Qin Jun's clothing can be roughly divided into two categories: officers and soldiers;
1. Officers' clothing
Officers are divided into three grades: high, medium and low. The general was founded in Zhao Haoqi, Qin Dynasty, with the number of Qin State No.20, and the ninth rank was five generals, who could be generals. Later, he was promoted to the seventh rank as a girder left, and then to the third rank as a marquis, and the marquis in Shanhaiguan was the nineteenth marquis. The 20 titles are Liehou, that is, the highest titles. The general's figurine, wearing a double dragon shovel, colorful armor, pants, square feet, pointed shoes, wearing a purple crown, tied the orange crown under his chin, tied a figure-of-eight knot, and wielded a sword under threat.
There are two kinds of costumes for middle-ranking officers: one is wearing a long breastplate with colorful lace, foot pads, square-toed shoes, a double crown on the head and a sword on the waist; The second one is wearing a collared right lapel pleated suit, dressed in neat armor, inlaid with colorful lace, leggings, open-toed shoes with square head and double crown. The figurines of the lower-level military attache are covered with long rafts, armor, long crowns, legs tied or leggings, shallow shoes, a sword in one hand and a long weapon in the other. In addition, there are a few lower-ranking military attache who don't wear armor, which is light.
2 sets of soldiers' clothes
Light infantry figurine, wearing a long raft, wearing a leather belt around his waist, shorts, leggings (that is, leggings), full of shallow shoes, a bun on the right side of his head, holding weapons such as crossbows, bows and spears. There are three kinds of clothing for heavy infantry figurines: one is wearing a long raft, armor, shorts, leggings, light shoes or booties, and a bun on the right side of the head; The second kind of clothing is similar to the first one, but with a red bowl head and leggings and shallow shoes tied to the legs; The second kind of clothing is the same as the third kind, except that there is a flat bun at the back of the head and no red bowl head is worn. The military uniform on the chariot is the same as the second suit of the heavy infantry figurines. The cavalry wore Hu clothes, waist-length short armor, long trousers and high-necked flat shoes, and held bows (round hats), crossbows and reins. There are two kinds of charioteers' clothes on the chariot: one is to wear a long raft, shoulder-less armor (i.e. arm armor), leggings to protect legs, shallow shoes and a long crown. The second kind of clothing is the special production of armor. There is a square neck armor on the neck, and the arm armor of both arms extends to the wrist and is connected with the hand armor on the hand, which is extremely strict for the protection of the body. Qin Jun's clothing armor is equipped according to the actual performance of the arms in the battle, and the status of officers and men is distinguished by the form of crowns and the color of armor.
Re-discussion on the crown style of Qin figurines
A Study of Qin Culture in Dang Huanying's Qin Warrior
Since the excavation of Terracotta Warriors and Horses Pit in Qin Shihuang Mausoleum, we have found four kinds of crowns, namely, the so-called "skin", "long crown", "crown" and "crown". In his book "A Study of Terracotta Warriors and Horses in the Mausoleum of the First Qin Emperor", Mr. Yuan made a preliminary discussion and research on the shape and name of the Terracotta Warriors and Horses, but most of the conclusions were not quite sure, so it is necessary to further explore them.
As for the research on the crown style of Qin Dynasty, due to the short duration of Qin Dynasty, the documents described by Qin people themselves are extremely scarce, and some relevant materials that might have been available before have been destroyed by burning books and burying Confucianism. Although there are many names of Guanzi in the written materials after the Han Dynasty, they are messy, and the description of specific shapes and production methods is also general and difficult to understand. Some of them are even contradictory, similar in shape and easy to be confused, and often accompanied by the phenomenon of more than one name. In addition, due to the different times and geographical locations, there will be some differences in appellation and shape, and there will be deviations in understanding between people. Therefore, some fallacies and heresies will inevitably appear in the document itself, which makes people today very embarrassed. As far as these crown patterns unearthed from the pit of Qin terracotta warriors are concerned, it is difficult to find a very corresponding BF material for most of them. This paper, without taking the liberty, tries to compare and discuss these crowns, traces their development and evolution by combining similar objects and related documents of the previous and later generations of archaeological discoveries, and talks about personal views and opinions on their own understanding, trying to give a more reasonable explanation or supplementary explanation. Of course, due to my lack of knowledge, information and understanding, some mistakes will inevitably occur. I also urge all experts to give me advice and suggestions, so as to establish a correct foundation for the future research of crown style and even the whole clothing.
First, "Pige"
"Pige" is the crown of cavalry figurines unearthed from the No.2 Terracotta Warriors Pit. They are all tied in a flat bun with six strands of wide braids at the back of the head and buckled with "leather". This crown is like a bowl, with a round top, a short front edge (forehead) and a deep back edge (back). There is a long ear in front of each ear, and the lower end of each ear is connected with a narrow strap. The ends of the two straps are butted and buckled under the chin with a snap button. On the whole, the top of the head is small and shallow, which can only cover the hair on the top of the head, and the bun on both sides and the hair on the back of the head are exposed outside the head. The crown is ochre, and the scattered patterns in groups of three are drawn with cinnabar, which are neatly spread across the crown. There is a big white peach blossom in the middle of the back of the crown. There is no crease on the crown, and the texture is hard and straight, like leather.
Mr. Yuan thinks that three scarlet spots are used to symbolize sika deer spots, but according to the records in the Book of the Later Han Dynasty, the shape of the skin is basically "made like a bowl", so he thinks that the crown is made of deer skin. I feel something is wrong. The sculptures of the terracotta warriors have a high degree of realism, and even the stitches of the soles should be meticulously displayed. The plum blossom spots on deerskin should be truly reflected, which should be five petals (five sub-groups) and should be white instead of vermilion.
Based on the interpretation of Ci Hai and Ci Yuan, we can draw the following conclusions: deer, in the name of animals, was born in the forest, with slender limbs and gentle temperament. The male has branches and horns, which are replaced every year and supplemented every year. If he is old, he won't. When strong, the hair is brown with white stars and looks like plum blossom, commonly known as sika deer. Females have no horns, light coat color and many kinds.
Figure 1. 1. Wei Yang worn by the characters in the chapter "Huan" in Ma's Ten Pictures of Zhou Song in the Southern Song Dynasty.
2.3. Wei and Pi in the Book of Rites of the Song Dynasty.
4. Pi Ge in Nie Chongyi's Three Rites.
5. Pigou in Three Stories. 6. Pippi unearthed from Zhu Tan's tomb in Ming Dynasty.
7. Yuan Taizu has a forehead as warm as mink. (Excerpted from Zhou Xibao's History of Ancient Costume in China)
As for the shape of chemicals, if people put their hands together. With the development of slave society in China to the Zhou Dynasty, all kinds of etiquette systems became more and more mature, but "courtesy is no less than Shu Ren". In the dress class of the ruling class, there is a kind of dress, which is divided into Jue, Pi and Wei. Knight's position is second only to crown, and its shape is obviously different from the latter two because of its extension. According to Zhou Li Chun Guan, when the ancient emperors were worshiped or enjoyed by the governors in the temple, they all wore fur robes, usually facing the court. Son of heaven, patrol beast, shooter, etc. And a leather coat. In addition to the emperor, it is also the clothing of the princes in the dynasty, and it can also be used as the clothing of the princes, as well as hunting. The skin is shaped like a combination of two hands, and it is made of white deerskin, because the skin has light hair and white is light yellow. Its manufacturing method is to slice deerskin, with the narrow end on the top and the wide end on the bottom, and sew it. The son of heaven decorated his seams with twelve colored jade, and princes and princes decorated them with jade according to their orders. From this point of view, Piggy's system must be sharp at the top and wide at the bottom, so it is not difficult to understand the splendid scene of Piggy described in Poem Feng Wei that "there are bandits and gentlemen, and they must be as bright as stars". And Wei Yang served in military affairs, "Wei Yang served in military affairs. (Zhou Li Tianguan). It was said in the Jin Dynasty that Weiyang was made of leather and pointed. The only difference is Wei (cooked leather) is red. Unfortunately, there were no physical objects left before the Han Dynasty. At present, only the scrolls drawn by later generations contain image data (see figure 1: 1-5). The leather bag unearthed from Zhu Tan's tomb in Ming Dynasty seems to be the same as that in ancient times. According to "Cultural Relics", the original cloud (No.5, 1972) "is 2 1cm high and 3 1cm wide, made of rattan, with traces of black weaving on the surface and nine seams on the front and back. According to the combination of towels worn on the heads of figurines unearthed in Wei and Jin Dynasties, also known as towel clips, towels and scoops, Records of Five Elements in the Book of Jin records: "Wei Wudi first proposed cutting silk from ancient leather into white towels to replace old clothes." Later, he even dressed by color. "Notes on the Three Kingdoms" said: "Taizu is a man without power, and he can wear a hat to welcome guests at any time." Its shape is "like an ancient leather bag with four corners missing and a sharp point" (see Figure 2).
Fig. 2 The front and side of pottery figurines in Wei and Jin Dynasties.
It can be seen that the Gupige proposed by him is the same as the above-mentioned system, but the Pige written by Qin Terracotta Warriors and Horses is quite different from them, while Han Zhi has a different record: "Pige is seven inches long and four inches high, and it is made like a cup", which may be greatly damaged, reduced and reformed from the dress etiquette of Qin Dynasty since the Zhou Dynasty. Similar to this kind of crown system of Qin Terracotta Warriors and Horses, the physical objects and image materials are: (1) the crown system of Hou Ma's sword-backed warrior pottery (see Figure 4,1); (2) The crowns of painted pottery warrior figures and cavalry figures in Yangjiawan Han Tomb (see Figure 4.2); (3) The gold and silver car in the Han Dynasty decorated with a tiger-shooting warrior crown (see Figure 4.4); (4) Warrior figurines, servant figurines and guard figurines in Shizishan and Beidongshan in Xuzhou (see Figures 4, 5 and 3); (5) Han lacquer cage yarn crown (see Figure 4.6). From these images, it is not difficult to see that the crown patterns are in the same strain.
According to the images that can be seen now, several cases are basically confirmed as dental crowns (see Figure 8).
Compared with the literature, the records of Yu Fu in the Book of the Later Han Dynasty are as follows: "Military officers call it a big crown, tassels are not worn, moss is the crown, and both tails are the crown clouds". So this kind of crown may be called Wu Mi Crown or Wu Guan. According to the excavation of the pit of Qin figurines, only cavalry figurines wear this crown, and they all wear short skirts and boots, which is different from the Central Plains costumes worn by other infantry and chariots. This kind of hijab may have inherited some shapes of Hu clothes worn by Zhao Wuling, such as "wearing an ear cap". Notes on China's Ear Hats in Ancient and Modern Times: "This Hu suit was made by Wei and sewn with wool. King Wuling of Zhao even started with the color of silk soap, and made it a pawn hat and a military uniform. Also, Yinjun often wears a hat with flowers to hunt and have a feast, and then gives it to Chen Wu and his attendants. " The so-called "ear band", I thought it was with ear protection. Moreover, some may have adopted the special style of the Hu people's mink crown, and used mink to warm their forehead (it seems that the Yang and Han figurines have their remains) (see Figure 4.2), so this type may have started in the Warring States Period, but you are an emperor and it is rare for princes to wear it, such as the leather ge with hands folded. As for the scattered lines of red, it may be like crimson, which is used to show the majesty and awe of soldiers, but the scattered lines in groups of three must have another meaning. The forehead, the back of the head, the upper ears of the Han figurines in Yangjiawan, Xianyang, and the ears decorated with samurai crowns on the gold and silver staggered cars in the Han Dynasty also have white peach heart patterns, which are different. This kind of decoration may become a habit in the future, but it must have a purpose at first, but unfortunately it is impossible to understand it in detail now.
Figure 4 1. Short for the statue of Fan Tao, a swordsman on horseback. 2. The crown style of the buried figurines in Yangjiawan Han Tomb.
3. The crown style of the pottery figurines in the Han tomb in Beidongshan, Xuzhou. 4. The samurai's crown in Han CuO's gold and silver car ornaments.
5. The crown style of the pottery figurines of the Han Tomb in Shizishan, Xuzhou. 6. Lacquer cage gauze crown unearthed from Mozizi Han Tomb in Wuwei, Gansu. 7. Warriors in silk paintings of Han tombs in Jinqueshan, Linyi, Shandong.
Since the Han dynasty, there has been another style of military attache called lacquer cage gauze crown or cage crown, which often appears on stone relief and brick relief in the Han dynasty. The Han Tomb at Mozizi Mountain in Wuwei has been unearthed (see Figure 4-6). Although there is an umbrella under it, it still looks like a dustpan. In the Warring States Policy, the baby said that "the big crown is shaped like a dustpan", which means the big crown, that is, the military attache. A dustpan, a dustpan, is said to have a crown shape like a dustpan. The "leather clothing" system of Qin terracotta warriors seems to be the same. From the image alone, it is more accurate to say that it is a dustpan shape rather than a cup shape.
Figure 8 Crown.
1. Knight on the Mirror in the Warring States Period (unearthed from Jincun Tomb in Luoyang). 2. The gatekeeper of Ning Wanshou sarcophagus in the Northern Dynasties.
3. The knight on the hollow brick in Luoyang in Han Dynasty. 4. The hollow bricks in Luoyang in Han Dynasty were carved into pavilions.
Judging from the heavy robes worn by the entire Qin Terracotta Warriors, it is in winter, which is basically consistent with the season of the Terracotta Warriors in Yangjiawan Han Tomb. However, the front and back edges of the latter's head seem to have portraits of Zhao Wuling's mink warm forehead, and his ears tightly protect the soldiers' ears, while Qin Terracotta Warriors and Horses wear thin arms and their ears are only in front of their ears. I thought it seemed to have something to do with the climate change at that time. According to the research of Zhu Kezhen, a famous meteorologist in China, the climate in China in the past five thousand years can be divided into four periods according to the changing trend: archaeological period, phenological period, square period and instrumental observation period. Phenology can be divided into six periods. The Qin Dynasty belongs to the second phase of phenology, which is the second warm period in the climate history of China. It started in the Spring and Autumn Period and ended in the Western Han Dynasty. The warm climate makes Qilu land "year after year". From this point of view, it is not difficult for us to understand the above situation, and it is not difficult to understand why Fan Tao, the waiting horse sword in the Warring States period, is shallow and thin, and it can also be concluded that the warrior image on the bronze car decoration was either made earlier than the Han Tomb in Yangjiawan, or its geographical location is south. Among the pottery figurines in Yangjiawan Han Tomb, some musical figurines also wear the same type of Wu Ge, which shows that Wu Ge has not been used exclusively by soldiers since the Western Han Dynasty because of its simplicity and practicality. Wu Ge of the same type is worn not only by warriors, but also by servants and guards, with a shallow front showing the midpoint. In addition, we can also see a kind of soft hat worn by warriors in the silk painting of the Han Tomb in Jinqueshan, Linyi, Shandong Province (see Figure 4.7). This soft hat is only because of the change of hairstyle, but the middle part is prominent, and there are no ears on both sides, but there are straps under the chin, or it is actually a combination of Wu and Qin.