stem in time before the peach seedlings germinate can reduce the water loss of branches and promote the germination and growth of seedlings. Stem fixing and cutting should be based on seedlings, and the buds left under cutting must be full and strong, which is the main principle of stem fixing and bud left. The height of the stem from the base to the first bud should not exceed 50cm, which is the second principle to be mastered, and the standard of the stem is to choose cutting between these two principles.
Pruning is the key point of creeping peach cultivation technology, which is related to the success or failure of cultivation, the embodiment of benefits before, during and after delivery, the rationalization of branch orientation adjustment and the balance of light transmittance, and is the axis work of creeping cultivation. The reasonable distribution pattern of branches on the trunk is finally revealed by pruning, and pruning is one of them. Secondly, it is related to the high yield, stability and fruit quality of creeping cultivation, which is the technical focus of the success or failure of Taoyuan construction.
Aft that shaped peach seedling are dried in the sun, 5-6 buds are selected in the shape belt, strong buds with reasonable distribution are left, and the rest are all smoothed. Only the remaining buds will grow in the future, and the remaining buds will be strictly controlled and destroyed as soon as they are seen.
Selecting and retaining backbone branches: the remaining bud branches reach 70-80cm semi-lignification, selecting and retaining permanent backbone branches, selecting 3-4 seedlings per plant, selecting and retaining central extension branches above the south back of the trunk, and preferentially selecting and retaining strong branches. Select the second trunk branch from top to bottom. The first trunk branch, where the two trunk branches are planted, is best left in the upper part of the trunk back. Or the horizontal direction on the east and west sides. You can't keep the main branch because of the south-down branch. The distance from each branch to the central trunk is about 20cm-30cm in turn. Ideally, the first branch is weaker than the second branch, and the second branch is weaker than the trunk.
Branching: In the middle of August of the year of planting, the branches grow to lignification, and the selected backbone branches on both sides are slowly pulled in two different directions along the east and west sides of the trunk to reduce the strength, fix the ground and make the tip high and the heel low. The central trunk inclines to the south, lowering and fixing. The height of the three branches on the ground is basically the same, and the opening angle is also roughly the same. After the three branches are fixed, the remaining branches can be placed in the middle and picked up.
Strictly control the amount of long branches and reduced branches, and cultivate fruiting branches.
Peach trees are characterized by light-loving, large growth, strong branching and large reduction of mother branches. Young trees can grow1.5-2.0m a year. Branching can occur twice or three times in a growth period. Every time a branch is made, the mother branch above the branch point becomes obviously thinner, indicating that the amount of branch reduction is very large. Because of the above characteristics, it is decided that peach trees should be pruned many times in a growing season in order to achieve the expected purpose.
Strict control of long branches: creeping control of some apical advantages to create favorable growth opportunities for the base and upper back should be strictly controlled. As long as you see the upright shoots on your back, you must wipe them off or cut them off as soon as possible, and you must not be soft-hearted, otherwise the backbone branches will be greatly weakened, the branches will flourish in vain, blocking the sun, and the remaining backbone branches will be difficult to see the sun, leading to malnutrition, insufficient branch growth and thinning flower buds, which will make it very difficult to blossom and bear fruit in the coming year. The lower part has poor ventilation and light transmission, and the branches are thin and thin. In the growing season of next spring, the branches will gradually shrink and die, and the upper branches with good light will continue to extend, the upper parts will be squeezed up and the lower parts will be empty. In this way, the parts will move up and jump out, resulting in flattening and extremely low yield. When the soil is covered in winter, the internal structure of the twig tissue is not full, fragile and easy to break, and the substances proliferated in a growing season disappear in vain. This is only one aspect. On the other hand, the broken branches leave a big wound, which becomes the breakthrough of the source of the disease. Fungi and bacterial diseases have the opportunity to infect, resulting in a large number of gummosis and rot diseases.
Strictly control the reduction of mother branches: each branch of peach trees has obvious thinning characteristics, and the reduction of branches at all levels should be strictly controlled, especially the sequential branches on the main branches. Be sure to choose middle branches and weak branches as branch culture. And the growth potential should be controlled moderately. If strong branches are left, measures such as taking branches and twisting branches should be taken to alleviate their growth potential. Ensure that the relationship between the main branch and the auxiliary branch is in its proper place and performs its duties, and there shall be no bullying of the main branch. This is the principle of plastic trimming.
Cultivating various branches: main branches, lateral branches and fruiting branches is a group that forms a creeping fan shape and fruit distribution. Branches at all levels on backbone branches are gradually cultivated one by one. The lateral branches at the base are selected according to 50cm-60cm, 40cm-50cm in the middle and 30cm-40cm in the upper part. Re-branching on side branches still needs to be controlled and reduced; Reasonable arrangement of large and medium-sized fruit branches.
During the pruning of young trees, it is mainly plastic and local pruning, but in the fruiting period, it is just the opposite, and pruning is work again.
Key point. Besides pruning in spring, attention should also be paid to pruning in growing season. 1. Pruning in spring: Prune spring peaches immediately after they are unearthed. Before pruning, the main branches should be properly conditioned, the propped ones should be propped up, and the pulled ones should be pulled to a reasonable position. After the whole tree is adjusted, the branches at all levels should be pruned in turn. Cut off the broken branches and stumps first. Then cut off the big branches, middle branches and small branches to bear fruit. According to the strength and location space of the branches, comprehensive reference should be made. Cut lightly when it is light, and cut again when it is heavy. Elongated branches should be cut off by one-third or one-half of the length of branches in the previous year, and the first and second buds cut off must be full buds. Branches with strong fruiting branches should be lightly cut and more fruiting branches should be left. One third or one quarter of the branch length should be cut off, and weak buds should be left under the incision. Weak branches should be pruned again, cutting off half or more lengths and leaving a bud under the incision. No matter light cutting or heavy cutting, the buds left by the elongated branches should extend to the empty space. All kinds of medium and long branches and fruiting branches should be cut off, and leaves must be left after cutting.
2. Summer pruning: 1. Wipe the bud and remove the bud: Wipe the bud is an unnecessary bud on the old tree. Young trees mainly erase the buds on the trunk below the plastic belt; As a result, the tree is a competitive branch bud, and it is also an empty branch bud that erases the inner room. De-sprouting refers to wiping off the sprouted buds on the rootstock. Mainly exists in the magic tree period and the tree of head renewal.
2. Picking: Picking is to remove the growing point of new shoots and a few leaves at the top, so as to temporarily stop the elongation and growth of branches, preserve nutrients, promote the lignification of branches and flower bud differentiation, and form fruiting branches. The dripping period is from June to July, and the objects are overgrown fruit branches and long fruit branches.
3. Twisting skill: Twisting the upright branches by 180 degrees to change their growth direction, so as to control the growth and promote flower bud differentiation. Twisted branches are mostly used to transform vigorous branches, upright branches in holes, long branches and competitive branches into fruiting branches. When the branches grow to 25 ~ 30 cm and reach semi-lignification, the kneading time is appropriate. The twist tip is located at the base of the branch 5 ~ 10 cm.
4. Cutting new shoots: Cutting new shoots in the growing season can improve the ventilation and light transmission conditions in the crown, promote the formation of new shoots, alleviate the growth potential of branches and promote the differentiation of flower buds. The cutting time is better from late May to early June, that is, when the new shoots grow to 15 ~ 20 cm, leave 10 cm for short cutting. If the shoots are cut off prematurely, the shoots that have sprouted are still very prosperous, and the purpose of cutting off is not achieved; If the new shoots are cut short and stand late, the degree of lignification of the new shoots is poor and it is not easy to bloom. When cutting short, we should adhere to the principle of "thinning, thinning and slanting". 5. Pulling branches: Pulling branches can relax the tree potential, prevent the fruiting parts from moving out and prevent baldness at the lower part of branches. For 1 ~ 3-year-old trees, it is advisable to pull branches from June to July to maintain the growth potential in the early stage of branches; For trees over 3 years old, it should be carried out from April to May to alleviate the branching trend. The angle of branch pulling should reach 60 ~ 70 degrees, which is beneficial to the upper and lower parts of branches.
Taoyuan management The daily management of creeping taoyuan is more meticulous than any other orchard management, and there is a great difference between extensive management and fine management. The high-yield period of extensively managed peaches is only eight to ten years, while that of finely managed peaches is fifteen to twenty years higher.
1. intertillage weeding: intertillage should be done in time after irrigation or heavy rain to prevent soil hardening and poor ventilation and weeds. The depth of intertillage is generally 5cm- 10cm. Pay attention to protect the trunk when weeding, so as not to cause man-made injury. Spraying 10% glyphosate 500 times solution is very effective in killing weeds in idle rows. Spraying twice a year in the growing season, the best effect is from mid-June to mid-July. Be careful not to spray the medicine on the surface of peach leaves.
2. Fertilization: Fertilization in Taoyuan should be carried out comprehensively according to the fertility, age, growth potential and yield of the land. The land is fertile, and the organic fertilizer is mainly applied to young trees for 3-4 years. Mature trees have high fruit yield and weak tree potential. In addition to applying more organic fertilizer, nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should also be applied. Generally, it is required to apply organic fertilizer at the ratio of 1: 1.5 every year. For example, 75 kilograms of organic fertilizer is applied to each tree with 50 kilograms of fruit. Fertilization can be carried out in the middle and late September every year. The method is: dig a circular ditch around the peach tree. The small annular groove on the crown is closer to the tree and expands outward a little every year to minimize the damage to the roots. The most suitable ditch is dug into the middle of the crown projection, with a depth of 25-30cm and a width of 30cm. When applying fertilizer, first apply phosphate fertilizer at the bottom of the ditch, then apply organic fertilizer, mix it with soil, and then fill the ditch; Phosphate fertilizer is applied according to the size of trees. 2-3 kg for each big tree, reduce the number of small trees, and irrigate immediately after fertilization. You can also use the four-way furrow fertilization method. Nitrogen fertilizer and micro-fertilizer can be topdressing in the growing season, including spreading, spraying and topdressing outside the roots.
3. Deep turning over the tree tray: This work is an important agronomic measure for peach garden management, which is conducive to maintaining the maturity of the land, improving the micro-ring structure of the land, maintaining the permeability of the land, making light, heat, water and oxygen sufficient, creating an environment conducive to the growth of peach trees and reducing physiological diseases. This work is carried out twice a year; In early spring, Taoyuan was pruned for the first time, combined with cleaning the garden. Conditioning the tree ditch is completed at one time. Don't dig too deep this time, and try not to hurt the roots. In the second autumn in late September, combined with topdressing basic fertilizer in autumn, the soil was turned over immediately after fertilization and irrigation, which was deeper than that in spring and damaged some small roots, which was beneficial to stimulate new roots.
4. Burying trees for wintering: Burying trees for wintering is a very big and urgent task in field work, which can only be carried out within 65,438+00 days before and after winter, neither too early nor too late is ideal.
When burying the soil, five to six people must cooperate, slowly press the branches on the ground along the inclined direction of the peach branches and fix them, spread weeds or crop straws on the tips of the branches, and borrow soil to stabilize the branches. After the whole branch is put on the ground and pressed, cover the tree with grass and take soil to press the grass again. When the whole tree was buried for inspection, it was found that a hole was not sealed. Fill the hole with grass and never let cold air into the tree room. We should be careful in this work. Don't put down the suitcase violently or forcefully. Put down the trunk slowly, avoid the trunk breaking and bury it naturally as far as possible.
5. Unearthing the tree: from late March to early April of the following year, the peach trees buried in the ground can be released after thawing. The temperature changes greatly in spring, which can be completed in two stages. The first stage is to remove the soil pressed on the grass surface, let the trunk slowly rise, and after confirming that the weather has not changed much, remove the grass covered on the dead branches, lift the dead branches as soon as possible and wait for pruning. Working hours are more tense and careful. When picking grass, be careful not to damage the fruiting branches and pull out the flower buds. The excavation work must be completed in early April.