kimono
In the past, the two concepts of Wu fu and kimono were different (because most of the kimono styles worn by nobles originated from the Tang Dynasty rather than Soochow, and this kind of clothing was also called "Tang fu" in the past), but today these two concepts have almost overlapped. Many shops selling kimonos will write "Gofukuya" on their signboards, which shows that these two words are basically synonymous.
There are many kinds of kimonos, regardless of color, texture and style, which have undergone thousands of years of changes. Not only are there obvious differences between men and women (men's kimonos are monotonous in color, black, with few styles, thin belts, simple accessories and convenient to wear; Women's kimonos have rich colors, wide belts, various types and styles, and many accessories), and according to different occasions and times, people will wear different kimonos to show caution (women's kimonos include wedding kimonos, adult kimonos, evening ceremony kimonos, banquet ceremony kimonos and general dresses). The weaving, dyeing and embroidery of kimono itself, as well as the complicated rules when wearing it (pay attention to wearing clogs and cloth socks when wearing kimono, and comb different hairstyles according to the types of kimono) make it look like a work of art. Designers constantly innovate in color and texture, and apply various bold designs to colors, so that modern impressions can be skillfully integrated into classical forms.
Kimono (4 pieces)
Breathability is a great advantage and feature of kimono, so the cuffs, skirts and hem of kimono can be opened and closed freely. But this kind of opening and closing, especially the opening and closing of the skirt, has a lot to pay attention to. Different opening and closing have different meanings, showing different identities of the wearer. For example, when an artist wears a kimono, the skirt is always open, and only the V-shaped intersection of the skirt is tied with a belt. This way of dressing not only gives people a sense of kimono, but also shows an implicit beauty, which can better show the identity of women engaged in this profession. On the other hand, if women who are not engaged in this profession wear kimonos, they must accept skirts. However, even if the skirt is closed, the degree is exquisite, which shows the marital status of the wearer: if the woman is married, the skirt need not be completely closed, and it can be opened near the neck. But if you are an unmarried girl, you must fold all your skirts. In fact, kimono has so many exquisiteness that there are "classrooms" in Japan that teach people how to wear kimono.
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Kimono design
1. Hangtiao, * * * (Friendship)
2. Ji, Di Ji (Festival)
3. Right cover
4. Left front (left front)
5. Outside
6.yuben
7. Akumi
8. Right hand
9. Kenzaki
10. Height (Mitak)
1 1. Xuewu
12. Shoulder width (Katahaba)
13. sleeve width (sodehaba)
14. sodtak
15. cuffs (sodekuqi)
16. payment by sleeve (sodecke)
Edit this paragraph history
According to legend, in the Shinto era in Japan, there was a fairy who ordered food according to evil. He often takes off his coat, shirt and belt and exposes his body when holding exorcism ceremonies (seeking happiness in the early days of disasters by fasting and bathing). According to later research, the legendary Shinto era is equivalent to Japan's primitive social period. At that time, there were thousands of Japanese living sites discovered, and their distribution areas ranged from Hokkaido in the north to Kyushu in the south, almost all over Japan. In primitive society, the Japanese lived an uncertain group migration life, and their main production activities were hunting and gathering (don't always think about the imperial era). Perhaps it was at that time that the Japanese began to use animal fur or leaves to keep out the cold and walked out of the nude age. In the late rope culture era (Neolithic Age in Japan, equivalent to 800- 500 years ago) and Yayoi culture era (the era when Yayoi pottery was used in Japan, equivalent to 300-300 years ago), two basic clothing styles appeared in Japan. One is a pullover T-shirt, which is similar in shape to today's T-shirts; The other is double-breasted type, with left-breasted placket, collar tip reaching waist, and tied with string at equal intervals. Sleeves are cylindrical sleeves, and the length is above the knee. There is also a coat, a scarf and a beard. Autumn originally refers to a kind of crotch cloth worn under the body and hidden under the coat. Autumn here refers to the joint of trouser legs similar to shorts. Men have something around their waists called petticoats, which are tied around their coats. Some changes have taken place in the clothes because of the pleats in the knot. Most women wear skirts. Different from men, women's skirts reach the ground, which is quite similar to today's Korean women's skirts "Ma Qi".
Scarves are usually hung on the shoulders as decoration, and the form of hanging is not limited, which is generally determined by personal hobbies. Scarves are often used as long-sleeved belts or as a substitute for wrapping cloth in production and labor. When leaving, people waved scarves to show their reluctance, which is the same as waving handkerchiefs to show goodbye in Meiji era. Yushubi is a kind of belt fabric that is bigger and longer than a scarf. It is put on the head and hung on the waist. Ancient Japanese women were taboo to be seen by men, so they were used to cover their faces.
According to Historical Records, Records of Japan, Atlas of Planting Wheels, Addendum to Ancient Characters and other documents, the clothing in the late rope culture era and the Yayoi culture era in Japan has been made of plant fiber materials such as bamboo cloth, linen cloth, cotton coarse cloth, rattan cloth and cob cloth. The belt is made of Japanese cloth. The appearance of cloth hangs over the aura of myth, such as carving gods to cut cloth and white gods to make people happy.
Dyeing was quite common at that time. According to Shen Yingji, at the time of Emperor Jingxing, the common people already knew that madder was used to dye red, indigo was used to dye blue, green bristlegrass was used to dye yellow, acorns were used to dye black, and purple roots were used to dye purple. Most dyed fabrics have no lines, and occasionally there are some printed lines, which are usually printed directly with leaves and flowers. The plants used are evening primrose, swallow grass, hazelnut, indigo, honeysuckle and so on.
The origin of kimono
Kimono is the national costume of Japan, which is developed from the Han costumes in China. During the Three Kingdoms period, Japanese women wore almost the same clothes, but they didn't have backpacks behind their waists, so they were called "five clothes" and "Tang clothes" in Wu Dong. Kimono is the name of Wufu in the west, and now the Japanese have accepted this name, but many shops selling kimonos still write "Wufu". Before the edo period, the word "bath" of kimono meant "hot water", and people called kimono "bathrobe" at that time. Curtains refer to single clothes, that is, clothes worn alone. The ancient bathrooms were basically steam-type, which is very similar to the sauna now. In order to avoid being scalded by walls and columns, people wear soup curtains to take a bath. Tang Weizi, known as "kimono", began in the Edo period. Later, people gradually changed the form of bathing. When taking a bath, they no longer wear clothes, but soak in hot water. As a result, kimono became a simple dress to wear after bathing, and it continues to this day as a dress that reflects personal summer leisure interests. In addition, in the backstage of kabuki and other dramas, many actors rest in kimonos, and they don't put on their costumes until the moment before their turn to appear, completing the transformation of their personal roles and performing.
Wedding kimono for men and women (2 pieces)
By the middle of Edo, genre painting was equivalent to Ukiyo-e painting in Taoshan period. Ukiyo-e draws a single beauty from the indoor amusement map to describe it. This form was particularly popular in the liberal arts era, so it was called the liberal arts beauty picture, among which the picture of eight thousand generations of doctors was a particularly excellent work.
/kloc-in the middle of the 0/7th century, printed illustrations appeared in Edo's publications. Most of the artists who draw these illustrations are unknown painters, among which Hishikawa Moronobu (-1694) is the most prominent. Xuanshi used to be an illustrator of Edo edition of the former Xihe's "lascivious generation", and each illustration can be appreciated independently. Xuan Shi is the founder of a painting. The beauty in his Meet the Beauty is wearing a kimono embroidered with large red flowers. When the beauty looks back, she smiles and is very touching.
In the next two years (1765), folk paintings became popular. It is made of luxurious multi-color folding prints, among which the outstanding author is Suzuki Harunobu (1725- 1770). Its prints are like the beauty of brocade, so it is called brocade painting. The beauty of its paintings, especially the waist, is all the rage. The representative figure of beauty paintings after the Spring Heart is Shengchuan, Zhang Chunhe and torii, Changqing, but the most famous ukiyo-e painting is Beichuan Gewu (1753- 1806), and his paintings are mostly half-length paintings or big paintings, such as "Ten-body Women Learn from Each other". Since then, many genre paintings reflecting sericulture or textile production have also adopted this ukiyo-e style, in which women wear kimonos of lower-class working women.
From Japan to modern times, there is a special beauty painting school, which draws mostly Japanese women wearing kimonos.
Starting from Meiji 30 years ago, Japanese painters began to create new beauty paintings, which can be roughly divided into three schools. One is the modern beauty painting school, born out of ukiyo-e painting, represented by Ito Kanto; Second, the beauty paintings are mainly ladies and upper-class ladies, represented by the four mountains. Among them, there are groups of Japanese ladies wearing kimonos in the works lined with Songyuan, with graceful and plump faces. The method of making kimono depicted is also very clear, and it is very clear whether it is a twisted or a friend. Third, the beauty painting combining East and West depicts Japanese women wearing kimonos in the style of western painting.
The above works of art are related to kimono. It not only preserves the colors, fabrics, patterns, styles and accessories of kimonos in different periods in history, but also reflects the way of wearing kimonos and the various postures of Japanese people wearing kimonos. In addition, these works are actually kimonos in the eyes of artists, revealing the attitudes and feelings of artists and their contemporaries towards kimonos.
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Kimono clothing
There are many kinds of kimonos, not only men and women, unmarried and married, but also casual clothes and formal clothes. Men's kimonos are few in style, monotonous in color, dark in color, thin in belt and convenient to wear. Women's kimonos have various styles, bright colors and wide waist. Different kimono belts have different knots and different hairstyles. Married women wear "cuff" kimono, while unmarried women wear "cuff vibration" kimono. In addition, according to the different purposes of going out, such as visiting, playing and shopping, the patterns, colors and styles of wearing kimonos are also different.
1. Sleeve kimono
kimono
The dresses worn by women attending relatives' weddings and formal ceremonies are mainly divided into black sleeves and colorful sleeves. With black as the background, dyed with five patterns, patterns are printed on both ends of the hem of the kimono predecessor, which is called "black sleeves" and used by married women; There are three or one patterns printed on fabrics of other colors, and there are patterns on the hem, which is called "color sleeves". The first picture is black sleeves.
2. Vibrating sleeve kimono
Kimono pattern
Also known as long-sleeved dress, it is the first dress for ladies. According to the sleeve length, it can be divided into "large vibrating sleeve", "medium vibrating sleeve" and "small vibrating sleeve", among which "medium vibrating sleeve" is the most worn. Mainly used for bar mitzvah, graduation ceremony, banquets, parties, visiting friends and other occasions. Because this kimono gives people a sense of fashion, more and more married women wear "vibrating sleeves".
Visit kimono
It is a kimono with an overall pattern. It is a picture from hem, left front sleeve, left shoulder to collar. In recent years, as the most popular simple gift, visiting kimono is very popular. It can be worn at opening ceremony, friends' banquets, parties, tea parties and other occasions, and there is no age or marriage restriction.
4. Small pattern kimono
There are small flowers on the clothes. Because it is very suitable for practicing wearing, it is generally used as daily fashion and can often be seen on dating and shopping occasions. Small pattern kimono is also used by young women for semi-formal parties.
Step 5 grieve
Cartoon kimono
Wear black at the funeral, including the belt.
6. Wedding dress
A wedding dress.
7. Bathrobe
Put it on before taking a shower. Summer kimono.
8. Men's kimono
Feather tattoo woven quilt
Men's kimonos formally wear patterned tops and darts, that is, tattooed feather-woven darts. Except for black, dresses and gowns with other patterns are just simple gifts, which can be matched with clothes at will.
9. Plain kimono
This is a monochrome kimono (except black). If it is dyed with patterns, it can be worn as clothes. If there is no pattern, it can be used as a daily fashion dress.
10. "Pay" kimono
The patterns on sleeves, front and back, and collar are all kimono prints, printed from bottom to top. Lighter and more comfortable than visiting kimonos.
1 1 .12 orders
It is a full set of dresses worn by ancient women when they entered the palace or celebrated festivals. Divided into Tang suit, single suit, table suit, etc. * * * 12th floor.
The following are the sub-categories of kimonos
Incidental product
1. Maruko kimono was originally patterned on the front, gorgeous but elegant.
2. The bag is eight inches wide (Japan 1 inch =3.03cm), with patterns on the front and plain color on the bottom, making it the most popular belt in Japan. One of the ribbons woven with brocade or gold thread can match the wedding dress, and the other ribbon dyed with light color pattern is used for fashion.
3. The two ends of Nagoya Taigu Belt are respectively connected with two thin belts, which are comfortable and convenient to tie up.
Bagged Nagoya Belt: The bandwidth is eight inches (1 inch =3.03cm), which is lighter and more comfortable than the bag belt.
Semi-middle band: its bandwidth is only about half of that of ordinary band, with no lining and no thin frame. You can tie it according to your own preferences.
4. Accessories of kimono
Besides the combination of clips, straps and knots, the accessories of kimono also play a great role in the aesthetic feeling of kimono. The accessories of kimono mainly include strap, strap, strap, pillow, IDA, waist buckle, chest buckle, wing comparison and so on. In addition, there are underwear matching with kimono, some auxiliary appliances for wearing kimono and beauty, shoes and other accessories.
Belts and belts are very important accessories in kimono assembly. The function of the strap is not only to fix and cover the strap pillow when making a knot, but also to strictly match kimono and kimono strap in decoration. Textiles, twill fabrics, crepe fabrics, etc. Generally used as the material of ribbon, the top is decorated with tie-dye patterns, friendly Zen dyes, small patterns, embroidery patterns or colors. Ties play the role of tying and knotting, and can be divided into rope belts, woven belts and quilted belts. There is a cylindrical belt called pill belt, which is a special belt for dresses. There is also a kind of rope mixed with gold and silver thread, which is also often used for formal clothes and casual clothes. Generally speaking, the price of thick broadband is higher than that of narrow band, so narrow band is generally only used in bathrobes.
Belt plate: it is a plastic fitting placed in front of the belt to prevent the belt from wrinkling, and its width is narrower than that of the belt.
Pillow: used to make Taigu belt and shape changing knots. It's big, but it's usually a standard shape.
Yidudi: it is an accessory of kimono, which is tied on the chest below the kimono collar to prevent it from going out of shape. Generally, Bodo fabrics with thin texture are selected for clothing.
Waist button and chest button: used to compare the length of kimono when dressing, or as a fake button on the chest.
Biwing: it's a special decoration on the sleeve, in order to make the two-layer sewing of kimono visible. Wings are designated for decoration at cuffs, collars, slits and openings from underarms to under sleeves. You can't use your wings in mourning.
Underwear: the underwear of kimono mainly refers to the foot bag, muscle loop, petticoat, long loop and half collar.
Foot bag: socks. Kimono socks are all white, with four toes set together and separated from the big toe.
The material is selected from fine wide poplin.
Muscle ring: a close-fitting undershirt, which absorbs sweat in summer and keeps warm in winter. The fabric is made of spun yarn and nylon made of natural fibers, and the collar is made of similar cloth into a narrow V-neck.
Petticoat: The main function of petticoat is to prevent skirt pollution and keep warm. The fabric is made of spun silk, crepe and nylon, and its length is about 5 cm shorter than that of long coil.
Long loop: Also called kimono gown, it is a layer of clothes worn under a kimono. Its main function is to keep the kimono flat and beautiful, and also to prevent pollution.
Half collar: also called lining collar. The semi-collar seam is sewn on the long circle, and its main function is to prevent pollution. The fabrics are crepe, salt spun silk and so on.
Footwear: Paired with other clothes, including sandals, underwear, handbags, belt buckles, hair accessories, etc.
Straw shoes: shoes that are not made of grass are the general name of shoes with heels of about 2-8 cm, including cloth shoes, leather shoes and patent leather shoes.
When choosing sandals, we should pay attention to the purpose of kimono. The sandals of the dress are made of cloth, and the heels should be higher. In recent years, more and more people choose patent leather shoes, which also reflects the fashion of straw sandals.
Landing gear: namely clogs, including painted landing gear and white landing gear. When wearing a bathrobe, put on a bag barefoot. When it rains, you should cover the clogs with rain-proof and mud-proof clogs, which is called carrying in the rain.
kimono
Handbag: it is also one of the important accessories of kimono, and it is also required to be matched with kimono in the choice of fabric and color. Handbags for dresses are usually made of Saga brocade, Hakata brocade and brocade. As a handbag to carry when going out, patent leather and leather are generally used as the surface layer.
Belt buckle: It plays the same role as a tie, but the belt buckle is generally decorated with pearls and seven treasures. In order to leave a good impression.
Hair accessories: such as combs, hairpins, ribbons, etc. When choosing hair accessories, you should pay attention to the occasion, such as wearing a gorgeous kimono similar to vibrating sleeves, and choosing hair accessories to be fancy; If you wear mourning clothes, you should avoid wearing hair accessories such as coral and jade.
In addition: hand strap, clogs.
Edit this paragraph and the basic method of wearing kimono and bathrobe.
First of all, the first step is to put on the foot bag (socks), and then put it on neatly in order, and don't tie the belt too tightly.
Western array kimono performance (16 photo)
1. Put on the kimono and put the sleeve of the undershirt into the kimono sleeve. Adjust the back seam of the kimono to the center of the back, and then fix the shirt and the collar of the kimono together with clips.
2. Lift the collar by hand and adjust the length of the hem, so as not to touch the ground.
3. Open the kimono, put the front collar at the position of the waist bone and determine the width of the front. The edge of kimono should be aligned with the side of the body.
4. After determining the width, slowly open the front, then fit the bottom to a certain width, and then raise the lower part of the collar held by the right hand by 10 cm to make the lower cycloid tilt.
5. Repeat the previous action, and raise the lower half of the collar held by the left hand by 5cm, being careful not to misplace it. After the waist appears, the wrinkles are adjusted upwards.
6. Tie the first rope around your waist. The belt is tied from the front of the body to the front, crossed at the back, and tied back to the front.
7. Smooth out the wrinkles at the waist. Put your hand into the gap under the kimono sleeve, check whether the kimono is stuck by the belt, and flatten the redundant part behind it.
8. Similarly, flatten the extra part of the chest, pull the crease to the armpit, grab the sleeve with both hands and gently pull the cuff.
9. Check whether the two collars are in good condition. If there is any dislocation, put your hand into the slit under the armbar to adjust it. The neckline slit should not be too big or too small.
10. Tie a second rope under your chest. The extra part must be pulled neatly, and the repeated part in front is horizontal.
1 1. Straighten your waist and tie a small belt named "IDA" on your chest. Because the small belt is elastic, be careful not to tie it too tightly.
12. Check whether the chest and back are folded loosely, and if so, flatten them to the armpit. After the whole work is finished, check whether there are any mistakes with a big mirror, and then take off the clip on the collar.
Fastening method of bathrobe belt
How to fasten the belt of bathrobe (library knot)
If you tie it alone, you can tie a knot on your chest, then hold the knot in your right hand, the lower back in your left hand and the kimono from the right.
kimono
Take it to the back.
1. Fold the waist width up and down and stick it on the waist, and take the knot length, which should be 20 cm.
2. Hang the knotted part on your shoulder and wrap the rest around your waist twice.
3. After two turns around the waist, the remaining belt is folded in half, and one end is hung on the shoulder and tied.
4. Keep your feet slightly apart to stabilize your body, and then tighten your belt.
5. Pick up the knotted part and fold it in half.
6. Tie a rope on your shoulder and fix the knotted part of the rope with a clip.
7. Flatten the folds of the winged part.
8. The length of the knot wing is shoulder width, and the front side is rolled up.
9. Pick up the knotted wings, put a pillow on the belt pad and roll it up.
10. Fold the knotted wings into beautiful folds and stick them on your back.
1 1. Open the knots and arrange them beautifully. When finished, do another inspection and adjust the angle of the wing.
Matters needing attention in wearing kimono
When wearing kimono, it should be noted that the method of covering the left and right lapels of kimono is exquisite. Generally speaking, when wearing kimono, the right lapel is attached to the chest, and the left lapel is covered on the right lapel, which is called "right lapel"; Otherwise, it is "left front". The way kimono is worn is "right front", that is, left and right (lapel). Because the Japanese believe that the world after death is completely opposite to that before death, the way the deceased wears kimono is "left front", that is, left and right. The "right front" wearing method is said to be influenced by ancient Chinese costumes, and the Japanese are right-handed. So they used to put the knife on their left waist. If the "left front" puncture method is adopted, the action will not be smooth when drawing the knife.
Many people don't know this statement. When wearing kimono, the right lapel fits the left lapel, and even many stars wear it with the right lapel and the left lapel. For example, Yi Nengjing and Rainie Yang made this mistake when they participated in a certain program, which is incorrect.
Edit this taboo dress taboo.
Japan has the custom of "evoking the soul" with clothes: people either sit by the pillow of the deceased, climb on the roof to face the mountains and seas, or wave the clothes of the deceased to call back the deceased loudly. When washing old clothes for the dead, wash them north and dry them at midnight. After washing, it must be neatly folded. After a period of collection, hit it with a stick a few times before the living can wear it. Therefore, northerners never dry their daily laundry, nor do they dry it outside at night.
kimono
In cities, on the first day of the first month, most families don't wash clothes. In ancient customs, washing clothes is not allowed on 1, 15, 28, or even on the other side of Memorial Day every month. Of course, this is a festival that needs a good rest, and it is also afraid that the soul of the sacrificial object will float past and attach to the clothes to be dried. When wearing new clothes, some areas (such as Jizhou) put the clothes on the pillars first; Some places (Okinawa) want to sing "I am also a thousand years old, and the column is also a thousand years old" and "I am thin and strong." Even if you don't put the wooden column in first, you should fold it up and knock it twice before using it. It's all because I'm worried that there is some kind of soul hidden in my clothes. Collect it for a while and hit it with a stick, or put it through a wooden post first. From the subjective desire, I hope it can play a role in eliminating disasters and avoiding evil spirits.
"Bu Ji" contains: "Without a crown, it looks like a dead man's clothes", and there is a legend in Qinyang, Henan Province that "I changed my skirt and remarried others". Because when the deceased goes to the underworld, it is completely opposite to the Yang world. After death, he has to wear clothes and hats. Japanese custom, when people are buried after death, they should cover their skirts to the left, which means that the clothes of the deceased are the opposite of those of the living. Therefore, people usually wear clothes, the most taboo is to nest the collar inside, or take the future as the front and the inside as the surface.
Similarly, because of animism, people think that the clothes they wear must contain their own souls. Giving your clothes to your closest friends is tantamount to giving your soul to each other, which is sincere. When some people give clothes, they will put a five-dollar yen in their pockets, which means "destiny" (destiny with you). There are also "clothes money" and "gifts with money", which are the embodiment of this custom.
Color taboo
China folk taboos once divided the colors of clothing into four categories: expensive color taboo, cheap color taboo, fierce color taboo and bright color taboo.
According to the Book of Rites, the clothes of Tianqi vary in color due to different seasons, and are divided into five colors: blue, red, yellow, white and black according to the yin and yang elements of the season.
Emperor Taizong Zhenguan set the color of official robes for four years, and purple was listed in front of Zhu: purple clothes were more than three products; Four products and five products; Six products are dark green; Seven products are light green; Eight products are dark blue; Nine products are light green.
It can be said that color taboos in Japanese history are similar to these in different degrees.
In 605 AD, that is, in the 11th year of Tuguhun, Shoto Kutaishi promulgated the "Twelve Pin Guan" and used the crown accordingly.
From top to bottom, it is morality (purple), benevolence (green), courtesy (red), faith (yellow), righteousness (white) and wisdom (black). These six colors and crowns are subdivided into two types: size and size, with * * * twelve orders.
In Japanese history, orange, crimson, cyan and purple were designated as the dress colors of crown prince, emperor, emperor and prince respectively, which restricted others' use. Especially crimson and purple, are not allowed to be used by people outside the royal family. This rule continued until 1945.
On the murals of Takamatsu's ancient tomb in Japan, there are not only portraits of men and women in Tang costumes, but also pictures of Qinglong, Suzaku, White Tiger and Xuanwu (black turtle) as the patrons of the four directions. Until today, in some parts of Japan, white and red are generally not used for grand ceremonies when wearing kimonos. Because: white represents holiness and purity; Red symbolizes magic.