Cultivation method of red-leaf plum (basic knowledge): the best propagation time: the cutting time of red-leaf plum is1from late October to mid-February; Bud grafting is carried out in the middle and late June; The layering operation is carried out from mid-April to mid-May in spring.
The most suitable soil for growth: Red-leaf plum has strong adaptability to soil, is not resistant to drought and is more resistant to water and humidity, but grows well in fertile, deep and well-drained clay neutral and acidic soil and is not resistant to alkali. Sandy soil is good, clayey soil can also grow, with shallow roots and strong germination.
Requirements for growth humidity: Red-leaf plum likes a slightly humid to dry climate, and the most suitable growth humidity is 75 ~ 85 {BF}, which can be maintained by spraying. The higher the temperature in sunny days, the more times it is sprayed, and the lower the temperature in rainy days, the less times it is sprayed or not sprayed.
Optimum growth temperature: the optimum growth temperature of red-leaf plum is 15 ~ 30℃, and the optimum rooting temperature of ear is 20 ~ 30℃.
Best growth light: Red-leaf plum likes sunny environment, slightly tolerant to shade, cold and strong adaptability.
Matters needing attention in red-leaf plum breeding: fertilization:
Red-leaf plum likes fertilizer. In addition to applying a proper amount of decomposed fermented fertilizer at the bottom of the pit when planting, some farmyard manure can be applied before freezing water every year, which can make the plants grow vigorously and the leaves shine. What needs to be explained here is that although red-leaf plum likes to fertilize, it only needs to be fertilized once a year in late autumn, and it needs a proper amount. Too many times of fertilization or too much fertilization will make the leaves dark and not bright, which will reduce the ornamental value.
Water supply point:
Red-leaf plum likes humid environment, so the newly planted saplings should be watered three times, and 1 ~ 2 times in April, May, June and September respectively. There is plenty of rain in July and August. If it is not too dry, there is no need to water it. When there is a lot of rain, it is also necessary to drain water in time to prevent water from rotting roots. 165438+1In early October, the frozen water should be thoroughly poured. In the second year of management, water should also be watered once in early March, April, May, June, September,165438+1early October. From the third year, it is only necessary to pour enough water, thaw water and freeze water in early spring and early winter every year. Water should be controlled in autumn, because water will lead to long branches and freeze injury in winter.
Pruning points:
In winter, after plants enter dormancy or semi-dormancy, thin, diseased, dead and dense branches should be cut off.
Potted soil replacement:
Turn over the pot: as long as it is properly maintained, it will grow rapidly. When it grows to a certain size (about two to three years), it is necessary to consider changing a bigger pot to keep it growing vigorously. One of the following culture soil and composition ratio can be selected for changing pots: vegetable garden soil: slag = 3:1; Or garden soil: medium coarse river sand: sawdust (shavings) = 4:1:2; Or one of paddy soil, pond sludge and humus soil.
Take off the pot: put the flowers to be changed on the ground, first pat the periphery of the pot with your palm, so that the root system will be separated from the wall of the pot due to vibration, turn the pot upside down on your left hand, gently clamp the plants with the index finger and middle finger of your left hand, press your wrist and fingertips against the edge of the pot, pat the bottom of the pot with your right hand, and then push the root soil down from the bottom hole with your mother finger to let the plants take off. After taking it off, gently pat the soil with your palm to let the excess soil fall off.
Preparation of flowerpot: Choose a flowerpot with a suitable size, and cover the bottom hole of the flowerpot with two tiles or thin foam boards to ensure that the soil of the flowerpot is not washed away by water, and the excess water can flow out in time. Spread a layer of ceramsite or broken red brick on the ceramic tile or foam as the filter layer, with a thickness of about 2 ~ 3 cm. Put fertilizer from the fertilizer applicator on the drainage layer, with a thickness of about 1 ~ 3cm. Spread a thin layer of substrate on the fertilizer with a thickness of about 2 cm to separate the root system from the fertilizer. Finally, put the plants in, fill in the nutrient soil, about 2 cm away from the hukou.
Breeding point:
1, cutting propagation
Cuttings are prepared to choose 3 ~ 4-year-old and vigorous trees as mother trees. After defoliation in late autumn, the annual branches without pests and diseases are cut from the mother tree, or the cut branches with thick buds, no pests and diseases and no mechanical damage can be used as cuttings with plastic pruning. Cut the selected cuttings into 40-50cm branches, bind them according to 100-200 branches, and bury them in wet sand for preservation.
The cutoff time is165438+1late October to 65438+mid-February. Cutting method Before cutting, cut off the branches that have just been cut or stored in wet sand, remove the weak branches and dehydrated and shriveled parts, and then cut the long branches from bottom to top until they grow to 10 ~ 12cm, and the cuttings are 3 ~ 5 buds. The lower end of the cuttings is cut into a smooth slope near the bud to increase the contact surface between the cambium and the soil, which is beneficial to rooting. The upper end of the cutting is 0.8 ~ 1cm away from the bud eye, and it is cut into planes. Immediately after cutting the cuttings, immerse the downhill surface in clean water 15 ~ 20 hours to make the cuttings fully absorb water. Rooting agent was prepared with rooting powder of 50× 10-6abt6 in proportion, and cuttings were dipped to promote rooting. The inclined plane of the cuttings is inserted downward into the soil, the row spacing is 5×5 cm, and the upper buds are exposed to the ground for 0.5 ~ 1cm. Water immediately after cutting to make the cuttings closely combine with the soil. When the ground is slightly dry, cover it with double-layer plastic film to conserve moisture, and build a small plastic arch shed with the height of 1 m and the width of the border to keep warm and keep out the cold.
2. Bud grafting method
The rootstock can be seedlings of peach, plum, plum, apricot, Prunus armeniaca, Prunus armeniaca, Prunus persica and Prunus mume. Comparatively speaking, peach rootstock grows vigorously with purple-green leaves, but it is afraid of waterlogging. Plum as rootstock is more resistant to waterlogging; Apricots and plums live longer, but they are also afraid of waterlogging. Apricot, peach and peach are the most commonly used rootstocks in North China.
Two-year-old seedlings are generally used as rootstocks for grafting, and it is best to cultivate them specially. Cut it short before grafting, leaving only 5-7 cm stumps on the surface. In the middle and late June, the buds should be located on the branches selected as scions in advance, and the grafted buds should be full and strong, without dry shoots and pests. Cut the sterilized bud grafting knife into xylem at an upward angle of 30 degrees 2 cm below the bud position until it reaches the position above the bud position 1 cm, then cut a knife at the position above the bud position 1 cm, gently take out the bud grafting, and then cut a T-shaped incision on the bark with a knife at a position 3 cm from the ground to make the bud grafting closely combined with the rootstock, and then tie it tightly with plastic tape. After grafting, the grafted buds did not wither in about 7 days, indicating that they have survived, and the plastic tape can be removed in about 25 days.
3, high altitude stratification method
1) The branches should choose plants with strong tree potential and no pests and diseases. The diameter of branches is generally 1 ~ 2cm, and 2 ~ 4 years old branches are the best.
2) In the spring, the layering operation will be carried out from mid-April to mid-May, and two notches will be made on the layering with a grafting knife, with an interval of about 65438±0.5cm. Then, the skin between the notches will be girdled, and a plastic bag will be put on immediately after girdling, and a plastic bag will be tied on the lower part of the lower notch. Then put the prepared sandy loam mud into a plastic bag, knead it into a ball, wrap the mud ball around the girdling position and put it into the mud ball.
3) After the plastic bag is sealed, always check whether the mud ball is dry or hard. If the soil ball is soft, it means that the topdressing effect is good and the soil water content is high. After about 45 days, the wound can heal and begin to take root. After defoliation in late autumn, cut wood strips, cut plastic bags and transplant them under the mud ball. If it is dry and hard, it means that the plastic bag is leaking. Inject water with a syringe immediately, and put a plastic bag outside the original plastic bag.
Pest control:
The main pests and diseases of red-leaf plum are red spider, thorn moth and bag moth. If it happens, it can be sprayed with 40 {BF} omethoate EC 1000 times.