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Grafting is generally used to improve the inferior species of Zanthoxylum bungeanum. When is the pepper

When is the grafting time of pepper? Methods and steps of grafting Zanthoxylum bungeanum.

Grafting is generally used to improve the inferior species of Zanthoxylum bungeanum. When is the pepper

When is the grafting time of pepper? Methods and steps of grafting Zanthoxylum bungeanum.

Grafting is generally used to improve the inferior species of Zanthoxylum bungeanum. When is the pepper tree grafted? What should we pay attention to in the specific operation of grafting? Today, we will talk about the best time and the methods and steps of pepper grafting.

1. When is the grafting time of pepper?

Generally, it can be done after the rootstock is peeled in spring, but the best period is between Grain Rain and long summer. Because the grafting is too early and the temperature is unstable, it is prone to late frost; It is too late, and the temperature rises, which is not conducive to the preservation of scions and affects the survival rate.

Theoretically speaking, the grafting of Zanthoxylum bungeanum should be in the peak season, because the branches grow faster at this time, which is conducive to wound healing. In production practice, the north branch is grafted in March-April, and the bud is grafted in August-September. In southwest China, branches are grafted in March and buds are grafted in June.

Second, the grafting method and steps of pepper

1. Collection and preservation of scions Select annual branches with full growth and full buds as scions from the middle and upper part of the periphery of the improved mother tree crown. Zanthoxylum cuttings are not easy to preserve. If the temperature and humidity are not properly controlled, it will germinate in advance or lose water to reduce vitality.

Therefore, the collected scions should be bundled into small bundles in time and put into the cellar or buried in cool soil. If possible, it is especially good to store it in full wax seal.

2. Grafting method ① Cutting rootstock

Young trees can choose a flat section from 5 ~ 10 cm above the ground, and adult trees can choose a flat section from the lower part of each main branch or vegetative branch, and all buds and thorns can be removed at the same time, which is convenient for binding and healing.

② Cutting the scion.

Selecting scion segments with 2 ~ 3 strong buds, peeling and pricking, cutting the lower end of the scion into a horse-ear-shaped slope of 3 ~ 5cm, slightly cutting the xylem, then directly cutting to make it slender and flat, and then cutting the lower end of the back into a small slope of 0.5 ~ 1cm, sharpening the lower end of the scion into an arrow shape, and gently cutting off the epidermis on both sides to expose.

③ Cutting rootstocks and scions.

Cut a knife vertically on the straight part of the upper end of the rootstock, reaching the xylem, and the length is equivalent to that of the scion. Then the long section of the scion is opposite to the xylem and inserted along the incision until it is slightly exposed, so that the cambium on both sides of the scion is closely attached to the rootstock endothelium.

④ Bonding interface

Wrap it tightly with film tape from bottom to top to make it airtight and waterproof. Then, the rootstocks and scions are buried in soil bags with wet soil to keep moisture, prevent freezing, and be beneficial to the germination of new buds.

3. Management of Zanthoxylum bungeanum after grafting ① Wipe off the new buds on the rootstock in time to prevent competition for nutrients with the new grafting.

② Change the dressing in time, generally survive for 20 days, and all the dressing changes will be released in about 30 days.

(3) Tie dry protective branches to prevent wind folding. Generally, when the new buds grow to 20 ~ 30 cm, tie the protective branches in time.

④ Strengthen water and fertilizer management. Topdressing with quick-acting fertilizer and watering to promote growth. However, in the later stage (after August), water and fertilizer should be properly controlled, and potassium dihydrogen phosphate can be sprayed outside the roots to promote the early lignification of new branches and prevent freezing injury in winter.