Sandy loam or light loam with good drainage should be selected for osmanthus tree planting nursery. If the soil is too sticky, properly mix some sand to adjust the soil texture. In order to prevent the occurrence of damping-off and root rot, pesticides should also be sprayed to disinfect the soil when making the bed. Cutting should be planted with high tips, and drainage must be smooth. Practice has proved that water accumulation after rain is the easiest way to rot cuttings, especially before cuttings take root, attention should be paid to timely drainage. Second, the setting of plastic shed and shade shed
Simply speaking, closed seedling raising is shed-covered shed, that is, shade shed-covered plastic shed. The width of slotted bed is 1. 10 m (actual utilization rate is 1.0 m), and the bamboo pieces sharpened at both ends are inserted in an arch shape, 0.5 m from the bed surface to the vault. In order to tighten the arch bamboo pieces, thin bamboo should be tied between the bows, and both sides of the plastic shed should be tamped with soil without leaving gaps, but both ends of the plastic shed need not be sealed and can be free. The plastic film shed should be covered with a double reed curtain, and the height of the shade shed should be 1 m, so that there is a space of 50 cm between the plastic shed and the reed curtain, which is convenient for air circulation and reduces the temperature in the plastic shed. In addition, the plastic shed should be surrounded by a single curtain to prevent side sunlight.
Third, cutting time.
The most suitable period is from mid-May to late June (autumn planting can be from mid-August to late September). Some places think that sweet-scented osmanthus shoots in early spring and can be cut in April in advance. Practice has proved that although the degree of lignification of cuttings was high at that time, the air temperature and ground temperature were low, the cuttings were not easy to take root after cutting, and the cuttings were easy to rot and deteriorate.
4. Selection and treatment of cuttings
Cutting with tender buds that germinated that year. In order to make cuttings robust and full, it is necessary to manage the fertilizer and water of cutting mother trees in winter. Apply quick-acting fertilizer 2-3 times before heading 1-2 months, and pay attention to irrigation in spring drought. Practice shows that plump and neat branches are easy to form root primordium, take root quickly and have high survival rate, while fine branches are the opposite. The length of cuttings is 8 8- 10/0cm. Cutting cuttings should be quickly placed in a ventilated and cool place indoors, and the leaves should be wetted with water in time to keep the cuttings fresh. When pruning cuttings, 5-6 top leaves should be left. In order to avoid overcrowding and prevent the blades from being embedded, the blades can be cut in half.
It is observed that most cuttings of osmanthus fragrans take root at nodes, but less at nodes, so it is better to leave 1-2 nodes in the part inserted into the soil, and it is more beneficial to take root if the cutting ends are just at nodes.
Treating cuttings with NAA is an effective measure to promote the early rapid rooting of osmanthus fragrans. It is necessary to soak cuttings with 500PPM NAA 7-8 days earlier than untreated cuttings.
Verb (short for verb) cutting
The cuttings are inserted into half of the soil, with a row spacing of 6* 10 cm and 200 cuttings per square meter. If you move out immediately after taking root, you can increase the density and make full use of the plastic shed by treating the bed insertion as an intermediate transition.
The regeneration ability of vegetative organs of Osmanthus fragrans is the physiological basis of cutting propagation. Osmanthus fragrans cuttings first form original roots and regenerate roots, and then grow adventitious roots. The rooting of cuttings is not in the healing tissue but concentrated in the internode, and a few are in the internode cortex. It was observed that each plant produced an average of 19 lateral roots, of which 13 roots were produced at nodes and 6 roots were produced at internode cortex. If there are two roots, there are more roots below than above.
From the appearance, osmanthus fragrans also forms healing tissue like other tree species. The healing tissue is located at the cutting end, and a tumor-like process is formed between the cortex and xylem, which is formed on 15-20 days after cutting. If NAA treatment is not used, the formation of healing tissue may be delayed. Before new roots are produced, the formed healing tissue is stable for about 7-65 days.
Cutting and grafting
The propagation methods of osmanthus fragrans include sowing, cutting, grafting and layering. Cutting and grafting propagation are the most common in production.
Cutting propagation technology is simple, with a large number of propagation, high speed, high survival rate and low cost. It is the most widely used propagation method for seedling producers and flower lovers.
Cutting time: 1 annual spring shoots can be cut from early March to mid-April, which is the best cutting time. You can also choose semi-mature branches from late June to late August for heel cutting, but it needs high temperature and humidity control.
Cutting and treatment: select strong, full and pest-free branches in the middle and upper part of the tree as cutting. Cut the branches into 10- 12 cm long, and remove the lower leaves, leaving only the upper 3-4 leaves. If possible, put the cuttings into GGR6 solution with a concentration of 50- 100 per million for 0.5- 1 hour, which is beneficial to the rooting of cuttings.
Preparation of soil insertion: the slightly acidic, loose, ventilated and water-retaining soil is used as the cutting substrate. Before cutting, use carbendazim, pentachloronitrobenzene and other drugs to disinfect the inserted soil.
Post-cutting management: mainly controlling temperature and humidity, which is the key to rooting and survival of cutting. The optimum rooting temperature is 25-28℃, and the optimum relative humidity should be above 85%. It can be controlled by shading, arching plastic shed, sprinkling water and ventilation. Secondly, we should pay attention to mildew prevention, because high temperature and high humidity are easy to produce mold, and carbendazim and thiophanate-methyl can be used alternately every week for spray sterilization.
Grafting propagation has the advantages of rapid seedling formation, vigorous growth, early flowering and small variation, and is also one of the more commonly used methods.
Rootstock cultivation: L-2-year-old seedlings such as Ligustrum lucidum, Ligustrum lucidum and Fraxinus microphylla are used as rootstocks. Among them, Osmanthus fragrans grafted Ligustrum lucidum has a high survival rate and rapid initial growth, but the wound healing is not good, and it is easy to break when it is hit by strong wind or external force.
Grafting was carried out before and after Tomb-Sweeping Day. There are two methods commonly used in production, one is split grafting and the other is abdominal grafting. It is advisable to select fully lignified 1-2-year-old robust and disease-free branches from adult trees, remove leaves and keep petioles. If the split grafting method is adopted, the rootstock should be cut off 4-6 cm above the ground before grafting. The thickness of the scion should match that of the rootstock, and the section of the scion should be smooth. The key to successful splitting is that the cambium of rootstock and scion should be aligned and tied tightly. If abdominal grafting is adopted, the rootstock is not broken, the grafted buds are directly buried in the water of the rootstock, and then the rootstock is broken after successful grafting. No matter which method is used for grafting, it should be grafted with the ear as much as possible. When picking from other places, you must keep the cuttings fresh. It is best to choose sunny and windless weather for grafting. Pay attention to check the survival rate after grafting, and do a good job in patching, wiping buds, cutting rootstocks, removing binding bands, water and fertilizer management, pest control and so on.
Second, layered communication.
Osmanthus fragrans can be planted and propagated in addition to cutting and grafting. However, because some varieties have no or few fruits, and the seedlings cultivated by sowing method have a long flowering time, which takes more than 10 years to blossom, and the variation is great, so seedling producers and family flower lovers rarely use this method. The seeds of osmanthus fragrans ripen in May. Sowing can be divided into two stages after seed collection: first, inserting after harvest can reduce the process of seed storage, and some seeds will germinate and emerge in autumn. Its disadvantage is that it is difficult to manage the seedlings over winter and is vulnerable to freezing injury. Second, the seeds should be stored in the sand after collection, and the seeds should be selected from the sand before sowing in the next spring. Germination and emergence in April. The advantages of this method are: rapid growth of seedlings and low difficulty in seedling management. When seeding seedlings, we should pay attention to prevent seedlings from dying and getting wet, strengthen water and fertilizer management, replant in time, intertillage and weed, and do a good job in shading, cooling, cold prevention and antifreeze.
Propagation of osmanthus fragrans by layering. The layering time should be selected before the germination of spring buds. Because the branches of osmanthus fragrans are not easy to bend, the pressure method is generally not used, but only the high pressure method is used. When using high pressure method, select 2-3-year-old branches with strong growth potential on excellent mother plants, peel off a circle of cortex with a width of 0.3 cm on the branches, then coat GGR6 solution of one million parts per million 100 or NAA with the same dosage on the circle skin, and then fill plastic film with mountain mud, humus soil, moss, etc. And wrap the cut part, pour water on it, and then bind and fix the bag mouth. Always pay attention to observation and replenish water in time to keep the dressing moist. After cultivation in summer and autumn, new roots will grow. The next spring, cut off the branches with roots from the mother branches, untie the bandages, move the soil into the basin, water it, and maintain it in the shade. After a large number of new buds germinate, it will be fully illuminated.
Third, cultivation management.
1 year-old osmanthus seedlings cultivated by planting and cutting. Because of their poor drought resistance, cold resistance and barren resistance, they are not suitable for immediate use as green seedlings. They should be transplanted in the nursery for 2-5 years, and then transplanted. The main points of cultivation management are briefly described as follows:
The slightly acidic sandy loam with sufficient light, deep soil layer, rich humus, strong permeability and convenient irrigation and drainage is selected as the cultivation nursery. In the autumn and winter of the previous year, all the nurseries were reclaimed, and pits were dug according to the specifications of row spacing 1m× 1.5m (two years later, when the plants are long, thick and tall, every other plant will be planted, so that the row spacing will become 2m× 1.5m), and the planting holes will be 0.4m×0.4m×0.4m .. Each hole will be applied with agricultural fertilizer. Mix the base fertilizer with the surface loam and fill it in the pit. Fertilizer is easily absorbed by saplings after being eroded and fermented by winter snow and spring rain.
Transplanting is best when the sap is not flowing or just flowing, usually from early February to early March. When picking seedlings, leave as many roots as possible and do less harm to the roots. Sow as soon as possible after taking it. If you need to adjust seedlings from other places, pay attention to moisturizing to prevent seedlings from dehydration. After planting, the soil should be compacted and watered once to make the roots of seedlings closely connected with the soil.
Water and fertilizer management. After transplanting, if the nursery is flooded by heavy rain, ditch should be dug for drainage. In case of drought, use water to fight drought. In addition to applying sufficient base fertilizer, apply fertilizer three times a year, that is, in late March, apply 0. 1-0.3 kg of quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer to each plant to promote its growth and bud more; In July, each plant was applied with 0. 1-0.3 kg of effective phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to improve its drought resistance; From June+10 in 5438, 2-3 kilograms of organic fertilizer (such as farmyard manure) was applied to each plant to improve the cold resistance and prepare for overwintering.
Trimming and shaping. Osmanthus fragrans has strong germination ability and has the characteristics of naturally forming shrubs. It is shot twice a year, in spring and autumn respectively. If it is not pruned and germinated in time, it is difficult to cultivate tall plants, and it is easy to form the phenomenon of dense upper branches and sparse lower branches. When pruning, except for those who are not good because of the growth of trees and branches, we should give priority to thinning branches, only properly thinning out the peripheral branches that are too dense, and cutting off the overgrown branches and pests and diseases to improve the ventilation and light transmission conditions of plants. It is necessary to erase the sprouting branches from the base of the trunk in time to avoid consuming nutrients in the tree and disturbing the tree shape.
Loosen the soil and weed. Intertillage in spring and autumn should be done separately, combined with fertilization to improve soil structure. Laying the foundation once before wintering and brushing the trunk white once can enhance the cold resistance. Weed 2-3 times a year to avoid the competition between weeds and seedlings for water, fertilizer and light.
Control pests and diseases. Osmanthus fragrans has less pests and diseases, such as anthracnose, leaf spot, red spider and oyster scale, which can be controlled by Bordeaux mixture, sulfur mixture, thiophanate-methyl, dichlorvos and dicofol.
Four, osmanthus tree transplant points
Transplanting time: 65438+1mid-October to early February is the best. At this time, the trees are dormant, and soon after transplantation, their activity becomes stronger and they are easy to survive. Avoid transplanting in summer.
Truncation: it can reduce nutrient consumption and water transpiration in the tree. The number of cuttings depends on the age and growth potential of the tree. Hundreds of years old trees should leave few or no branches, because their growth is weak. Young trees with strong growth potential can leave more branches appropriately. When pruning, we must first remove pests and diseases, excessive growth and cross branches. Then apply vaseline or Bordeaux solution to the wound to avoid pests and diseases and rain erosion.
Root cutting: In order to improve the survival rate of osmanthus tree transplantation, 1/2 roots are cut off in the spring of 1-2 years before transplantation, and the distance between the cut part and the stump is 2-3 times the diameter of the stump. Then, apply 50- 100 ppm GGR6 solution or 0. 1% indoleacetic acid solution to the cut roots, cover them with soil and water them to make them grow new roots.
Pile taking: Make sure that the size of the excavated soil ball is generally 4-6 times the diameter of the stump. If it is really difficult to start transportation because the diameter is too thick, it should not be less than 3 times. While digging, bind the soil ball with wet straw curtain and straw rope to prevent loosening. The big roots of the tree are sawed off with a saw, and the steel mouth is coated with rooting powder such as GGR6. After digging, wrap it with wet straw curtain and straw rope, and tie it tightly with straw rope until the trunk is 2.5 meters high.
Transportation: When transporting, handle with care. When loading the car, the trees should be fixed and separated by buffers to prevent the trees from colliding, so as not to hurt the skin and touch the loose soil balls. Pay attention to moisturizing on the way.
Planting: In 1 month of planting, first dig a planting hole, the size of the hole is 1.5-2 times of soil balls, then fill the hole with mycorrhizal soil, stop 5- 10 kg of farm manure and 2 kg of quick-acting phosphate fertilizer for later use. When planting, hoist the tree with a crane and gently put it into the planting hole, cut the packing straw curtain and straw rope with scissors, then backfill the stabilized soil, step on it and water it.
Management and protection: 1. Support fixed frame: erect a tripod around the trunk of the tree to prevent the tree from shaking due to human-animal collision and strong wind. 2. Build a shade shed: After April, build a shade shed on three sides of the tree (except the northwest) to prevent direct sunlight from burning the bark-proof part and reduce water transpiration. It can be removed when the weather turns cold in June+10/October, 5438. 3. Watering: The newly planted tree roots are damaged and have weak water absorption. Therefore, it is not advisable to water too much to avoid root rot. But not too little, otherwise it will cause the tree to die of water loss. 4. Infusion: Infusion can meet the needs of appendages for water and nutrition, and can greatly improve the survival rate of transplantation. Blood transfusion is usually carried out from April to September. Before perfusion, drill 3-5 perfusion holes at the base of the tree with a carpenter's drill at a 45-degree angle from top to bottom, reaching the pith. Then it is prepared into liquid medicine, and each liter consists of 0. 1 g water-soluble human ABT6 rooting powder and 0.5g potassium dihydrogen phosphate. Hang the bottle full of liquid medicine high, insert the trunk syringe into the infusion hole, turn on the infusion switch, and the liquid can be input into the tree. When the liquid medicine is used up, pull out the needle and plug the infusion hole with a cotton ball. You can squeeze the cotton ball out the next time you need an infusion. The frequency and interval of infusion depend on the degree of drought, temperature and water demand of plants. After the plants are completely out of danger, seal the infusion hole with Bordeaux solution.