The first kind: white butterfly taro, also known as white butterfly taro, is a horticultural variety of taro. Arrow-shaped leaves, mostly yellow and white, with green patches and stripes on the edges, are very beautiful. Its origin and ecological habits are the same as taro. Potted soil mixed with 5 parts humus soil, 3 parts garden soil and 2 parts river sand should be selected, and a small amount of cake fertilizer powder should be added as base fertilizer. Always keep the basin soil moist during the growing period. Like taro, white butterfly taro requires higher air humidity, and the relative humidity of air suitable for its growth is about 85%. If the air is too dry during the emergence of new leaves, the leaf edge and tip of new leaves are easy to wither, so during the growth and development process, we should always pay attention to spraying the leaves and keep them moist to facilitate the vigorous growth of the leaves. At the same time, the thin compound liquid fertilizer with nitrogen fertilizer as the main ingredient and phosphorus and potassium fertilizer as the auxiliary ingredient should be applied once every 2-3 weeks, or 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate +0. 1% urea should be sprayed once every 10 day in peak season, and the spraying time should be in the morning when the dew is still wet or in the evening. When spraying, you should pay attention to spraying both sides of the blade with a fine-hole sprayer, and the concentration should not be too large, otherwise it will easily burn the blade. White butterfly taro is a typical indoor foliage flower, which is most afraid of direct light. Short-term sun exposure in summer can also cause leaf burns. The ideal place is the place where the scattered light is bright, which is beneficial to display the leaf pattern.

plant

Pots with the diameter of 10- 15 cm are commonly used for potted taro, and those with the diameter of 15- 18 cm can be used for hanging cultivation. Potted soil usually consists of humus soil, peat soil and a small amount of coarse sand or perlite. Conditional addition of some pine needle leaves is more conducive to growth and development. At the same time, taro is also suitable for soilless culture, especially sand culture and nutrient solution culture.

Fertilize soil or land

Apply dilute liquid fertilizer every 1-2 weeks during the growing period. Spraying 0.2% ferrous sulfate solution 1 time every month can keep the leaves green and lovely. If you put it indoors, you don't need to grow too fast, and the amount of fertilizer must be controlled. In order to increase the ornamental effect and make the white stripes of leaves more obvious, the application amount of nitrogen fertilizer can be reduced. ?

water

Water more in the growing season from March to September, especially in summer, so that the pots should be fully watered to keep the soil moist, which is beneficial to the rapid growth of stems and leaves. If there is water shortage or drought, the leaves will become rough and small. Don't let the pot soil get too wet in winter, otherwise low temperature and humidity will cause root rot and death or yellow leaves. Try not to use ordinary tap water. Warm water or clean rain is more conducive to growth. Spray water on the leaves 2-3 times a day in summer and dry season to keep the air humidity high and the leaves clean, which can promote the leaves to grow strong and full, and the ornamental effect is good.

Temperature, light

The vigorous growth period needs high temperature and high humidity environmental conditions. The optimum growth temperature is 22-30℃. In winter, taro has a short dormancy phenomenon, and its stems and leaves stop growing below 15℃, but it can safely overwinter above 10℃, and its leaves are frozen below 5℃. In spring, when the temperature exceeds 12℃, new buds begin to sprout.

Fruit taro likes semi-shading environment, which needs 50%-60% shading in summer and not in winter when cultivated at room temperature. But under strong light, the leaves are larger and the color is lighter; Under the condition of semi-shading, the leaves become smaller and darker. Under the condition of long-term weak light, the stem and petiole are elongated, the plant type is loose, and the new leaves become smaller, which affects the ornamental effect.

Suitable for outdoor semi-shading maintenance in summer. Indoor activities in winter, placed in a place with sufficient scattered light.

control of insect

700 times solution of 70% zineb wettable powder can spray common leaf spot and gray mold of taro. It can usually be prevented by spraying the same amount of Bordeaux mixture.

Pests include whitefly and thrips, and 40% omethoate emulsion 1500 times can be sprayed.

Plastic trimming

type

The propagation of taro usually adopts cutting, which is usually carried out from May to September. It can be cut with shoots or buds, and it is easy to take root and survive. The method is: cut 2-3 sections from the top or middle of the stem, insert them into vermiculite or plain sand, cover them with plastic film, keep proper humidity and temperature (about 20℃), and take root after 10-20 days.

This plant grows fast, and can be propagated by ramets after 2-3 years, and ramets should be carried out in April.

When the weather is hot in summer, water insertion can also be used, and it can take root and grow in about 15 days.

Florescence regulation

skill

Why do taro leaves cultivated in the north turn yellow easily?

Taro is native to the tropical rain forests of Central America and South America. It likes high temperature and high humidity environment and is not cold-resistant. Like half yin, avoid direct light; If the above environmental conditions cannot be met in the cultivation process, the leaves will easily turn yellow or even die. Specifically, the main reasons why leaves turn yellow are:

(1) Soil alkalinity: Jutaro likes slightly acidic soil, but the soil in most parts of the north is neutral or alkaline. Planting Jutaro in this soil will lead to the lack of iron available for absorption and utilization, which is one of the main reasons why Jutaro leaves turn yellow.

(2) Low temperature hazard: Jutaro likes high temperature and is not cold-resistant. If the room temperature is lower than 10℃ in winter, the leaves will turn yellow due to the harm of low temperature.

(3) Improper water and fertilizer: Too much water, especially in winter, the soil in the basin is wet, which easily leads to rotten roots and yellow leaves. At the same time, insufficient fertilization, lack of nutrients, or long-term non-replacement of pots and soil, root crowding all over the pot wall, hindering the development of new roots, will lead to yellowing of leaves.

The second species: China Cymbidium hybridum, also known as Cymbidium hybridum, is native to China, Viet Nam and Myanmar. The leaves are clustered on an oval pseudobulb, and the leaves are sword-shaped. Dark green, shiny. Flowering stems are usually higher than leaves, which can reach 80 ~ 100 cm in the wild state, with 7 ~ 17 flowers, small bracts, nectaries at the base, needle-shaped sepals, light brown, five purplish brown veins, short and wide petals, inconspicuous cleft lip and drooping apex. The flowering period is 65438+ 10 ~ March, and there are many varieties, a few of which bloom in autumn.

Several problems in cultivation methods of cymbidium sinense;

1, Plant Material Preparation and Pot Selection:

Orchids are native to sparse forest valleys and grow in slightly acidic soil rich in humus. Family orchids must be cultivated with loose and breathable plant materials with PH value of 5.5-6.5 according to this growing environment. There are many materials that can be used as planting materials, such as humus soil in forests, coarse sand in rivers, household coal cinders, sawn wood, charcoal powder, plastic foam, rotten bark, broken bricks, chaff, water moss, edible fungus waste, commercially available fairy soil and perlite. But each material has advantages and disadvantages. For example, humus soil collected from the mountains contains more humus, which is loose and breathable, retains water and fertilizer, and is slightly acidic, which is very conducive to the growth of orchids. However, it has fine particles, poor water retention, easy hardening and lack of oxygen, which leads to rotten roots. Coarse sand and cinder have good aggregate structure, strong air permeability and water retention, but poor water and fertilizer retention, and are easy to dry and lose water. That is to say, at present, there is no material that can be directly used as planting material, and only two or more materials can be mixed.

Therefore, before use, we should first understand the characteristics of each material, learn from its strengths, make up for its shortcomings, and prepare an ideal orchid planting material. After selecting materials, they should be dried or steamed, boiled and fried, and treated with drugs to kill insects and prevent pollution. And the sterilized materials should be screened separately and divided into three particle sizes: coarse, medium and fine. Finally, the mixture is mixed according to a certain proportion to become a planting material. During cultivation, coarse materials are placed at the bottom of the basin, middle materials are cultivated, and fine materials are used at the top. Orchid containers are generally required to be high, cylindrical, with basin feet and good air permeability. The size of the container should be such that the root of the orchid can completely extend into the pot.

Commonly used blue pots are pottery pots, pottery pots, glazed pots and plastic pots, which are suitable for the ground, balcony, roof and indoors. Their performances are different, and each has its own advantages and disadvantages. Family orchids are mainly ornamental, and it is best to use purple sand pots or plastic pots. The teapot specially used for orchids is mostly trumpet-shaped, porous at the bottom, hydrophobic and breathable, unique in shape, harmonious with the color of orchids, and engraved or painted with orchid patterns and poems, which is very ornamental. Plastic basin is deep, porous, light, neat, cheap, easy to move and reduce floor pressure. If a plastic basin is used, it should be heated by electric drill or wire, and holes should be added in the middle and lower part of the basin wall to improve ventilation performance. Orchid growers must choose according to orchid planting location, economic conditions and personal hobbies.

2, light and temperature and humidity control:

Orchids prefer semi-cloudy environment and avoid drying. The sunshine is weak in winter and soft in spring, which is suitable for orchid growth and can receive sufficient light. From early summer to mid-autumn, the light duration is long and the light quality is strong, which is unfavorable to the growth of orchids and needs shading. Large-scale orchid cultivation sites are located on the ground or on the roof, and special orchid sheds are built, which can be adjusted timely and appropriately according to the light requirements of different seasons, varieties and growth periods of orchids. The family orchid field is rarely on the ground or indoors, but mostly on the balcony, which brings a lot of inconvenience to the light adjustment. This should be overcome by taking corresponding measures according to the field situation.

Barns with a small number should be placed in the shade of trees or under the eaves of houses, or in places where you can see the sun in the morning and evening, but you can't see the sun after 9 am, or where there is sunlight but no sun. Those upstairs are raised, and those with things on the balcony will put orchids on Dongyang Terrace; If there are north and south balconies, put orchids on the north balcony or windowsill; if there is no north balcony, put them on the outdoor or indoor windowsill. If there are many people, the courtyard should be shaded, and the balcony should be provided with a sunshade net. Generally, the shading degree should not be less than 70%, and the Chinese orchid and the Chinese orchid should reach 80%-90%. According to the data, the suitable temperature for orchid rooting and normal growth is 20℃-28℃. Growth is slow below 20℃ and rapid above 25℃. When it reaches 30℃, it is forced to go to sleep. The daytime temperature is 10℃- 16℃ and the nighttime temperature is 5℃- 10℃, which is the winter dormancy period. The low temperature tolerance limit of Cymbidium cymbidium is -3℃, that of Orchid is -4℃, that of Cymbidium cymbidium is -2℃ and that of Cymbidium cymbidium is -2℃. Most family orchids spend the winter indoors, and they can survive the cold period safely without taking heating measures in winter and spring. If you spend the winter in the lee of the courtyard or balcony, you can build a temporary greenhouse with plastic film.

I hope my answer can help you!