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Pruning technology of peach trees: matters needing attention in pruning peach trees
Peach trees like light, so it is necessary to adjust the growth, ventilation and light transmission of trees by timely pruning and pruning. Sprinkle buds (buds and buds sprouting on the back of main branches) in spring. In summer, tall and vigorous vegetative branches and closed branches and twigs in the hall are cut off. In autumn, we will continue to remove the overgrown vegetative branches, continue to adjust the light and ventilation, and promote the formation of full flower buds. In winter, leave a proper amount of fruiting branches according to the tree potential. The combination of pruning methods such as thinning, releasing, cutting and shrinking; Young trees should maintain the leading position of each main branch (excluding competitive branches); When a tree enters the full fruit period, it is necessary to maintain the leading position of each main branch and control the infinite extension of the main branch. Today, I will introduce you to peach tree pruning techniques.

First, the main points of young tree pruning

The commonly used tree shape of peach tree is three branches, the height of seedlings is 60 ~ 70 cm, and there should be more than five full buds as plastic belts 20 ~ 30 cm below the incision. In the first year, choose three scattered main branches, and don't face south. In the second year, choose the first side branch on each main branch, and in the third year, choose the second side branch. The length of the main branch extension branch is 60 ~ 70 cm every year.

In order to increase the branching order, coring can be carried out twice during the growth period. In the growth period, methods such as branch pulling should be used to open the angle, control the vigorous growth and promote early fruiting. Four-year-old trees should cultivate some fruiting branches and fruiting branches on the main branches and side branches. In order to grow fast and bear fruit early, young trees are lightly pruned in winter. Second, the main points of tree pruning in the first fruit period

The first fruiting period is usually the third to sixth year after planting. The main task is to continue to cultivate backbone branches, while paying attention to cultivating fruiting branches.

1. When pruning the main branch, select the extension branch of the main branch and cut it short. If there is a good external secondary shoot at the extension branch of 50 ~ 60 cm, cut off the part above the secondary shoot, use the secondary shoot as the extension branch, and then cut the secondary shoot 1/2. 20 ~ 30 cm can be cut off from the missing branches to cultivate better fruiting branches, and the rest developing branches can be thinned from the base.

2. Trimming of lateral branches 1/2 is used to trim the selected lateral branches, and the competitive branches are thinned to control their growth. The branch of the upper branch cannot be higher than or longer than the main branch, and it always maintains the subordinate relationship.

3. Cultivation of fruiting branches. Large fruiting branches mostly adopt robust branches, which can be formed after 3-4 years of short cutting and thinning. Small fruit branches are made of short thick branches and divided into 2 ~ 4 fruit branches.

Large, medium and small fruit branches should have branches and extension branches, and the extension direction should be changed constantly, so that the branches will bend upward and grow, and the upper branches will be restrained from being strong and the lower branches will be weak, so as to prevent the branches from being too long and the lower parts from being exposed. 4. Pruning of fruit branches generally leaves 8 ~ 10 flower buds for long fruit branches, 6 ~ 8 flower buds for middle fruit branches, 3 ~ 4 short nodes for short fruit branches, and only sparse bouquets for fruit branches.

Third, the main points of tree pruning in full fruit period

1. Pruning of main branches The extension branches at the early stage of full fruit should be guided by strong branches, and the pruning length is about 30 cm. The opening angle of the secondary tip is used to slow down the tree potential. In the late stage of full fruit, select branches with small angle and strong growth potential to raise the angle or shrink the branches.

2. Trim the side branches, and the lower part will become weaker and thinner or shrink into large branches. For the lateral branches with growth space, use strong branches first. At this stage, it is still necessary to adjust the master-slave relationship between the main branch and the auxiliary branch. In summer pruning, attention should be paid to controlling vigorous branches, thinning branches and dense branches, and improving ventilation and light transmission conditions.

3. Prune and adjust the density of branches, which can be changed from dense to sparse and from weak to strong, and update and rotate by thinning and shrinking branches. Keep good light. The general requirement is "the sides are arbitrarily long, playing evenly without shadow, arranging the angles and directions, and distinguishing the affiliation."

4. Pruning of fruiting branches should be based on the fruiting habits of varieties. For varieties with large fruit shape but deep depression and varieties without pollen, such as Zaofengwang and other varieties, medium and short fruit branches are better. Therefore, light pruning should be the main pruning method in winter. First, the upright branches and over-dense branches on the back should be thinned, and then pruning should be carried out according to the fruit setting situation and the thinning branches after fruit setting. For long branches, it can also promote some short and medium fruit branches, which will be the main fruit branches next year. Pruning in summer, short branches are promoted by multiple coring. When the tree vigor begins to weaken, it should be retracted in time to promote the growth of strong branches and restore the tree vigor. For varieties with pollen and high fruit setting rate of medium-long fruit branches, they can be shortened according to the length and thickness of fruit branches. Generally, the long fruit branches are cut 20 ~ 30 cm, the middle fruit branches are 10 ~ 20 cm, and the flower buds with low initial nodes are kept short, otherwise they are kept long.

Through single branch regeneration and double branch regeneration, enough spare branches are left to adjust the relationship between growth and fruiting. Single-branch regeneration and double-branch regeneration should be applied to the same plant at the same time. Generally speaking, young trees should adopt single-branch regeneration, and trees with weak tree potential should adopt double-branch regeneration.

Single branch regeneration: long fruit branches should be lightly cut and lengthened. After the top bears fruit, the branches droop and the bud position at the base rises, resulting in new branches. When pruning in the second year, it will shrink to new branches. This method is suitable for buds with high nodes or without preparatory branches behind them.

Regeneration of two branches: on the biennial tender branch group, select the upper and lower branches, and leave 7-8 flower buds on the upper long fruit branch to bear fruit; Only 3 ~ 4 buds at the base of the lower branch are left short, so as to produce strong fruiting branches. When pruning in the second year, cut off the upper bearing branches, leave two thick branches at the lower part, and then prune according to the above method.

Pruning in summer, short branches are promoted by multiple coring. When the tree vigor begins to weaken, it should be retracted in time to promote the growth of strong branches and restore the tree vigor. For varieties with pollen and high fruit setting rate of medium-long fruit branches, they can be shortened according to the length and thickness of fruit branches. Generally, the long fruit branches are cut 20 ~ 30 cm, the middle fruit branches are 10 ~ 20 cm, and the flower buds with low initial nodes are kept short, otherwise they are kept long. Through single branch regeneration and double branch regeneration, enough spare branches are left to adjust the relationship between growth and fruiting. Single-branch regeneration and double-branch regeneration should be applied to the same plant at the same time. Generally speaking, young trees should adopt single-branch regeneration, and trees with weak tree potential should adopt double-branch regeneration.

Single branch regeneration: long fruit branches should be lightly cut and lengthened. After the top bears fruit, the branches droop and the bud position at the base rises to produce new branches. When pruning in the second year, it will shrink to new branches. This method is suitable for buds with high nodes or without preparatory branches behind them.

Regeneration of two branches: on the biennial tender branch group, select the upper and lower branches, and leave 7-8 flower buds on the upper long fruit branch to bear fruit; Only 3 ~ 4 buds at the base of the lower branch are left short, so as to produce strong fruiting branches. When pruning in the second year, cut off the upper fruiting branches, leave two thick branches at the lower part, and then prune according to the above method.